Rivernerd

AGM (Absorbed Glass Mat) batteries are lead-acid based, like flooded batteries, so they should behave, and charge, the same as your existing batteries. AGMs will also have about the same expected service life as your Bright Way flooded batteries. But, they are sealed, and so require no periodic top-off. The challenge will be ensuring that the new AGMs are the same physical size and voltage as your existing Bright Ways, so they will fit in the battery tray and be "plug and play." And, if you plan to reuse your OEM battery cables, be sure to buy "dual terminal" AGMs, as that is the way your Bright Way battery bank is wired. I hope another Oliver owner has done this exact swap, and can provide more specific info, such as sizes, voltages and model numbers.

I concur. I still have an '08 (with a few dings) to get me to river put-ins, and a 2019 (that still looks new) for towing Hull #1291. Both are still reliable. That is why I installed a Genuine Cooling Systems transmission cooler in the 2019 rather than replace it with a 3/4 ton GMC. It tows our Elite II well (with an Andersen WD hitch) and summer transmission temps now remain normal when towing.

Should your plans change, Village Creek State Park near Wynne, Arkansas is one of the nicer state parks we have visited.

I could not find one for purchase online. I wonder if Oliver Service would sell you a Truma CP Plus wall control, with connecting cable, out of their inventory, with the understanding that the warranty would be voided? Sounds like you have the DIY skills to do the install. With Truma's limited service locations, the warranty has little value to me anyway, living in Idaho.

What you have done fits the protocol for Lithionics batteries, but that procedure is only required every 6 months when not in use, not monthly. See attached storage procedure. Lithionics Storage Procedure Rev.7.pdf

Oliver uses Mystik Red grease at the factory. If Lucas Red "N" Tacky is compatible with Mystik, you should be "good to go". I am also a Lock N Lube fan.

Precisely. Not real intuitive, but the button on the main inverter (under the street-side bed) must be in the "out" position, or off, to enable the remote (mounted on the wall) to control the inverter.

I drive my raft trailer on some pretty rough roads. I have learned over the years that RED Loctite is the only version that keeps the screws holding it together in place--most of the time! I still have to replace screws, and red Loctite occsionally. If you ever drive your Oliver on rough roads, I recommend red Loctite.

Two of these 1/2" Sharkbite valves with drains (one for hot, one for cold) plus a PVC pipe cutter, should be all that is needed. Depending on how much room you find around the Pex lines, I recommend making just one cut and trying to insert the Sharkbite fitting on both sides of that cut. If there is room, that is best. If some of the Pex must be cut out because there is not room otherwise, cut no more than 1/2 the length of the new valve out of the Pex pipe, to ensure enough Pex remains for insertion into both ends of the Sharkbite fitting. FWIW, when we camped with Hull #1291 with outside ambient temps of 9 degrees F, the lowest temp in the bottom of the hull was near the outside faucet. So, be sure there is no water left in the flexible hose to the shower handle as well.

Yes. Same as your situation, Oliver sent me a new one under warranty for our 2022 Elite II. The center breaker in the attached photo is the new one I installed. I turned off the solar switch in the overhead compartment above the street side bed, ensured that shore power was disconnected, then turned off all of the batteries using the on/off switch on each battery. Wear a headlamp, and keep a long-handled magnet handy in case you drop one of the screws that mount the breaker to the white HDPE block. They can be hard to find down in the belly of the trailer! Don't ask me how I know....

Thanks for reminding me to turn on the battery heater under my three Lithionics batteries for the winter! Our local forecast is for temps well below freezing starting tomorrow night.

This report is consistent with my experience as well. I have found the LIthionics app provides much more reliable State of Charge (SOC) readings. I have also found that: (1) fully recharging my Lithionics batteries, after nearly full discharge (down to 24% SOC) then (2) leaving the charging source connected for a couple more days enables the batteries to rebalance, and the Victron Connect app to read the same as the Lithionics app.

I concur with using Mobilith SHC for the jack gears, because that is what is recommended by Barker, the jack manufacturer. When servicing the jack head with the intent to replace all grease with Redline CV2 grease a couple of years ago, I could not remove all of the grease installed by Barker. So, I added Mobilth SHC to avoid compatibility issues. See this thread: I believe Oliver uses, and recommends, Mystik No. 2 red high temp grease, the middle tube shown in your photo, for all other purposes.

