Ronbrink

I’ve heard that before about the Truma needing a soft start, hopefully there will be a more feasible solution on the horizon. There was no upgrade option for a/c with my 2020 OLEll other than adding a soft start, which I decided to DIY to save some $$. Also, I was disappointed Oliver started using the Dometic 11,000 rather than 13,500 BTU unit in my model year. Although it does the job, Texas heat has often left me wishing for the heftier version. And then there’s the noise issue, which is why you and so many others went the Truma route! I have never considered switching to the Truma, mainly because of the high cost, but have plans to dump the ‘noise maker’ and up the BTUs. My replacement of choice is the Atmos 4.4; 15,000 BTU a/c, 12,000 BTU heat pump; more energy efficient and quieter! We’ll see. Regarding the use of your generator, have you tried the ECO mode? I seem to recall others reporting ECO allowed use with a/c operation, but that may be for the Dometics.

A Jackery 2000 pro will not run any air conditioner, better suited for small AC appliances or DC supply/charging purposes. Yes, a small dual fuel inverter generator can be used to power the Truma, at minimum 2200W. I carry a dedicated 30# propane tank under cap, which will provide up to twenty hours of a/c comfort for long evening/night periods of cooling. Once that supply is exhausted, I can tap into one of the OTT-mounted propane tanks unless time is taken to refill. I stage the genny on the tongue of the trailer secured with a chain. I primarily use this setup for overnight stays while underway to a campground that has power service. Depending on how an Oliver is wired dictates whether or not the Truma can be used via the inverter. I had to install a dedicated transfer switch to be able the run on DC. If capable, then solar and/or a small generator will sustain limited use of the a/c in actual boondocking situations.

You may want to present your question in Mechanical & Technical Tips of the forum for a better chance of response.

@jd1923 I installed a Victron SmartShunt along with the LFP upgrade to the Oliver, as well as one in my portable power station, which has dedicated solar. The VictronConnect app is a great tool for monitoring our DC systems!

There is an app for use with the Xantrex BT remote only, not the standard Freedom X as in my year model. With the BT remote, the app is of benefit in better dialing in settings with ease, not sure how it would compare to that of Victron beyond that.

The On/Off feature of my Freedom X remote stopped working several months ago, maybe even longer but just didn’t notice. Last month I bought a new replacement on Amazon and attempted the pairing procedure upon install, but the new unit didn’t resolve the issue so it was returned. I have in the past and am currently now leaving the Xantrex turned On full time by way of the units power control button. From all I have read, there is no problem leaving it On, other than the continual draw on the battery(ies) when not connected to shore power. The only downside when on shore power, if the power is lost one may not be aware of a switch to DC and find a low battery situation.

As some may recall, I have dealt with an issue regarding the ‘charging aspect’ of my Xantrex XC 2000; specifically its’ inability to keep my LFP battery bank at full charge when in storage on shore power. When first powered up, the Xantrex will provide an initial charge cycle, but thereafter no further charge maintenance; thus requiring a weekly visit to the Cow Barn to manually instigate another initial charge cycle to bring the bank up to par. In talking with a Xantrex tech on this matter back when, I was told the unit was likely defective and in need of replacement. No bueno! Since no issues with the ‘inverter aspect’ I opted to install an independent dedicated Cerbo/charger combo to satisfy my charging needs, which has been working great! Problem solved, right? Here’s a recent observation! In looking at the following chart provided upon request by Oliver, notice in particular Settings 20, 22 and 23. (Disregard the text statement at the bottom of chart). This chart is representative of most I’ve seen, updated to address the various recommended Xantrex settings for both Oliver models per battery type. However, I recently learned why Settings 22 and 23 are blacked out and that a charging profile can be customized via these settings, following a change in Setting 20. When scrolling through Setting 20, I selected USE (User defined) rather than LFP(LiFePo), as illustrated above. In doing so, I was then able to access Settings 22 (Custom Absorption Voltage) and 23 (Custom Float Voltage). In general, most LFP manufacturers will have an absorption value ranging from 14.2-14.6 volts; a float value may or may not be provided since not really needed for that battery type. Given I now have LFPs, the custom values entered in my application were 14.6 and 13.6, respectively. As best I can tell, making the above changes to these three settings caused the ‘charging aspect’ of my Xantrex to operate as designed. My battery bank has been maintained at 100% for the past several weeks since, which is in keeping with claim that the Xantrex ‘uses a multistage charging process to keep batteries at full charge when connected to shore power’. Go figure!

The list is skewed when opened and will not allow me to edit. Please add 2 for the BBQ, thanks.

That was exactly what I did. Used a light and mirror from within the forward dinette seat hatch to eyeball a prospective point of entry; care must be taken to avoid existing plumbing. Once identified, a 1/8” drill bit was used from outside taking care to only penetrate the hull thickness. Then another look from within to verify a clear path with no obstruction for a larger hole to run the cables.

The Anderson Environmental Boot is the only way I know to ensure a waterproof/dust-proof connection with the SB Series products. Although a product-specific mount is not offered, I was able to improvise a secure thru-mount at my TV bumper. 1of2 mating boots required. Custom hanger bracket bent and welded to my specific application. The slight protrusion, as mounted, is of no hindrance. A familiar pic showing bumper-mounted boot. A familiar pic showing mated boots.

