DavePhelps

That is a good idea Oliver should check out! Put the return as far from the furnace as is practical. On the Elite I, the return is on the front dinette seat, basically right next to the furnace. Where I have had some freezing trouble is on the street side rear of the trailer, where the water inlets are. That might be a good place to locate the return (on the Elite I). The Elite I bathroom is the warmest room in the house as the furnace is just on the other side of the wall and the duct run is very short. For the Elite II, using hard ducting would improve flow (reduced friction loss) and there are insulation products available for this type of ducting. Anyway, I hope DonnaDuane are working out their problem. It's been mighty cold in the Cascades. Dave

On the Elite1, the furnace is under the front dinette seat. There are two supply ducts, one to the bathroom and a very short run out the base of the front dinette seat. I really wish Oliver had a third duct that warmed the area between the hulls better. I asked about this when we were in the market and was told the residual heat from the furnace itself would keep the water lines from freezing. This has not proven to be the case, and needs to be looked at. I would do what Randy suggested and remove the two ducts from the furnace outlet. Or at least the one that goes to the bathroom. That will send a blast of warm air between the hulls and hopefully thaw your frozen line. A more difficult solution might be to remove the access panel under the bathroom sink and put a small fan in there. Obviously not a solution you want to do regularly if you're a cold weather camper. Dave

Don't forget to add the tongue weight of your trailer to the payload calculation, which on the E2 is north of 500 lbs. (460 on website). The other "stuff" could include toppers, bed mats, spare gas/water, and all after market accessories. That said, you should be fine and safe in your Ram, at least to get you going. Dave

That's a pretty neat hose that Steve posted. But unless I misunderstand, it would not protect the spigot from freezing. Remember you have around 30 gallons of water to use in your FWT. If it was me, and I was in your situation, I would just use the FWT all the time. Then if it begins to run low, fire up the hose and refill the tank, then disconnect again. During fillup, you could also fill a container for drinking water if you don't want to drink out of your FWT, like some of us do. Just my 2 cents. Dave

Like Mike, I too bought an extra 25' water hose and have used them both. I often need the extra length while "camping" at friends' houses. At campgrounds that have water, you never know what side of the trailer the spigot will be, but 25' usually works great. If water is provided at your camp site, it is always best practice just to disconnect your hose at night and let the water drain out of the hose and your trailer (it will drain from the supply side of your backflow valve and out). Full timers will go to the trouble of heat tape and insulation, but for the traveler it's really not necessary. You also would need to tape and insulate the frost-free spigot or risk freezing and busting that and incurring a hefty bill from the campground owners. It just takes a couple of minutes to disconnect and stow your hose in the TV, and let the freeze come! Dave

That is "two Falls ago"... Damn auto spelling.

Glad you made it back safe and sound! Sounds like quite an adventure. We had a similar drive back from Red Rock Lakes NWR two For ago... Being chased by a major early Winter storm. The Oliver sure was/is a cozy shelter to retreat to when the weather gets ugly. And they do tow like a dream. Glad you made it home safely. Dave

Man those reveals are pretty bad. When I get home I'll check my window and get back to you. That shouldn't have left the factory like that.

George, Did you take off the AC shroud on top of your trailer and make sure all the weep holes in your AC pan are clean? Also did you remove the interior AC cover and make sure the mounting bolts are good and snug? Finally, When Oliver installed my AC, they forgot to connect the condensate drain tube coming off the AC unit to the long drain tube that exits the trailer. So make sure that is in place as well. I bring this up because I'm wondering if that window, as it is, could be the cause of all that water intrusion. You may be able to tweak the hinge a bit to equalize the reveals between window and frame. But first I would for sure tape it off from the weather and see if water is still coming in. Instead of taping the seams, I would tape some 6mil plastic across the top and sides of the entire window on the gelcoat. Don't cover any marker lights or the Oliver logo light, you'll have to eliminate entry points one at a time. That way you know for sure if it's the window or something else. Good luck, I feel your pain! Dave

Frank, I know you asked for a regulator with a gauge, but this unit has worked very well for me. It is simple, bombproof, and as far as I can tell, has a much higher flow rating than the cheaper units: https://www.rvwaterfilterstore.com/Fixed.htm If you still need or want to have a gauge, this store also sells those, although they are expensive. I've been very happy dealing with this outfit and their products are top notch. Dave

Just got to wondering if maybe kerosene lantern wicks may do an equal if not better job than pipe cleaners. Plus no metal wire to poke you or leave rust stains. https://www.amazon.com/Paraffin-Kerosene-Lanterns-Genuine-Superior/dp/B01BYLYQYY/ref=cm_wl_huc_item I might give it a try. Dave

Hey Scotty, Glad it worked out for you. Mine still looks like new and has worked great! Dave