One tweak to the above settings if you experience low battery shutdown when using the 3000-watt inverter to power high-wattage appliances (like the microwave) with some later 2022 Elite II hulls: reset setting No. 02 for LBCO (Low Battery Cut Off) voltage to 11.5V rather than 12.1. Our Hull #1291 has the "new" 12V bus bar, which Jason Essary advised requires that LBCO be set to 11.5V.

Just think how pleasant it would be to hang out inside the black Oliver on a 100+ degree day, particularly with a Demonic air conditioner. We like our Oliver white, and we love our Truma AC.

We have camped in ambient temps as low as 9 degrees F with the furnace running on propane (nearly full time to keep up). We pulled the outside shower head inside the hull by twisting it off, then putting it back on inside. Our remote thermometers in the belly of Hull #1291 reported temps down to 33 degrees F, but not below. No freeze damage. Whew! That said, I do not recommend camping in an Elite II in temps below 15 degrees F, to be safe. With lows in the 20s F, you should be o.k. with the furnace running. Towing an Elite II in sub-freezing temps is a different issue, as it is potentially dangerous to run the furnace on propane while on the road. And, your water heater is at risk unless you have a Truma with the antifreeze adapter. On the trip mentioned above, we did our travel mid-day, when temps were above 32 F, because we choose not to run the propane furnace unless we are parked.

You are very kind. As a retired attorney whose litigation practice included defense of auto claims involving life-altering catastrophic injuries, I am not so generous. Cutting corners with a critical safety system, like legally-mandated trailer brakes, is not "genius;" it is remarkably stupid and grossly negligent. Given this discovery of such sloppy work, Oliver would be well advised to verify the efficacy of trailer brakes on each Elite II before they allow it to leave the factory.

How did you resolve the issue? Was it just a failed connector which was replaced, or should the two blue and one red wires be separated? If so, what should they be connected to? Where, exactly, under the bed on the driver's side in a 2022 Elite II should I look? Had you been involved in a catastrophic accident where functioning trailer brakes would have made a difference, the photo of the shrink-wrap solder connector you attached should have made Oliver a defendant in the case, and ultimately liable for a large percentage of any awarded damages. Such revelations demonstrating Oliver's obvious lack of production quality control, even in 2022, are disturbing to me. Whoever was responsible to verify the integrity of electrical connections was obviously asleep on the job. We have Hull #1291, one of the last built in the 2022 model year. Your post makes me glad I verified, and adjusted, trailer brake function on the road leading away from the Oliver Service Department facility right after we accepted delivery of the trailer. I recommend that anyone taking delivery of a new Oliver do the same. Particularly if their tow vehicle is not a 1-ton like yours!

As the issue seems to be 12V, what kind of batteries do you have? How old are they? Have you tested battery voltage with a multimeter?

Hydraulic spring compressors are easy to operate, and are pretty safe. See link below for $129, with free shipping: https://www.vevor.com/strut-spring-compressor-c_10324/vevor-strut-spring-compressor-4-5-ton-9920-lbs-hydraulic-jack-capacity-1-ton-rated-compression-force-auto-strut-coil-spring-compressor-tool-hydraulic-spring-compressor-for-strut-spring-removing-p_010965229806?adp=gmc&srsltid=AfmBOopoeYWWikeQmCcGKl47slQH4-rLCtrA7WJZn_-l09Cs4PORifLmAoo That is what I would do in your shoes.

I bought them so I could replace them myself when time allowed. Other commitments have, so far, been higher on the priority list, This is largely because Hull #1291 has spent much less time on the road than we hoped when we bought it, so miles are still low. I don't know what the weight rating is, but I believe it far exceeds that of the 4-leaf factory springs. I don't plan to replace the shocks yet.

Thanks for posting. All Oliver owners need to know that the factory 4-leaf springs have a limited life, and that springs often fail far from home, because that is when they are asked to flex the most. That is why I now have a set of four Alcan 5-leaf springs for my Elite II.

Another option that is also protected from rain: stuff the 7-pin up between the fiberglass housing and the aluminum a-frame. See photos below.

Have you opened a ticket with Oliver Service? They may know.

Me too. When inflated to about 20 PSI, it helps eliminate "jounce" when going over bumps.