Hokieman

I’ve got the same Zamp 340W panels on our trailer also, as well as the standard Zamp 30A PWM controller. In a conversation with Zamp Tech Support, they said to expect an average of +/- 70AH/day, conditions varying widely of course. This figure lines up fairly well with @Jstone’s +/-10% (~63AH). I’ve never measured my daily solar input carefully, plan to do that soon just to confirm. I know I can improve that with retrofitting a Victron MPPT controller, but frankly, I have not come up short on stored power when I need it….yet. We do not have an inverter nor a microwave, so no major energy draws. I have an older Honda EU2000 generator if we fall short on power, however we rarely use it, and only to run the AC for a short while. Does anyone have good figures of how much daily power their 340W Zamp panels produce? If so, let us know which controller you use.

There is a Zamp sidewall port on the street side near the battery box. The fused circuit is wired directly to the batteries. It has a limit of maybe 10A, but that’s just a guess, I don’t recall. Only the roof panels go through a controller. You’ll have to buy a small controller, PWM types are very inexpensive. As Seadawg mentioned, the Zamp outlet is an SAE type, reverse polarity. Zamp Port

No. There is a dual AC outlet on the rear curb side. No. I use a portable battery to power my portable fridge, which is usually stowed in my truck. If the battery gets low, I use a Zamp extension cable plugged into the 12v Zamp sidewall port near the battery box. I use the same cable to extend the distance to my portable Zamp Portable Panels. Zamp Cable Extension It’s not difficult to install these components, but I suggest you get your trailer first to figure out if it’s necessary. As you mentioned, you could just run a short AC extension cord to the power post to power your truck fridge, or run a 12v cable to the side port.

Your photos do not show the broken component of the valve you mentioned. Could you try again, and ensure the photo is in focus? Have you tried connecting your grill to the other QD connection at the rear of the trailer?

We’ll be up there occasionally anyway cleaning the panels. It only takes a few minutes to replace the zip ties.

Hello and welcome! I recommend you spend a lot of time following and researching on this forum. You will not find more helpful people or better information anywhere, and it will help you tremendously for future planning. Be patient with the search engine. Don’t be discouraged by posts that seem negative, they are usually constructive advice. Most of the mods and repairs you will read about have nothing to do with Oliver quality or design. They are most often related to RV components common to major brands, just normal trailer fixit stuff.

See this Facebook post from May 2021 for supporting evidence for this mod. If you haven’t already done so, please check and modify the mounting knobs on your solar panels. Having a panel fly off at speed could not only be expensive, it could be a major liability if any following vehicles sustain damage or injuries.

I found the reference, it was on Facebook Oliver Trailer Owners. Apologies are needed however, my memory failed me. The Oliver owners panels did not come off, they said they were just “flopping like fish”. My assumption when I read that in May 2021 was that major damage was imminent, so the knobs needed to be secured. I’ve attached the screenshot from Facebook here, and also on your other thread.

Sure will, if I can find it. I think it was on Oliver Owners Facebook page. My wife uses Facebook, I do not. I’ll ask her to do a search for me to find that post, which must have been a year ago give or take.

My 2021 model brackets are the same. Before I picked it up from factory, I read a post on this forum, or perhaps Facebook, from an owner that had a panel come off due to the fastener knob working loose, did some expensive damage. Then I read about JDs mod. This was the first mod I did, first afternoon after picking up at the campground. It’s quick, easy & cheap insurance. Thanks JD!

Here’s a link to a previous post explaining a good way to support that flimsy self-supporting awning, and some reasons for doing it. Support Poles for Awning I’ve got a set of the Carefree poles from a previous trailer, but haven’t used them yet with my automatic Girard. @Mike & Carol’s sun shade looks like a terrific accessory I’d like to have.

I was probably not clear on this point. I was referring to the tire “stabilized” temps meaning the normal “warm” air pressure increases due to driving vs cold tire inflation. My point was, when I increased & decreased pressures ~15 psi, the tire temps did not increase or decrease significantly. This leads me to conclude the tires are not under-inflated, which will cause temps to increase.

Did they not get back to you? I sent a request from the Cooper website a few days ago. Note the table Eric sent me is from The Tire and Rim Association, Inc. 2017. The Toyo table that @DavePhelps sent above is from The European Tyre and Rim Technical Organisation v2007.3.30. I read the same value @ 45psi on both tables.

I also contacted Eric @ Cooper Tires with a request to provide load rating table. He sent me the attached. Note at 45 psi cold the LT rating equivalent to my Cooper Discoverer HT3 LT 225/75R/16 shows a max load rating of 1630 lbs per tire. In my case, this is more weight than I typically travel with. Cooper Contact Info: Eric Consumer Relations Specialist Cooper Tire and Rubber Company 1-800-854-6288 Monday-Friday 8:00am-5:00pm EST

I think you misunderstood this post. No bolts were buggered or replaced, just tightened. 🙂

My wife found the following post on “Oliver Trailer Owners” Facebook page 2 days ago. Seems like good feedback to your questions. “Ann Barklow 8/18/2022: We have almost completed our cross country trip. We left on June 28 from South Carolina all the way to Bainbridge Island, WA and then back to South Carolina. We will arrive home this Sunday after four days in Tennessee. We had reservations all the way to Washington and on the way home we did not. Even though there is great advantages to having reservations we both enjoyed the spontaneity of traveling without. We never had trouble getting in anywhere and on weekends we did call a day in advance to make one just in case. One day we set out driving through Bighorn mountains in WY and even though we had planned at least six hours of driving we only made it an hour and a half and found an amazing campground and stayed three days. One camp ground we found later on was apparently abandoned so we had it to ourselves and it was beautiful. A little eerie and I wouldn’t have stayed there alone but it was an adventure. So my research is over and though we will still reserve sites we definitely liked it without better. Hull 1010 with over 8,000 towed miles since February.”

