SeaDawg

Practical sailor recommends a product called ReMov, which isn't likely in your garage. (Not in mine, either.) After getting everything off that I could mechanically, I'd try mineral spirits or GoopOff on any bits remaining, then wipe it down again with mineral spirits or Goopoff, followed by denatured alcohol. Silicone loves to get down into the pores. I've heard of using kerosene in place of mineral spirits, but we don't typically have that around either.

FYI, This is what someone on fb posted as current sealant used by Oliver, who had spoken to Richie. https://www.americansealantsinc.com/asi-335-neutral-cure-silicone-sealantadhesive/ Sherry

That looks awful! I know some sealants don't like butyl. I'd love to know what they used, so that I never buy any. We'll probably never know, though. My best guess, someone grabbed a gun loaded with an interior bathroom caulk, without uv protection. 3m 4200 will turn yellow quickly, because it has no uv. Hope it's not that, as it's much harder to remove than silicone. I don't think we've ever used a white butyl (just grey), so I can't speak from personal experience, there, either. I saw a post on Facebook about the silicone Oliver is currently using. I'll see if I find any complaints elsewhere about yellowing. I'm really sorry for you. It's very noticeable, and unattractive. Sherry

Ours talk to each other, all over the house. It's maddening. Really. During hurricane Irma, one battery apparently failed. Every alarm announced "low battery. " it was a nightmare.

When we replace ours (again) I'll probably look for separate rvia (maybe) approved co, smoke, and lp. Co mingles with air, so its location isn't as big a thing as you might think. Lp needs to be low, as LP is denser than air and sinks. Smoke alarm high. Co, well, as far away from appliances as possible. That's not easy in a compact trailer. Rv manufacturers, including Oliver, are stuck with rvia guidelines on the items they choose. Not all devices are rvia approved. 12 years on, I can make and live with my choices. Edit to add: I'm not endorsing any particular brand here, nor do I suggest removing safety devices. I see stories like this too often. A properly functioning co detector would have saved these 3 lives. https://amp.desmoinesregister.com/amp/2997719001 Sherry

This is a question where items evolve, over time. Rather than crowdsourcing, asking your sales rep for current info, is probably best. Our older 2008s had 3 110 outlets, I think. Plus one outside. TV, kitchen, under the small dinette bench. Outside outlet under the awning, under waterproof cover. Oops, 4, if you had a microwave. As we did, originallly. I'm sure things have probaly changed in 12+ years. Sherry

We deliver new rvs to Alaska most years. Not this year, due to travel restrictions through Canada. Occasionally, things that work at checkout, don't always work a day or two later. It stinks, but we have learned to deal with it. It's the nature of the rv equipment beast. Stuff does happen. I totally understand your disappointment. Yes, you probably should have returned to Hohenwald when you were close, but that's water under the dam. Too late. Now, you're in the truma zone, not the Oliver zone, geographically. Truma will take care of you, I'm sure. Since you have documented your issue. Sherry

I don't know if Oliver still uses the same graphics company, but I'm really happy with ours, 12+ years out. A few snags from tree branches (black graphics, one color), no noticeable fading. When in doubt, better to add later than delete later. Imo Sherry

John & Nancy, congratulations! We'll all be looking forward to your photos. Sherry

Mossey, I'm not opposed to spending the $ either, if there's a clear advantage. Like you, we're more likely to reuse scrap lumber or on hand materials if it suits the purpose. If there's a true advantage long term, well, then, I can open the wallet and let the moths go free. 😁 When Paul and his friend wanted Starboard for a couple projects on our boat, I remember being shocked at the prices I found, even buying cutoffs. I don't remember the exact price, as it was 4 years ago. But, for what we were working on, it was the best available material. We needed the uv protection and the inherent waterproofing, plus the ability to use normal woodworking tools was great. No adhesives involved. I was wondering, honestly, what was the advantage, in this particular case, given the expense, and other considerations, when John wanted a material he could mount with epoxy, which isn't exactly the case with Starboard. There is indeed a lot of carryover in marine materials and fixtures from our boat to the Oliver. Honestly, our long term experience with a fiberglass hull is one of the reasons we bought the trailer in the first place. Sherry

😁

I'm curious, though, why all of you want to use a plastic material like Starboard, in an interior area. Starboard is really expensive, twice the weight of plywood, and requires special (read expensive, not found normally in our garage, often two part heat fusing plastic welds) adhesives, usually backed up by mechanical fasteners . Like any other plastic, it expands a bit with heat. Which might make me a bit nervous about screws in some applications. Starboard's big claim to fame is uv resistance in a marine environment. And, that in can be worked easily with woodworking tools. We've used it in a number of places on our boat in exposed areas for mounting replacement gauges and lights. Places where in our younger days we might have used solid teak. We don't want the teak maintenance any more than we already have, and teak is pretty much unavailable or equally expensive, so starboard fits that bill. As a matter of fact, it's simply wonderful. In unexposed areas in the trailer, however, we've used plywood and wood blocks epoxied to the fiberglass to mount our 12v danfoss/ secop fridge, and fasten drawer glides, and a few places in creating my microwave replacement storage cabinet. I know Oliver doesn't like to use (ply)wood, but I don't have any problem with it in interior spaces that aren't exposed to water. It's lighter, cheaper, holds fasteners well, easily bonded with epoxy as mounting blocks, etc. Sherry

