Rivernerd

The auto-switching function is most likely just broken, but the inability to even manually switch between tanks could have been frozen. Your regulator may not have worked properly even when it was new. With our hull #1291, I have had to manually switch between tanks since we bought it new in Hohenwald. That prompted me to invest in Mopeka tank sensors, which are on a Cyber Monday sale right now. Buy two, one for each tank. https://www.amazon.com/Mopeka-Check-Sensor-Steel-Tanks/dp/B09J6MXJKT/ref=sr_1_6?dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.7Exyy9znT-SQGS49BGKyHY8ska73Uv8UcW7kjFcD5amLXllefHdvZI9wor2zVTUu_HhYmQxB3bapRHQuaIsBOy6fqVjO7n3zsjQ9skHvk2LQmqIbgav0y31tXmkHXPjxRMvJD0WQLLb5H2SPD6tEMIXdiP5KAe6190HRcuSaGgLPY_82w62plWFkRqUzSt9C2P2BuIibPH-53VmHFVohGOm0i5u8ejoXxzjTHAFhKYA1KJi-YdzdikEnsHz5-nSqBoTB8mn2Lc_RZEoDJ-xbdZgGxet5-WJzelCBJJCRgn0.2nf7_EzuuwFWa_vGhzCEyPMqhD9F4i7-2d7c70IgJu0&dib_tag=se&hvadid=678467137404&hvdev=c&hvexpln=0&hvlocphy=9029558&hvnetw=g&hvocijid=39930829735022087--&hvqmt=b&hvrand=39930829735022087&hvtargid=kwd-2239628814146&hydadcr=7696_13589679&keywords=mopeka%2B2%2Bpack&mcid=2a3b25f10644368bbbb60cf5e4c564c8&qid=1764610880&sr=8-6&th=1 I monitor propane levels with the app on my phone, then manually switch when one tank gets low. I am interested to know if you are able to manually switch the regulator between tanks once it thaws out.

Attached is Lithionics' most recent (to my knowledge) battery storage protocol. Note that if your batteries are "subject to winter conditions", Lithionics recommends that you either leave them connected to shore power (so the internal heaters can protect them), or remove them and store them "above freezing". Leaving shore power connected avoids the need for shutdown. For what it's worth, during our very cold winters in central Idaho, we leave our Elite II connected to shore power, but do a charge-discharge cycle after 6 months of storage. Lithionics Storage Procedure Rev.7-1.pdf

Lots of wood inside. Would not work for us, as the wife has a severe mold allergy. Trailers leak, and once any wood gets wet and does not quickly dry out, mold happens. We are glad we could afford an Oliver Elite II.

As the 30A RV receptacle passed inspection when the original structure was built, and since I cannot find a 30A single pole GFCI receptacle, or a 30A single pole GFCI breaker for my Square D Homeline panel, I am hoping the inspector will leave it alone. Also, further research suggests that it arguably is not a "branch circuit" but a dedicated "feeder" circuit solely for the travel trailer, and so may also be exempt from the GFCI requirement on that basis. Below is a note to Section 551.71(F) of the NEC, which reads, in part: "GFCI protection shall not be required for other than 125-volt, 15 and 20-ampere receptacles used in recreational vehicle site equipment." The note reads: Informational Note No. 2: The definition of Power-Supply Assembly in 551.2 and the definition of Feeder in Article 100 clarifies that the power supply cord to a recreational vehicle is considered a feeder. These plug-and-cord connections are considered to be feeders, not receptacles. Since feeders are not required to have GFCI protection for personnel, the requirements of Section 210.8 would not apply to them. One rationale offered for this exemption is that: " the high current would cause nuisance tripping of the GFCI due to normal leakage currents from the RV's appliances." I have verified that the balance of the electrical installation meets or exceeds current code requirements. So, I plan to request an inspection and see if the inspector calls out the dedicated 30A RV receptacle. If he does, it appears my only option would be to install a 240V 30A GFCI breaker in my Square D Homeline panel, but wire only 1 leg of it to the 120V dedicated RV receptacle, per Snackchaser's suggestion above. Thanks for your input!

