Ronbrink

Please be advised, the breaker installed was a 20A not the 30A as mentioned in my reply. At the same time a second 20A breaker was also installed in the panel and wire routed to the nightstand where two desktop receptacles with USB ports were mounted atop that table, then further routed under the curbside bed to the receptacle shown in my January 15 post above, A dozen simple mods!, Additional USB ports. I stage a small dehumidifier in the galley on the stovetop cover and its’ wire can now be run down the wall and along the mattress for power. A third 20A breaker installed provides an auxiliary receptacle inside the rear seat hatch for miscellaneous use; light, fan, etc. Nightstand AC/USB outlets very handy for staging/charging electronics. Dehumidifier cord off counter as opposed to leading upward to the under cabinet outlet; makes for a cleaner look. Dehumidifier cord/plug below curbside twin bed. Miscellaneous duplex outlet inside dinette hatch on left. The receptacle box to the right is an expansion of the Xantrex setup to enable use of the LFPs to power the Dometic a/c.

My 2020 OLEll had three blank breaker spots in the electrical panel. I installed a 30A breaker in said panel to power the forward exterior outlet, as well as an interior outlet at the rear dinette seat next to the panel. The interior outlet also has USB ports. Does this answer your question?

Very pleased with the final outcome and usefulness of our dual Lagun tables; throughly field tested for durability and functionality. My wife adapted well to her own table after a few years of me ‘hogging’ the single original table. The fabricated components of the dynamic system developed remain to be powder coated ‘white’ to better blend in with the Oliver’s interior; perhaps next seasonal camping lull. A cup of Joe and dose of @Geronimo John’s ‘words of wisdom’ to start this day. Life is good!

I credited the idea to another Oliver owner (name unknown) in a response made to a post by @Wandering Sagebrush entitled ‘Inexpensive Helpful Modifications’, September 15, 2023, Ollie Modifications. This was one of ten mods I featured, some my own and others credited. May be worth another a look-see!

Just watched a video on installation of a SoftStart on an Atmos 4.4, necessary to resolve an inherent issue regarding LRA. Also, a screenshot of the dual squirrel cage fan blower in the Atmos for higher airflow, and sound reduction both from outside and inside the RV; 4 fan speeds, including Sleep mode. A few other notes on the Atmos 4.4: (1) condensate drains on the rooftop, (2) the R32 refrigerant requires a lower pressure, thus more energy efficient, and (3) 12,000 BTU heat pump.

Understood, but everything is bigger in Texas, including the heat and humidity! