Ronbrink

This is a great idea, but with no room to haul a bucket we carry collapsible water containers and a dedicated hose to draw water into the tank; stow under the street side bed behind the stabilizer jack assembly. EDIT: Original comment stated a ‘silicone’ hose, but actually it is a flexible PVC hose, as detailed in further comment.

Did the unit sold for that price have a soft starter device installed? I plan to sell my Dometic with a Micro-Air Easy Start and thinking that would up the sell price somewhat.

In the meantime, I suggest using OdoBan to mask the unpleasant smell. Spray inside the vanity, into the black tank area from within the forward dinette seat hatch and any other suspect areas.

I have topped these ramps a couple of times, that’s where the stabilizer jacks really shine to lift the body a tad more for level without lifting the tires anymore.

The Anderson Jack Blocks are great, like that they have magnets to ease attachment and centering. As for the front stabilizer, I use a Rapid Jack on its’ side. I have used it as intended to change a tire, despite claims it won’t work on an Oliver. It stows alongside its’ cousins in the garage!

Great genny, I have the Westinghouse version of the same; really like the remote start/stop FOB.

Very nice upgrade, recently installed one in an OLEll as detailed in my post in Ollie Modifications. What is the total Ah of your battery bank?

Furnace is not a problem, but running the a/c off battery for more than a few hours will be too tasking for the average battery bank. I carry a small dual fuel genny and use propane for overnight stays when a/c is needed off-grid. That said, lengthy travel stops for rest, lunch, shopping, etc. are prime times to use the a/c on battery since when back underway the DC-DC will likely recharge as you reach the day’s destination.

Just saw this. If the 10A fuse has posed no issues with use of the 100W solar panels, then no need to change.

I noticed in review of @rideadeuce’s install post that his 2018 OLEll, #308, with a Dometic 13,500 BTU unit did not have that feature. In his situation the straight piece of self-adhesive foam was placed onto the rear bottom of the Atmos, as I initially did, and served its’ purpose to support and level. Oliver started installing DPll 11,000 BTU units in my year model (2020), which may have prompted a change over the former 13,500 BTU unit installs.

This long awaited swap-mod is now checked off my to-do list! Like many, I tolerated the noisy Dometic Penguin ll long enough; so glad I was finally able to take decisive action with this install. After a couple years of mulling over the various replacement models being marketed, a unit emerged that caught my attention; the newly available Atmos 4.4 seemingly met all of my expectations. I will forego the removal of the Dometic, here is how I proceeded forward: First and foremost, all AC and DC power sources were turned OFF! Scaffolding and equipment/supplies were then staged for Dometic ‘liftoff’ and subsequent Atmos ‘lunar landing’ (only appropriate since I live a couple miles from the NASA Mission Control Center in Houston). Roof area in need of cleaning. Notice the raised fiberglass landing on my year model and that the former condensate drain tube was simply disconnected rather than cutoff. Roof area throughly cleaned and prepped. I decided to adhere the square self-adhesive foam roof seal directly onto the fiberglass and then apply non-leveling Dicor around the cutout perimeter to further ensure the best seal possible. In positioning the foam seal, care was taken to center it as evenly possible, thereby allowing about 1/4-3/8” of exposed fiberglass to lay a bead of the Dicor and finger smooth to finish. Interior view of the Atmos being positioned over the roof cutout. Note the use of the mounting bolts as a guide, as recommended by SDG. Because the ‘rough cut’ edges of the layers of fiberglass (inner and outer hulls, and spacial filler) were inconsistent, I used the foam seal as a reference to accurately center and align the unit; distances measured to each respective bolt. Initially, installation instructions were followed by adhering the supplied straight piece of self-adhesive foam onto the bottom of the unit as a rear support, but it did not make contact with the roof due to relief of the aforementioned fiberglass landing. Alternatively, the foam piece was cut in half and each adhered onto the fiberglass, in like manner as the square seal, along the outer edges of said landing. This adaptation proved very effective in application and purpose, as the last of the next three pics demonstrates. Now that the exterior unit is properly positioned and supported, it’s back inside to further installation. As a side note, I made use of a portable a/c to buffer the heat and humidity of the day! Although my son helped with the heavy lifting and positioning, I cut him loose and completed the remaining tasks solo. Before proceeding, I used foil tape to treat the end of the aforementioned condensate drain tube and secure it to the side. Next the installation of the fabric air plate duct subassembly was started (provided Dreiha Atmos 4.4 Manual details the process). Note I used foil tape on both the upper (at Atmos bottom) and lower (at mounting frame) duct plates, even though most installs viewed applied to the mounting frame plate only. Between the upper and lower duct plate installs, the ceiling assembly mounting frame was bolted in place and hand torqued using a screwdriver only (torque specified in Manual). The AC power connection was very straightforward. The ceiling assembly’s junction box cover was removed, a strain relief fitting installed at one end (the other end had a preinstalled protector) and respective wires routed inside. I reused the Wago Lever-Nuts from the Dometic install, but first tinned the stranded wires of the Atmos lead for optimum assurance in application; electrical tape was used to further secure the Wago connectors. Ground wires were secured per the Manual. The junction box cover was then replaced, DC thermostat wire bundle loom wrapped and tucked away for future use, and ceiling grille fastened in place. . I’m very pleased with this mod, quality of the Atmos and ease of installation! I should mention that SDG preinstalled a SoftStartRV. I will provide an update once the furnace wiring and thermostat mount is completed. A special shoutout to @rideadeuce for forging the way with his install of an Atmos!

