-
Posts
9,804 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
351
Everything posted by SeaDawg
-
I agree. The more people who ask, the more likely Oliver is to include the 12v Danfoss/secop as an option. Our Indel/truckfridge has been an awesome replacement. . As far as an Elite I first a tall person, it could be problematic. Especially the bathroom. The bed is long enough, but it's more a full than a queen size. Sherry
-
I'm wondering about that, too. I didn't see that exclusion on Battleborn, or Dakota. Of course, we don't know if there's a separate agreement. Yet. Btw, has anyone used, or seen much for reviews, on Dakota lifepo4 batteries? Considerably less than Battleborn, Lifeblue, relion, renogy, etc, especially if you buy 2 or 4. Made in North Dakota. 11 year warranty. I'm finding most Dakota reviews are for batteries sized for fish finders, ebikes, and trolling motors. Sherry
-
That really depends on how much stuff you have to carry for a pleasant trip, and, for working remotely. My husband and I removed the microwave in our older Elite I a year or so ago when we installed a 12v danfoss/secop fridge. The cabinet gives us a nice food storage area. Since then, I often have a few empty cabinets in the trailer when we travel, and the Elite I has far less storage than the II. Sherry
-
Really beautiful! Thanks for the photos! Sherry
-
Dometic sells a number of more innovative, more quiet products in markets outside North America. Their Freshlight ac has an integrated skylight, with shade, ac, and a heat pump. Not available here. Pricey in Europe. I can only hope the US will see some more innovative ac products in the near future. Most of what is available here is noisy and inefficient, imo. I'd love to see a danfoss/secop 12 volt unit, like some trucks have. Or even some of the more innovative, less power hungry units sold in Europe and Australia, like the Dometic Freshjet and Harrier. I wouldn't be surprised to see Oliver offer the Truma Combi someday, if enough people ask for it, since they've been installing the Truma water heater for years, as an option. From what I've read, it's a really nice system. You're the first person that I can recall, on this board, with experience with it. Unfortunately, Truma won't support warranty issues on a non-OEM install of a Combi. There are some units floating around through secondary sources (probably from the Hymer factory shutdown?), but you're on your own if you buy and install aftermarket. Truma also recently started selling a "quiet" more traditional furnace in the US, the Varioheat. I talked to our local Truma office on Lakeland about it last year. A nice feature is a very quiet sleep mode. Sherry
-
Solar panels and mppt controllers definitely trump starboard, imo. Though each of them cost a lot more. ππΏπ
-
Thanks, Hardrock. Those of us who camp on federal lands know many of the need maintenance. Sherry
-
The article did specify nontaxpayer funds for the 9.5 billion. I don't know what that means. Concessionaire fees that go elsewhere? I'm not sure. I suspect we'll see increased use of national parks this year, due to the public feeling that outdoors is the safer place to be with the Corona virus specter hovering. Some of them do need significant upgrades. We've all seen that, who have camped in some of them. I see a possibility for this conversation to go sideways, into the political realm. It isn't there now, but let's be measured and thoughtful in responses. I'd like to see the conversation continue. Sans politics, of course. Sherry
-
To earn the tax credit, my understanding is that you have to include solar (original or additional. ) So, that's a consideration, as well, when determining whether to do the package up front, or upgrade batteries later. At least, that's what I read. Batteries later, without additional solar, are not eligible.
-
I'm certain they'll honor your choices, as you already have a contract. π Sherry
- 3 replies
-
- decor
- upholstery
-
(and 2 more)
Tagged with:
-
I might have used goo gone, rather than goopoff. I keep both around. I keep looking at your photos, and I find it hard to believe that that could be tannin. It looks too even and uniform. I'd still guess chemical reaction, or uv, or even more likely, just a bad batch of sealant. Was it clear, or white, originally? It does look shiny like silicone, though perhaps not 100 per cent silicone?
-
Practical sailor recommends a product called ReMov, which isn't likely in your garage. (Not in mine, either.) After getting everything off that I could mechanically, I'd try mineral spirits or GoopOff on any bits remaining, then wipe it down again with mineral spirits or Goopoff, followed by denatured alcohol. Silicone loves to get down into the pores. I've heard of using kerosene in place of mineral spirits, but we don't typically have that around either.
-
FYI, This is what someone on fb posted as current sealant used by Oliver, who had spoken to Richie. https://www.americansealantsinc.com/asi-335-neutral-cure-silicone-sealantadhesive/ Sherry
-
That looks awful! I know some sealants don't like butyl. I'd love to know what they used, so that I never buy any. We'll probably never know, though. My best guess, someone grabbed a gun loaded with an interior bathroom caulk, without uv protection. 3m 4200 will turn yellow quickly, because it has no uv. Hope it's not that, as it's much harder to remove than silicone. I don't think we've ever used a white butyl (just grey), so I can't speak from personal experience, there, either. I saw a post on Facebook about the silicone Oliver is currently using. I'll see if I find any complaints elsewhere about yellowing. I'm really sorry for you. It's very noticeable, and unattractive. Sherry
-
Ours talk to each other, all over the house. It's maddening. Really. During hurricane Irma, one battery apparently failed. Every alarm announced "low battery. " it was a nightmare.
