Rivernerd

The "safe harbor" would be to file down the steel 1UP shank, to avoid reducing the strength of the (much softer) aluminum 2" receiver. As it seems you do not already own a grinder with a metal grinding wheel, I recommend you buy an inexpensive 4-1/2" grinder from Harbor Freight ($15), along with a steel grinding wheel ($2). That $17 investment will make quick work of grinding down the leading edge of the steel 1UP shank. Wear eye protection! https://www.harborfreight.com/43-amp-4-12-in-angle-grinder-with-slide-switch-58089.html?utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=22297023987&campaignid=22297023987&utm_content=174581963486&adsetid=174581963486&product=58089&store=54&gad_source=1&gad_campaignid=22297023987&gbraid=0AAAAADAHb4fYAJW562_ET-7xFgrqI0OTz&gclid=CjwKCAjw56DBBhAkEiwAaFsG-s7clZOjXr5HmLObHpLJU78M9ai56THL1WHHf7T8vdcqRRwuMLx5rBoCoVEQAvD_BwE https://www.harborfreight.com/4-12-in-24-grit-metal-grinding-wheel-64025.html Good luck!

I plug our Elite II into a 120V GFCI protected receptacle in my garage (current code requires all garage receptacles to be GFCI protected) when packing for a trip. With a 20 amp to 30 amp adapter, connected to the Oliver's 30A input, it works fine. FWIW, when storing our Elite II, it is connected to a dedicated 30A receptacle in our storage shed. I always use 30A receptacles at campgrounds, again with no issues, unless the campground power supply is bad.

I have driven, and towed a trailer many times, on all of the routes you are considering. I grew up in Idaho and regularly do the rivers accessible from those highways. You will have absolutely no trouble towing your Elite II with your 2500 on any of those roads. Just be sure to: (1) top off your fuel tank(s) just about every chance you get, as there are long, mountainous stretches with no services along those routes and (2) use engine braking (downshift to lower gears) going down steep, long hills. Relying exclusively on your brakes on these roads can burn them out quickly. You have correctly prioritized seeing the Sawtooths in Stanley. I recommend securing a reservation at Redfish Lake, if you can. Those sites fill up long before summer. Mid-week, there are often non-reserveable Forest Service sites along the Salmon River on Highway 75 available for a night or two. Good luck if you get there on a weekend. If your next priority is great scenery, either your 3A or 3B will provide lots of scenic mountain driving. 3A is more consistently scenic, with fewer miles of sagebrush prairie getting back east to Jackson, through Montana. Once you get close to Boise on your 3B, it's all sagebrush prairie from there most of the way on I-84/I-15 back to Jackson. If you choose "3B" through Boise, I agree with Galway Girl that Three Island State Park has good RV camping, not too far off I-84. Regarding your "5B" alternative, a stop at Shoshone Falls on the Snake River may be worthwhile as you pass by my hometown, Twin Falls, on I-84. It is higher than (but not nearly as big as) Niagara Falls. That said, I recommend finding a place to park your Elite II in town (like at Walmart) before heading down to Shoshone Falls Park, as that paved access road is quite narrow and steep. That is the one place where I would not want to take our Elite II. Highway 12 along the Lochsa and the Clearwater (referenced above), although beautiful, is not along the path of either your 3A or 3B. It would be best seen on another trip through "Scenic Idaho." Feel free to PM me if you would like to brainstorm your proposed routes, and possible RV camp spots along those routes, on the phone. I know them all well.

We have a CHORTAU dash cam purchased from Amazon in 2022. It can only be plugged into the truck cigarette lighter, but I believe CHORTAU makes a newer version that has a USB-C power connector. Our CHORTAU dash cam continues to work well, turning on each time we drive our 2019 Tundra. Fortunately, we have not yet needed to access video footage for evidence of an accident or vandalism, but we like having the dash cam installed for that purpose.

Please post Oliver's response to your service ticket, and your ultimate solution. Yours may not be the only hull with this issue.

You are right. But, the odds of such a fire spreading to your neighbor's trailer, and therefore creating liability exposure, are slim. Doing your own modifications would more likely just limit your ability to make a claim against Oliver or Truma for the loss of your trailer.

Your burner assembly will then be "better than new." We submitted our replacement request to Oliver promptly after receiving the recall notice, but still we wait for a properly crimped burner assembly...

