DavePhelps

I will definitely try this! Now if I could just keep the furnace quieter! That would be a big plus for the new Truma heater as our Suburban is like a rocket going off. Keeps the place warm though! I've been absorbing all the good ideas presented. Thanks to all. We are expecting another cold front soon so I will do some more testing. I'll also take floor temperature readings next time, could be interesting. Looks like all you LE2 folks will have to do your own due diligence figuring out return air flow but I see the gears are turning! I think it is a worthwhile endeavor. Cheers. Dave

Finally did this and I see on the newer Elite1, it looks like the return air grille was moved to the rear curbside bench seat, so that is much better! Can't tell if a vent was also placed in the bathroom, but that would also be a good idea. E2 still has it's main return right next to the furnace.... Rivernerd also mentioned that Oliver has also added one in the bathroom and that is great. Personally, I would still think about closing the main return vent next to the furnace and add other returns strategically placed (like where Routlaw mentioned earlier) to create better below deck ventilation/heating. Remember to maintain the proper cu.in. return air requirement for your particular furnace if you do this. Finally, and just to be clear, those vents at the top and bottom of the closet door are not return air vents. They probably have good use keeping the closet ventilated and warmer to keep clothes from getting damp or whatever, but they are not part of the return air system and would do nothing to keep the below deck area warmer. If there was, or is a third vent between the closet wall and the bathroom sink vanity, then that would connect the closet to the return air system. Carry on. Dave

OK, so one of your return grilles is under the closet door? That would make sense. I was imagining both return grilles inside the closet somehow which wasn't computing. Dave

Rivernerd, So is warm cabin air leaking in to the closet from around the door as a result of the reduced closet pressure from the returns in there? Or is one of the vents a supply? Just trying to figure your setup out. Don't see how two returns would warm the space. Glad it's working though! Dave

I don't get that either, unless they also added a vent in the door. Glad to hear that they're thinking about the benefits of well placed cold air returns in the newer models though. Dave

My interest in this mod is two fold. First, to create more even heat distribution within the cabin area. Second, to keep the basement above freezing as we like to camp in the early Spring and Fall. I think Oliver has overlooked the benefits of proper return air placement and what it can do to increase cabin comfort and durability of the plumbing systems between the hulls. As for between the hulls, yes, there is reflectix insulation on the floor of the outer hull, but it is also mostly an unconditioned dead air space and it gets cold down there! Especially the rear corners where there is a lot of vulnerable plumbing. The beauty of placing the return air ducts far from the furnace is that it turns this under floor space into a giant plenum where conditioned cabin air flows from the return grilles back to the furnace warming the entire area, not to mention more evenly heating the cabin itself. My test showed a dramatic increase in temperature below by moving the vents further away from the furnace. There was definitely more air flow from the vent on the same side as the furnace. But that's not surprising and could be adjusted for if one was so inclined. Just remember that your furnace has a minimum cold air return volume requirement, it's in your owner's manual. I think if you have properly sized return air vents, then outside air being sucked in through the drainage scuppers wouldn't be a issue, but this needs to be tested. This is also a simple passive setup, no fans or other support needed for it to work. I will say that if I was out in extreme cold for long periods, I might need to employ other measures. Time will tell. Now that I have these sensors, I can keep track better of what's going on between the hulls. I'll also probably add a 4" return vent in the bathroom on the side of the vanity under the TP holder. Not a lot of flat wall real estate in the E1 to place a vent but I think I can just fit one in there. More testing to do, but may have to wait until next winter unless some Arctic blast hits us again. Cheers. Dave

