Ronbrink

I have is a blank where that switch would typically go. That said, one could add a switch to serve purpose of powering the fans and control panel. However, the control panel acts as a switch in similar manner.

I recently installed the Beech Lane dual fans and was able to run wires from the interior cabinet, above the microwave/Norcold, down and behind both units for the fan control panel/harness and power connections in the upper and lower exterior vent/cover areas, respectively. Access for fishing the wires required folding back the cabinet’s protective mat liner, removing the round access port cover and detaching the AC outlet box (after turning power off at the breaker) that the microwave plugs into, as well as drilling a hole (see pics). Additionally, I had to remove the foil tape and angled aluminum plate that occurs behind the upper exterior vent/cover to enable the wire fishing process; specifically, the fiberglass divide between the two units inhibits passage wherein a visual and physical interaction may be necessary. Regarding your wall switch, if you could get 12V power of appropriate gauge wire to it, then power wires would not have to be fished down to the lower reaches of the fridge for connection. Steps taken in prep to fish wires. There was a passageway found inside the outlet cutout to the lower right, other side of the interior cabinet wall from the microwave power cord, leading to the upper exterior vent/cover area Control panel wires prepped for fishing. Wire loom installed during stages of fish process. Routing completed to upper exterior vent/cover area. Interior cabinet buttoned up! Quick connects used at 12V power connections.

To be clear, the thumb lever on the LockNLube coupler, affixed to your grease gun, will be depressed when attaching the 90° extension to ensure the two components are properly joined; then the adjustable collar at the end of said extension is turned one way to tighten its’ jaws to hold onto the zerk for a good seal and the other way to loosen the jaws for removal from the zerk when done. Many owners simply replace the stock zerks with 45° and/or 90° angled ones to eliminate the need of the adjustable extension.

My previous was pertaining to use of the primary coupler with the thump lever, but since you are using the 90° adapter one must turn the adjustable collar that goes over the zerk to lock it in place and then turn in the opposite direction for ease of removal.

Are you depressing the thumb lever to open up the four jaws? Upon release the coupler should be locked onto the zerk, and should not leak or come off until the lever is depressed again to remove.

I lowered the LBCO from 12.1V to 11.5V and that did indeed allow extended use of the A/C via inverter without fear of a sysrem shutdown, That said, I am currently conducting ‘hard reboot’ of my Xantrex 2000W Freedom XC in hopes of resolve of my “inverter misperceives DC voltage” issue. Thanks for your post, definitely an effective “workaround” and solution you presented,

I’m beginning to think there is something wrong with this picture! Specifically, the divide between the Xantrex remote panel’s 12.3V reading and the VictronConnect SmartShunt reading of 12.86V; both taken within seconds of each other while under load running the A/C via inverter. I’ve recently had issue with system shutdown when the Xantrex threshold of 12.1V (recommended setting for Xantrex #02, LBCO Voltage, per Oliver for LFPs), even though my SOC was in the low 70s percentile. I have successfully been able to run the A/C up to two hours in duration without issue, but something seems to have changed. Upon searching the forum, I found where another owner reported a 0.5V differential and community consensus indicated that was NOT a good thing! As I recall, action taken was a hard reboot of the inverter involving total isolation by disconnecting the 12V cables for 3 days, which was reported to rectify said discrepancy. As of yesterday, a total reboot was instigated in hope of resolve. Your thoughts regarding this matter would be greatly appreciated, thanks!

Well, before I had a chance to attempt a fix of the broken hinge, the other side broke shortly into a week’s trip. I did take a quick look prior to departure, but determined glue would likely not hold and besides, I misplaced the tiny spring. There was no urgency when heading out, since the single functional hinge had enough spring action to hold the freezer door closed. However, once it broke I had a troublesome floppy door to contend with. No bueno! Thankfully, I carry some Velcro strips and was able to rectify the problem temporarily. In fact now that I know the replacement hinges are fairly pricey, I may extend use of this fix for awhile longer. Double trouble: Short ‘hook’ section on each side of right door end: Back-to-back ‘hook’ and ‘loop’ strap for the door closure: Mas bueno!

There is also a control panel with an On/Off button on the face of my Xantrex 2000. The wall-mounted remote is used to control power to the unit and the one on the Xantrex is kept in the Off position.

I would be hesitant to machine wash and a dryer may cause them to shrink. I suggest you try an automotive fabric upholstery cleaning product or one of those steam cleaners with an upholstery attachment.