Jaque, Having the Elite1, I can not fit the 30# tanks so I figured I'd just carry an extra tank for early and late season, or extended trips. The three 20's will carry a little more propane than the two 30's. Yet another option, although very expensive, is to go aluminum tanks. IIRC, a full 30# aluminum tank weighs about the same as a full 20# steel tank. Vintage Trailer Supply has them, and you can order them with gauges as well: https://www.vintagetrailersupply.com/Aluminum-Propane-Tanks-s/1.htm You'll find that propane really goes a long way in an Oliver. The extra insulation and the double hulls really make a tight unit. At least in my small Elite1, I barely get in to the second tank after two weeks of cold weather use. If you are still worried about running out, I'd just get an extra steel 20# tank. Much cheaper than going aluminum or composite. I always refill my own tanks. I feel it's a far better option as far as safety and value. Propane is everywhere and easy to fill. Good luck! Dave

geO, This is interesting. On my 2015, all the windows, maxxair vent, bathroom fan, plumbing vent, and all the other penetrations were factory sealed with 3M Fast Cure 4000 UV. Oliver uses this all over the trailer inside and out. The porch lights and the markers were factory sealed with silicone. Many of those sealed with the silicone have failed. I would not use silicone over the 3M 4000. I had a few gaps here and there in the window trim that I redid. And I also cleaned up some "less than adequate" joints on the interior, especially in the bathroom and around the kitchen sink. The only issue with the 3M 4000, other than it's cost, is that once opened, it has a very short shelf life. So get all your spots lined up and do the inside and outside all at once. Cut the tip on your tube sparingly! Clean your rig well to remove any dirt and wax. Give a quick pre-wipe with acetone or MEK (my preference) on a rag around where the joint is. On the inside, I then tape both sides of the joint with thin blue tape (delicate surfaces). Carefully squeeze a fine bead in the joint and smooth out with your finger. Immediately pull the tape and lightly swipe again to get the ridges from the tape to blend in. You may not like to, but I wipe a little paint thinner on my finger to lubricate it a bit, works good. Too much sealant in the joint and you'll have a mess. Use the sealant sparingly. The first wipe should be tight to the tape edge, not going over the top. It's a judgement call depending on the size of the fill. The 3M 4000 can clean up with paint thinner so if there is some that gets away from you, you can carefully clean up with that. The stuff skins over pretty fast so be organized, work small areas, and don't forget to breathe! On the outside, I just very carefully apply the bead and smooth it out with my finger. If the sealant line gets messy, some thinner on a rag drawn along the edge of the sealant cleans it up nicely. Warning though: don't use thinner or any other solvent around your chromed plastic light fixtures, it will mess up the finish! I don't know why Oliver recommended silicone to you when most of what you'll be sealing was done with the 3M product. Good luck! RE: the marker lights, I would like to hear how others have sealed those as I think I have a few leakers, and yes they were factory sealed with silicone! Can the chromed escutcheon ring be removed somehow for sealing? Dave

Donna, I have not found the Google Maps ETA function to be accurate, certainly not for someone towing a trailer at responsible speeds. Maybe a for a Porsche on a warm summer day! Definitely add time to their estimate. That has been my experience anyway. With regards to the WDH. My TV is a 3/4 ton van so no need to have it. For you, you will have to check. Many Unibody style cars are not rigid enough to handle the forces the WDH creates. Yours may be OK but check. I'd get one if it will handle it. From E-trailer: https://www.etrailer.com/question-241876.html Dave

Donna and Duane, I live in Portland and made the trip you are talking about when we picked up our Elite1. Let me tell you, it is a long way out there to Hohenwald TN!! Just a quick look on Google Maps will tell you that from Portland it's 2370 miles out there and another 2370 miles back. In the winter, your average speed towing, if you're lucky, will be around 50 MPH. And those are not going to be easy miles. At 50 MPH average, that is 47.4 hours of driving, and I think that is very optimistic. Potential snow/ice, rain and wind, backups, crazy drivers.... Days will also be short and you will be driving in darkness for several hours each day. I've towed in these conditions (thankfully for not very long!) and it is quite exhausting. To attempt this trip in just 3 days would be most unwise IMHO. Another option that hasn't been talked about, which is what we did, is to delay your pickup until early Spring. Our Ollie was completed about the same time yours will be, but we had them hold it for us until April, when we made the trip out to pick it up. Much better this way! And gives you time to enjoy and learn about your new trailer while taking in the wondrous early Spring throughout our beautiful country. I wish you the best of luck on your trip whenever you decide to go. Be safe! Dave

We have the smaller Elite1 with the full size rear bed. We had been just throwing a sheet over the seat cushions and putting our sleeping bags on that. Worked OK for two seasons but recently ordered this 100% latex foam topper from Amazon and it has been incredible. In fact, we like it so much we bought another one for our home bed. I took the foam to a mattress shop to get cut to match the curves of the Oliver (I made a template), they didn't even charge me. It's 2" thick and we just put it on top of the seat cushions. I also had the single piece of foam cut down the middle to make it easier to take up and store in the van if I need to set up the big table for company. Just another option for those wanting a little cushier bed. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00UYGAH4O/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&th=1 Dave