I finally got around to purchasing some temperature sensors so I could experiment with different cold air return locations. The original 6x10 grille (45 cu. in. free air flow) was installed right next to the furnace in my front dinette seat (Elite 1). I never understood this decision and wonder if anyone knows why Oliver put it there. It is within inches of the furnace and two supply outlets. This is not desirable for even heating and does nothing to create air flow below between the hulls, which would help keep that area warmer in colder temps. My experiment showed much better results than I anticipated. First I sealed off the OEM return with tape. Then I cut two 6" holes in some cardboard and replaced those with the rear curb and street side fiberglass seat panels. I then placed sensors on the floor of the basement down with the plumbing on each side under those holes. I placed the third sensor under the sink. When I turned on the furnace, there was very positive intake through the 6" holes, which by the way, provide a bit more free air flow than the OEM grille (~56sq.in. for 2, 6" round versus 45 sq.in. for 6x10 OEM grille, which actually has 5x9" free air flow). I brought the interior temps up from 58* to 68* in about 10-15 minutes. You can see the temperature difference in the pic below; and this is with the return air holes cut in at seat level, not at floor level and as far to the rear as I would want them! I also noticed a big improvement in heat distribution throughout the trailer, although in our small elite1, heat was never a problem in the cabin. So, before I start cutting holes in my trailer, I ask if there is something I'm missing here, and why didn't Oliver do this to begin with. It seems like a very simple way to markedly improve the performance of an already stellar trailer. Any comments appreciated! Thanks. Dave

Thanks everyone for the replies. I have learned a lot about tires and wheels throughout this inquiry! I have given up on getting new 15" wheels (this is a good thing). One consideration with my Oliver are the leveling jack pads. On my trailer, the pads are just 1" away from the tires when retracted. The 16" Ion wheels on my Oliver have a -8mm offset (about 5/16"). This moves the centerline of the tire away from the hub mounting surface (and the leveling pads) by that amount. I would not want the tires to be any closer! All the 15" wheels I could find had 0mm offset. So I'm sticking with my stock 16" wheels with their -8mm backset and 3300lb rating. That will save me a lot of money as well. I didn't know about those LT235/65R16 tires. Cooper makes them, the Discoverer HT3. A little wider (.4"), but 1.3" less diameter. So they should also fit as a spare as it has for other LE1 owners. Lucky for me, I have a friend close by with a LE1 with this tire setup. Tomorrow I'll swing by and get his spare and see how it fits on my trailer. Fingers crossed. Dave

Thanks Bill, I wasn't expecting a huge response but thought I would give it a try! I'll try the service ticket route. I tried calling a few days ago and left a message but haven't yet heard back. No doubt things are busy at the factory. If I find out anything I will post it for any future reference needs. Dave

Yes, that Oliver sign is a PITA. I would much rather have a surface mounted brake light there, or nothing at all. Sooner or later, it seems many here have had to deal with it. There are some good posts on the forum on how to tackle removing the lense (yep, it has to come off so the area can be properly cleaned for resealing). Don't forget to also check the rear marker lights on each side of the Oliver light. Mine leaked there as well and since the supply wires to those lights had no drip loop, water ran down the wires forward and on to the floor of the upper cabinet where it would eventually leak out of the overhead speakers. Since redoing the marker lights and Oliver sign, there have been no more leaks. Here's a link about the marker lights. Sorry but I can't find the one on the Oliver sign.... https://olivertraveltrailers.com/forums/topic/7018-leaking-marker-lights/#comment-75697 Good luck and hope you are feeling better. Dave

Time to replace my tires. I have the original LT225/75R16 that came with our Ollie. I see Oliver has switched to ST225/75R15" tires and new wheels and got to thinking if this new combination would fit under my spare tire cover. The new 15" tire is .4" wider and .4" taller than the smaller 215/70R16 spare that came with our trailer. I always thought it would be nice if all tires were the same for simplicity and rotation purposes. The fit is really close so wondering if anyone has any insight about whether the full sized 15" tire will fit as a spare. Regarding the new wheels, does anyone know the rim width and the offset? Worried about the offset as the tires in my current setup come awfully close to the leveling jack pads (1"). This is why I'm thinking of going to 15" wheels to hopefully get more clearance there. Thanks. Dave

