Trainman

Just wondering what grease you are using with your axles, I ask this question because we have not picked up our new Oliver until July 8th. I would like to have grease on hand for checking the axles to see that they are properly lubed from time to time. Do you add grease from time to time, or do you just do a repack, or replace bearing on a time/mileage schedule. Do you use a particular brand of grease and what is compatible with what comes from the factory. I guess what I'm asking is what would be the proper schedule for greasing and them repacking/replacing bearing. What works for most, I would like to hear from those who do there own repacking and replacing, thanks. trainman

I never heard of Northwood trailers until now, I think I will look them up and see why you are comparing them to the Oliver which really doesn't compare to any other trailer out there. trainman

Now you know why we are purchasing an Oliver and it's not just because it's the classiest trailer in camp, it's because of service. I wouldn't want to have to bring my trailer back to Hohenwald just for service, but I would if need be for something like that. They know what to do and have everything there to correct the problem, I personally wouldn't want Joe Blow RV Repair taking my Oliver apart and trying to make repairs. trainman

WOW, I would have never guessed there were that many more links that needed to be added. Thanks, now when we go the Hohenwald to get the trailer I will have what is needed for correct hookup. trainman

I will be purchasing my own hitch, I just need the number of links in your chain. All Oliver's are the same and it would make no difference as to what vehicle you have, as the Anderson hitch is measured from the ball and all Elite II trailer tongues are the same as far as I know. I was just at a fiberglass rally this last week and there were four Oliver's there, but not thinking about the hitch I didn't measure any of them. trainman

When purchasing the Anderson WDH for the Elite II, Anderson #3324, will the chain that comes with the hitch be long enough to fit, or will I need to purchase the extension links so it will fit the Oliver correctly. I want to order the hitch and get the extra chains if needed. trainman

I have been looking at the Sumo Springs, pretty much the same thing as the Timbren, I did post a question on this forum about them and received several responses. I wanted something so I didn't need to use the Anderson WDH on my 2019 Ram 1500. My problem still is the Ram is rated at 500 lbs. tongue weight and the Elite II is probably going to push around 550-575 loaded. I do have a 2" sage with that weight on the Ram at the rear, so even being 50-75 lbs. over limit and the Sumo's would correct the sage is it the correct way to go or not. We don't pickup our new Oliver till July 8th, so the debate goes on, Anderson or Sumo Springs. trainman

Welcome aboard, you made a good choice. As far as a tow vehicle there are many 1/2 ton pickups that can do the job, just get one with the right tow options and you should be ready to go. As you will see many put there tow vehicle down at the bottom of there post and you can see what many are using. trainman

I understand the want for other floor plans, we have a Casita and an Elite II on order at this time with a July 8th delivery date for the Oliver. On the Casita forum Casita owners are constantly asking for a 21 foot Casita, but like most fiberglass trailers these plants are at a 3-6 month wait time just for you to get a trailer. As a manufacture of these trailers would you want to add another trailer line that would just in dollars be very costly to the manufacture, I would think not. I've never thought the Oliver as being an family trailer, that is sleeping 4 people, as well as the Casita. I guess the Oliver could put bunk beds in over the twin bed models, at what cost for the new molds I have no idea, but just to add new options like that probably won't add many more sales to the bottom line and I would think not cost effective. Personally it I owned a fiberglass trailer manufacturing company that is one of the big five I would be smiling all the way to the bank everyday and probably not want to change what I have a the present time. Remember RV sales are good today, but like anything else sales go up and down depending on what the economy is doing, tomorrow it may change. Remember also that Oliver went through a time period like this and they were in a position to recover, most would have been gone for good, thank goodness for good planing by the Oliver family. trainman

Owing a 2017 Jeep Willys for a toy, I would never consider a Jeep Wrangler, or Gladiator as a tow vehicle. It would be nice to have a Jeep to run around to and from the campsite, but that's about it. Hooked behind a diesel pusher Jeeps look great. trainman

I did not order our Casita with the TV option mainly because the antenna in the Casita is useless and the TV is in the corner. I install this mount from Amazon, I believe it's the same mount Oliver is now using by looking there videos. https://www.amazon.com/Impact-Mounts-Folding-Ceiling-Bracket/dp/B00P5DQS0I/ref=sr_1_13?keywords=rv+tv+swing+down+mount&qid=1555815917&s=gateway&sr=8-13 I did use different hardware as the hardware supplied did meet my standards and I used large fender washers on the inside to help improve the mounting to the fiberglass, the Casita overhead panel is probably not as strong as the Oliver is. This is a nice quality TV mount, very pleased with it. trainman

