Rivernerd

The sensor inaccuracy is not limited to "older hulls." The fresh tank sensor on our 2022 Elite II reads 68 percent when full, with water draining out of the overflow. When the tank gets low, we have to guess how much water is left...

Maybe under the galley sink, and then the bathroom? I would check for leaks under the galley sink first, as water there can cause major issues. If the connections under that sink looks good, I would carefully examine the bath faucet and toilet supply line connections. Good luck! And, please report your results.

Happy Campers RV Holding Tank additive eliminated gray tank odors for us.

Yes, I have. My 2008 Tundra 5.7L with tow package has a factory transmission cooler, and I was unhappy when I learned that my 2019 5.7L with tow package did not. After following a thread on this forum addressing the topic, I bought a Veepeak OBD II scanner that reports via Bluetooth to my Android phone. Towing our Hull #1291 up a long hill on a 100-degree day in August 2023 our transmission pan temp got up to 263 F. Although Toyota claims that up to 300 F is "o.k." with proprietary Toyota transmission fluid, a (2020, I think) Tundra owner who posted on this forum repeatedly overheated, and then blew his transmission, towing an Elite II across the USA in summer temps. I then considered replacing the Tundra with a 3/4 ton GMC. But last winter, I ultimately chose to buy and install an aftermarket transmission cooler in the Tundra, as I still love Toyota reliability. In July 2024 towing our Oliver up that same hill on a 98-degree day, the transmission pan temp maxed out at 232 degrees F. We are keeping the modified 2019 Tundra for now.

For what it's worth, the Rophor levelers are ribbed (not smooth like the Andersens), and come with the rubber mats for placement underneath the levelers on hard surfaces. We have used them for almost two years now with no slippage or other issues.

I know the Tundra is classified by the automotive industry as a "1/2 ton", but my 2019 SR5 double cab standard bed Tundra with tow package has 13.9" and 13.6" disc brakes, a 5.7L V8 engine, and almost 3/4 ton (1480 lbs.) of payload capacity. With the Anderson WD hitch, that's close enough to "3/4 ton" for my purposes.

Replacing some of the extra chain links required to connect the Anderson weight distribution hitch to an Oliver Elite II with turnbuckles is another method that eases whale tail installation. I carry Robogrips in my Tundra to enable easy turning of the turnbuckles. The turnbuckles allow me to adjust chain tension without getting on the ground under the trailer. l generally favor Steve Morris' "move the tow vehicle" approach detailed in his post above, but there have been occasions when I was glad I had installed the turnbuckles. See the posts starting with one by John Davies dated November 26, 2022 from the below thread:

Yes, I am satisfied with the 390 Ah of Lithionics LiFePO4 batteries in our 2022 Elite II. I got educated about batteries and solar panels more than 20 years ago when I needed to power a CPAP machine on wilderness river trips. At that time, the best batteries commercially available were AGMs, which are sealed but are lead/acid based. I replaced them every 3 years to avoid failure on a long remote river trip. I studied lithiums for years, and finally "bit the bullet" and bought some to power my CPAP when prices came down about 5 years ago. So, when ordering our Oliver, I was persuaded that the significant upcharge for the lithium package, given our plans to boondock, made sense for us. Your recent posts on this thread suggest you have resolved your current issue by cleaning the terminals on your 6V AGMs. But, depending on how "fresh" your AGMs were when installed in your 2021 Elite II, you likely have between a few months and 4 years of remaining life, as lead/acid chemistry only lasts between 3 and 7 years from date of manufacture. And, deep discharge (like you have just experienced) shortens the life of any AGM battery. In your shoes, I would carefully study the recent posts by helpful Oliver owners on this forum who have installed Epoch LiFePO4 batteries, including those in the thread listed above by jd1923, and make an informed decision about whether the lithium upgrade makes sense for you. Every time we boondock, we are grateful we "bit the bullet" for the Lithium Pro package on our Elite II.

