Ronbrink

There is some truth to this, but then the bikes, griddle, fire pit, chairs, tables, etc. also add to the overall “futz” when RVing! I guess ‘organization’ is the key to managing said cargo and then there are a few ‘work arounds’ that come into play, as well. Although my Westinghouse 4500DF lives at the truck-bed bulkhead, it is readily accessible once our folding ebikes are unloaded at camp, if needed. I don’t use it that much, but find comfort in having it in the event of an extended roadside breakdown or other emergency situations such as hurricane evacuations. However, I soon learned a smaller genny would suffice for most of our generator needs (think air conditioning) and thus, a DuroMax 2200 was obtained. I carry a 5-gal jerrycan of non-ethanol gas as backup fuel for the generators, but primarily operate each on propane. That said, I also carry a spare 30# propane tack next to the WH and run a hose from it to the tailgate for convenient use of the DM, as necessary when traveling. The spare tank is also a match to the OTT’s propane tanks.

Good plan! It didn’t take me long to do the same after realizing the need when bringing the OTT to the house from storage for travel prep or maintenance. Also installed a 50A outlet for my son to use with his motorhome when visiting. 2020 OLEll, 579

Would that “outside” location be ‘inside’ the battery compartment or some other accessible place? I see where some have mounted the switch atop the batteries.

As ScubaRx eluded, permanent mounting options are very limited, many owners just make use of the cargo basket with or without modification. That said, the “best way to attach” may in fact be the ‘only way to attach’, that being via the cargo basket or perhaps a mounting plate if no basket. Since I did not opt for said basket or want to trailer-mount, I adopted a couple of alternatives routinely used depending on my power needs; I carry two generators under cap, a 4500W for total and a 2200W for specific power service. I can either suspend or lower for ground positioning the larger, tailgate or tongue position the smaller (note the lock and chain for securement).

Thanks all for your advice, once again guilty of ‘overthinking’! Take pleasure in knowing you have successfully changed my ‘continuous charge’ mind set. Followed up on GJ’s recommendation and confirmed my batteries are to be maintained in the same manner as his BattleBorns, as are lithiums in general. Also to MAX Burner’s point, I have ordered a master cutoff switch to lessen the worrisome battery drawdown issue. To SeaDawg’s point, I don’t think the inverter is ever actually Off unless the battery power is totally isolated; that 1Ah draw indicated on the EMS is likely that of the inverter in ‘standby mode’, or am I ‘overthinking ‘ again!

You and others have convinced me it would be money well spent! Thanks

You are exactly right, isolating the battery bank is a solution. However, my OLEll did not come with a battery cut-off switch. That said, I should probably install the switch for good measure. In fact I bought the one mentioned when upgrading to LFPs, but returned it because my Son said the Xantrex inverter/charger should keep them continuously topped-off. His statement was based on experience with his former motorhome, wherein a Magnum I/C did just that when on shore power or generator. Unbeknownst to us both, the Xantrex model I have only has an initial charge cycle. But here’s my perceived dilemma: I have read where owners able to utilize solar can keep their batteries continuously charged when in storage and not being used, thus no reliance on the Xantrex in that regard. My thinking is, and please tell me if wrong, that since I don’t have solar the alternative, i.e. dedicated, lithium-specific charger, would do the same when on shore power.

I went “here” and found these to be ‘non-friction hinges’, thus possibly the disparity in price Patriot noted. However, Amazon.us does offer a ‘friction hinge kit’ consisting of a pair. They appear to be the same as those rich.dev purchased from the Amazon.ca site, based on the compatible Lippert door Series listed in the product Description.

Earth to Anybody out there!

Good one GJ, go Red Bull! Actually your quote credited to me, “I’ve been using this grease from Reese”, is that of Frank C. I’m advocating the Mission Automotive Hitch Ball Lubricant. The ‘soiling’ issue as subsided since picking up a trailer ball cover from Academy, works great!

Actually, aluminum bar was used; lighter weight and can be worked much like wood. Although the fiberglass bed edge worked, as evidenced by the first set of pics (above) with the original ‘black’ tabletop, it proved to be too weak (think flex and stress) when the table was fully extended over the bed. However, with said weaknesses and inconsistencies found when trying to fit the street side bed, yet another of many iterations in this project was implemented.