I am eventually wanting to do this as well. But I am curious why you wouldn't want to connect your aux panels directly into your existing onboard charge controller. My understanding (uh-oh) is that it is much more efficient for the charge controller to be closer to the batteries than it is for the panels to be close to the controller. Since the aux panels are usually far away from the trailer (typical cable runs are 20' or more), if they have an integrated controller, then there is greater voltage loss along the longer run to the batteries. Aux panels without integrated controllers do not suffer this loss as the current to the onboard controller is not as effected by voltage drop over long runs. It is the voltage drop between the controller and batteries that is the issue. Help me out here. I'm not an electrician but after studying this, it seems like a better option. What am I missing? Thanks. Dave

Some time ago, this was discussed in detail but alas, the forum search function is still not all that functional.... The belly band came off in our bathroom a few years back and I reattached it as described below with no further issue. Good prep/cleaning is vital for good adhesion. Depending on what cleaning products have been used by owners on their interior, there may be silicone and/or waxes present on the gelcoat. From the factory, there could be other contaminants. After removing the loose band, I cleaned the area with MEK and a white scotchbrite pad, then gave a final wipe with more MEK and a microfiber towel. There are lots of ways to go about cleaning, but it will require a solvent based cleaner like MEK or the 3M cleaner John Davies showed above, or something similar that leaves no residue, and thoroughly clean off any contaminants. For the tape, I used 3M Super Strength Molding Tape: https://www.amazon.com/Super-Strength-Molding-Tape-03614/dp/B002JOVUO0/ref=sr_1_1?crid=QB28U5VAKS9&keywords=3m+03614&qid=1687388031&sprefix=3m+03614%2Caps%2C165&sr=8-1 I did not remove the old tape, but did "clean" it with a few wipes of MEK. The tape is only .043" thick (1/32+) and I did not notice it made the band stick out or create a space between the hull and the back of the band. IIRC, the band is slightly concave in the back so that helps. The tape is 1/2" wide and I ran a strip along the top and bottom of the band (like it was done from the factory). Before sticking the band to the wall however, there is an important step not to be missed, and that is to first wipe down the contact area of the hull with 3M Adhesion Promoter: https://www.amazon.com/3M-Adhesion-Promoter-Sponge-Applicators/dp/B07MVK1PG6/ref=sr_1_2?crid=HCJKV1Q09VD1&keywords=3m+4298&qid=1687388387&sprefix=3m+4298%2Caps%2C203&sr=8-2 I used small blue tape pieces on the hull for reference marks so I could focus on attaching the band and not worry about it being straight. Try to compress the band a little going around the corners. Peel the backing off the tape as you go. Having a helper makes the process a lot easier. That was my process and it has worked well so far. Good luck! Dave

So I've had time to consider this a little more, and make a correction to my earlier post. The Elite 1 has a GVWR of 5000 lbs. The OEM tires it came with are BF Goodrich Commercial LT225/75-16. Please correct me if I'm wrong but tire pressure/load ratings seem to be the same between different manufacturers for the same size and type of tire. So, for the LT225/75-16, its load rating at 70 psi is 2440 lbs. (off the Toyo chart I referenced earlier in this link). This gives a combined load rating of 4880lbs. This is the pressure I have been running these tires with no issue. I misspoke earlier when I said I ran them at 60psi, I do use 70psi, brain fade I guess.... I have not scaled my loaded, ready to travel Oliver, but think that 70psi is a reasonable and safe starting point for highway travel for the Elite 1. I can see why OTT sets them up this way. Once off road, on gravel and traveling at reduced speeds for extended periods, I might lower it down to 60psi. My 2 cents. Dave

Yep, I've been setting my air pressure to 60psi in my Elite1 (stock LT tires) for highway driving with no ill effect. After reading all this, I may air down to 50-55psi for wash-boarded gravel roads where my speed is much slower, maybe even lower? I think ultimate tire pressure used is a decision one makes based on vehicle weight, speed, and road conditions. Certainly, all the pressures listed in the charts are for normal highway driving and that is a safe and reasonable starting point. Dave

