Hokieman

Big thanks to Geronimo John! Thanks to his persistence, Oliver changed the torque specs in the 2023 Owners Manual. Unfortunately, they did not bother to amend the previous owners manuals. I’ve been running mine at 100 ft-lbs, never a loose one. I copied and pasted a snip from the 2023 manual (page 88). LUG NUT TORQUE SPECS It is also important to have the wheel nuts checked regularly to make sure they have not loosened during travel. Follow the schedule for regular wheel nut torque checks. If you suspect that wheel nuts have loosened at any time, have them checked and torqued to proper limits immediately (110 ft/lbs).

Quite a puzzle Andrew. I regret I have no solutions yet, but giving it some serious thought. I like your theory, but can’t think of how any significant moisture could get between the upper shells? Anyone else got ideas?

I usually have the bath vent open and the Maxair vent open a few turns. Yes, a lot of heat escapes, but we seldom have condensation. I’ve also not camped in single digit temps yet, relying on folks like you to figure this out 🤔 Your heating system is different than the older models and hopefully much improved.

Not by design on my 2021 John, it’s a closed loop forced air furnace system. Lot’s of posts on this subject. Best to do some checking on your new one or else you’re at risk in a confined space when running LP appliances. That being said, I am delighted the cold weather performance was good for you, and that you are pleased with your trailer. Looking forward to hearing more.

@Going, If are asking me these questions, I cannot say. I kept my Oliver installed Zamp 30A solar controller and Progressive Dynamics PD9260 60A Charger/Converter. I don’t have nor want an inverter. For me, it was a simple swap of batteries, with an addition of a Blue Seas battery switch. Others in this forum have made the conversions you referenced. A diligent search of posts will reveal detailed instructions.

Initially this suggestion by Frank C. seemed like a good option, but Frank measured the compartment and determined it wouldn’t fit. So my amended post would state “ unless you know for sure you need more than 200AH, just start with 2x 100AH, and add a 3rd later if it’s not enough. In my case, I should have stuck with just 2 x 100AH, but the Black Friday sale prices lured me in. 🤑

Are you referring to caulking under the windows inside, or outside? As Mike mentioned above, the windows are already caulked outside. They need to be re-caulked periodically, Oliver has a video and detailed instructions as to when and how to do this. Do not caulk the windows inside. In fact, don’t implement any solution until you have determined the root cause. You previously reported window leaks in a post on August 8th (see link), due to rain. Patriot recommended you remove all your window seals and clean the weep holes, and provided additional info as to how. If the weep holes are plugged they can cause a leak inside, from condensation, just like you describe. Have you removed your window seals, cleaned your window tracks and confirmed that the weep holes are not obstructed? Margaret’s Window Leaks

Consider pushing it up your driveway with a front mounted receiver hitch. A rear camera on the trailer will help. Perhaps you have a friend with a front receiver and you could try it. Front Receiver Hitch

Update: Mike Sharpe at Service got back to my service ticket promptly. He’s going to go out on production line tomorrow morning to see if he can come up with best way to get it straightened out. I’ve found a few flaws with my Oliver, nothing major. The response and solutions from their Service Dept. are outstanding, It’s one of the best companies I’ve ever done business with.

Good suggestion, but I’ve been inside the vanity before, the duct is connected. I did not know about these loops or I would have addressed it then. I’ll wait until Service gets back to me before I dive in there again. I’m hoping I can just pull it gently and uncoil it, then cut off the excess. If it tears underneath the floor, I want it to be Oliver’s problem. When I do open up the vanity again, I’m going to implement this mod. And I will let all know what Service advises. I made this post so that others might want to check their duct work. It’s not in a place you’d see unless you go looking for it. I’m learning to explore all unseen areas when possible. Bathroom Vanity Cubby Mod

The inadequate flow to the bathroom vent in the LE2 has been discussed many times, along with some possible solutions. Just to be sure I did not have a kink, I went poking around under the front dinette seat taking pics in the bilge. I discovered loops of flex duct hose, possibly it may be pinched. Surely this restricts the flow somewhat, but how to straighten it out? I could remove the panel under the bath sink, and try to gently tug on it to get the kinks out. I’m concerned I will tear the hose, and it does not look easy to get to for repair under that floor. I’ve got a Service Ticket in to ask, but I thought I’d check here to see if anyone has noticed a similar problem.

