SeaDawg

Same with our locks at home, though they give a beep sequence, and a light, when battery is starting to get low. We get 3 or 4 more uses before it can't get enough power to throw.

Does this happen if you use the "stay logged in" choice?

What I've read, so far, is they can "shoot" the spores and clinging tar up to 20 ft or more. Yikes. Hence, the artillery name. Good to note,, for everyone. Our trailer is parked on turf blocks and shell. Any mulch in our yard is cypress, and some distance from the trailer. This is super sad. Several posters in articles I read said to work away from home or away from mulch beds. This looks like a major pita. Not common here in sw Florida, probably because heat and sun kills the fungus that generates the spore pellets. Like I said, I have no prior knowledge or experience with this issue. Common mildew is easy , relatively, to remove. This crap can live on in the pores,,from what I've read, and bloom again. One guy said it lives on even old wax. Yikes.

We've had this issue before. Usually with Apple devices. @Rivernerd, are you using a vpn?

Looks like the sun is shining on those spots in the photos. Could you add a few more, when the sun is lower in the sky? What products have you been using, and how frequently? Where in the country are you, and do you use a cover? Stored inside or outside? I'm sorry for your problem. Maybe some more info can help.

A few threads I've read: https://rayhaluchinc.com/getting-rid-of-artillery-fungus/ https://www.practical-sailor.com/blog/homemade-mildew-preventers-that-really-work https://www.practical-sailor.com/boat-maintenance/mildew-treatments-and-stain-removers https://www.cruisersforum.com/forums/f55/black-spots-all-over-boat-in-marina-do-i-have-any-recourse-how-to-clean-207745-3.html https://www.thehulltruth.com/northeast/97554-artillery-fungus.html https://continuouswave.com/ubb/Forum3/HTML/014222.html https://www.fiberglassrv.com/forums/f51/artillery-fungus-spots-48728.html Note: my trusted source, practical sailor, revealed no specific instructions for artillery fungus. Unfortunately.

These guys have detailed and coated several Olivers, including scubarx"s #50, so we have a bit of history. We do not allow spam posts, as you all know, and diligently work to remove and prevent them. For me, I'm not sure I'd spend the money for 24 months' protection, but that's up to the individual. I have no idea what mobile detailing charges for twice yearly waxing. This may be very competitive. Idk. There's a lot of work that goes into prep. I know that for sure. My neighbor had his boat ceramic coated, and the prep took far longer than the coating.

If these are artillery spores, which I'd frankly never heard of til your thread, you're in for a lot of work. And, I'm sorry. I've looked at literally a dozen websites, and all of them note that they're really tough to remove, especially if they've been allowed to remain a long time. A few more home remedies to soften or remove the casings mentioned are cheap mouthwash (especially mint), murphys oil soap, Mr clean sponges, cooking oil, or dollar store awesome cleaner. (I think awesome is a bit aggressive, especially if not reduced.) Some people found success with borax, or tsp, solution in hot water, which may actually kill the tiny spores left behind in the pores. (Caustic solutions. ) general conclusion is bleach solutions only remove stain, and don't kill the spores. I'd try any (maybe all) of the methods first, before I buffed out the whole trailer.

We used to have a different color designation for vendors, but I don't know if that's still available. I'll ask. All Oliver employees show up in green. Mods blue. Admins red. Members black, or bold black, if they've been around long enough. Fwiw, Colin clearly identified himself as a vendor, so definitely being careful to not break any rules. I appreciate the pricing info, as I'm sure others do. It's an expensive process, but clearly something many are interested in. An additional subforum is a consideration, but it's so infrequent, I'm not totally sure of the value.

I personally think the "drain to 10.5" is a ridiculous and very harmful Idea. Asking for trouble, as the battery is pretty much dead at 10.5. The drop on the seelevel from 12.7 to 12.5 is expected, under load. A good battery will bounce back, not under load in 20 to 30 minutes. The load applied lowers the voltage numbers, and the furnace fan is a big load.

As I've said many times, the wrong tools in the hands of inexperienced people can cause more problems than they solve. We have 40+ years in maintaining fiberglass boats and trailers. I always look to practical sailor for guidance and new tested and vetted products. I'm sure you are very careful in reading directions, and proper use, as we are. Not everyone is, which is why, I suspect, @dewdev issued his warning. The article you referenced was for heavily oxidized (read neglected) hulls. Compounds and a power buffer are a strong combo. It needs to be done properly, carefully, and only when necessary, as you said, @Jim_Oker

With all due respect, and you didn't have prior knowledge, he has trojan t105 batteries, designed for golf carts and rvs, etc. Dedicated deep cycle, not starter batteries. Thicker plates, longer life, deeper discharge. 7 years isn't a bad run. Might be better, but not bad at all. Could be worse, too. I'm a bit confused, though. 12. 7 is pretty much full, shouldn't cut off the furnace. Mine runs til much lower, maybe 12.2? Can't remember, as we don't normally let batteries run that low. (That's how we depleted the life of first lead acid set, in less than a year. 😒. I had to fly out for a family emergency, my husband didn't have my help in monitoring battery status, and it was cold, furnace running, no solar then, etc. Toast.) But, if batteries are at end of life, they'll show 12.7, then drop rapidly under load, such as the fan running, to the point where the furnace won't light off. Like @mossemi suggested. We routinely get at least 5 years, often more, from batteries. Even with our heavy use.