This is off Toyo's website. Scroll down to page 23 to start LT metric tires for pressure/load ratings. https://www.toyotires.com/media/pxcjubjs/application_of_load_inflation_tables_20200723.pdf Dave

Thanks but that link is not working. Just a simple payload number would be great. I'm hoping it's over 1700 lbs. Dave

Hey Tallmandan, Would you mind posting a pic of your axle rating/Payload sticker? Or just list them out? It would be appreciated! Thanks Dave

I feel your pain. Trying to get your hand in that small bumper space to attach and detach the sewer hose from the trailer outlet pipe is a real pita. So, like AndrewK, I never detach the hose. Makes life easier and far less fussing around. Never had any issue doing this. Just be sure to cap the end of your sewer hose, which you can only do after you have collapsed most of it into the bumper area. If you cap first, you won't be able to fit the hose in there as you'll be compressing trapped air in the hose with the cap locked in place. I also use one of these, and wouldn't be without it: https://www.amazon.com/Camco-Sidewinder-Support-Lightweight-Plastic/dp/B000BUU5WW/ref=sr_1_2?crid=205BE4AEGCSY8&keywords=rv%2Bsewer%2Bhose%2Bramp&qid=1657242718&sprefix=rv%2Bsewer%2Bhose%2Bramp%2Caps%2C137&sr=8-2&th=1 Very simple and really helps get a continuous slope down to the sewer inlet. Take a little time to set up your hose and all will drain well. Tanks drain best when they are near full. If you have time, drain the black tank, refill to 50% with the black tank flush inlet, then drain again. Then drain your gray tank. And like others have said, tip up your trailer for a better drain! It does get easier! Dave

John, Thanks for the heads up on those Cherry Max rivets. Wicks Aircraft Supply sells them as well. I sure don't see the rivet stems in Galway Girl's pics.... Yea, not the best place to employ pop rivets, especially soft, non structural aluminum ones. That box is heavy loaded up, and on the Elite2, since it is located right over the wheels, I wonder if that area may be subject to more vibration than other parts of the hull, just thinking out loud. The way those rivet heads broke off sure looks like a stress (vibration) related failure to me. Oliver may want to rethink this detail. Dave

Trying to understand just where the rivet failed. Hard to tell from the pic, but it looks like it failed just under the head of the rivet? If this is the case, then I would recommend 3 things. 1.Put a very slight countersink on the battery box rivet holes, just barely enough to break the sharp edge from the drilled hole. That sharp edge could wear away the rivet from vibration, especially if it's aluminum. If you removed the entire battery box, I'd soften that edge on both sides of the hole. 2. Use stainless steel rivets and not aluminum, they are stronger and I don't see issues with galvanic corrosion in this application. 3. Finally, back up your rivet with a washer of like material (if you can get to the back side of the rivet). Just my 2 cents. If I was designing this from scratch, I probably would have gone with rivet nuts (with backup washers), or a thru-bolt design, for a much more secure connection to the hull. But probably not able to use these as an after the fact repair. Looks like you did a good job. Hope it holds up for you! Dave

Thanks for the responses. The leak is definitely from the marker light(s) as I have them all taped off now and no leaking is taking place. I guess I will rebed the loose marker lights into the trim ring on the exterior with RTV Silicone as Oliver originally did. The ones that feel solid I will leave alone. I'll then reseal all of them on the inside with more carefully applied sealant. I'll also try to redirect the wiring so any future leaks will be directed between the hulls and not on to the floor of the attic. Dave

Hey David, Just wanted to say thank you for your contributions to this forum. Your ideas and careful explanations were a great help to me trying to figure out a lot of the details of owning an Oliver. I ended up employing a lot of your suggestions with great success! Take care and all the best with your future endeavors. Great pics of your Ollie as well!! Best, DaveP