Reminder that replying to the OP is useful, however it is not responding to the poll. Please participate in the poll by checking the box and submitting your vote. It will be useful to all if we can see where we are, and the results might be beneficial to Oliver, if we can get enough data points. The placard decal on 2021 Hull 797 is exactly the same as JD’s 2017. I’ve already voted above, but I run 45psi, check frequently with digital temp gun. I have a TPMS. I have tested the tire pressure several times by running them up to 60 psi for awhile on the highway, measuring temps, then airing down to 45, and checking temps again at next rest stop. No noticeable temp increases. If you are reluctant to reduce psi this low, you could try this test yourself. If your tires do not increase in temperature, your data confirms you have made the right choice. And more importantly (as JD pointed out), it is in accordance with the tire OEM. Based on JD’s reported good performance, I’m going to try lowering to 42 psi. Running this low may not be for everyone, as we all run at different weights, speeds, and road conditions.

One of my hose fittings came unscrewed during a campsite setup. I didn’t have the tool on hand so I hand tightened as best I could. I found the 2018 post and ordered this socket on Amazon (same as recommended by @ScubaRX above). Water hose connection socket Another use for the Oliver supplied 1/2” breaker bar is a socket for removing the water heater anode from the standard Suburban water heater. Water heater anode socket

The base price for my 2021 Elite 2 was $57,500, ordered September 2020. I made a list of the LE2 base prices that folks have posted in this thread. 2017 $48,500 2018 $54,100 2019 $53,900 2020 $55,000 2021 $57,500 2022 $65,000 2023 $73,500 Unfortunately, you cannot use these base prices alone to do a cost increase analysis. As John D pointed out, there were many popular optional features in previous models, that were included in the base price as standard in subsequent years. If you wanted to do a good analysis, you’d have to dissect the build sheet on all model years and factor it into the cost. I’m happy with my decision to buy an Oliver.

Thank you Steph & Dud! I really appreciate posts like this one, because it gives me an opportunity to figure out a better solution before I experience a similar problem. I’m disappointed that it is necessary, but it comes with owning any RV (or boat), even an Oliver. John Davies mentioned the shortcomings of AC Romex and the residential junction boxes in a recent post. This prompted me to make a note on my task list to inspect all AC wiring that is accessible, and improve the installations if feasible. This post confirms that concern. I did a quick check on RV best practices and came up with a good article and reference to marine codes. 120V Wiring for Campers WHAT Type OF WIRE IS NEEDED FOR 120V OUTLETS In a Camper? ALL wire in a camper must be stranded wire. This includes circuits for 120V outlets. Wires in a camper must be stranded wire because solid core wire (like the Romex used in the walls of your house) will, when subjected to the vibrations of rattling down the road, will work harden and break over time. For this reason, solid core wire like Romex is EXPLICITLY forbidden in marine applications (boats) by ABYC E-11.

We have left our awning seal installed for same reasons. It rains often in the Southeast, daily this time of year. My trailer has drain channels in the awning brackets, so not too much stuff collects up there. I get up top periodically to clean the solar panels anyway, so no problem cleaning the ditch created by the awning. The new J-channel strip Oliver is using now looks like it might be an improvement. I look forward to reading some feedback on how well it works.

My trailer is in storage about 500 miles from home, so I can’t provide any detail pics until I get back to it in a few months. I did find a few pics that might help. I installed this while enroute on a camping trip, it was easy. Initially I got common plated steel bolts at the nearest Home Depot, they didn’t have them in s/s in the correct lengths. I ordered the s/s locknuts, bolts and washers and replaced later.

This link discusses some tote carry options. If you do a search in this forum, you’ll find several threads that show methods for carrying these totes, including strapped to top of storage box in front carry tray.

To be more specific, there are 4 bolts per upright support, a total of 8. The 1” square tube upright supports come with two 1/4” steel backing plates, with 4 holes in each. I insulated the painted steel uprights from the aluminum storage tray with rubber strips. I do not have a pic that shows the attachment details, will get some when I can if anyone is interested. There is enough room left in the tray to carry the chocks & levelers, which is just about all the weight I want to carry. We carry the gray water tote nearly empty. I squeeze some Calgon in there with a bit of water to slosh around while towing, so the tote stays relatively fresh smelling.

Another spec will confirm you need the Andersen WDH. See the table John Davies posted earlier. It states the Maximum Tongue Weight capacity for a Titan XD hitch is 500lbs (no WDH). Your vehicle might be different, but probably not. That spec is not on the door stickers, it may be in your owners manual. The Oliver LE2 Tongue Weight is 490 lbs, empty & parked, without the front basket. Therefore, you will likely be over capacity without the Andersen WDH. If you are ever involved in a crash (your fault or not) your insurance contract could be voided, because by law you must adhere to OEM towing specifications.