We didn't order the Omni antenna mainly because we had just purchased the King Omni antenna for our Casita, it will plug into the Cable/TV plug on the outside of the trailer and sets on a tripod so it can be moved anywhere, we like many don't watch TV that much when camping, but like everything else it's there if we want it. We said no to the awing, just thought it was overkill and an expense that we could not justify and it just wouldn't be used. So far a Cell phone booster has not been needed, but then again we don't Boondock and in most cases it wouldn't work there either. Our camping thought is to get away from home and all the conveniences there, it's a change of lifestyle for the best. trainman

Welcome Randy, we are probably one that ordered our new Elite II with very few options, we are I guess what one person called us as travelers, that is we do want hookup and really don't look to Boondock, or at least not by choice, one night at Walmart is ok. We even opted for the White counter tops (standard), Heather Oliver said they look great, just a lot of white in the trailer, but were into white and with our accent trim we will add, it should look great. No upgrades like, Solar, Batteries, and all the boosters that are offered, we did opt out on those to. Oliver builds such a nice trailer that which ever way you go I don't think you can go wrong, plus if later you want to add some of the extras just setup a time with Oliver Service and get it done. Plus we can always take along a Honda generator for those need be situations that can arise and it will run the A/C. Order your trailer to custom fit your needs and make it yours. trainman

I'm sure there are exceptions , but for the small grill and Little Red Campfire that I use it has not been a problem. I have this setup on our Casita at the present time with no problems. For appliances that require a larger volume of LP gas to power them correctly you would be right on the regulator setup. trainman

I ordered our new Elite II with the quick disconnect LP couplers, I have also purchased a 1/4" 25' LP extension hose and this connector, https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07KXPVCXQ/ref=sspa_dk_detail_17?psc=1&pd_rd_i=B07KXPVCXQ I attached it to the end of the new 25' extension hose and the quick coupler fitting to the other to plug it into the trailer. I can just connect any LP appliance to it, be it a LP grill, campfire, or any LP product that need LP fuel. Yes you will be using two regulators which does nothing to LP gas performance to the accessories and anyone can bring there grill, etc. over and just plug it in if need be. trainman

Talked with Phil at Oliver and he says it will work, one of the outside cable connectors is for the Satellite TV and the other is for Cable/TV inputs. If you use the Cable/TV input port you will need to go to your TV's Inputs (that's with the outside antenna plugged into the coax plug outside) and set it to which input source you are using. The TV will scan the channels and put them in the TV for you and if you are in a camping ground that has Cable it will do that to. No difference if you use the factory Omni TV antenna, or plug one into the Cable TV outside port, you still have to adjust the TV's Inputs. trainman

I have an Omni portable antenna that sets on a tripod with coax cable for hookup. My question is will the outside cable/TV plug work with this antenna as I did not order the factory Omni antenna from Oliver, I also assume that if they have cable at the camping ground it will also plug in here, like most, antenna inputs are done at the TV. trainman

We have our Oliver on order and will pick it up in July, but for the time we have a Casita and our camping habits will most likely stay the same. I prefer a camping spot with hookups over one without, but we have had to stay without then every once in a wile, no big deal. Like many have said, after the dump I fill the black tank with a 5 gallon bucket of water, add the chemicals, and were off. When I get home I have a sewer dump there and then I do a complete tank wash and then store the black tank with another 5 gal bucket of water and chemicals till the next camping trip. I never had any smells from the toilet and so far so good doing it this way. Also it does one good to check out the dump stations, look for the correct angle to stop the trailer so it will drain properly, make sure there is a wash hose and it works, check for spillage from other inconsiderate dumpers, and don't get in a big hurry just because there may be others in line, but do it in a reasonable time. It will become a natural thing, just like hooking up the electric, water, etc., it's just learning the process and will become natural in time and you will look like a seasoned camper in no time. Sometimes when the dump station does not appear to be working properly, or a line I may use a camping site that is vacant and not in use, try to find the drive through type. trainman