My dometic dinosaur unot was well over a decade old, but still (loudly) worked. The exterior shroud was mostly tape, cracked in so many places. (Our trailer is outdoors, 24/7/365.) I offered parts here, then took it to recycling, with no takers. The 9.5 works well in our parking spot beside the house, and on house 15 amp. We have a smaller 2008 elite. We don't have lithium, or a way to run the ac from battery. My experience is strictly running it at home. We don't have (nor ever had) an easy start. It's very quiet. It works. In retrospect, since we rarely have power camping, I could have replaced the old dometic with a vent fan, and saved a lot of money. It is nice, though, to have the ability to have ac, if we need it.

12.7 in old weak batteries can drop very rapidly. The shore power test you've done probably tells the story, imo.

Funny, I was just out in my trailer this morning, checking some things out, and I was going to ask you what your battery levels were. Now, you've solved the mystery, all on your own. Good on you. I have friends with a 2009 who still have their original Trojan wet cells in service. (They maintain meticulously, and are plugged in through storage, and most of the time, camping as well.) Theyve defied all odds, imo. Me? 99 per cent boondocking, solar charging. On our third set of batteries. Our two Deka/east penn agm group 31s are in their 5th season. Hoping for a few more. Fingers crossed. Batteries are so expensive. I feel your pain.

I'd start with stuff you have in the house, mildest. It depends on what the stains really are, but it could indeed be mildew. Fiberglass gelcoat has "pores" that can collect tiny amounts of organic matter, allowing mold to grow, without really good wax. Even then, it can happen. None of these will hurt your gelcoat. Best done on a cooler day, in the shade. Try a paper towel soaked in vinegar, and plaster it to the hull. Let it sit ten minutes. Rinse it and see. If that doesn't make a difference, try soaking a paper towel in hydrogen peroxide, same procedure, different spot. ( you never want to mix peroxide and vinegar.) There are many marine mildew removers on the market. Someone, I think @dewdev, used Starbrite. I recently tried marine 31 on a few stubborn spots in my bath, with good success, after none of my home remedies worked. All these need to be well washed and rinsed after application. I'd stick with marine products, though, A cleaner wax has a mild polish in it, last resort. Best applied by hand. Any polish or compound is a form of very fine grit, and removes a tiny bit of gel coat. The wrong tools in inexperienced hands will do more harm than good, as John e Davies mentioned. You don't want permanent swirl marks in your beautiful sides. Once you get the trailer clean, wax it well, with a good quality wax, and keep it up. Wax seals those pores. We wax twice each year, exterior. Now we use collinite, since 3m ultra has been (sadly) discontinued. Interior gets waxed once a year. Last year, I skipped it, and got some spots in the kitchen.. What part of the country did your trailer come from?

Pretty sure that's an older Dodge Ram, 1997 to 2001, second generation design. Look at the grill and the rectangular insets for fog lamps, if ordered, and the rectangular shape of the headlights. (Grill became a little more rounded and bigger, in the 2002 through 2008 redesign, and the fog lamp inset is round, headlights one unit and more of a European look. ) I'd agree, probably a work truck. How many extended cab, grey Dodge Ram pickups can there still be on the road in that area, 21 to 25 years old?

When we changed out our original Ventline for the Maxxfan Dome with LED ring light, I posted a few photos and a short video in this thread. We use the fans in our trailer all the time, and I'm happy to report the MaxxAir is still very quiet, and works very well, while drawing very little power. Sometimes I just prop open the bath door, and run the maxxair instead of the bigger fan. My only complaint is that it's more difficult to open than the old Ventline. But, I absolutely love the overhead light. I wish the big fan had one, too. We've camped over 150 days in the trailer since install, plus I often run it when it's parked at the house, just to circulate the air here in humid sw Florida.

Inside, or outside?

Propane is heavier than air, so might still linger if you "fixed" it with tightening the fitting. Do take it in for service. It's new. You're covered. And let us know what is found.

We probably live in the edge, but we don't carry a spare pump, even though we replaced ours once on 14 years. Maybe I should, as we're approaching that 8 year replacement mark... something to think about.

Charlie, awesome photo. Calendar quality. Please forward to @MDuncan

Now, isn't that just crazy in what's supposed to be an overlanding trailer? And they're definitely $$$$.

Many of us just call boondocking "camping". We've rarely had hookups in 14 seasons. The Olivers are great off grid trailers, properly equipped and maintained. As you can guess, we're very happy with ours. However, if you're thinking about rock crawling, or extremely rough overlanding, you may want to look elsewhere. A couple folks on here moved on from Ollies to more expensive Aussie built Overland trailers. (Actually, they're each on the second Aussie trailer, so you'd definitely get some brand comparisons. ) You could look at posts from Raspy and DonThompson to see their reasons, and if they line up with yours. However, both are still members here, and I suspect would tell you what they loved about their Olivers, if you reached out to them. As far as leaks, pretty much every camper of every brand will leak, someday, somewhere. The difference is in the resulting damage Good luck with your decision.

I hope it works out for you @Trainman. Warranty issues, these days, take a ton of patience, imo. Mist companies are suffering from reduced staff.. Best of luck!