I have prepared this post in the hope of saving any of you who do your own electrical wiring from going down the same "rabbit hole" I just did. Per the title of this post, 30A RV receptacles (outlets) are not required by the NEC (National Electrical Code) to be GFCI (Ground Fault Circuit Interrupter) protected. How do I now know? Read on. I am wiring an addition to my detached garage, where I store our Hull #1291. When the original garage was built, the NEC (and Idaho Code) only required ground level 120V 15A and 20A outlets to be GFCI protected. The original garage passed electrical inspection, because the one and only ground level outlet in that garage was a GFCI. The 30A RV outlet next to it was approved, even though it is not GFCI. The 20A garage door opener receptacle (on a separate 20A circuit) near the 14-ft. ceiling was also approved without GFCI, because it is so high off the floor. So was a separate 15A lighting circuit, which feeds other receptacles at ceiling level (into which LED UFO lights are plugged), as they are all 14 ft. off the floor. When adding circuits for the addition into the existing subpanel in that detached garage, I checked for amendments to the NEC relating to garages. I knew that when you add to an existing structure, the entire structure must usually be upgraded to meet current electrical code. I learned that the current code (pun intended) requires that ALL 120V receptacles 50A or less in a garage must now be GFCI protected, even those high in a ceiling. The apparent reasoning behind this change is that some folks plug pull-down cord reels into garage ceiling outlets, which brings electrical power down to a level where contact with a wet concrete floor could produce a shock--thus the perceived need for GFCI protection even in garage ceiling receptacles. So, I believed I had to add GFCI protection to all circuits in the original and new structures, either with a GFCI outlet closest to the panel on any 15A or 20A circuit, or with a GFCI circuit breaker in the panel. There are 15A light circuits which have receptacles, because the LED UFO lights plug into ceiling receptacles, and 20A garage door/outlet circuits in that garage, along with the aforementioned 30A RV outlet. But, I could not find anywhere online either a 30A 120V GFCI receptacle or a 120V 30A GFCI circuit breaker (I found 220V dual--pole 30A GFCI versions, but no 120V single pole ones), and our 30A RV outlet is 120V, as it must be to enable connection to an RV. Why? Further research informed me that 30A RV receptacles are exempted from the general rule that all 120V receptacles 50A or lower in a garage must be GFCI protected, regardless of how high they are off the floor. All I could find through a Google search is that such 30A receptacles in RV parks and campgrounds are exempted, so 30A 120V receptacles in garages are likewise exempt. So, it appears I can leave that 30A RV receptacle alone, and it should pass inspection. I invite any more knowledgeable readers to correct me if I am wrong, or to explain the reason for the exemption. I just find it curious....

We have a Girard awning, so I have no relevant experience. Looks like it is time to start tearing into the roll-up mechanism. Now that you have removed "both ends", I would start by studying the owner's manual. Below is a link to the Carefree of Colorado website through which you can hopefully find the applicable manual by product name for download. https://www.carefreeofcolorado.com/product-library/ There is also a toll-free number listed on that website. I would call seeking a tech support person who might be able to advise you. Good luck!

On our Hull #1291 the sprayer on the outside faucet is threaded onto the supply hose. I screw the sprayer head off the hose, then push the hose through the access hole to the inside of the hull. I then take the sprayer inside, open the driver's side rear hatch, locate the hose and thread the sprayer back onto the hose for cold weather storage.

For what it's worth, we spent a couple of nights in New Mexico and Colorado in November 2022 when temps dropped as low as 9 degrees F. We did not winterize the water system, so we could continue to use it. We pulled the outside faucet inside. We placed digital thermometers in the "underbelly" of our Elite II near the outside faucet in the rear and under the front dinette seat. We kept our Truma Varioheat furnace running at 70 degrees F all night, but not during the day when we were on the road and daytime temps were above freezing. We also kept the antifreeze attachment in our Truma water heater activated. The digital thermometers confirmed that the temp did not drop below 32 degrees F in the "underbelly" even when outside temps were as low as 9 degrees F.

I use spray white lithium grease, then wipe off the excess with a paper towel. Lasts longer than WD-40.

One can hope that the potential Norcold successor, Dave Carter & Associates, will take over production facilities and will keep making replacement parts. That said, I still would like to know what parts have failed in the past that may be worth buying...

Me too. We have a Norcold refrigerator in our 2022 Elite II. What parts have failed in the past, that I may wish to buy, just in case?

