SeaDawg

You "could" change them out with switched puck units (non-dimmable) like the older Oliver Elites, but it would get pricey. I have a couple spares left from the old days, but they're really expensive now. I'm seeing 24 to 35 bucks for a single marine grade 12 v switched puck light in chrome. They used to be $8 or so each. Back in the day...

Well, for some of us, it's useful. Lol.

We've owned and maintained our 2008 #12 since new, and 150k. I know there's another 2008 out there with similar miles. People are truly amazed at how good it looks, in its 16th season. More importantly, it still tows great. Like others, we've done some mods, upgrades, and replacement components over the many years (fridge, water pump, added 200 watts of solar, then upgraded to 400 watts plus 200 portable, etc. ) It's been a great trailer, and doesn't owe us a dime. So many great memories!

@topgun2, I wonder if j channel from frp board (dairy board) from home depot or lowes would work? It's relatively thin, and inexpensive.

Scroll down partway through. https://olivertraveltrailers.com/forums/topic/1940-reflectix-window-and-vent-trick/#comment-16611

They still promptly answer questions on my 2008. Wonderful service.

We have a small group here this weekend, and celebrated a beautiful morning in the mountains with a campfire breakfast. Waffles with Blueberries, link sausages, and fruit.

@Sully are still on a long road trip in Canada with their Audi q7 and Elite2 A search on Touareg brought up 4 pages of posts. https://olivertraveltrailers.com/forums/search/?&q=Touareg&search_and_or=or

@Steve Morris, I so rarely find the TV series, or movies, measure up to the books. I get it.

@Hull 812,,I would open a service ticket, and ask for advice. What troubleshooting have you done to lead you to the eyebrow board? What actually happens when you try to start your Norcold? Does it run on 110, but not gas? Neither? Battery level? Are you plugged into 110, or boondocking, running on gas? "Not working" doesn't really help us offer advice, though I know it's frustrating. We need a little more info, to offer even a little bit of advice. Have you checked the pigtail, if running on 110, to make sure it has not worked loose,? What shows on your display if anything? Any error code? Photos would definitely help.

Well, a great number of us have no curtain. Probably more important with a composting toilet.

I've seen rhe Andersen levelers in action, and honestly, if I were new to towing and leveling, they'd be in the kit. I do think they're pretty awesome

The old school rule is 80 per cent of tow capacity. That would put you around 6100 pounds. Keep your trailer weight down, and especially, watch the tongue weight and balance. And, tow vehicle weight capacity. There are many more factors. Your towing experience, is one,,and probably foremost.

For chocks, I'm a huge fan of the relatively cheap but very effective (and heavy) Harbor Freight rubber chocks, for all our trailers. No experience with x chocks, as we have a single axle 2008 E1. Jack blocks for us have always been lumber cutoffs, salvaged from projects. They're heavier to carry around than plastic, but stackable, biodegradable, and burnable, if necessary, at end of life.

Yes, I would.

Quite true. Wood/lumber goes up and down. Steel, aluminum, gypsum and cement are all so much higher than several years ago, when we built a barn in NC. One of my brothers sells pole barns. It's a battle keeping "current " with pricing. Prices locally are all over the place. One lumber yard a couple days ago quoted me $18.50 a stick for 2 x 6 x 12 southern yellow pine. I wound up paying $12 a stick, for nice, prime grade, syp, at a different yard. (We picked up.) With the Canadian fires, I think all builders are questioning what the prices will do in a few months. It's a roll of the dice.

Also, after the rv center installed the new truma, did they supply you with results of a new pressure test?

Is your propane system shut off at the tanks? How many days? Propane is heavier than air, so it can "hang around," but several days, with a fan going, should probably clear everything. And, you'd likely smell that odor that you smelled, before repairs. When you get the sniffer, check the interstitial space between the hulls, as well. Just to be sure. The clamshell fittings should exhaust lp, but just check. You definitely had a leak somewhere, from your early posts.

You can check the composting toilet. I don't have one in the trailer, but I have one in the barn. Make sure it's venting properly.

Just for grins, try cleaning your lp sensors. Vacuum the face. Wipe it off with a microfiber cloth, after. If your propane tanks are shut off, you should not be getting alarms. Do you travel with a pet? Does it sleep near the alarm? Their "farts" can set off the alarm, as well.

If you have verizon phone service, you can get free Hulu (with ads) on their Disney pack. I have it. Haven't used it.

And, that was a wise thing to do.

If your propane tanks were truly turned off, and no use for several days, I would assume an addtional issue with a faulty lp alarm system. If I were camping in ND , through October, I'd definitely want my propane, and heat. Propane alarms are supposed to be good for five years, max, but many don't make it that long. I'd replace it. Did you smell any propane, this time?

Microfiber cloths and pads. By hand. Wax on/wax off. Really good for upper arm exercise. Lol.

@dewdev, and others, we use the west marine pink soap because it's economical (in proper concentration), it doesn't strip wax (in proper concentration), it's biodegradable and safe to use for boats in the water, and it has worked for us for a very long time. Any quality boat soap, labeled to not strip the wax you worked so darned hard to apply, is fine, imo. Don't be a bad bartender/boat tender and "overpour." The best soaps become harsh in high concentration. And, don't use anything labeled "degreaser" like dawn, awesome, etc., unless you plan to rinse, rinse, rinse, and rinse again... maybe even neutralize with a mild base solution, and then spend hours applying layers of wax to replace what you've lost. Washing frequently, with a clean soft bristle brush, like @dewdev stated, is the key. You can't expect perfect results if you wash once a year, with any product. (Use an extra bucket with just water to rinse the brush, as you go. You'll be amazed at the grime released. That grime would otherwise scrub your wax and gelcoat.) Any good wax, with uv protection built in is good. Liquid waxes tend to leave a thinner layer of protection, requiring more frequent application, or multiple layers to build up. Paste waxes are more work. Higher carnuba content sinks more "into the tiny pores" of gelcoat, for a better seal, imo. The hybrid waxes with high carnuba,,and polywhatevers, are a win win. The marvels of modern chemistry. Routine cleaning, and waxing, is really the key. Imo.