Take heart, though. Even though you didn't go back to Hohenwald, I'm sure Truma stands behind its product, like most of the notable TV accessory and appliance manufacturers. Most local businesses here have extended returns, and warranties, if they were unable to respond due to the covid 19 shutdowns. I'd advise you to continue to communicate with Truma. Were it me, I'd use email, so that I had a paper(less) trail. I'm assuming you are still under Truma warranty? Sherry

Mossey, I've purchased some smaller (though not that small) cutoff pieces of King starboard at Farco on 19 and 118th in Clearwater. There's probably a supplier in Tampa as well. I think the thickest guage is about 1.5 inches. Btw, King Plastics is a Florida company. (NorthPort) Sherry

Several members have converted their original configuration. Andrew K talks about changing his out to a modified twin in this thread, with many photos. A 2019 post, with links to several older posts: Brief how to discussion, here: Sherry

How did mice get into the basement of a van? Was there a hole somewhere? That's usually an issue I hear about in Elkhart built fabric bottom/ thin sheathed bottom rvs . In our 2008, the power cord is on a reel, and there's an opening that a mouse could possibly fit in, if the cord is out . (Mice can theoretically squeeze thru a dime sized hole.) Everyone I know of, with this setup , stuffs the hole with a rag or foam. Not an issue for us, as we almost never have power hookup, but, if I do, you can bet I stuff the hole. One friend made a special wooden plug. Not a big deal for you, as the new Ollies have a marine cord setup. No hole. Sherry

I'd have to agree with John. I think we used 4000 the last time we did the light. It's not an easy product to use for people unaccustomed to sealing. And, it's expensive in the small tubes. But in sealants, you often get what you pay for. It's uv resistant, remains flexible for a long time (our hulls do have flex as they travel, just like boats), and is mildew resistant. Whatever you choose, make sure old caulk and residue is removed mechanically (scraping, peeling), then chemically (I'd probably do mineral spirits or goo gone first, then denatured alcohol or acetone as a cleaner) so the pores are clean. Sealants are only as good as the prep. Though we used a 3m product last time, I may look at a Sika product next time. I've used a lot of sika products building and maintaining our home, and I really like them. Unfortunately, they're not available in small tubes like 3m. 🤔 Another note, don't expect opened tubes of sealant to be good six months later, even if you cap them. That's why the little tubes are popular. Exposure to air degrades effectiveness for most sealants. They start to "cure" in the tube. Buy the size you need, or be prepared to discard the remainder. And, check whatever you buy for expiry date. I'm not a big silicon fan, but it's generally a much easier product to work with and remove later for renewal than the 3m adhesive sealants . My husband is a fan of silicon products, so, we have this discussion from time to time.😁 Anyway, here's some info from Practical Sailor, one of my most trusted sources for all things fiberglass. Enjoy. https://www.practical-sailor.com/boat-maintenance/caulks-versus-mildew Sherry PS thank goodness you have a grandson who is willing and able to help you. That is so sweet. God bless him. S

5200 is great if you know you will never, ever have to remove it. It can't be removed mechanically without ruining something ( not just your day). One or both parts will break, bend, or deform . Chemical removal is possible, and tedious. There used to be a joke in the marine world that you could pick up your boat by any part fastened and sealed with 5200, as long as the part was strong enough. 3m 4200 is easier to remove, but not simple, either. I don't know what sealant is under what your grandson applied, but if it's silicone, it needs to be removed, (his and the original), and cleaned, to allow a new sealant to adhere. As wonderful as silicone is, it doesn't like to adhere to itself . Sherry

Nan, 5200 is more of a very powerful adhesive than sealant, and extremely difficult to remove if you ever need to. (We've had to remove several items on our boat bonded with 5200, and it's a very difficult and time consuming process.) What are you trying to do? If you're looking for a sealant, (caulk) you need to be looking at another choice.

Yes, it's deep enough for most shoes and slippers, but not boots. I've thought about lining the drawer with a small thin boot tray with a rim. As of yet, it only holds a small broom and dustpan, and a swiffer type duster.

Nan, do you watch a lot of tv? Do you camp often without hookups? A 110 tv is really inexpensive at most big box stores, if you usually have power.

Are you going to Australia? We had to postpone our plans for third trip because of Covid restrictions. If you're going there, let me know. Our favorite camping outside the US and the Yukon. Sherry

You could drive it with just the tow vehicle ahead of time, without the trailer, to allay concerns. I think the camp host said next year was the year for repairs to the approach road. I know we'd do it. But we have the shorter Elite I, a 4x 4 truck, and some experience with crappy upward roads. And, we have patience. Sherry

That's too funny. I was just in the spoonflower site looking for it. 😄

Nancy K., I love the fabric you chose for the pillow. Reminds me of a vintage barkcloth. Would you mind sharing your source? Sherry