Like many, I have been tempted to purchase from Amazon or eBay for such incentives as less money and free shipping, but it only takes one negative review that a product is a ‘knockoff’ to bring me back to reality! To answer your question, no I have never had or seen a failure as you described. For piece of mind, I buy direct from powerwerx.com to ensure authenticity.

@jd1923 The Renogy 400W portable solar panel will likely be my next want, but for now pending installation of the Atmos 4.4 is forefront; one mod at a time!

My 2020 OLEll line drips behind the rear driver side tire, the tip of the drain hose is visible from underneath. It is routed upward between the inner and outer hulls to the rooftop Dometic Penguin ll in my case. Although I have never had a need, a heavy monofilament fishing or string trimmer line could safely be used to probe for any obstruction. You may want to get a visual on the drain hose tip to verify location and if the condensate is dripping from it. If not then a more involved service is likely needed.

If using a water pressure regulator at the spigot, and you should, check the gauge and adjust the water flow to increase to a safe operating pressure. You may want to review the following post ‘Low water pressure in bathroom’ for remedies others have undertaken to resolve low pressure issues.

The one that leads to their next adventure!

If you have the grease fittings (Zerks) then you are equipped with Dexter’s E-Z Lube spindles on your axles, which are subject to routine maintenance and inspection of the hub bearings and seals. The hub components can be greased periodically based on usage via the Zerks; but at some point the hub bearings and seals will require inspection for wear, at which point the hubs are completely removed to service. The end of the spindle should have a grease cap to which a rubber lube plug is fitted, and will look like this:

@Steph and Dud B, you are CLEARED FOR TAKEOFF!

Indeed, used them for my DC-DC install three years ago at the TV rear bumper connection. Not only a great waterproof connection when underway in inclement weather, but dust proof, as well! All things Anderson: In similar manner, made an extension to utilize the rear bumper port to power my Dometic fridge/freezer staged under cap in the TV bed, as needed. Anderson conversion to either run my VIAIR from the rear bumper or TV battery. Anderson conversion with my portable power station (staged to run the aforementioned Dometic) to easily charge, as necessary, when the TV mounted solar array input is dismal. I simply run an extension cord from the front outlet at the propane housing to power the charger via the Oliver’s inverter.

A few other options for adding USB ports: Converts existing cigarette lighter ports to dual USBs. Converts existing AC duplex outlet to multipurpose outlet with USBs. I installed these under the dinette table and curbside bed. Power strip expands AC outlets and provides USBs. I used this at the nightstand before installing the following outlets. I installed two of these in the nightstand tabletop.

@jd1923 I just use some good ole’ elbow grease; cheap, effective, readily available and self-satisfying. There are risks however, and fully understand why many hire out the task.

I’m on the ‘Happy Camper’ train, never an odor issue! Add as recommended following each dump cycle to both holding tanks, as well as a drain valve lubricant a couple times a year.

I did a brief preliminary test while at the Cow Barn yesterday, a 15 minute run at TV idle. No drop in TV battery voltage while running its’ a/c full blast, and the 40A DC-DC charger and DPll (High setting) simultaneously. The run duration was limited due to the fact that the OTT was inside rather than outside the storage shed, whereby exhaust fumes would not have been an issue. The TV’s alternator gauge indicated a steady +14V output throughout the test, a vast improvement over the aging stock alternator. Looking forward to a planned trip next month to see how it performs, but very encouraged by the results of this test. TV at idle DPll current draw offset by DC-DC DPll turned off, DC-DC output (minus misc. OTT draw) DC-DC off, OTT misc. draw

I can only state ‘what I did’! Started off with a Renogy 20A DC-DC charger and the 50’ WndyNation 4 AWG wire set @rideadeuce mentions. The larger than necessary gauge wire was installed to accommodate any future upgrade in charger size, which eventually came into play. The charger was installed in the rear dinette seat hatch, mounted vertically on the interior wall, in like manner as the Xantrex, but on the opposite side just forward of the above battery box/pantry. This position allowed for the shortest cable run to the battery bank, being four 6V Trojan T-105s at the time, and this charger was the alternative of choice since my OTT did not have solar. However in short order, I ungraded to LFPs to be able to run the a/c via the inverter, and subsequently upgraded to a Renogy 40A DC-DC to further offset draw on the battery bank when running the a/c while underway or during brief stops with the TV at idle. This practice proved to be too stressful on the aging stock alternator and thus a high output alternator was installed. I convey all of this knowing that you are fully aware, but there may be some that read this and find it helpful information. I simply choose Renogy as a cost saving measure, half that of a Victron, and have been very pleased. A Victron SmartShunt was also installed at time of the lithium upgrade and the Renogy’s output can be monitored via the VictronConnect app.

@jd1923 I recently used AWG 6 ferrules when installing the Victron 30A charger in my Oliver, very handy tool and end terminals to have!

Not sure of the year model when OTT changed from 14/2 to 12/2 Romex, as installed in my 2020 OLEll.