I may have the same old vintage stove John, the Coleman Classic. Unfortunately it will not run on the low pressure gas QD fittings as stock. There may be a way to convert it, but I haven’t been able to find an adapter that fits yet. I use a separate 20 lb propane tank with adapter hose, readily available at Home Depot or Amazon. We also use a Weber Q1000 grill that was easy to convert to low pressure QD with a kit. You could buy a new 2 burner stove that will work on the low pressure QD, there are several threads that discuss what others are using such as this one. Converting Coleman Stove I’ve been waiting for my Coleman to die and replace with something more convenient, but it has sentimental value and may outlast me.

No worries, getting to the back burner is no more trouble than using the back burners on your range at home. We tend to use our left arm, so we don’t bump the shield on the right side, and it’s easier to get to the two control knobs. The splatter shield is built in, keeps a hot pot or skillet from accidentally being pushed onto the bed. That being said, we mostly cook outside, and don’t cook anything inside that has a chance of splatters.

Are you confusing the Service Dept. instructions and looking for spare fuses under that bunk? If so, you won’t find any spares there. There should be 3 yellow fuse holders as Frank shows in his photos, they connect to the 3 levelers. I had one spare in my kit just like Frank showed, and I bought a 2 pack for spares.

I ordered mine on Amazon. I haven’t blown one yet, these are just spares. I think I checked them when I got them, but now I don’t remember. If anyone sees a problem with them, please let me know. 30A Slow Blow Fuses

Apparently Oliver has changed this arrangement up more than once. My trailer does not have any check valves on the black tank, just a simple brass elbow, possibly connected to a spray nozzle. Connected to it is a white pex line that goes up under the sink in the head, attached to a brass vacuum break valve. I think it also has a brass check valve. Then it loops back down to the flush inlet on the side, also a simple brass elbow. Since I have a Natures Head, this line is not used. The heavy brass valves were not secured, and rattled around under the sink. I removed all of it and capped off the elbows, stored it away. While I was under the sink, I easily removed the toilet water supply line and valve, also not used. Now I do not have to winterize that line. I don’t have a pic of the vacuum breaker valve but I can get one if you are interested. This vacuum break arrangement is not shown in the 2021 or 2022 Elite II owners manual plumbing diagram, but it is shown in the Elite diagram.

With Winter coming on, there have been many posts about cold weather storage of Lithionics batteries in newer Oliver trailers with solar packages. Many of us have converted from lead/acid batteries to Battle Born brand LiFePOH. In their storage instructions, they reference extreme conditions, but don’t specify what those temps are. I thought that would be useful info to some who might live or camp in very cold climates, so I called Jacob at BB Tech Support. He explained their batteries can be safely stored down to -10F (internal battery temp), but they should be charged to 100% and disconnected. Below that temp, they recommend warmer storage. The following are specific details from the BB manual about safe operating & charging temperatures: The BMS will not allow a charging or discharging current if the internal temperature of the battery has reached 135°F (57.2°C). The BMS will not allow a charging current under 25°F (-3.9°C) but will continue to discharge down to -4°F (-20°C). NOTE: The BB10012|BB10012H has an operating temperature range of -4°F (-20°C) to 135°F (57.2°C). How to Properly Store Batteries We recommend bringing the Battle Born batteries to a 100% state of charge. Then, disconnect the battery from any loads by removing the negative cable from one battery. On average, the batteries lose approximately 2-3% capacity per month. This is subject to increasing if stored in extreme environmental conditions.