@Patriot I can’t help but think that these MSRP markdowns to a lower NO HAGGLE PRICE as anything more than a marketing gimmick!

The Beech Lane and Anderson brands of levelers look to be the same in appearance and design other than in color, black and red, respectively. Although there is a diverse selection of levelers available, this tear drop ramp-type leveler pairs well with OTTs, especially when used in conjunction with a cell phone app leveling systems as @Patriot and @jd1923 refer. Reason being these systems will indicate if leveling adjustment needs to occur side-to-side, then the leveling ramp(s) can be positioned on the side to be raised and vehicle driven onto them until level according to the app. Set the TV emergency brake, position the wedge(s) of these setups, detach trailer, complete front-to-back leveling per the app utilizing the forward stabilizing jack.

Actually, great idea! I have a Renogy 40A DC-DC and run my a/c on LFPs via inverter while underway quite often; the total amp draw by the a/c is offset by the output of said charger. I should mention, no solar. In some instances, owners run for long duration to keep pets comfortable inside the Oliver when in transit. The only problem I’ve experienced was an aging alternator in my TV; the vehicle battery was not being properly maintained, but installation of a new high output alternator resolved that issue.

Saturday’s install was a success! Soon I will post ‘Dreiha Atmos 4.4 Home Install’, but for now a few pics. BTW, sitting in the Oliver at home enjoying my morning coffee, Atmos whisper ‘cool’; I can actually hear myself thinking of things to come!

Fun fact, Airstream once had a trailer that was painted white called an Argosy.

An all too common experience for Oliver owners, but then it’s nice to be noticed! I also get “Is that a Casita?”, it’s easy to point out the similarities; but then someone once asked “Is that an Airstream?”, to which I had no reasonable response!

The OPD safety valve built into the selected propane tank may have inadvertently been tripped, thus flow can be fully or partially restricted and prevent ignition at the refrigerator. This can be caused by opening the tank valve too fast, best to slowly open for the first 1/4 turn then proceed to fully open, or a line was open and the OPD sensed a leak and shutdown. You may first try switching the regulator to the other tank to see if adequate pressure is then available to ignite at the refrigerator. Did you by chance check pressure at the cooktop to see if it would ignite? You might try before switching the regulator, that could be telling. Now, if you end up switching the regulator to the other tank and still have issue, that tank’s OPD may have tripped, as well. If the problem persists, you can next try resetting the OPDs by first turning the tank valves completely off, then remove the hose pigtail tank connectors from each; subsequently reconnect the pigtails after checking that no lines are open. Now open each respective tank valve as suggested above and see if the fix is in (refrigerator ignites). Good luck!

The smaller box in the background.

Currently targeting this coming Saturday, been dodging outer bans of scattered rainfall from Francine’s havoc with our coastal neighbor. I’m prepared, maybe too much so; totally bought into @MAX Burner’s “One is None, Two is One” and @Patriot’s “Two is one and one is none” concepts. May strap the spare Atmos to the rear bumper!

@rideadeuce I’m nearing time of installation for the Atmos and have seen several methods for affixing the square roof seal. In your application, the foam seal was first adhered on the unit and then a bead of Dicor on the fiberglass around the roof cutout. Did you specify or was it SDG’s preferred method of choice? I’ve seen use of double-sided Eternabond Tape in similar manner with other installations (SOBs), as well as first adhering the roof seal directly to the roof with no sealant applied between the seal and unit; claim being water will never reach the top of the gasket.

Amazon purchases:

I lucked out when installing the High Sierra shower head several years ago, happened to have a Kohler adapter that mated the stock hose to this upgraded handle. In ordering, don’t get too hung up on which flow restricter to choose (go high), the push button control valve can easily be used to reduce flow, as desired. The button is great for Navy showers, no more having to use the sink valve to regulate water flow and temperature; the button’s trickle feature keeps the water temp constant so no more waste of water having to reset, thus less volume in gray tank. As a sink faucet, I use the button to allow a reduced stream of water rather than full flow when the valve is opened, further saving water and tank volume. This product is a jewel of an upgrade, get one!

We no longer put TP in the black tank; reduces waste volume, less water to flush toilet, and dumping the black tank is much easier and faster. Here’s a couple of ideas: Personal scented waste bags, disposed of as needed. These bags and dispenser are marketed for use in managing baby diapers when on the go and are inexpensive. Handy spray bottle for final bowl rinse, as needed. Amazing how much less water is required, thus further reducing black tank volume.

For what it’s worth, Oliver shows a Charge Current of 150 (Xantrex Setting 24) for their 640Ah 12v Lithium package, which may be the max for the Xantrex 3000 model used. Applying 100A charge to your 600Ah bank should suffice.