Ronbrink

I’m on the ‘Happy Camper’ train, never an odor issue! Add as recommended following each dump cycle to both holding tanks, as well as a drain valve lubricant a couple times a year.

I did a brief preliminary test while at the Cow Barn yesterday, a 15 minute run at TV idle. No drop in TV battery voltage while running its’ a/c full blast, and the 40A DC-DC charger and DPll (High setting) simultaneously. The run duration was limited due to the fact that the OTT was inside rather than outside the storage shed, whereby exhaust fumes would not have been an issue. The TV’s alternator gauge indicated a steady +14V output throughout the test, a vast improvement over the aging stock alternator. Looking forward to a planned trip next month to see how it performs, but very encouraged by the results of this test. TV at idle DPll current draw offset by DC-DC DPll turned off, DC-DC output (minus misc. OTT draw) DC-DC off, OTT misc. draw

I can only state ‘what I did’! Started off with a Renogy 20A DC-DC charger and the 50’ WndyNation 4 AWG wire set @rideadeuce mentions. The larger than necessary gauge wire was installed to accommodate any future upgrade in charger size, which eventually came into play. The charger was installed in the rear dinette seat hatch, mounted vertically on the interior wall, in like manner as the Xantrex, but on the opposite side just forward of the above battery box/pantry. This position allowed for the shortest cable run to the battery bank, being four 6V Trojan T-105s at the time, and this charger was the alternative of choice since my OTT did not have solar. However in short order, I ungraded to LFPs to be able to run the a/c via the inverter, and subsequently upgraded to a Renogy 40A DC-DC to further offset draw on the battery bank when running the a/c while underway or during brief stops with the TV at idle. This practice proved to be too stressful on the aging stock alternator and thus a high output alternator was installed. I convey all of this knowing that you are fully aware, but there may be some that read this and find it helpful information. I simply choose Renogy as a cost saving measure, half that of a Victron, and have been very pleased. A Victron SmartShunt was also installed at time of the lithium upgrade and the Renogy’s output can be monitored via the VictronConnect app.

@jd1923 I recently used AWG 6 ferrules when installing the Victron 30A charger in my Oliver, very handy tool and end terminals to have!

Not sure of the year model when OTT changed from 14/2 to 12/2 Romex, as installed in my 2020 OLEll.

Thanks, he therein further confirms my thought on the matter. My recently acquired 12,000 joules ‘sacrificial lamb’ with circuit analyzer for less than 50$ before tax.

Just checked in with the Sprinter-Forum, wherein an LTV owner expressed an advantage of the Atmos 4.4 over his former Penguin ll regarding condensation forming on the windows of his rig. Interesting observation and testament.

I would be inclined to keep any spare keys/Fobs hidden on the TV rather than the OTT. In doing so, one will always have the backup sets available, especially if lost when away from the trailer.

Did you ever determine a reason for the high humidity issue or a resolution?

I ordered mine in advance of need back in May, shipped within three days; guess I got lucky! Seems 4 State Trucks should express more concern regarding their Customer Service and be more upfront about supply related delays.

Will do.

UPDATE1: The installation of the Mechman high output alternator went well, now waiting to field test to confirm any improvement in the DC-DC charger output at idle and general TV battery performance. Perhaps @rideadeuce got his installed and can provide a report on his (hopefully favorable) results. Wire loom to protect the new 1/0 cables remains to be done. Battery chaos! UPDATE2: Wire loom and engine cover installed to complete this alternator upgrade project. As a side note: since my TV has a lower drive belt for the a/c compressor, a new one was first installed before the new shorter one specified for use with the smaller alternator pulley per the manufacturer’s recommendation.

Same, but around my hoist post using a high security Stanley lock.

Any or all of the measures you mentioned, but at minimum a hitch lock and securing the safety chains. Some owners also remove the stabilizer jack fuses, when deployed they serve as an anchor.

The shipment was delayed, I decided to have SDG install the SoftStartRV; should ship this coming week.

Understood, but having a ‘low’ voltage shutdown at the post would negate the benefit of the HA voltage booster, which also has surge/spike protection. In an excessive high energy event like a nearby lightening strike, a 10,000+ joule surge protector at the post will further the life of MOVs in both the HA booster and PI EMS.

I’m thinking a 30A surge protector with a circuit analyzer, high joules rating of 10,000+, and no auto shutdown feature at the power pole is the best option to satisfy my stated concerns; basically a sacrificial device for less than 100$. I trust the PI EMS’s over/under voltage protection feature and thus, no need for redundancy with a HW EPO. Thanks for your insight on this matter!

I was simply asking if you or anyone knew why the Furrion port was rated at 10A when the wiring is obviously higher amp capable. Thanks for your response and information provided therein!

Do you have an opinion on which may be better, keeping in mind that I already have the Hughes Autoformer. A surge protector with a high joules rating, as @Geronimo John advocates, staged at the power pole; one with an automatic shutdown feature, as @John Dorrer recommends; or some other that will pair well with the HA? My biggest concern is harm to the Oliver from a lightening strike or excessive voltage, and whether the EMS has shutdown capability under said conditions.

Upon a side-by-side comparison to both 10 and 12 AWG wires on hand, the Furrion leads proved to be 12 AWG rather than 10 AWG, as previously thought to be. You are correct, 12 AWG - 20A, 10 AWG - 30A. Furthermore, the Furrion Installation Instructions state ‘Use only 10-12 AWG or above cable with this product. Using a smaller AWG cable will result in overheating and possible Fire Hazard.’ Thanks for helping me get the facts straight and out there for others to glean.

I actually bought these and returned them prior to buying the Furrion solar ports. Although these flush mount AP ports came with a rubber protective cap for a water tight seal when not in use, there was no moisture protection when in use. The Cnlinko connectors are said to be waterproof and the Furrion lid will further aid in shedding water.

I bought two of the Furrion 10A Solar Charge power ports with the Cnlinko plugs last year in anticipation of future portable solar panel usage. Since the wires are 10 AWG on these ports, why only a 10A rating for this Furrion/Cnlinko combo? Can you state the total watts of your suitcase setup, I’m looking at the Renogy 400W Lightweight Portable and would like to make use of these ports if possible. Thanks.

I ask myself way too often, ‘Why do things always have to be so difficult?’. Good luck!

Thanks. This picture says it all, a few cans of Parts Cleaner are introduced to my suspension friends!

The Atmos is a fairly new installation, as well. Despite the claim they don’t draw-in outside air, you may want to experiment using another dehumidifier at night while using the A/C in Sleep mode, or some other means to rule out the Atmos as the culprit. Just say’n.