Ralph Mawyer

This is the bottom of the battery box without the aluminum support bracket connected. The box is firm, with no movement apparent or possible, nor with any apparent cracking of fiberglass in the battery box or in the interior, that I can tell. It looks like it was glassed in place and is resting on the wheel well, with some compression of the insulation after bolts fell out Can someone with a 2020 or 2021 take a look at there’s and see whether there is normally space between there? Opening ticket with Oliver, but given the lack of flex in the box, I’m thinking best recourse may be to just drill new holes through the ones I can see and secure as-is. Assuming I can get drill in there. Haven’t gotten a photo, but I can feel a lower hole and upper oblong hole on the floor bracket, but no play to get a pin or punch through both

A bit of serendipity as I was troubleshooting the loss of all power. That turned out to be an outlet that probably went down during our recent lightning storm. Anyway, while checking circuit breakers, fuses and the inverter GVCI switch I found two lonesome bolts that have been waiting for someone to finish drilling two holes in the aluminum support beam under the the pantry shelf. It looks like it supports that fiberglass component. No movement and seems very sturdy, so trying to decide whether to finish the job. Wonder if there are two nuts on the other side? 😉 Actually looking at the photos now, it looks like there was a washer on the aluminum, which now makes me think they backed out and I need to figure out hard to push up and see if I have holes on the other bracket...something for tomorrow. I know that fiberglass wasn't moving when I checked...

You had an unanswered question in your originally thread… did you remove the metal bracket before mounting to the Oliver?

So what spec grease is recommended. Didn’t see it in manual or on these threads. Mobil 1? wt?

My 2002 Casita Spirt 17' had an awesome Coleman that was still going strong when I sold it last spring. ;-(. When you have to wear AirPods to watch movies with AC on....

In my last conversation with Oliver Service about a broken hold-down band for the heater tank, they suggested no more than 60psi to reduce vibration issues due to a hard ride. I'm somewhere around 55-60 at this point.

Great Hull number. 😉

" the buyer had to take out a loan from his bank and they made a certified check to me. Before the buyer came to pick up the motorcycle, I had him to send me a copy of the certified check, I looked up his bank on internet and called them with all of the check information to be sure it was a legitimate check before accepting it. " This is what my seller did when I bought their 2020 last spring. We had a pretty good email thread going and had done due diligence on each other over the net. Plus, I was motivated to lock it down since buyers were lined up behind me. That said, wired funds are the most common/safest solution, but need to work around bank hours and transition time between depositing and posting, particularly if they want to do final inspection of the trailer prior to releasing funds, i.e., inspect Mon AM, contact buyer's bank to wire funds, funds post in the PM, then trailer released. I'd plan on two days.

Varies by state and coverage, and like most, you are probably limited to coverage by your primary carrier as most don't want to insure just the trailer by itself...but pretty reasonable rate depending on deductible and whether ACV or Agreed Value coverage. Given the market value of an Oliver, vs Book, I'd be sure you have an Agreed Value clause in the contract in case of a total loss. Would mean the difference between getting $35K and $55K+.

See link above

You can deduct anything, until you are audited...but this looks pretty safe. 😉

https://littlehousecustoms.com/store.html#gen

Just watch tight turns as you will bend the handle…

Unless demand drops, that wait time reflects their production throughput, which was recently increased. 5/week I believe I’d put the order in. Based on what we’ve seen opportunities arise to move up the list when other folks have to cancel, like I did when I found a 2020 resale available for this season.

If you have an iPhone, you could put an Airtag between the walls with a hidden fish line to recover it for battery replacement. If you have a composting toilet you could even put it in the black tank. Even if the thief had an iPhone and knew enough to know one was in the trailer, he’d be so frustrated trying to find it, he might dump the trailer.

If going through Colorado you might bookmark this: https://cotrip.org/home.htm Just trying to get from Golden/Denver to Ouray this past week I was juggling I-70 closures due to mud slides and State 50 full closure all week. It’s a moving target here with road repairs and September weather adds another variable.

Update: Jason is sending new text strap, but is also going to discuss with engineering to see if there might be a better solution. Great service continues.

FWIW, I was referring to the driving experience as I-10 wanders through El Paso with the extremely high density of 18-wheelers moving cargo to/from Mexico, in addition to the usual city traffic. Upside, less chances of taking the wrong lane than within the Dallas highway system.

Was running 58-60. I know where you’re coming from. Just trying to nail the correct PSI for aftermarket tires on my LX 570 was a minor exercise, but at least we have IH8Mud.com expertise there. Probably need to link me to the tire thread here, but how did you arrive at 42….or just using the same as your Land Cruiser at 6000 lbs. 🙂

Jason in service got back to me. He offered a replacement strap. Queried him as to whether it was Home Depot type, or worth getting it from them. Waiting to hear back. He did caution to reuse the Truma top screw, with a bit of blue Loctite, but also said to be sure tires are running at 55 psi to mitigate a rough ride.

Everyone should experience I-10 through El Paso at least once. 😉

Pretty neat the way your drill holds up the trailer.

If I don’t have to take I-25 through Colorado Springs again, I should be OK. 🙂

Correct on both accounts… should be easy fix It is one of the frame screws and is the water tank. I have the Truma. Not sure why I typed furnace.

I was checking the water valves and noticed the hold down strap for the furnace is broken at the rivet, or maybe torx screw…now that I look closer at the photo. I noticed the strap is held at the bottom by a sheet metal screw. When I replace the strap can I just use a screw, though now thinking I might be able to reuse the top screw, if not a rivet? Better way to do this? Approximately 3000 miles on trailer between prior owner’s one trip and this first trip.