Ronbrink

When the Xantrex comes ON for brief periods, as you observed, is the ‘charger’ feature being activated?

Seems like a good plan, really like the power flow control switches. I assume you will be using clamps on the hose barb fittings.

Yes, that is the same model PI EMS installed in my OTT.

Excellent!

Any brand spiral cutout saw that uses the spiral router bits would work for this intended application. To be clear, the saw feature needed is a circle cutting attachment, as illustrated below. Mine is actually a corded DeWalt, which came with a like attachment. I only mentioned RotoZip because of their notoriety and I really like the quality of their multipurpose cutting bits. In using this tool for cutting circles, I always ‘test cut’ a hole radius setting using thin plywood or sheetrock to ensure a proper fitting cutout.

FYI, my forward AC outlet is powered via the Xantrex, thereby the Dometic CFX 75DZ in the truck bed can be operated on AC when underway or in camp, if need be. A DC-DC charger more than makes up for respective amp draws on the house batteries by it and/or the OTT’s Norcold. However, I too mostly rely on a portable power station to run the Dometic, but on occasion when that power source is depleted due to insufficient solar input, an extension cord from said outlet to fridge is a viable alternative. I have also run an extension from the Oliver for use of a battery charger on the power station while simultaneously running the fridge on that DC source. That said, you may not need to install the additional Anderson, unless planning to operate in inclement weather while underway.

In an email response from OTT to the service ticket submitted, I was informed they would have to consult with Xantrex and report back. My service inquiry read as follow: I would like confirmation on the charging ability, specific to my Xantrex Freedom 2000 (non-bluetooth model). I have been paying more attention to the charge aspect of this unit since upgrading to LFPs and installing a Victron SmartShunt. To the best of my knowledge and observations made, there is an initial charge cycle (80A) when first connected to shore power, but no further charge cycles thereafter unless ‘manually’ restarting by either disconnecting/reconnecting the power cord or by flipping the main circuit breaker Off/On. Is this the norm for my Xantrex or is it not operating correctly? I did use the remote panel to reconfigure the unit settings for use of LFPs, but would appreciate knowing the recommended values to ensure optimum use. 2020 OLEll, 579 OTT’s response: This is something that I am going to send to xantrex to get their thoughts on. It typically takes a couple of days to hear back from them. I will let you know as soon as they respond with what they say.

I do plan to install a master switch regardless, but meanwhile took your advice and submitted a service ticket; will report on Oliver’s response. Again thanks!

Good idea! Although, as I understand it, my older Xantrex Freedom (non-bluetooth) model is operating as designed. However, I could be wrong about that, could just be a setting issue to remedy so will take your advice. Thanks

Yes, exact match to the stock outlet on our 2020 OLEll, 579; Amazon purchase. In good keeping, recently purchased two Furion solar ports to enable suitcase panel and battery charging, one at rear and another at the forward receptacle location; eBay purchase.

I see two OTTs, but only one dog, so ruling out double vision. Nice setup!

Ugh, I always say “ don’t confuse an already confused man”! My Xantrex will not function in the same manner as yours, it only has an initial charge cycle when first placed on shore power; for subsequent charging it requires a ‘manual’ restart. Thus, parasitic draws are, therefore, an issue in my case. 2020 OLEll, 579.

A RotoZip spiral saw, or like product, will make circle and straight cuts much easier, faster and precise. Used mine when installing a forward receptacle in the propane doghouse; the result, very smooth cut edges in the fiberglass. In close quarters, the spiral bit can be set to a depth slightly beyond the fiberglass thickness. As 2008RN suggest, proper PPE and a shop vac should be used.

True that!