I have had clogged zerks on my tractor. So, I own a Grease Buster: https://locknlube.com/collections/grease-fitting-rejuvinators/products/grease-buster?variant=32921003327572&nbt=nb%3Aadwords%3Ag%3A1349453652%3A115677505125%3A675289548624&nb_adtype=&nb_kwd=&nb_ti=dsa-19959388920&nb_mi=&nb_pc=&nb_pi=&nb_ppi=&nb_placement=&nb_li_ms=&nb_lp_ms=&nb_fii=&nb_ap=&nb_mt=&gad_source=1&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIs-ab06ybjAMVIS1ECB3ZRAfwEAAYAiAAEgI7pvD_BwE That said, I would try taking the weight off the zerk first. Then use a Grease buster, if still necessary.

You will never regret having the extra 140aH provided by two 300 aH batteries (600 aH total). In your shoes, I would go for the two 300 aH, since they fit in the battery tray. The digital monitor offered with the 460 aH battery adds little value, IMHO, given the availability of the app.

We have stayed at Ohanapecosh. It is o.k. Don't know about the other two.

I installed the Airlift Loadlifter 5000 system on our 2019 Tundra two years ago. It effectively reduced both squat and "jounce" when towing our Elite II, and added cornering stability. Our air bags rely on a manual air pump, which I prefer. It only takes me a couple of pumps with a bicycle pump to raise each spring to the 25 PSI level we prefer when towing. I was already carrying a bicycle pump for my mountain bike. I always carry a tire pressure gauge, so measuring the PSI of the airbags is easy. I cannot compare to the Firestone or RAS Roadactive systems, as I have no experience with either. But it appears to me that the RAS Roadactive system is not adjustable. We like being able to reduce pressure with our Air Lift system when not towing, then raise it again when towing. For what it's worth, the RAS Roadactive system presently costs $589 for our Tundra vs. $379 (with rebate) for the Airlift Loadlifter 5000. Given our positive experience so far, I would again choose the Airlift Loadlifter 5000 because it works well, for a significantly lower price.

The [20] error code on the inverter usually means low battery voltage shutdown, such as when an AC appliance draws more current than the inverter can supply at the time. This only occurs when you have no shore power, and are using the inverter to run a 120V AC appliance. I recommend you try turning your Lithionics batteries off, waiting 10 seconds, then turning them back on. Then ensure that the on/off button on the body of the inverter is out (off), and that the on/off button on the remote is in (on). [This is the "normal" mode for the Xantrex inverter--main body switch off, which enables the remote to control the inverter functions instead of the main body]. This has enabled my Xantrex Freedom XC Pro 3000 inverter to reset, making the [20] code disappear.

If you are correct, it is a remarkably poor business decision by Truma. The sooner the product failure is resolved, the sooner it fades from the public consciousness, and Truma's quality reputation can be rebuilt.

I have considered it, but only as a short-term solution. As a retired attorney, I accept that to be able to ultimately sell our Hull #1291 I must endure the pain of facilitating the recall work once "our" replacement burner assembly becomes available. Doing the work myself is not a legally viable alternative, even though I believe I may be more careful than many RV repair techs. If you feel better pulling the burner assembly and crimping the ends yourself before using your Truma Aquago pending receipt of "your" new burner assembly, go for it. But even if that may be as effective a practical solution as burner assembly replacement, it will not be legally sufficient to limit your liability when you sell your Oliver. That said, I am aligned with those folks who have opted to continue to use their Truma Aqugo units "as is," but with more careful monitoring, until the recall requirements are satisfied.

Did you try to reserve via the Oregon State Parks page at reserveamerica.com? https://oregonstateparks.reserveamerica.com/camping/beverly-beach-state-park/r/campgroundDetails.do?contractCode=OR&parkId=402126#sr_a I just checked for a 2- night stay on a random August 12 2025 date and found a number of RV sites available. I recommend you try again, maybe trying different dates and stay lengths. Good luck!

We lived in the Seattle area for 35 years. It is much cooler than Texas during August and September! It is also one of the driest places in the USA during July and August, believe it or not. The Northwest does not get the Southwest monsoons that time of year. But, by mid-September, the cloudy/drizzly weather moves back in. I concur with EurekaJ's recommendations above. While you are north of Seattle, I also recommend a night or two at Deception Pass State Park near Anacortes, Washington. And, if you are history buffs, a visit to Lewis and Clark's Fort Clatsop south of Astoria in Oregon is worth a stop. Plus, I recommend a few days exploring the Oregon Coast. I would book an RV site at Beverly Beach State Park (one of the nicer state parks we have been to) and do day trips from there, both north and south, to explore the many spectacular beaches and coastal rock formations.

