Ronbrink

Looking forward to your forthcoming post on the install! A couple of things that may or may not be specific to my Renogy DC-DC charger regarding installation: 1) Because I choose to mount the charger remotely inside the Oliver and not in the TV, I decided it best to run a negative cable from the starter battery, rather than the typical ground-to-chassis as done in some instances when separate battery banks share a mutual grounding, like a motorhome for instance. I know when a trailer is hitched to a vehicle grounding occurs, but I find no comfort that it constitutes the adequate grounding necessary to fully safeguard the system; 2) the Renogy manual specifies use of ANL fuses with their systems; and 3) since the charger is in the trailer, use of the D+ ignition wire was not utilized and thus, the solenoid install serves the same purpose. I hope this provides a better understanding of actions taken in my install. I have read where others, for reasons unknown, are not getting the rated amperage from their units. I am pleased to report that is not the case in my situation!

Initially I installed a ‘resettable’ fuse, but found at times it to trip due to excessive under hood temps during the hotter months of the year. I now use an ANL setup, specifically an ANL Blue Sea Systems 5005 fuse block with insulating cover and 60A fuse. Problem solved! Also, note the solenoid mounted next to the battery. I did not want current powering the DC-DC charger when the Anderson was connected and the TV motor was not running. I also opted to run a negative cable from the bumper-mounted Anderson to the TV B-, rather than a ground-to-frame. Yes, an added cost and measure, but to me the best alternative to ensure optimum performance of my DC-DC setup. I can also utilize this Anderson to power my VIAIR portable air compressor and Dometic dual zone refrigerator/freezer, as necessary. The dedicated DC-DC trailer cable’s Anderson must be connected to the corresponding connector on the TV to power the charger.

I understand ALL within the ‘nonconforming’ group are in need of inspection, just read too much into the recall disclosure and was unclear if there would be SOME found to be in good order. That said, why the need to have it inspected in the first place ?, just set up an appointment to have it replaced. I now know that ALL in said group are in need of replacement, thank you and others for that conformation!

Me neither, but I can’t find any wood to knock on!

We had a very rare Texas Snow Day yesterday, rather more properly deemed a Snow Half-Day! Taking advantage of this unusual low temp event to ‘cold smoke’ some sushi grade Scottish Salmon today, following two days of preparations. Looking forward to ‘rolling smoke’ through tonight until temps start to rise mid-day tomorrow. After which a trip to the Cow Barn to see how the Oliver survived this cold snap, winterization is also a very rare event in Texas, as well! UPDATE: Perfect Nova lox!

Conversely, I like my Y at the spigot for max pressure to the auxiliary hose, not on the pressure regulated side.

@Galileo I experienced the exact same issue with cold air intrusion via the heater vents. Since in a CG with electric hookup, I was using my small space heater rather than the gas furnace; this was not in freezing conditions. As a temporary fix, I taped plastic film over all of the vents for the duration of my stay. Prior to covering the vents, I noticed running the wet bath vent exacerbated the issue. We generally don’t camp in cold conditions, so never really tried to chase down this problem. I too would like to know why this was happening. Thanks for raising the question.

I’m also in the experienced DIYer camp, but Truma products are ‘hands off’ when it comes to their and Oliver’s policies regarding warranty and recall issues. I would hate to have to pay for a new unit if another recall or failure occurred, and a full replacement was required.

May I suggest consideration of the Dreiha Atmos 4.4 15K AC/12K Heat 120V from SDG!

Think ‘backup’, just in case!

We use CG showers to the extent possible, meaning if well maintained and clean. On our first day of camp arrival, we like to drive around for site familiarization and inspect the showers therein. Usually a choice pick is obvious, other times not so much; but a selection is made and we go with it. Oftentimes our selection is in lesser used camp areas where demand is lower and thus, no waiting! Yes. we usually have to drive a bit further, but we fold that late evening excursion into our wildlife viewing hunts.

Same here, the Y valve with Eleys for an extra ‘camp hose’ is a very handy addition with many uses. There are times when I prefer not to use the rear bumper as a support for the blue water filter, so I carry a short section of PVC pipe as a ground standoff, works great. Also, the bumper protrusion on either side can be used to hang coiled excess water hose and even propane hose at the rear port, if equipped. Some pics for you and others:

I checked my s/n yesterday and it falls within the ‘nonconforming’ group. But I remain confused, are ALL of the units installed and deemed ‘nonconforming’ (according to the serial number) in need of the recall replacement or just SOME identified upon inspection to have a loose burner bracket assembly? Maybe someone can clarify.

Yes, thanks for the inspiration! I purchased some magnetic catches (set of four) for $7, and asked my Son to design and 3D print a couple of mounting blocks. I decided to use the magnetic halves from two paired sets for a stronger, single catch. Here is what I did: Mounting blocks with recess for flush fitment of magnetic catch components, shown here as a pair. View of optional mounting holes and longer screws for vertical attachment. Catch components screw-mounted into block recess, shown as a pair. Center interior door attachment, horizontal mount using screws. Center interior freezer attachment, vertical mount using Alien Tape rather than screws as a preliminary precaution. Completed install. I’m very pleased with the holding power of the dual magnet approach, now for some field testing!

A few years ago I came across Talasbuan, a YT on the daily life of a couple living off grid in Northern Sweden. Perseverance and determination come to mind when thinking back about the lifestyle they adopted. Admittedly, I only ‘binge view’ now, but to date they have produced close to 150 episodes, impressive!

EDC flashlights, knives and …., well some may recognize my other favorite!

I need to get B to watch this vid in hopes she’ll have more appreciation for the wet bath!

BoyToys, gotta love ‘em! My new EDC light, RovyVon!

Good advise! Here’s the Amazon alternative I used:

True, but the storage facility is full of RVs and boats plugged into the electrical system much like a park, I mainly installed for RV use when traveling, as marketed, but reaping benefit when in storage, as well. You are correct about residential systems, which are generally much more stable other than power outages,

@Cameron, I had the same problem at my storage facility, the Hughes Autoformer RV voltage booster I installed helped a lot! Setting the Xantrex charge rate lower, as others have suggested, is a helpful measure!

I made mine using a section of an old swimming pool telescopic pole and a glass lifting suction cup handle holder cut in half. Collapses for easy stowage when not in use. Stainless steel ‘S’ hooks used for shoes, hats trash bag, etc..

Distinguishing black from gray water is definitive, so concentrating on the black tank valve should be your priority. Regarding valve blockage, some owners have experienced the tank hole cutout being the culprit. I experienced leakage once, turned out the pull handle was turned in such a manner as not to be fully seated. Both black and gray handles are in a recessed box and can hangup on the edge if not paying attention to proper orientation.

It could if you know there will be a really good ground, but why take a chance with sensitive electronics? That said, 1) best practice is to have a dedicated cable from the battery and 2) many DC-DC manufactures recommend it. I paid $115 for cable in 2020, here’s the current price. I used every bit of the 50’ cable with the Renogy 40A mounted under the rearward dinette seat hatch, your 60’ calculation should suffice.

Our 2020 OLEll 579 was ordered with the stock Brightway battery bank, Xantrex 2000W inverter and no solar. I soon ditched the Brightways and installed four Trojan T-105 6V batteries my Son gifted me when he upgraded his motorhome to LiFePO4s. Last year I upgraded to LFPs, specifically two LiTime 230Ah batteries. I changed settings in the Xantrex for the new battery type and disconnected the vehicle charging wire at the 7-way cable connector. I, as well as @topgun2, have detailed the installation of said batteries in respective posts. I have had no issues using my Xantrex with this setup, and have also taken measures to operate the a/c on battery, as well.