Hokieman

I did a quick test with my 2021 LE2, but just used stuff I had with me while camping this past week. I used a Beech Lane leveler, 2 rubber jack pads, and a few 6x6 wood blocks. The total height off the ground was 6.5”. The rear wheel lifted free, very easy to do. If I wanted to remove the wheel, I would have lowered the rear stabilizer for additional safety. I did this test in a slightly sloped gravel parking lot, my objective being to simulate a roadside tire change. I assume the EZ Jack will work just fine, and will be more elegant and safer than my makeshift arrangement. I also think it’s much safer than a bottle or scissor Jack on the frame.

Works using the remote too.

Yes, I just tried it. And, if you long press the remote power button, the display goes dark!

Wow! That is Tip of the Month in my opinion. I was laying in my bunk last night looking at the glowing red power button on that audio system and decided I hated it too. I just long pressed the power button and….blackness. Lesson learned, read the manual. Thank you JD!

Thank you for asking Jason these questions!

Did anyone that attended the rally ask Oliver representatives the preferred method for changing a tire on the roadside while traveling? Jason Essary has apparently recommended the EZ Jack. The manual recommends a scissor or bottle Jack used on the designated frame locations.

I’m completely confused also. If either the Blaylock or the Anderson drive-up type jack works with Dexter EZ Flex suspension, I want to buy one for roadside repairs. Several posts on the forum and Facebook have advised these types do not work with the Dexter EZ Flex, but apparently it worked for Mobiljoy. One concern I have is if the spring shackles have a tendency to flip. If Jason is referring to the Dexter EZ-Flex models, which I assume he is, then Oliver owes it to all us to make this high priority safety issue very clear. I was not able to attend the rally. Could one of you “experts” run this to ground with Jason and others at the rally and get back to us?

See the following for an update.

Those type ramps have worked for some, and not worked for others. I did a test and raised one tire 6.5”, and the other wheel spun freely off the ground. See this lengthy thread with lots of discussion on the topic. https://olivertraveltrailers.com/forums/topic/3630-jack-points/

Four 1/4” SS bolts through 4 holes drilled in the bottom of the basket.

I have a 21 gallon Camco Rhino tank, looks just like Frank C’s, but a little taller. I carry it upright in the front basket on the optional Camco carry bracket when traveling. When empty, it’s light, easy to lift in and secure. There is only enough room left for the chocks and Beech Lane levelers, but that’s ok, I want to keep my tongue weight low. When camping, the tote tucks out of the way under the rear bumper horizontally. We then use the front basket for coolers, etc. I fill up the tote with gray water every other day when camping, and tow it to the dump station, very slowly as Frank C mentioned. On the way back, I usually put it in the truck bed to save wear and tear on the tote wheels. It’s not gross as it is only used for gray water. We have the Natures Head toilet, so the black tank has never been used. For those that are considering getting a tote (or have one but don’t use it), allow me explain how we use it, you may get some ideas. If you are staying in a conventional campground, and it’s popular, as most are these days, then you know there might be a traffic jam at the dump station before check-out time. I don’t know about you, but this is my least favorite camping time. If you have a tote, you can hook it up and head to the dump station in the afternoon, and have that pleasant experience all to yourself, take your time, and not get anything on you. The head back to camp to wash up and start on happy hour and dinner.

Another consideration for those that wish to install a single pole switch such as the BlueSeas 6006. It’s rated for 48V max, 300A continuous. Zamp confirmed to me that the dual Zamp 170W panels and 30A PWM controller that has been the standard with many OTT solar packages will not exceed 24V, and optimum amperage is about 17-18A at 60% SOC. So the BlueSeas 6006 switch is more than adequate. However, Zamp cautioned me that some MPPT controllers may exceed the 48V max in certain conditions, so caution should be used if you are considering this modification.

I called Zamp Tech Support on Monday to ask them these questions, I had a lengthy discussion with Lane. He admitted to me that he was not familiar with the NEC Codes referenced in the video, but advised he had never had a technical question about this issue. He said he would check around and get back to me if he found out otherwise. He also could not think of any technical reason not to install a single pole disconnect just as OTT installed mine, but could not guarantee anything because the custom install is not a Zamp design, it’s Oliver. He suggested I query Oliver on any concerns I might have. I gave it some thought, and decided I have no concerns, I’m satisfied with the wiring setup I have. This isn’t the only issue that might be a code violation, for example, most of us can agree the AC plug for the refrigerator is definitely not a safe installation, but also relatively easy to correct. That’s covered well in John Davies posts. So in sum, I respectfully submit I am not an certified electrical expert. Im just relaying what I think I heard from Zamp, so please don’t shoot the messenger. I’d like to add that I have called Zamp several times in past few years with questions, and they never fail to impress me with their knowledge and help.

