Galway Girl

You could maybe reach in with some long needle nose pliers or a screw driver to see if it's loose. The picture below is looking into the burner assembly for the coupler you seek. CAVEAT - What I'm describing below is not an official repair guide. It's a description of what will be done by a qualified repair technician. It takes about 30 minutes to remove the burner assembly, tighten the coupler and re-assemble. If a qualified service technician needed to remove the burner they would first take pictures of all the wires before disconnecting anything. Then the technician will: `) Turn off gas to the trailer at the tanks. 2) Burn off what's in the gas lines by lighting stove until burners go out. 3) Make sure the Truma is OFF, and pull the 12V device Fuse. 4) Disconnect the gas line from the Truma. Use a backing wrench on the gas coupler. 5) Take Off 2 Torx screws that hold the burner box down in (they are below the control valves.) 6) Disconnect wiring harness, and other spade lug wires. The bundled black wire harness has an automotive style plastic tie down that can be pulled out with pliers. (Bottom left yellow circle) 7) Once the wires are loose the technician would gently wiggle the burner out part way to expose the igniter and sensors. (Note- the gas line has a bit of flex/tension pressing inward and needs to be held out of the way a bit to the right side while removing and re-installing the burner. An extra hand is useful to hold that gas feed to the right side.- With the burner part way out (shown below ) next loosen the hold down bracket Torx screw (don't remove fully) for the single (White) sensor and then remove the 2 Torx screws that hold the dual wire (White) igniter. The technician will need to remove the purple and brown/red spade lug wires from the sensor. Once the igniter, sensors and wires are detached the burner assembly can be removed to a workbench. 8. Wiggle the burner the rest of the way out and check / tighten the burner feed coupling that is shown below: Note- the gas line has a bit of flex/tension pressing inward and needs to be held out of the way a bit to the right side while removing and re-installing the burner. An extra hand is useful to hold that gas feed to the right side. 9) Reassemble reversing the process making sure to be gentle while replacing the burner. The copper chimney/heat exchanger is delicate so be slow and steady when replacing the burner assembly. After the technician gets everything back together...they will to check for any gas leaks at the main connection (soapy water, and gas sniffer). Turn on the gas and run the stove for a bit to make sure gas is back in the lines. Finally they will put the fuse back in and test the Truma for function. Craig

Our most recent sightings: Thur May 2 - Target - Eastbound I40 Location: 20 Miles East of Santa Rosa NM (MP 255) Description: Oliver EII - White Truck / All White Oliver no front Logo Sun May 5 - Target - Eastbound I40 Location - Between Flagstaff and Winslow MP 218 Description: Truck (Blue?) Oliver EII - Blue & Gold Logo on Front Craig & Rose Galway Girl - Hull 505

At Lake Havesu Az at Cattail Cove SP. Nice level sites with Wafter & 30 amp. Thd park he’s a beach, boat launch , small visitor's center and fish cleaning station. Bathroom and showers are clean and modern with high pressure hot water. We are in site 15.

Thanks to @AlbertNTerri I was able to field repair the truma unit. Their note described the specific burner feed line that was loose. I removed the burner assembly and found the main connection inside the burner was loose. The connection is the brass fitting in the pix. That connection was loose, not even hand tight. I tightened it back to spec and checked all wiring for any burns and they were all ok. IMG_7603.mov Tested gas pressure and it was correct. Cleaned soot from burner Assembly and reinstalled burner. Checked for gas leaks then lit off the Truma. No more whoosh/boom. This was made possible because an Oliver forum person posted the repair steps that a Truma tech did to repair their unit. I asked Jason to let truma know about this unit failure, and suggest they send out a service note on this topic. I ask those going to the rally to point out this issue to Truma Reps at the event. I will submit this as a new incident NHTSA as it was dangerous. Unit info: Model Serial No: DLE 60G 32123091 direct vent automatic instantaneous water heater Regards, Craig Short Hull 505

I’ve just had my second truma unit start having the same issue. timeline: Delivery of Trailer: Aug 2019 Failure of Truma: Jan 2022 New Unit in Service : Jan 27,2022 Failure of unit 2 : May 1, 2024 (One week after Oliver completed yearly service.) New unit failure is Model Serial No: DLE 60G 32123091 pix video IMG_7543.mov Any names of contacts and email at Truma would be a big help! I’m in contact with Oliver and will update as the service ticket progresses. craig hull 505 Galway Girl

In Homolvi Ruins SP near Winslow AZ. Heading toward Disneyland. This park has water & electric and baths with showers. An RV dump is available by the exit. Pix of trailer from site 9. ‘

Had the trailer in for yearly service, which included Dometic A/C service. At a campground a couple days later a gust of wind blew the cover off and cracked on the ground. The two rear shroud screws were missing , the front ones in place but broken out. I did a basic repair with white epoxy and the added 6 new self tapping screws around the perimeter. I’ve asked if service would ship me one of the used covers from their pile. If not I’ll go find the part online. craig Hull 505 - Galway Girl

Enjoying Lake Thunderbird SP site 19 near Oklahoma City 30amp full hookup site in Hickory Hill loop.

I too use blocks but they were not put back during pick up.