-
When we replace ours (again) I'll probably look for separate rvia (maybe) approved co, smoke, and lp. Co mingles with air, so its location isn't as big a thing as you might think. Lp needs to be low, as LP is denser than air and sinks. Smoke alarm high. Co, well, as far away from appliances as possible. That's not easy in a compact trailer. Rv manufacturers, including Oliver, are stuck with rvia guidelines on the items they choose. Not all devices are rvia approved. 12 years on, I can make and live with my choices. Edit to add: I'm not endorsing any particular brand here, nor do I suggest removing safety devices. I see stories like this too often. A properly functioning co detector would have saved these 3 lives. https://amp.desmoinesregister.com/amp/2997719001 Sherry
-
This is a question where items evolve, over time. Rather than crowdsourcing, asking your sales rep for current info, is probably best. Our older 2008s had 3 110 outlets, I think. Plus one outside. TV, kitchen, under the small dinette bench. Outside outlet under the awning, under waterproof cover. Oops, 4, if you had a microwave. As we did, originallly. I'm sure things have probaly changed in 12+ years. Sherry
-
We deliver new rvs to Alaska most years. Not this year, due to travel restrictions through Canada. Occasionally, things that work at checkout, don't always work a day or two later. It stinks, but we have learned to deal with it. It's the nature of the rv equipment beast. Stuff does happen. I totally understand your disappointment. Yes, you probably should have returned to Hohenwald when you were close, but that's water under the dam. Too late. Now, you're in the truma zone, not the Oliver zone, geographically. Truma will take care of you, I'm sure. Since you have documented your issue. Sherry
-
I don't know if Oliver still uses the same graphics company, but I'm really happy with ours, 12+ years out. A few snags from tree branches (black graphics, one color), no noticeable fading. When in doubt, better to add later than delete later. Imo Sherry
-
John & Nancy, congratulations! We'll all be looking forward to your photos. Sherry
-
What material is this white electrical mounting board?
SeaDawg replied to John E Davies's topic in Ollie Modifications
Mossey, I'm not opposed to spending the $ either, if there's a clear advantage. Like you, we're more likely to reuse scrap lumber or on hand materials if it suits the purpose. If there's a true advantage long term, well, then, I can open the wallet and let the moths go free. π When Paul and his friend wanted Starboard for a couple projects on our boat, I remember being shocked at the prices I found, even buying cutoffs. I don't remember the exact price, as it was 4 years ago. But, for what we were working on, it was the best available material. We needed the uv protection and the inherent waterproofing, plus the ability to use normal woodworking tools was great. No adhesives involved. I was wondering, honestly, what was the advantage, in this particular case, given the expense, and other considerations, when John wanted a material he could mount with epoxy, which isn't exactly the case with Starboard. There is indeed a lot of carryover in marine materials and fixtures from our boat to the Oliver. Honestly, our long term experience with a fiberglass hull is one of the reasons we bought the trailer in the first place. Sherry -
π
-
What material is this white electrical mounting board?
SeaDawg replied to John E Davies's topic in Ollie Modifications
I'm curious, though, why all of you want to use a plastic material like Starboard, in an interior area. Starboard is really expensive, twice the weight of plywood, and requires special (read expensive, not found normally in our garage, often two part heat fusing plastic welds) adhesives, usually backed up by mechanical fasteners . Like any other plastic, it expands a bit with heat. Which might make me a bit nervous about screws in some applications. Starboard's big claim to fame is uv resistance in a marine environment. And, that in can be worked easily with woodworking tools. We've used it in a number of places on our boat in exposed areas for mounting replacement gauges and lights. Places where in our younger days we might have used solid teak. We don't want the teak maintenance any more than we already have, and teak is pretty much unavailable or equally expensive, so starboard fits that bill. As a matter of fact, it's simply wonderful. In unexposed areas in the trailer, however, we've used plywood and wood blocks epoxied to the fiberglass to mount our 12v danfoss/ secop fridge, and fasten drawer glides, and a few places in creating my microwave replacement storage cabinet. I know Oliver doesn't like to use (ply)wood, but I don't have any problem with it in interior spaces that aren't exposed to water. It's lighter, cheaper, holds fasteners well, easily bonded with epoxy as mounting blocks, etc. Sherry -
Take heart, though. Even though you didn't go back to Hohenwald, I'm sure Truma stands behind its product, like most of the notable TV accessory and appliance manufacturers. Most local businesses here have extended returns, and warranties, if they were unable to respond due to the covid 19 shutdowns. I'd advise you to continue to communicate with Truma. Were it me, I'd use email, so that I had a paper(less) trail. I'm assuming you are still under Truma warranty? Sherry
-
What material is this white electrical mounting board?
SeaDawg replied to John E Davies's topic in Ollie Modifications
Mossey, I've purchased some smaller (though not that small) cutoff pieces of King starboard at Farco on 19 and 118th in Clearwater. There's probably a supplier in Tampa as well. I think the thickest guage is about 1.5 inches. Btw, King Plastics is a Florida company. (NorthPort) Sherry
