Ronbrink

Waiting may be good, but be prepared! I waited over four years and finally decided on the Atmos 4.4, no regrets! I especially love how quite it is; this ‘light sleeper’ no longer needs earplugs at night, and we can easily watch TV and carry on a conversation at the same time regardless how far apart or chosen fan speed. As for the continuous fan run when in Cool Mode, not a concern of mine. If ever a spike in cabin humidity is detected, Dry Mode is activated which rapidly drops the moisture level. However, a small room dehumidifier helps to mitigate such issue and high cabin humidity is a rare occurrence. I truly like the feel of continuous air movement via the ‘swing function’, whereby up and down circulation is felt at the furthest reaches within while factoring in the higher operating CFM rating of these units. The ‘cool breeze’ is an added comfort and talk of mods to make change are unnecessary measures IMO. Like others I too am disappointed in the cost increases and thus, so glad I didn’t wait any longer for the ‘ultimate’ unit that may or may not become available and at what price. ‘Nuff said!

A few days ago I completed an installation of a front receiver hitch on the Savana. I previously installed same on the Silverado, specifically to carry a bike rack when underway for use with our folding ebikes once in camp, and liked its functionality. However, no such hitch was found available for the van and thus, removal and modification of the one that was on the former TV was in order. Once a mounting plan was devised for proper fitment and securement, necessary cutting, shaping, welding and painting was done. Modifications in progress. Hitch readied for install. U-bolt and plate securement. Front spoiler remounted with thru-hole, hitch extension installed. Formerly fabricated roller skid plate I made to protect the bike rack got new paint job. Savana sporting hitch/skid plate and QuikrStuff dual bike rack with ramp.

Great advice, and the reason we travel with a sizable dual zone cooler; mostly intended for overflow, but on rare occasion as a backup!

I replaced four 6V Trojans with two 12V 230Ah LiTime LFPs, a 158 lb. reduction in weight and double the usable amp hours. This was the cheaper alternative of the two options @jd1923 mentioned. Also shown is a Victron SmartShunt to the left and an ANL fuse holder to the right.

I now carry this instead of the low-profile aluminum floor jack; much safer, easier to handle and takes up less space!

Excellent write-ups on your DC-DC install! Looks like you have it dialed in for peak efficiency, waiting to learn more on its awesomeness! I too ‘home shop’ for spare parts and materials to complete any given project, definitely saves time and money. When I did the alternator upgrade on my former TV (Mechman 320 Amp High Output Alternator) I installed the Big 3 wire upgrade, which substantially improves grounding at the alternator, engine and frame using 1/0 cables. However, I have since stripped said alternator and cables from the Silverado 1500 for future install on the Savana 2500, which has a 150 Amp stock alternator that will suffice for now. I’ve already done the same with the formerly installed DC-DC cables on the Silverado and the Savana is now readied with the rear bumper Anderson SB120 connector and Source Side Environmental Boot/Cover.

I checked on this and found the special pricing to be for the Standard kit for Residential plans.

Wonderful, need to place another order!

I’m hooked, have a dozen of these throughout the Oliver! Easy to install; they stay put for the most part; and great for hanging equipment, clothing, towels, hats, bags, you name it. I just twist the suction knob occasionally to maintain a tight hold. Here’s a few examples:

If you can find a dual zone fridge/freezer within your budget and allotted space/carry capacity I would encourage you to do so. Having some overflow for both will prove very beneficial and more universal in usage. In these models either or both zones can be set to meet a current purpose. I like being able to have cold drinks when detached and away from camp, not one to mess with ice in a conventional cooler.

A bit late chiming in, looks like you confirmed/answered your own questions. The Gree Eco-Cool and Dreiha Atmos 4.4 are exactly the same; both have R32, like interior plenums with control panel, and remote and wi-fi app controls. Here’s another YT video by Why Not RV, wherein he installs the Gree on his Airstream, once again exactly as my install of the Atmos (other than the furnace wiring/wall thermostat). No direct link to the video but you get the picture, pun intended! Also shown an excerpt from the Eco-Cool Owner’s Manual on the refrigerant.

Perhaps just marketing lingo! True, they don’t come with a. softstart device, but one is needed to run off inverter or small generator to keep from tripping a breaker.