I would underscore everything that Sherry said. We love the size of the Elite. You can tuck them in just about anywhere, and it is a very cozy shelter. But.... If you are much over 5'10", you might feel a little cramped for headroom. I'm 5'10" and can stand tall in the main cabin with maybe 1.5" clearance. In the bathroom I have to stoop a bit to take a shower, but not so bad. For two folks, you learn how to move within the trailer. It's like being on a boat. The Elite is also narrower than the Elite2 so if you're more on the plus side, you may appreciate the extra width of the Elite2. Since this is our first trailer, we decided to go smaller and am glad we did. Everyone has different requirements and are of different sizes! We don't travel with pets so that is not a concern for us. Best to visit one or both if any are near by. The Elite will also be quite a bit lighter (but still pretty hefty) and have less tongue weight if you have a smaller TV. Good luck. Dave

So I'm trying to figure the CAT scale readings. If the Rumline's trailer axle weight is 5560 lbs, and if his tongue weight is indeed 620 lbs, would you add these two together to get the total weight of the trailer?? To answer the OP's question, I personally like the Taco but do not think it would be a good TV for the Elite 2. Most E2 owners seem to be weighing in 5000 to 6000 lbs. This is pretty close to the Taco's max 6800 lb. max. tow rating (this figure is reduced with options like crew cab, 4WD, bed length, and other options). More importantly, it's max payload is too low, 1120 to 1620 lbs. If your tongue weight is 500 -600 lbs, you have a 200 lb canopy, 300 lbs passengers: that's over 1000 lbs just for that. Plus only a 21 gallon gas tank. You will also absolutely need a WDH with any midsized truck. I have an Elite1 and am going through all this. I would dearly love to have a mid sized pickup as it would also be may daily driver, but I just would not feel comfortable using one in the Inter Mountain West where I mostly travel. If the new Chevy/GMC 1500 with the new 3.0 Duramax Diesel has an exhaust brake like the 2.8 does, I would be very tempted to go that way. If no exhaust brake, then I think the F-150, HD payload pkg./max tow 3.5 Ecoboost will be the truck I get. It also has a 35 gallon gas tank and comes with LT tires. Good luck on your truck quest. Dave

Nice truck! Out of curiosity, what is the payload rating (located on sticker on the driver side door jamb)? Could be just right for my Ollie1....maybe....hopefully. Dave

I really like the Canyon with the 2.8 Duramax. In fact it is high on my buy list. Just waiting to see how the larger Silverado with the new 3.0 Duramax plays out. Just remember with all trucks that the tow capacity is hardly ever the issue, generally speaking. It's overloading your payload capacity where people can get in to trouble. The Canyon in 2WD, Crew cab, and short bed has a 1507 pound payload limit. 4WD and long bed options would reduce payload further. Ollie2 has a tongue weight of 460 lbs (from website). The tongue weight would be even more if you option the twin 30# propane tanks and have other stuff in the front like a generator. Add 2 passengers, say 300 lbs, that's 760 lbs minimum payload and you haven't begun to load your gear. Pack water? 8.34 lbs a gallon... Firewood? Fiberglass topper? etc. In this scenario, you have 740 lbs to work with before you're technically overloaded. I totally agree with what Overland said, some folks don't mind creeping up to the edge or even going over it, others like to have a large, maybe even an extreme safety margin. I will say however, from what I have read online regarding these issues, is that if you were ever in an accident and it was determined that there was an overload situation with your TV, you could held liable for all damages, and/or receive no support from your insurance company. The Canyon is a great and capable truck within it's design parameters, you just need to figure your payload needs and the tongue weight of your trailer, and then assess your personal risk tolerance. Personally, I take this towing stuff pretty seriously. I want my hitch to be setup properly, and I want to keep within the weight requirements of my TV. Be safe and happy travels! Dave ps Really looking forward on hearing about how your new Canyon does ScubaRx. With all the payload details.

Routlaw, the screen is tough to remove, but doable. You have to really compress the springs on the bottom edge of the screen frame, and they are stiff. Then the top will pull out. I also have to pull off my shades to get the screens off. Cleaning the window tracks is no fun! I assume ScubaRx is talking about removing the exterior gaskets to remove the window sash?? Haven't tried it yet. But it sure would be nice to get that sash out of there for the best job. Dave

Raspy wrote: Any chance you’ll be at the Oregon Coast Gathering at Bullards Beach this month, or Winnipeg next month for the Boler anniversary? No I won't be at either. The summer has filled up fast. Bullards Beach was booked out quite a while ago. Have fun though! Like your setup Pete! Dave

I have tried but can't get that window out. That would make it so much easier! I lift the moveable sash up in to the frame but no matter how hard I try, I can't get the bottom to kick out. Any secrets?? Dave

Hey Routlaw, how about these? They look intriguing: http://www.truckcamperadventure.com/2016/01/the-dometic-seitz-window-pros-cons-and-a-few-tips/ And this: I agree with you, Oliver could do better with the windows. Dave