There is some truth to this, but then the bikes, griddle, fire pit, chairs, tables, etc. also add to the overall “futz” when RVing! I guess ‘organization’ is the key to managing said cargo and then there are a few ‘work arounds’ that come into play, as well. Although my Westinghouse 4500DF lives at the truck-bed bulkhead, it is readily accessible once our folding ebikes are unloaded at camp, if needed. I don’t use it that much, but find comfort in having it in the event of an extended roadside breakdown or other emergency situations such as hurricane evacuations. However, I soon learned a smaller genny would suffice for most of our generator needs (think air conditioning) and thus, a DuroMax 2200 was obtained. I carry a 5-gal jerrycan of non-ethanol gas as backup fuel for the generators, but primarily operate each on propane. That said, I also carry a spare 30# propane tack next to the WH and run a hose from it to the tailgate for convenient use of the DM, as necessary when traveling. The spare tank is also a match to the OTT’s propane tanks.

Good plan! It didn’t take me long to do the same after realizing the need when bringing the OTT to the house from storage for travel prep or maintenance. Also installed a 50A outlet for my son to use with his motorhome when visiting. 2020 OLEll, 579

Would that “outside” location be ‘inside’ the battery compartment or some other accessible place? I see where some have mounted the switch atop the batteries.

As ScubaRx eluded, permanent mounting options are very limited, many owners just make use of the cargo basket with or without modification. That said, the “best way to attach” may in fact be the ‘only way to attach’, that being via the cargo basket or perhaps a mounting plate if no basket. Since I did not opt for said basket or want to trailer-mount, I adopted a couple of alternatives routinely used depending on my power needs; I carry two generators under cap, a 4500W for total and a 2200W for specific power service. I can either suspend or lower for ground positioning the larger, tailgate or tongue position the smaller (note the lock and chain for securement).

Thanks all for your advice, once again guilty of ‘overthinking’! Take pleasure in knowing you have successfully changed my ‘continuous charge’ mind set. Followed up on GJ’s recommendation and confirmed my batteries are to be maintained in the same manner as his BattleBorns, as are lithiums in general. Also to MAX Burner’s point, I have ordered a master cutoff switch to lessen the worrisome battery drawdown issue. To SeaDawg’s point, I don’t think the inverter is ever actually Off unless the battery power is totally isolated; that 1Ah draw indicated on the EMS is likely that of the inverter in ‘standby mode’, or am I ‘overthinking ‘ again!

You and others have convinced me it would be money well spent! Thanks

You are exactly right, isolating the battery bank is a solution. However, my OLEll did not come with a battery cut-off switch. That said, I should probably install the switch for good measure. In fact I bought the one mentioned when upgrading to LFPs, but returned it because my Son said the Xantrex inverter/charger should keep them continuously topped-off. His statement was based on experience with his former motorhome, wherein a Magnum I/C did just that when on shore power or generator. Unbeknownst to us both, the Xantrex model I have only has an initial charge cycle. But here’s my perceived dilemma: I have read where owners able to utilize solar can keep their batteries continuously charged when in storage and not being used, thus no reliance on the Xantrex in that regard. My thinking is, and please tell me if wrong, that since I don’t have solar the alternative, i.e. dedicated, lithium-specific charger, would do the same when on shore power.

I went “here” and found these to be ‘non-friction hinges’, thus possibly the disparity in price Patriot noted. However, Amazon.us does offer a ‘friction hinge kit’ consisting of a pair. They appear to be the same as those rich.dev purchased from the Amazon.ca site, based on the compatible Lippert door Series listed in the product Description.

Earth to Anybody out there!

Good one GJ, go Red Bull! Actually your quote credited to me, “I’ve been using this grease from Reese”, is that of Frank C. I’m advocating the Mission Automotive Hitch Ball Lubricant. The ‘soiling’ issue as subsided since picking up a trailer ball cover from Academy, works great!

Actually, aluminum bar was used; lighter weight and can be worked much like wood. Although the fiberglass bed edge worked, as evidenced by the first set of pics (above) with the original ‘black’ tabletop, it proved to be too weak (think flex and stress) when the table was fully extended over the bed. However, with said weaknesses and inconsistencies found when trying to fit the street side bed, yet another of many iterations in this project was implemented.