Just to clarify, I lifted the following statement from the Sprinter forum: “Gree manufactures both the Eco Cool and Atmos 4.4 air conditioner, they are just labeled under different brand names. They are exactly the same units.” I’ve also read that Tosot by Gree is the same, as well. From what I have learned, none of these Gree units have a “built-in SoftStart”, that was a widely spread misconception which has been dispelled. I personally installed an Atmos 4.4 w/SoftStartRV on my OLEll. The Dry Mode is real; has a forth fan speed, ‘Turbo’; and both a remote and ceiling air diffuser control panel. On some SOBs when ducted, an optional wall thermostat is needed depending on the installation.

I have my DPll 11K listed on my go-tos, FB Marketplace and OfferUp. I’ve brought in thousands of dollars in past listing and ultimately someone will buy this unit. However, typical inquires include ridiculous offers and money-stricken individuals who can’t really afford, but with patience a viable buyer will happily pay the asking price or a perceived ‘bottom line’ price. There is no fee paid for use of these two sites.

That is correct, and thanks for explaining another aspect of the bilateral drain design. I read this morning of a video wherein a mod was done to have the fan only run when the compressor is running in Cool Mode. An Atmos owner (not Oliver) stated in the Sprinter forum that he was going to do the mod, but no further report to date. Such mod would void the warranty.

You are correct on both instances, and a mention that the rear fan continues to run until the compressor is cooled down, supposedly to add longevity to the unit. A couple of things, the Dry feature is very effective in keeping interior cabin levels comfortable when relative humidity conditions are very high outside. It is also my understanding that the condensate and evaporate coils have separate drain pans, each having drain holes to both sides to ensure condensate water flows out regardless of the trailer’s orientation. I’m not sure if that is common or unique to the Atmos.

Disconnect with use of LFP batteries; a DC-DC charger can be used to charge LFPs when underway, if so desired.

I too made a purchase on @Steph and Dud B’s recommendation, and soon found the provided clevis pins to be too cumbersome; specifically the R clips were small and subject to dropping. No bueno! I replaced them with quick release pins, problem solved! I put a formerly used SealLine Dry Park from past outdoor adventures to good use in stowing the tire step inside the Savana van.

I installed a 460Ah LFP battery bank (SOB) and the ATS @jd1923 mentioned to enable use of my Xantrex Freedom XC 2000W inverter to run the former DPll 11K; a three hour run time would drop the SOC to 50%. I have since replaced the DPll with an Atmos 4.4 15K, but have not had much experience regarding inverter run times, but hopeful the higher efficiency of the upgrade will provide an increase.

That is my practice; the sewer part, not the vomiting!

I just saw this fairly recent YT video by The Fit RV, wherein SDG installs an Atmos 4.4 in their EKKO Transit. Not tech savvy, so if interested do a search for this:

With the Atmos, the foam strip supplied to support/level the aft is the same density as that used around the roof cutout, which supports the weight of the unit.

The landing appears to be bonded and sealed around the edges based on review of photos and thus, probably added as support for the former DPll on my year model Oliver and 11K unit. If you’re thinking if necessary for an Atmos install, likely not due to success of @rideadeuce’s SDG install wherein there was no such landing and the supplied foam adequately provided aft support. I only know that OTT uses a similar landing for the upgraded Truma installs, perhaps someone else can confirm if a landing is added on newer models with the standard DPll.

My year model Oliver had a fiberglass landing that supported the aft of the former Dometic Penguin ll (11K), whereas in @rideadeuce’s instance (DP ll 13.5K) there was no such support in his year model. In his install the “supplied foam” you reference was installed in accordance with the installation instructions provided. Said foam installed in like manner in my instance would not make contact with the roof and offer support due to relief of the landing and thus, it was halved and positioned on each side as added support. Regarding OTT’s retrofit of the Truma Aventa on earlier models to replace a Dometic and new models ordered with the Aventa upgrade option, a fiberglass landing was specifically designed for that unit.

To address weBoost comments by you, @Galileoand @Mike and Carol: I’ve been practicing this procedure a few years and find it to be very useful information. I’ve even been able to get service in a park known to have very limited to ‘No Cell Service’! Having my weBoost antenna mounted atop a 16’ fiberglass flagpole helps, as well! Davis Mountains State Park, West Texas.