I was reviewing my notes and had some concerns. I called Battleborn Tech Support and had a lengthy discussion with Hugh. I’m glad I did, because he convinced me I had either been misled by what I had researched on the web, or didn’t understand it. Probably both. In any case, I have edited my notes and pasted here to set the record straight. As I mentioned before, I am not an electrical expert, so if any of you that are experts see any discrepancies or additional information, please provide feedback.

No concerns. Oliver does not connect the 7-pin charge wire on Lithium/Solar upgrades. You can re-connect it, but you will have consider whether your TV has a built in relay, or you could install something like a battery isolator or DC-DC converter. See BattleBorn video on the subject. Charging Lithium Batteries with TV Alternator

Regarding the 270A BB battery, according to Frank C. it won’t fit in the battery tray (see post link below). You might want to measure your tray to see if it’s the same. This post also gives opinions on capacitiy recommendations. It seems many folks, including me, have found that 2 BB GC3 100’s is plenty. I now have 3, which in our case, is overkill. But, we don’t have an inverter, microwave, toaster oven, hair dryer, etc, and have not used more than 50A/day. We have the standard 340W Zamp panels and the standard Zamp 30A controller, all works fine. Your power requirements requirements may be significantly different. The advantage of starting off with one or two GC3’s, is that you can easily add a 3rd if needed, unless of course you want to operate your AC off battery power. There are many posts on that topic also. Replacing the Powertron Lead Acid Wet Cell Batteries

Thanks for this informative post. Please tell us about cabin venting at those temps. Which windows or vent fans do you typically open and how much, especially while sleeping? You mentioned MaxAir vent was covered, not used except for cooking. We have camped into the high 20’s, and have been experimenting with cabin venting balance to minimize condensation. We are hoping to improve the cold weather capabilities so these mods and ideas are very beneficial.

Another option is to disconnect the solar panel current and turn off your batteries. LiFePOH batteries can be stored for relatively long periods if put to sleep. Consult your battery manufacturer to confirm reasonable time periods and temperature extremes. I believe most if not all later trailer models have a solar cutoff switch installed, and Lithionics batteries can be turned off. I’m not sure about LifeBlue batteries. Many of us who have upgraded to Battleborn batteries have installed battery disconnect switches. I stored mine for 4 months last winter with temps dipping into mid 20’s, with no significant battery SOC loss. I discussed with Battleborn Tech Support and they advised this was no problem. The following snip is from current Battleborn owners manual… ”How to Properly Store Batteries We recommend bringing the Battle Born batteries to a 100% state of charge. Then, disconnect the battery from any loads by removing the negative cable from one battery. On average, the batteries lose approximately 2-3% capacity per month. This is subject to increasing if stored in extreme environmental conditions.”

Thanks, just edited it out.

I just submitted a Service Ticket requesting a newer decal with 55 psi tire pressure recommendation. I also recommended all previous owners be sent a decal, and a tech services bulletin to explain why. Others might wish to do the same, perhaps OTT will respond to our request. For an informal test, I watched my tire pressures and temps carefully on a recent 10 hour trip, measuring with TPMS, IR gun, and pressure gauge. Mostly 65-70 mph Interstate, fully loaded, but no water in fresh or gray tank. Stopped a few times for gas, lunch & rest stop. Cold tire pressure at start was 45 psi, 65F ambient and tire temp. Sunny day in Georgia and Florida, ambient temps increased to 92F. Tire temps reached 98F max, and tire pressures increased to 51psi max. I’m confident in my family safety running my tires at 45 psi, use your own judgement.

Pardon the minor thread drift, but if you go poking around in the bowels of your trailer, you’ll find lots of sharp things that can get you. For example, I discovered a large tear in my furnace heat supply hose, when I was reaching in to open the the water tank drain valve. I noticed sharp screw heads on the backside of the furnace intake vent and access port, which caused the tears in the hose. I used my Dremel to grind off the sharp screw points and applied RTV sealant. Small tasks that don’t take long to complete, normal trailer fixit stuff.