We’re in Clear Lake near Galveston, I ‘m a mosquito magnet! We carry Thermacells, one handheld and three latern style. The handheld is kept near me and the laterns are positioned around the immediate camp. I have a dropper bottle containing Pyrethrin to recharge the scent pads, very cost efficient and very effective! I really don’t like to spray down with harsh insect repellant, but find the Repel Lemon Eucalyptus (Deet-Free) product pleasent for skin and clothing applications and effective. Inside the Oliver I hang a couple of bug zappers for the occasional pesty invaders. If anywhere for a length of time, the screened Clam is deployed. Although I don’t like using, sometimes there’s a need to sweep camp with Cutter Backyard Bug Control.

I would like to make a correction to my above statement; an inverter will draw 1A if left On with no load and zero draw when Off. I recently realized I did not have my inverter in the Off position at both the Xantrex and wall-mounted remote. The VictronConnect app now shows -0.24A Current, which is in line with your results.

Great recommendation to @NHBoomers! I second the OdoBan, has a pleasant smell and more importantly, it works to eliminate bad odors. Been using for years in my skiff to rid fish and bait smells, and coastal grunge! Buy it by the gallon at Sam’s, sometimes sold with a ‘bonus’ spray bottle.

@jd1923 My power draw is <1400W, perhaps the difference being in the 11,000 vs 13,500 BTU units. I too had my Xantrex 2000 shut down once when the batteries, under load, dropped near 12V; a ‘red’ triangle was displayed on the remote panel, yikes! I never really paid attention to the display voltage reading until that happened, just relied on the SOC per the VictronConnect app; lesson learned! I’m still thinking the Atmos 4.4 will be a satisfactory replacement unit. I know of two owners that have planned installs, awaiting their initial impressions.

When running the A/C on inverter, I’ve really learned to watch the battery voltage displayed on the Xantrex wall-mounted remote, much lower than the reading displayed via the VictronConnect app for the SmartShunt when under heavy load. Taken yesterday after running A/C for an hour. Looking forward to replacing the Dometic as @jd1923 advocates! A/C running on inverter. A/C turned Off.

We did the same with our 2020 twins, very satisfied with the high quality and firmness of these latex mattresses. Since on the subject, can anyone recommend a quality cover/encasement that is waterproof and conforms to the curve of the Oliver?

There is a new video on the Sprinter-Forum highlighting the Atmos 4.4 in a ‘non-ducted’ installation on a 2020 mini motorhome (make and model escape me). Unlike other videos posted in that forum, this one mimics more closely the perceived install in an Oliver IMO.

The upgrade to a 2” receiver is to accommodate use of a wider range of rack brands, not to raise Oliver’s stated weight limit.

@topgun2: WELL DONE!

Case and point, my Xantrex 2000 is an inverter/charger. The inverter works as intended, however the charger (80A) only has an initial charge cycle which comes on when first plugged into shore power. Since there is no further charging capability, it necessitated my going to the storage facility almost weekly to reboot said charging cycle by unplugging from shore power and reconnecting. This task was really worrisome with the former four 6V Trojans to prevent discharge below 50% SOC, but not as much now with my 460 Ah LFPs that can take a deeper discharge and have double usable amp hours. To rectify the inherent problem, I recently installed a Victron Cerbo and 30A Smart Charger to assume the task of keeping the battery bank SOC in check. On Auto Start, if my SOC drops below 60% the charger is activated and set to turn off when 95% SOC is reached. There is also a Manual Start and Off mode; all done by way of the VictronConnect app. NOTE: I did talk with a Xantrex tech about the charging aspect and he confirmed it was not operating correctly; he recommended purchase of a new unit.

My only real dilemma is when in storage on shore power and I want to run the A/C when doing maintenance or cleaning, which the facility’s 15A shore power will not allow. Before LFPs, I would run a generator on propane to enable use of the A/C, now the process is much simpler! When needed, I generally just unplug the power cable and run the A/C via the inverter. Away from storage I always have 30A service, either at home or a campsite, and can run the A/C on shore power. The above described scenario is only one reason for wanting to be able to run the A/C on battery, but the primary reason was for use when underway during stops for rests and/or meals. You know the gig!

My Dometic 11,000 BTU A/C with Micro-Air EasyStart works fine with the Xantrex 2000 in my unit. The max run time thus far on inverter is 2 hours.

For whatever it’s worth, I’ve only run my A/C via the inverter when not hooked up to shore power. Not sure it can even be done when hooked up.

If you haven’t resolved the issue, check the backside of the fuse box where individual wiring is connected via spade connectors. I recently lost power to the fridge and found the connector leading to its’ respective fuse loose. Not the best pic, but shows the wire bundle to look for; the red wire on the top goes to the fridge, which will require a new female spade connector to remedy.

I put these tool kits together soon after buying my 2012 Chevy 1500 4x4, which now serves as my current TV; where the Oliver goes, they go! The small individual pockets have assorted sockets and driver bits, as well as other accessories.