I concur with Ronbrink's advice. We use the Rophor system, which has worked well for us for the past two years, and is less expensive than some competitive products: https://www.amazon.com/Rophor-Leveler-Version-Leveling-Non-Slip/dp/B09NJSXRRB/ref=asc_df_B09NJSXRRB/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=693330410595&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=15739391212809512128&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9029558&hvtargid=pla-1637492471943&psc=1&mcid=8b6eff5b433a3cedbac02e4e81b209a9

Yep. How old are your AGM batteries? The symptoms you describe are consistent with dead batteries. Have you verified voltage directly on the battery terminals with a multimeter? If not, this is a good time to buy a decent quality multimeter and learn how to use it to check DC voltage. I have had good luck with Kleins: https://www.amazon.com/Klein-Tools-MM325-Multimeter-Manual-Ranging/dp/B0B57L9FNL/ref=sr_1_3?dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.61XKRl89-3qY_jOJ1tlRT6tFtXNi8iiTpXqgzJqMZsrq7RzLpFwfoWRgEHYrZp8penyQEogP6kuBaZthL2fdJqqzGaPZUGzR4Ve04WpsxcPqWYRXosVndFIsRAyHUEfeWwL2wFYskycszgVtiIZzkz10nH_v2yqeby4RP-ofXUq1_amtpf375sJDuy6KSDEZA3IShhRIX0z0PPh9ONsoOL32aw9119j9kyiVMmCjXJksbjlqQs6LxNXerLk8LHfRdd_4gJTGyRX2_9tTVMGDmBpCQP2MtLlTKd0NF4x6DpU.At0pL72QN-091RMJyRyQ4TbKFEcmWWFbNvncC9xG1qA&dib_tag=se&hvadid=580671312857&hvdev=c&hvlocphy=9029558&hvnetw=g&hvqmt=e&hvrand=7645837832001151333&hvtargid=kwd-29526678819&hydadcr=8432_13498106&keywords=klein%2Bmultimeter&qid=1726585739&sr=8-3&th=1 "Healthy" 12 volt AGMs should read at least 13V after charging. Any reading after recharge below 13V indicates a dead, or dying, AGM battery. If your AGMs are dead, I recommend you invest the time now to get educated about the pros and cons, including cost, of switching to Lithium Iron Phosphate (LiFePO4) going forward vs. buying a new set of AGMs. Since you boondock (like we do), if you plan to keep your Oliver for at least another 5 years, I believe the upgrade to LiFePO4 would pay off long term. The initial investment in Lithium batteries (and other components of a retrofit) is much higher, but they last at least twice as long and provide more usable 12V power per amp hour than AGMs. This long string may provide a helpful starting point: Good luck!

Looks like 5 to me...

You are now connected with a large group of willing mentors who, collectively, have nearly encyclopedic knowledge of camping with Oliver trailers. This forum is one of the best resources on those topics available anywhere. IMHO, the forum is better than any one mentor. Ask away!

Wish Toyota still made 'em. I would own one.

Bad sensors. Like those who posted above, we have learned that our fresh, gray and black tank sensors are terribly inaccurate. Our fresh tank sensor, for example, reads 68% when the tank is overflowing (and therefore clearly full) with the trailer level.

Although you report you do not have an inverter, do you have a main 120V breaker? The symptoms you describe make me wonder. Also, do you have a multimeter and know how to use it? I carry a multimeter in our Hull # 1291. If you don't already own one, now is a great time to invest. The Klein MM325 is one good option: https://www.amazon.com/Klein-Tools-MM325-Multimeter-Manual-Ranging/dp/B0B57L9FNL/ref=sr_1_9?crid=3KFKT3QBJFTS4&keywords=klein%2Bmultimeter%2Btester%2Bmm450&qid=1707755646&sprefix=Klein%2Bmultimeter%2Btester%2Caps%2C232&sr=8-9&th=1 Study the owners manual and learn how to set the multimeter to test voltage on 120V circuits when connected to shore power. I would start with the power connections on the EMS (in the attic) to determine if you have any loose connections there and are getting voltage in the 110V to 125V range. If that checks out, I would next check the input connections on the back side of the 120V panel (ours is under the dinette seat). Finally, have you submitted a service ticket to Oliver? Oliver 's topnotch Service Department may know something we don't about the way Olivers without inverters are wired.