Greetings all. Been away from the forum for what has been a tumultuous two and a half years, and that is not including the whole pandemic situation....! Lots of new folks here now I see since we first got our Ollie 107 back in 2015. I have had leaking issues in the rear of my trailer for a while now and finally had the time and energy to get after it. Here in the PNW, we have had nothing but rain so lots of opportunity to diagnose the problem. Of course, the first culprit was the Oliver sign above the rear window, it leaked like a sieve. There has been other posts about this issue so I won't go on about this save to say that after talking to Jason at Oliver, it sounds like they are now bedding the lense with butyl tape (instead of the double sided tape that is not waterproof) and then sealing the perimeter on the outside with whatever is their current sealant of choice. Still wish they would just loose that lense all together and use a surface mounted light. Since we were heading off on a big trip when I discovered the Oliver light was leaking, I taped it off with the thought of repairing it when we got back. Since returning home, and having more rain, I was saddened to find that I was still getting water intrusion into the upper rear cabinet. This leakage was not finding its way down between the hulls, but was spreading out along the floor of the cabinet and dripping out through the overhead street-side speaker, which is right over my head when I am sleeping. Not the best way to be woken up at night! Those of you who have gotten in to this area know that there is a lot of wiring up there, lots of electrical connections, buss-bars, and the like. Not a good place to be saturated with water. After looking at the marker lights carefully, it was pretty clear that this was the second source of water intrusion up there. As can be seen in the picture, there are big gaps in the applied sealant through which water was coming in. Also, since Oliver installed these lights with no drip loops on the supply wires that would direct water between the hulls, water would just run down the wire towards the interior and on to the floor of the cabinet. So my question for anyone who has dealt with these lights is how best to proceed to reseal them. I was able to remove the blob of sealant on the inside and push out the red marker light. The exterior chrome trim ring remained affixed to the trailer. It looks like Oliver ran a bead of silicone around the trim ring and then pushed in the marker light during the install. Any suggestions? I hate silicone but maybe in this case I should reseal the same way? Does anyone have a link to the manufacturer of the marker lights? I may be able to learn more about them there. Then there is the trim ring itself. Not a lot of room to get any sealant in there. Thanks for any help/ideas! Everything else is good! Dave pic1: Gap in sealant where water was coming in (they all had gaps) pic2: Sealant blob removed a few more to go pic3: No drip loop on marker light wire directs water into the trailer right over a buss bar pic4: Marker light pushed out awaiting recommended sealant

csevel, That price of $400.00 from Oliver is really unfortunate, and way too high! Especially since it was their bad design (in this case) causing the problem. They should own up and at least do the job at their cost. Spinwelding a new fitting on the top of your tank, as another option, is not that hard, and tooling up is not as expensive as has been described. You will need a router, the driving tool, the threaded fitting, and the rest of the associated plumbing parts (pex line, a good crimper, etc.). I had most of the tools already except the driving tool. I got my driving tool and fittings here: https://www.spinwelding.com/products.html The driving tool was $67.50 (2017 price). The fittings are cheap, buy several so you can practice on a piece of scrap to get a feel for the process. I went to a local plastic tank manufacturer and they gave me some scraps for free. With all the tools/parts in hand, one person can do the job in a couple hours. There will probably be some prep time as well depending on your tools, skills, and access to materials. There is a great video of Raspy helping out another old Oliver owner Reed Lukens getting his tank retrofitted: https://olivertraveltrailers.com/forums/topic/2006-fresh-water-tank-modification-new-suction-line/page/2/?tab=comments#comment-17879 Scroll down page 2 for videos, hope they still work. You will have to carefully ream out the compression fitting so the pex or copper pickup tube can slide all the way through. It's brass and drills easily. There are a few threads on the forum about this process. Since Oliver would have all these tools and associated parts readily at hand with no fussing about, to charge 400 bucks is quite a bit over the top. A link to my old post on the subject: https://olivertraveltrailers.com/forums/topic/2707-my-water-tank-odyssey/?tab=comments#comment-25446 Personally, I like the pex pickup tube over the copper, but can't say definitively which is better. Both seem to have worked great. Definitely a mod worth doing if you boondock a lot. Good luck. Dave