We tow our Elite II with a 2019 SR5 Double Cab Toyota Tundra, which is technically a 1/2 ton truck, but has many features common to 3/4 ton pickups, like oversize disc brakes. We opted to try to make the Tundra work, as we already owned it when we bought our Elite II. With an Andersen weight distribution hitch, the Tundra is an adequate tow vehicle for two of us, with gear, towing an Elite II. I don' feel like "the tail is wagging the dog" when towing--with the Andersen hitch. As noted by Topgun 2, a more important limiting factor is payload capacity, not listed "Towing Capacity." Towing capacity is calculated with nothing but an average-sized driver in the tow vehicle. If you plan to drive alone, with minimal gear, you might barely squeak by with a Colorado towing an Elite II. Another important factor is the curb weight of the tow vehicle vs. the trailer. If trailer weight exceeds tow vehicle weight, the "tail" may "wag the dog" in some conditions--not good. The curb weight of our 2019 Tundra SR5 Double Cab is roughly 5600 lbs. An Elite II weighs just over 5K lbs. empty. We put more of the gear and people weight in the Tundra than in the trailer, to increase our tow vehicle-to-trailer weight ratio. As noted above, this is just adequate, in my experience. The curb weight of a new Chevy Colorado is listed at between 4164 and 4827 lbs. Had I already owned a Colorado when we bought our Oliver Elite II, I would not have been comfortable "getting by" with one. I would have chosen to "bite the bullet" and trade up to a 3/4 ton. So, I recommend at least a 3/4 ton tow vehicle. You will be much safer, and I expect, enjoy the towing experience much more.

The photo of the cat is cute, but a photo of the CP Plus wall unit display when the furnace is still running, when the temp in the cabin is beyond the set temp, would be more useful. It might enable progress toward diagnosis of your issue.

Do you have the CP Plus wall control unit for your Truma furnace? Could you attach a photo of the display on the unit when the furnace is still running but the set temperature has been reached? And, an update to your footer showing hull number, model year and installed options would be very useful to those of us trying to help.

Time to replace both tanks, and as Geronomo John recommends, the regulator as well.

Short answer: leave them connected to shore power, as the Lithium Platinum Package Lithionics batteries have internal heaters that protect them from freezing so long as they have sufficient power supply. BUT, disconnect shore power once every 3 months (when ambient temps are above freezing) and turn on appliances, lights etc. to run the batteries down to 30%. Then plug shore power back in, which will recharge the battery bank back to 100% and keep it there. That is what we do with our Lithium Pro Package Lithionics battery bank in much colder winter temps in central Idaho. The only difference is our batteries have an external heating pad installed by Oliver with a separate switch mounted on top of the battery bank, as they do not include internal heaters like yours do.

I second Ronbrink's endorsement of the LockNLube coupler for your grease gun. I must grease lots of zerks on my Kubota tractor, so have become a LockNLube coupler fan. I also recommend LockNLube's zerk caps. They have worked well on my tractor to keep dirt out of the zerks, so I have also installed them on the zerks on my Elite II. They are overpriced at $11 for what they are, but they work. I have no financial interest in LockNLube, just positive experience with these two products. https://www.amazon.com/LockNLube-Grease-Fitting-Count-Yellow/dp/B0779K66DW/ref=sr_1_1_pp?dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.T8hZ8VHh7n8q0Y30ncw1Zvsvok5f6vxLfm-VFmTE4o9O5jCMC0xZl_8Qis_WTuJx0T23YcDDPnRHvDiYoH8C9l0hDEQcd_u_ciE36NWaysFxgMqQa5lvjJjPQz52Q-v0amx0f3bbIlAln7jMclOsI57EAMXdty7ZBK_jpW4S_BMU5glY7lQwHlt_P-Ro-gGdnON8stpS6I21R2IHz41-VJZuRFrkf2HY_L1p9vYcEeb2wYpNkXEUEJTXPlcQi1UG-GK4sqUYFBtfzKmV24VB4I2On4pTDUB94-w1_dl6aEQ.jnjsiornpd_gBb-D-BGini1OeYpO1kK6xBhHgEc6HcE&dib_tag=se&hvadid=695444684338&hvdev=c&hvexpln=67&hvlocphy=9029558&hvnetw=g&hvocijid=17929369996106615123--&hvqmt=e&hvrand=17929369996106615123&hvtargid=kwd-488087789682&hydadcr=7441_13183977&keywords=lock%2Bn%2Blube%2Bgrease%2Bfitting%2Bcaps&mcid=bf8e3ce829e9318caf67405886b6af15&qid=1761057611&sr=8-1&th=1

I expect you can carefully adjust the cables to create enough slack to enable the TV to hang vertically. My cables do not restrict the TV from dropping to vertical, but it still hangs on the bracket several degrees out of plumb. I cut a length of smooth 1x2 lumber to serve as a prop to hold the screen vertical. I store the prop in the attic above the TV.