After much thought and further iterations, hopefully with this final prototype, as installed, I will “achieve satisfaction”!

Thank you for the detailed assessment, much appreciated! I am mostly concerned with keeping the battery bank adequately charged when in storage on shore power, which seems to be the issue with Xantrex in general. However, you shed some light on the draw a PD or like would have on generator power, something I hadn’t thought about. Since I use my small generator primarily for A/C, I would need to be able to easily turn the charger Off to prevent an overload situation.

Thanks for the clarification! I’m thinking of bypassing the Xantrex ‘converter’ and adding a separate PD, maybe the 80A model specific to lithium.

These batteries have a good reputation and come with a 5-year warranty. Can’t beat the price, mine came in at $1364, tax included, no shipping. I also bought the LiTime 100Ah ‘mini’ to replace a problematic Renogy battery in a portable power station, also made in China. Just know that these batteries do not have built-in heaters, which makes them less expensive; however not a concern living in the deep South. Of course there are other ways to heat batteries, if need be. Only time will tell regarding longevity of these LiTime batteries, but I am pleased with their performance thus far!

I must say the length of the rope handles was just right to be able to utilize them in this manner. I initially did so to keep the newly installed LFPs from shifting fore and aft while taking time to refurbish the original Oliver straps. Seems the former ‘wet’ Trojans deteriorated the plastic strap clips, as well as the thread stitching. The new clips and improved stitching should last much longer with this setup. That said, the batteries are now properly secured and the rope handles still being put to good use helping to keep tension on the slide knobs to hopefully prevent inadvertent movement.

I soiled my myself and clothing many times from residual grease on the hitch ball before addressing the issue. I really, REALLY like this product, mostly because it is clear and won’t stain!

Does the 300W inverter you installed have charging capability, as well? Wondering why the PD charger is needed.

It’s hard to believe there were no responses to your post! Since recently upgrading my 2020 OLEll, 579 (no solar) to LFPs and installing a Victron SmartShunt, I found that the Xantrex does not provide any charge once an initial charge cycle is completed following connection to shore power. Thus, a steady battery discharge occurs and will eventually deplete them to a harmful level unless the charge cycle is ‘manually’ restarted. Your statement regarding setting #26 leads me to believe the Xantrex charger can be disabled and perhaps a separate charger, specific to lithiums, could be installed to continuously maintain the battery bank, if desired. I also learned that the Xantrex draws 1Ah when in the Off position, which would explain your observation expressed. Overtime you have probably reached an understanding of your system and how to manage it. However, if you or others can confirm the use of a dedicated battery charger for continuous battery maintenance, I would very much appreciate any information on the matter.

Agree, had to configure the five dip switches to charge lithiums with the Renogys, the Victron may have something similar to set in the Smart app.

Here’s a screenshot of the Victron app showing 43.29A with the engine held slightly above idle, with some fluctuation to 40A. At idle the value settled down into a range of 33-36A. The next screenshot was taken 14 minutes later with a 1% increase in charge.

I recently replaced my Renogy 20A DC-DC charger with a Renogy 40A model to accommodate a new 460Ah LFP house battery bank upgrade. With the original install, the recommended 4AWG cable, specified for use of a 40A charger, was used in anticipation of this charger upgrade when a switch to lithiums occurred.

Actually, this quote “we decided to go with the Victron 12/24 350 amp” was that of MAX Burner. I too questioned this, he replied it referenced the charger model. This was obviously a typo and edited to 12/12 350 amp, but his pic shows the charger as a 12/12-30. This should ease any concerns of a “PeterBuilt” signature OTT out there! As for the “tag line”, I need to figure out how to add that, but for now: 2012 Chevy 1500 Silverado 4x4; 2020 OLEll, 579, Twin.

All or part of the issue I experienced may have also been due to the quality, or lack thereof, of the breaker initially installed. To that point, I had another breaker tripping at the DC-DC after switching from a 20A to 40A charger. Upon research, I learned that this was a common occurrence with use of ‘cheap Chinese’ breakers and the remedy was installation of a ‘quality Blue Sea’ breaker, which resolved that problem. I should mention that with the 20A charger install, I took cable size into account to adequately accommodate any future upgrade in house battery amp hours and thus, a step-up in charger output.

Right, the extreme summer heat here in Texas this summer was a bit too much! Just know the fuse option is a good fix.