Ralph Mawyer

FWIW, Jason responded to my service ticket and said they use VHB to remount.

Normally recovery of some equity from sale of a trailer in the future isn't a good plan, but the resale value of an Oliver does mean you should take it into consideration. Much depends on your age, expected usage and RV experience, but even selling in five years should get a minimum of 40-50% back. I'd watch for a used one and have the cash to move quickly, but wouldn't be shy about extending yourself on the purchase, as long as it doesn't put your other financial needs at risk.

that's my quandary. I may try a section with the VHB I have. Worse case I do it right when I get back. Solo trip and I don't use that bed, so not a big inconvenience. Just looks tacky. 😉

I’m 6’3” and I think the twin bed will be a deal breaker for you. You really need to spend some time in one. Full size sleeping across?

Was strange. One year old this past May….and of course, heading out next Sunday. 🙂

I assume they used two narrow strips to keep the edges close to the hull, but do see what you mean. I noticed a strip down the middle would be over the valley where the hulls connect, and thus no contact. Should be easy fix with VHB in any case. thx for link

Apparently my trim got tired. Thinking about just replacing with 3M molding trim adhesive roll. Looks like what Oliver used. other suggestions?

I know of an Oliver woodsmith that should add that to his catalog. 🙂

Yup, they did. I was somewhat surprised in my new-to-me 2020 that they didn't have outlets in the places you mentioned. Really miss the one under the dinette table, like I had in the Casita. Weird having it in the aisle. I do need to go look under the bed overhang, maybe there is something there...but not obvious if so.

FWIW, be sure and check the screws holding the top plate on. I got the upgrade kit and one screw was very loose and three others marginally so.

I've been running these for years. Awesome and very common amongst the overloading community. Just be sure and buy direct or from known Amazon source. They are so well thought of, clones have been a problem. https://antigravitybatteries.com/productline/micro-starts/

Maybe you are paying for a quieter generator for you and others around you? What is the DB difference? Remember each DB doubles the volume.

Before finding my one-owner (one 1200 mile trip) 2020 unit I was in the same situation. If you are buying a fully optioned unit the price change really isn’t that dramatic, they just bundled everything. The major changes were the new axles and mandatory dual awnings, and Lithium upgrade options. If they were replacing the AC I’d wait in a heartbeat, but otherwise getting an extra season made it worth buying a 2020 for me.

Link?

Steve, I think you should write or dictate a history of Oliver development, to include all the internal insight you have....to be published posthumously, of course. 🙂

Might as well put this here... I’ve had my Andersen frame brackets at 90lbs for my latest trip and found the lower bolt slips forward. I had similar issues at higher torque, but I’m afraid to go too high due to the aluminum frame. It looks like the stop screw keeps the upper bracket from moving. Should I not worry that the brackets aren’t at 90 degrees with the frame and just adjust the chain accordingly? Am I the only one with slippage? Would be nice if they’d just weld a surface seam at the factory to serve as a full-stop. FWIW, Service said 90ft-lbs was the spec, but said they were pretty sure the techs just cranked them down by feel at delivery. 🙂

First world problem, but while my initial thought was I don't need Bluetooth for AC either, after living with the DB level and recycling time of the 2020 Dometic I'd be happy to be able turn it on or off, or change temp, from bed as needed vs having to get up multiple times and try and read the LCD screen. 😉

Oliver could leap frog the domestic market with component specs like this, particularly given their low build volume. The downside would be lack of component support, whereas most of the built-for-volume quality of ACs, fridge, and solar have wide service networks. https://kimberleykampers.com.au/luxury-off-road-caravans/kruiser-t-class/#specs A few of these have been imported, mostly when the Australian dollar was weak a few years ago. That said, their is a dealer in Ohio now.

FWIW.. from the folks that can't bring a quiet AC unit to the US market....press release. https://expeditionportal.com/dometic-acquires-zamp-solar/

Just to close the loop, I talked to Service and they agreed just replacing the light was the best solution. At $6 each I just ordered four and will do them as needed. Just need to get my rivet kit back from my friend that bought my Casita. Thought I was out of the rivet business 🙂

Interesting. Since they are targeting 5/week now and folks are announcing Feb/Mar delivery dates. My original delivery was to be in Jan with hull number 995 or so, if I remember correctly. That would be 60 weeks of backlog.

Craig, did Oliver Service give you a retro-fit labor estimate to do all of this, if you had it done there?

I queried Craig on the Oliver Facebook page and thought I'd recap his answers here for continuity.. Ralph>> I know you worked closely with Oliver, but wasn’t sure what they provided. Did you source all your major parts via Oliver or just the Lithionics? "Craig Short Author It was a team effort as I originally planned to have it done at the factory in the fall, but my Agm’s died in February. All the wiring, cables, buss bars etc. were locally sourced from Marine Suppliers. Lithionics was able to supply the GTX315 batteries, Xantrex XC2000 inverter/charger & Bluetooth controller, and the Victron Orion 12/12-30a chargers. (They resell those brands.) Oliver provided guidance on how to disable the 7pin, how to disable the Progressive on board converter and how to hook up the new inverter to existing circuits. They also suggested where & how to safely drill holes for new 6awg DC/Dc charger wires and how to use the Through Hull CableClam for waterproof Hull penetration. Ford Body Builder Service told me where to hook up my 6 AWG wires and how to put in a new chassis ground lug. https://fordbbas.com/home"

I have a 2020 LE2. All the touch lights work fine, except for the two over the sink and stove. The one over the stove is intermittent in whether it will work, but if I turn it off, it may not come back on for a bit if immediately trying again. The one over the sink is somewhat more regular, but is dimmer when it comes on and obviously getting less current. The AC plug over the sink work fine. All of this while on AC power. I pulled the covers and the wire triggers seem to be fine, when they do work. I pulled the cabinet flooring and exposed the wires to each, juggling them a bit to see if it was an obviously loose connection, but no apparent impact on making the lights work, or not. Any other thoughts as to where to look? Thanks...

My new-to-me LE II has Southern Mattress pieces for the split beds, which are great for sleeping, but the original cushions for the dinette. The original cushions are pretty soft, particularly compared to my Casita's cushions, i.e., tend to bottom out. For those that have replaced the foam in the cushions or bought new ones, how did you spec the foam...or did you just sit on different samples at the upholstery shop? My 2002 Casita cushions were made in Waco, so I may just call and see what that shop can do, but thought I query the brain trust on here also.