It seems to me this is another advantage for fiberglass trailers, like our Olivers vs. aluminum, like Airstream. Although the aluminum chassis in an Oliver is a good conductor, the fiberglass "skin" is not. Does anyone know if 30A receptacle testers presently on the market will detect bonded neutral and ground connectors at an RV pedestal? If not, I expect the code change will prompt market introduction soon.

"What is Oliver installing in new trailers?" Our Hull #1291 (2022) Elite II has an RV Safe Co and Propane Alarm. See photo. It appears to be smaller than your Atwood, and installed differently.

The rigid "foam" board is what we have in our Hull #1291 manufactured in October, 2022. It may not be apparent in the photo below, but our mounting board is not solid PVC. It has a "foamlike" feel to it, especially on the edge. It feels to me like it is a cross between solid PVC board and foam insulation board. That said, we have had no issues with screws loosening from that board, but we avoid driving on bad roads with our Oliver. I second Mossemi's "one size up" and Geronimo John's silicone adhesive recommendations. A "little dab'l do ya" on the screw threads.

Our Tireminder TPMS system has worked well on our Elite II for the past 2+ years. I mounted the booster under the rear dinette seat, with a "hard wire" connection to an unused slot in the 12V fuse panel, which is within inches of the mounting location. https://www.amazon.com/Minder-Research-TM22141-TireMinder-Transmitters/dp/B082QJ7H1R/ref=sr_1_1?crid=1MSJDVAH45HLF&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.xBmn1bCjMiZcg7st2OKRkkfI4kSlleW3UGbbTyKzXFW58FCKkTvAYe6M8Bp6luDUhzXIvBvKfxxi-sUnw5Nb_7Yzkp6Y4sehv6btJXLRERwcnu-a38tUXuey3rYQfVKmmP5oC8bGLQSm53BfH59q5zN_q49xhIqjwjLESh6sXsSA4mZl8kNbNp0ptIxNL72RHSkyMFCfnDYPrvAreT8Bb3lh2GrZQMIOk63Zv-6-844.SpXlweze8XL29HUrVGukyQVBGJQWg2nE_LS6bo-7zSw&dib_tag=se&keywords=tireminder+tpms+for+rv&qid=1759517098&sprefix=Tireminder%2Caps%2C200&sr=8-1&ufe=app_do%3Aamzn1.fos.5998aa40-ec6f-4947-a68f-cd087fee0848 We use the factory TPMS system for the tires on our 2019 Tundra tow vehicle.

I have the Rockstar full-width adjustable mud flaps on my 2019 Tundra tow vehicle. We are pleased with the performance, especially on gravel roads. The photo I hoped to include is not transferring properly, but we have the adjustable version, which is longer and therefore can extend closer to the road. Update: the photo is now attached.

I carry a Safe Jack RV Jack Kit in my tow vehicle. When testing it, I have jacked from the marked "Jack Point." That said, I plan to use the "stabilizer" jacks as well if I must change a tire by the side of the road. As jd1923 noted above, the trailer can shift if the ground underneath one jack point is soft. Three jack points is better than one, and the electric jacks are so easy to use. We also use our Tireminder TPMS system, with monitor mounted on the windshield, hoping to catch any trailer tire issues early! The person in the passenger seat checks the monitor regularly.

Thanks for your helpful suggestion. I have considered the Ride88 system. I actually purchased a different product from Amazon that secures the bike to the truck bed sidewall rather than that front of the bed: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0FP4TT13F?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title See attached photo. But, carrying my large mountain bike in the truck bed significantly limits the amount of other stuff we can haul in the bed. Our hope is to be able to carry the bike in a bike rack behind the trailer while on the road. Then, when necessary, secure the bike at night inside the truck bed with canopy. We can remove other stuff carried in tubs, that is a less likely theft target than the bike, and secure the bike inside the truck bed with canopy at night. Ronbrink, thanks for suggesting the front hitch mount. We may go that direction if we can't make the rear bike rack work. But, I am still hoping to find an RV-rated bike rack that will work with a 1.25" receiver. It seems to be that a 1-bike rack, properly designed, should not exceed the safe rear bumper load of an Oliver Elite II, and so be compatible with a 1.25" receiver. But, I have yet to find it!