I did not have a fan failure yet, but I wanted a spare. I called Natures Head last year and ordered an extra pee tank and some replacement screens. I noticed the fans are not shown on their web site for order. I asked them why, and they said they would send me two of them for free. They did just that, excellent customer service. Also, for those that don’t know, the fan is direct wired before the circuit breaker (at least it is on my trailer). It runs all the time if not disconnected. You can remove the fuse, but I disconnect mine with the connector plug at the toilet when not in use, but only if the toilet is extremely clean and dry.

I used this kit, it included everything I needed.

As I mentioned in my post earlier in this thread, a Blue Seas 6006 switch was OTT standard in my 2021 Elite 2. It is a single-pole switch, positive side only. It is installed between the panels and the controller. I will call Zamp Tech Support tomorrow to get their advice on single or dual circuit disconnect and let you all know what they say.

“It’s Deja Vu all over again” Yogi Berra 😉 https://olivertraveltrailers.com/forums/topic/6666-owners-manuals-component-guides-specifications-warranties/#comment-71634

Hah! It looks like at least 3 engineers and an A&P Tech are flogging this issue. Perhaps that’s because we are ana…uh I mean diligent. Seriously, I think we are all in agreement on the issues. I agree with John Davies suggestion about Technical Bulletin, and I plan to write up a Service Ticket. For those that didn’t know, there is a similar and equally informative topic John Davies started in 2017. http://olivertraveltrailers.com/topic/wheels-model-warranty-care/http://olivertraveltrailers.com/topic/wheels-model-warranty-care/ In that post Vector described a near catastrophic crash due to the loss of both wheels on one side while traveling at interstate speeds. I’m not sure if a root cause was ever found, but that original post alerted me to be very diligent about checking my torque values, tire pressures, tire & wheel bearing temps. Thanks JD. There a few key things I think this proposed Tech Bulletin could cover: - Correct lug nut torque values and tire pressures - Proper use and calibration of a torque wrench, including it’s limitations as an imperfect tool for measuring wheel nut clamping force. - Wheel studs & nuts should be dry and clean, free of lubricants or contaminants. Even if an owner has an accurate torque wrench, and knows how to use it, tightening lubricated nuts to 120 ft-lbs can approach or exceed the tensile strength of the studs, possibly causing a fracture. - Recommend that owners personally check & adjust lug nut torque after work done by tire shops who use impact wrenches secure wheel nuts. This could be a valuable tech talk at the Rally. Comments appreciated, I’ll be creating a ticket to make these suggestions.

Good to know! I notice the picture of the wheel on that link shows a Sumec sticker on it just like the one I found on my 2021 spare.

Blue Seas Single Circuit 6006. Click on higher resolution pic if you’d like to confirm. Note this switch disconnects the positive circuit between the panels and the controller. Zamp Tech Service told me they do not recommend a switch between their Zamp controller and batteries.

I looked online for the Dexter info also, and could not find it. I did find a torque table for the wheel studs in a Dexter Operations & Maintenance Service Manual. Note for 1/2” x 20 studs the Maximum torque is 120 ft-lbs. This table supports JDs assumption that Oliver’s recommendations of 120 ft-lbs is too high. I’ve always thought 120 seemed too high, and have been using 100 ft-lbs. I have not had a lug nut loosen yet, I do check them before or after every trip. Unless new info comes to light, I think I will go to 90, which is 25% below the max value.

The wheels on my 2021 are Sumec brand. See pic of sticker that was on my spare. I could not find any info on the web about the recommended torque for these wheels. Let us know if Oliver responds with OEM info.

Good catch, thank you. Poor choice of words, I edited my post.

I believe you have a potentially unsafe situation, the solar circuit is energized, even in the garage. I don’t know if the live circuit is harmful to the controller, but I would not take a chance. . There should be two blade fuses on the roof under the solar panels, one for each panel. If you pull those, you won’t have any current flow. You could also place a tarp over the panels. See screenshot below from the Zamp Controller manual. If your trailer is parked in a garage that can get to periodically, why not just leave the batteries connected? You will still have some small parasitic draw. Flip the AC charger breaker on occasionally and charge the batteries, then turn off.

I assume OTT installing them on all solar packages now. Might be useful if you ever have to disconnect batteries. The solar circuit can be turned off so the circuit is not energized when sun is shining.