Ronbrink

I don’t think the inverter is ever actually Off unless the battery power is totally isolated, as evidenced by the 1Ah draw indicated on my EMS which is likely that of the inverter in ‘standby mode’. In my situation, the Xantrex only has an initial charge; in talking with the maker’s tech I was told my unit was not operating correctly and to check the settings. To date I have not resolved the issue. Currently, I have to flip the inline surface-mount circuit breakers to both the Xantrex and DC to keep from depleting the battery bank when in storage.

The DC/DC connection is the primary purpose of my bumper-mount install, but great for a convenient 12v power source. 💥KAPOW!!💥

This reminded me of a Furrion Solar Port inlet I believe installed by @John E Davies if memory serves me. I copied this pic for future reference; multi-use for solar and fridge.

I purchased the Powerwerx plug @Steve Morris highlighted, but returned it because there is no weatherproof way to seal it when in use. Even if mounted inside the propane tank housing there is a chance of moisture intrusion. I keep my Dometic dual-zone in the TV under cap and primarily operate it on a solar portable power station. I’ve never considered taking it out of the TV when at camp; it’s very heavy when loaded, and like keeping it out of the elements and secure from theft. However, as backup I can run it from a bumper-mounted Anderson. Although this particular plug can be fitted with an environmental boot as shown, it is not flush-mount and better suited for a forward rather than a side Oliver mount. I also use this Anderson to run the Viair.

Rationale: The TST monitor is programmed to show the wheel position of each sensor as it scrolls around the Oliver, as well as the TV if equipped. If a spare also has a sensor and deployed, the monitor was still show that wheel at the TT/TV spare mount position. I would rather remove the sensor from the flat tire and place it on the spare as not to disrupt the scrolling sequence. Also, if I choose to keep the spare on the ground and use the repaired tire as the spare, I don’t have to bother myself with reprogramming the TST monitor. As a side note, I recommend traveling with a set of replacement batteries for the type sensors used. Usually when glitches in monitor readings occur it is due to a weak battery.

I take the sensor off the flat and use it on the spare.

Thanks for bringing this information to our attention, I stand corrected! Going back to a past FB comment I wrote: I went with the equipped rubber stems until they started failing. Our Texas heat is brutal and in the 110°+ heatwave where traveling my tire temps reached 105°+. Hopefully the aluminum stems will perform better in these extreme conditions. I have no regrets switching to the metal stems, for peace of mind if nothing else. Again, thanks.

@Coastal Aggie If you have an inverter, it will draw 1amp/hour, even when turned off.

No doubt it will be a great ‘backup’ power supply, but not certain it can be integrated into the Olivers electrical system in similar manner as a generator or shared solar input. This is one for the electrical engineers to chime in on!

I’ve never seen or heard of a pin hole developing in pex, so I Googled it. Found a huge range of causes, mostly speculation, to include over pressuring, chemical degradation (such as chlorination), animal gnawing, physical impact, freeze exposure, manufacture defects, and so on and so forth. I would advise replacing the entire section of pex rather than splicing with a coupler at the leak point.

I often accuse my wife of finding new and creative ways to further torture an already dead chicken!

I too would do that if unable to stabilize with cam-lock wheels. I’m careful when positioning and once the cams are set it stays put. With the shape of the Oliver, the only potential point of contact on the sides is where the top and bottom halves are joined. However, extra caution is needed forward at the propane cover when straddling the tongue. The rear is not a problem.

Scroll down to a recent post by @serge (Problem with 12 volt circuit…..) where I provide a possible remedy.

I don’t think @Geronimo John is factoring in the intermittent beer drinking!

I’ve had four touch lights, one of which in center ceiling, that either flickered or would not come on or go off. Upon removing the cover, a simple cleaning of dust within and adjustment of the spring (in center fixture) solved the problem. Also, I find that a ‘gentle touch’ of back of hand rather than a ‘hand bump’ is best for operation. Thinking maybe the ‘bump’ method is causing the spring to move out of optimum position.

This is what Discount Tire installed on my Oliver. I also bought a set of the exact same stems from them for my TV; took it to DT upon my return home and they did the install. No issues to date.

Conversely, I had two of the OLEll stock rubber valve stems fail on a return trip from West Texas last summer, ambient daytime temps were 110-115°. After the second time, I pulled into a Discount Tire in Fredericksburg, TX and had metal stems installed on the Oliver and a set in hand for installation on the TV once home. At the time of TST purchase, the instructions stated use of rubber stems was acceptable. However, their instructions have since been revised advocating use of metal stems only. Based on Discount Tire’s assessment, the extreme heat caused the rubber stems to flex more along with the added weight of the monitors, thus stress fractures resulted in failure. I was told they recently had several other trailers brought in with the exact same issue. The metal stems are shorter than the rubber ones and have not presented any problems thus far.

To whomever is interested, perhaps someone can further explain the significance of these wires.

I found this product a few year ago and really like it, been using their dielectric grease for 7 or 8 years, as well. It took a couple trips to work all of the old grease off of the Bulldog after initially wiping clean with paper towels, perhaps a thorough cleaning with a solvent would have been a better approach. Most of all, since it is clear/opaque there is no soiling of self or clothes. I also use a hitch ball cover when unhooked to help keep the ball free of dust and debris, as well as a clean hand when handling the hitch.

Understood, everyone has their priorities and responsibilities; you definitely have a full plate! I know from reading your posts of the time and effort spent modifying your Oliver and upgrading your TV. I would think getting away with both while spending time with the family to be very therapeutic, as well.

Very intriguing, thanks for your post! For future reference, what did you do to resolve the A/C issue?

Idle ramblings of a rabbit hole opportunist!

I find the polishing/waxing ordeal therapeutic, for both me and the Oliver!

I searched this forum and reached out to the community to glean pertinent info; my primary purpose in converting to LFPs was to be able to run the A/C via the inverter for short durations (up to 2 hrs.) during breaks and other stops when underway, and when at the storage facility for cleaning and maintenance. Formerly, I would use one of my dual-fuel generators on propane to cool the Oliver, but now the task is much simpler and a save on propane! Installation of the dedicated TS is very straightforward; I can provide info if a need is determined.

I have a Griot’s Garage G9 random orbital polisher with the optional 25’ quick-connect power cord, correcting foam pad set and waxing pads. I use the Meguiar’s 67 One Step Compound and Flagship Premium Marine Wax that @Patriot and @rideandfly previously highlighted.