Yes! I have hiked many days in the wonderful parks you have targeted, most of which include lots of vertical gain and loss. You knees will thank you, especially on the downhill slopes. You will gain/lose more vertical feet in a 1/2 day hike in Bryce or the Grand Canyon than when driving all the way from one end of Florida to the other.

Take trekking poles!

We, too, leave home with a full fresh tank. Our water at home tastes good and has low mineral content, unlike the water often available at campsites. We don't notice the weight difference when towing. If we must use the water at a campsite, we use an inline filter.

I am one who uses an Andersen WD hitch because we pull an Elite II with a 2019 Tundra. To ensure we are not over the GCVWR for the Tundra, we visited a CAT scale on our last trip. We're not even close. But, our fully-loaded Elite II weighed in at over 5000 lbs., so the WD hitch is required for us. That is what we suspected. I strongly recommend you verify whether you "have another 500 lbs. in there" with a CAT scale. You will then be empowered to decide whether you "feel lucky" enough to stick with your current setup.

Have you consistently used an inline water filter and water softener? If not, sanitizing the plumbing is overdue.

Great suggestion for installing the whale tail. Can you do the reverse for removal, i.e., safely detach the ball from the coupler with the whale tail still attached and the Andersen chains tight, then back up 1 to 1-1/2" to create slack to enable you to pull off the whale tail ?

This is the most important reason to use the Andersen hitch as designed: liability in the event of an accident. If your tow vehicle owners manual instructs to use a weight distribution hitch when towing more than 5000 lbs., "Just Do It." FWIW, I don't find installing or removing the whale tail to be much trouble, using the trick recommended by Jason Essary: once the hitch ball is attached, raise the front "stabilizer" jack (which also raises the rear of the attached tow vehicle), until you see slack in the chains. Did it a couple of times this past weekend.

Oliver uses Mystik No. 2, and recommends that owners also use it, to avoid mixing greases: https://www.amazon.com/Mystik-665005002901-Hi-Temp-Multi-Purpose-Grease/dp/B0B85SSQQ9/ref=sr_1_2?dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.T8s3eQBiwJh36veWt_W9io39pC8kilB52ekv2jldzv3qxB8wmo4PGUVkrlSIGW-LWagzMKZ3PQzRfwKLinMgDvTpX56OktuykKMLG0-Z3PDTZLlEiqkIdGbJwDVTuGiB9kVL3Pqf46wMmP-ELukh2Jjzep_N6qy24-5ylPpDrmjQOmVFqSW_9POcJGPB_glRD1rhYwmbyGDZfg-rcU-aie3u2JWB5f7xFeBEgIE1oRJotg2gMyztc2IzZImTxf0M4eKZkv4XJD7PCpDDdX3g5h5f32JPe9J6nJbblRy0qAA.Jvhjqox0XQDK6gHQJUtcEGqYN5IxZYj0v9B9G9mADfM&dib_tag=se&hvadid=295421046137&hvdev=c&hvlocphy=1026990&hvnetw=g&hvqmt=e&hvrand=5412146109433303244&hvtargid=kwd-569702912144&hydadcr=6402_9585570&keywords=mystik+jt-6+hi-temp+grease+2&qid=1721744170&sr=8-2

I concur. I bought Lock'NLubes for both of my grease guns for the many zerks on my Kubota tractor many years ago. Now I use them for the Elite II suspension. Overpriced? Yes. Worth it? Yes.

With our Xantrex Freedom XC Pro 3000 watt inverter, the button on the main unit (under the street side bed) must be in the "off" position (out, not pushed in) for the remote panel (next to the pantry at about eye level) to function. To turn on the inverter from the remote push the spring-loaded silver button in. Silver button out on the remote, like the main unit, is the "off" position. If the silver button on the main unit is pushed it, you can only operate the inverter from the main unit, which is a pain because it is under the street side bed.