Heat is the main ingredient to remove decals, this is for decals that are somewhat new, but even good quality decals can be removed 10 plus years old. Sun light works great and if the outside temperatures are in the 80's plus a heat gun or hair dryer will probably not be needed, but they will speed up removal. Just work the edge of the decal with your fingernail to start the removal process, I would stay away from sharp metal objects as they can scratch the fiberglass, or in the case of painted vehicles the paint. Pull slowly when removing, it's going to take sometime, but that's how they will turn loose, a good slow pull of the decal at a 45 degree back against it is how it will come off the best. Remember the older the decal the longer it's going to take to remove it. Sometimes the decal glue will stay on the surface, you will need something like GooGone to remove it, there are professional cleaners that automotive paint supplies sell, but I would go into that. trainman

Interesting comments on these springs. My new Ram is rated at 500 lbs. tongue weight, I see no way can I even reach 600 lbs., for years we have been pretty minimal in what we take with us, that's why I'm considering these springs so the Ram will not squat the 2 1/2" and that's if I was to reach the 600 lb. tongue weight. which I doubt I would. I can't see where it puts anything in jeopardy on the toe vehicle either. Max. payload 1,840 GVWR 7,100 Max towing 8,240 GCWR 13,900 trainman

Wondering about these springs to help with the rear sag on the Ram with the Elite II in tow. I just this last week towed our Casita with a 430 lb. tongue weight and the sag on the Ram was 1 1/4", all towed well and had no control problems and never felt there was any under all road conditions, no rain was encountered. I estimated with the Elite II in tow with a tongue weight of 600 lbs, by adding weight to the hitch area, ie. standing on the Ram bumper would drop to 2 1/2" at the hitch ball height. I may never reach that 600 lb. weight, but just wanted to have a safe margin for the factory 460 lbs. to what max might be. All being said, I do not want the Anderson WDH, I personally feel that I'm right on the border line of needing one and these springs can handle what little difference there is. I did talk with the local hitch dealer and they said this was a much better way to go then air bags. Living in Ft. Worth, Texas where towing is an everyday event, they said they install many Sumo Springs over selecting the the air bag option and as you know farmers and ranchers don't want to screw around with them, plus they work out of their trucks and just wanting something that works when they need it. These Sumo Springs will not change to ride of the truck as they only work when a load is put on them, they recommend the 1500 lb. springs as that's what they put on most vehicle with similar towing conditions. Personally I think this is a good option for such a little difference in tongue weight to correct a potential problem. What do you think about Sumo Springs? trainman

We ordered our new Elite II without the front and rear graphics as I will have one custom done after I come up with a design that works for us. I did have then do the side graphics in the pinstripe design in one color, light gray, which can be easily pulled off if I choose to do so at a later date. trainman

So which rack can handle 150 lbs. the old style, or the new style, e-bike is looking better everyday. trainman

If this interest anyone our new 2019 Ram 1500, 4X4, Crew Cab got 14.1 MPG pulling our 2018 Casita this week. We only went around 350 miles to Tyler State Park from Ft. Worth, Texas, pretty flat driving and not too many hills along the way. No 18-wheeler's, or cross-winds gave any problems for the truck or trailer, in fact I never felt a push from the wind on the trailer in any direction, I do not use a sway-bar, or equalizer hitch. I do not plan to use a sway-bar, or equalizer hitch when pulling our new Elite II, or at least I will try it first and see how it handles. The Casita with tongue weight of 430 lbs. is reasonable to the Elite II with is around 460 lbs. dry weight. I've done a weight test on the Ram's hitch and the truck will only set down 1 1/2" with that amount of weight hitched. The Ram still sets correctly and the front end never felt light and was always under control at highway speeds, remember I will be looking for any problems that may occur when testing without the sway-bar and equalizer hitch. Remember the new Ram has upped there GVWR and it's well within its max limits, so I do feel that I will be operating within a safe margin to experiment with this test setup. We do travel light when we camp, so our Ram will have very little weight in it except for our weigh we will probably be caring around 200/250 lbs. max and that will be in the cab of the vehicle. Remember it will be a test to see if we need an Anderson setup or not. trainman

The old model bicycle rack does look and function much better then I think the new on will. Don't know why they changed, plus you have to remove the rack to get the spare off, what sense does that make and you still have to purchase a bike rack, more $$$$$'s to spend, you will have a $1000 tied up in a bike rack and I don't even care to ride. Well the wife gets her bicycle to ride when camping, I guess that's worth the $1000. trainman