We were at the factory for our yearly service last week with over 4 years and 50k miles towed! The team did a great job doing the full yearly service and all was well, the trailer was parked and ready for pickup. I got hull 505 hooked up and ready to roll then headed back in to say final goodbyes to Jason , Mike and the team. When I came back to the truck I forgot I hadn’t completely retracted the tongue jack. Ashamed of my dumb move I walked back in to ask for help. Jason said it happens all the time and made me feel a bit better then walked back in parts and found a replacement lower leg unit. The team used a sawsall to cutoff the bent leg, unbolting the leg above and removed the power head. Bolted on the new leg with new star washers to make a clean electrical ground to the chassis. They attached the power head and checked function. I hooked up and made sure to fully retract the leg. I went in and paid my bill feeling lucky to have done the damage in the parking lot of Oliver. I didn’t believe that it happened that often…but…The next person picking up their trailer did exactly the same thing, so the service team really does see it all the time. Sometimes more than once a day. I’ll post a part number for the lower/leg part and update this post later. Wife Rose suggested I carry a spare leg and a sawsall for our travels! Craig

I use the solar accessory plug which is near my 2019 battery compartment for several 12v accessories. It has a SAE connection that is wired through a fuse to the trailer batteries. While its SAE connector it set for zamp panels it works for anything you wish. Just pay attention to polarity as the zamp connecters are reversed from normal SAE. Adapters can be made from that SAE plug to your fridge. Zamp Solar Port On Oliver EII - Note : Top Pin is ( + ) Terminal Bottom is ( - )

We use the carefree tie down poles One caution: if it’s windy enough even those poles cans be lifted off the ground. Also, with the awning rail tied down, the awning material still billows up and stetches a bit. The longer term outcome is that the awning material slides toward the center from both ends after prolonged use with poles. Our awning is now 3” in on each end of the outside rail. Here’s our article on the topic: https://4-ever-hitched.com/ggs-blog/f/furnishing-the-oliver-campsite?blogcategory=Camping+Equipment Galway Girl - Hull 505

We had a similar issue until I figured out that Metal stems can be tightened down at the nut to stop leaking. To do the job, take off the sensor. Hold the threaded valve stem with needle nose pliers while tightening nut. Careful to not damage stem threads.

From the motor of our 2019

Optical illusion. The pad is sloping down to truck. Had to raise nose 10” for trailer floor to be level and 3” low on curb side as well.

There are two ports on the outside of the trailer. One is labeled for a satellite feed and should be the loose cable in the attic. the other cable is labeled for cable and should be connected to the back side of the tv amplifier along with the cable from the digital hd antenna. (Both connections are behind the cover plate of the tv amplifier. in my trailer those two cables were inadvertently mis labled at the factory. I plugged the CATV onto the satellite drop inpu and it worked. Maybe check that the cables are really connected from the CATV input in the side of the trailer to the amplifier connection behind the cover plate in the attic.

Staying 2nights at Gulpha Gorge CG in Hot Springs NP. Site 12 is a FHU site and good size but with a large downward pitch and sideways roll. Other smaller sites without hookups back onto the creek.

David, You are welcome. After I saw the carriage bolt heads when I looked inside under the beds I thought a post may be helpful. I checked mine and re torqued them as I prepared the post. Sorry we missed saying goodbye. craig & Rose

Guess it’s time to spend or lose it.

At the eclipse meet up I was asked about tightening the stabilizer rear jacks. i use blue threadlocker to help with bolt retention. Spec: 3/4” Leveling Jack flange bolt nuts (43 ft-lbs). Bolt locations shown for rear. inside : outside:

It says on the mp2 datasheet: ”Two AC Outputs The main output has no break functionality. The MultiPlus takes over the supply to the connected 120V loads in the event of a grid failure or when shore/generator power is disconnected. The transfer time of the L1 output is less than 18 milliseconds so that computers and other electronic equipment will continue to operate without disruption. The transfer time of the L2 output is longer: approximately 40 milliseconds. The second (auxiliary) output is live only when AC is available on the input of the MultiPlus. Loads that should not discharge the battery can be connected to this output.”

It says on the mp2 datasheet: ”Two AC Outputs The main output has no break functionality. The MultiPlus takes over the supply to the connected 120V loads in the event of a grid failure or when shore/generator power is disconnected. The transfer time of the L1 output is less than 18 milliseconds so that computers and other electronic equipment will continue to operate without disruption. The transfer time of the L2 output is longer: approximately 40 milliseconds. The second (auxiliary) output is live only when AC is available on the input of the MultiPlus. Loads that should not discharge the battery can be connected to this output.” You might try asking service how they connect up their 3000 watt inverter to run both a/c and outlets.

The shore power ( or generator) feeds thru the ems to the breaker panel. The a/c ciircuit is on its own 20 amp circuit . if you want to power the a/c from the new inverter, you would need to also wire into that 20 amp breaker from your inverter. what does the multiples 2 have as ac output? Is it one output or two?

I believe in your specific trailer has two external ports for shore power. Those connections first go to the transfer switch that is on your front wheel well. That shore or generator power (when applied to either port) goes through that transfer switch then the output connects to the input side of the EMS. The output of the EMS connects to the main Breaker Panel. On that panel you'll see the following breakers as indicated on the inside door panel. The #4 (20A double wide ) breaker is the one that feeds your outlets and microwave. It's also the one connected to the GFCI outlet under the front dinette seat. It's this circuit that your inverter feeds when you turn it on. As to the PF4000 charger output. In the photo you'll see I've taped off the 15A breaker #5. That's the breaker that fed power the charger in the PD4000 panel. I've also disconnected the PD4000 charger outputs from the battery circuit and capped and taped the charger output wires. (That way even if the breaker is flipped on, no power will be applied to the new batteries from that old charger.)

I upgraded our 2019 from the older 2000watt xantrex inverter to a new combo 2000w xantrex inverter/charger and added Lithionics batteries. I disconnected the on board progressive dynamics charger (below the dinette). I suggest you do a diagram of your current wiring before doing any work. I created an article on our upgrade: https://4-ever-hitched.com/ggs-blog/f/lithium-battery-upgrade?blogcategory=Electrical+Upgrades I left out the ems connections in the diagram. if you have questions after looking at that pm me and we can talk directly on the phone. Craig Short