This likely means that the replacement burner units have been received from Truma. Please report the results.

I once bought by mistake a cheap Astroai CM2KOR clamp meter that, to my dismay, does not measure DC amperage, only AC. So, I then bought a Klein CL390 clamp multimeter (for a higher price), that measures both AC and DC amperage. I carry the Klein in our Elite II. I also recommend the Klein CL390, about $68 presently on Amazon. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08DTDCG7T/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&th=1

Propylene glycol is used in many products sold for use by humans. One example is hair conditioner. It is not toxic to humans or animals. It is biodegradable. But, it can contaminate groundwater in sufficient quantity, or damage the essential microorganisms in a septic system. So, the environmentally safe practice is to recycle it.

Our 2019 Tundra takes less maintenance than my wife's sewing machines!

My mistake. I had forgotten that the Victron round wall display can be toggled to display more than the default charging voltage, as I always use the Victron app (but rely primarily on the more informative Lithioncs app). I expect all of the data available from the wall display and the app is provided by the shunt.

My post was incomplete. My apologies. My Victron BMV-712 Smart Battery Monitor defaults to display of charge current, so I presumed that is what you were seeing. But, as pointed out by Rolind above, the switch can be toggled to alternatively display state of charge. I never use that feature, because: (1) I rely primarily on the Lithionics app for state of charge levels individually on each of my batteries and (2) I also use the Victron Connect app (not the round display above the rear street side bunk) for a "backup" state of charge report. The Victron reports total, combined state of charge, not individually for each battery, unlike the Lithionics app. I recommend you get both apps installed BEFORE connecting the generators. They will enable you to monitor charge progress, and potentially address any issues that come up. Be sure to have your phone close to the battery bank while using the apps, as they use Bluetooth. I usually take a seat inside the trailer to check the app readings, then go outside to check the batteries when needed.

The "round" Victron "display on the curb side wall over the bed" shows present charging voltage, NOT State of Charge. Download the Lithionics app so you can use it to monitor State of Charge (SOC) of your three 130 Ah Lithionics batteries (390 Ah total), which is what matters most. For example, when a generator or shore power is connected to my Hull #1291 through the 30A connector on the street side, and the batteries are charging, the round Victron display reads: "14.6V". That is a proper charge rate for Lithionics 12V batteries. That tells me nothing about the level of charge in the batteries at the time, just the current charge rate (pun intended). To know State of Charge, or battery charge level at the time, I must consult the Lithionics app. The Lithionics app also advises whether the batteries are receiving charge at the time (Green) or being discharged (Red). This training was thoroughly covered during our orientation in Hohenwald. Sorry to hear you got limited orientation from your Oliver dealer at delivery. The electrical system is not affected by winterizing, and so should have been carefully covered. I recommend you file a service ticket with Oliver so they will know to educate that dealer.

WD40 is a very safe adhesive remover. I would try that, with a plastic razor blade scraper, before considering other products that could damage anything.

Discharge down to 10 volts on a 12V AGM battery (it appears your two 6v batteries are wired in series, making the two of them operate as one 12V battery) is well below 50% of capacity, which is not good. A lead/acid battery (like an AGM), even a "deep cycle" one, should not be discharged below about 50% of capacity. Said another way, a fully charged 400Ah AGM battery only gives you about 200 Ah of usable power before it begins to sustain damage. The usual charge range for a 12V AGM battery is a high of about 13V when full charged down to a low of about 11V when fully discharged. As Topgun2 has advised, the fact that your batteries read only 10V when fully discharged and 12V (each one at 6V) when fully charged suggests they have been damaged by discharge too deeply, too many times. Also, I suspect your AGM battery system was not designed to operate 120V appliances through the inverter for hours at a time. If you want to be able to run 120V appliances (like the TV) off the inverter for hours at a time without shore power or a generator, you need a very high Ah lithium battery bank. Lithium batteries provide much more usable capacity per Ah than do AGMs. And, you may also need a more powerful inverter. The conversion from AGM to lithium is neither cheap nor easy, but many on this forum have done it. Below is one starting point for that journey.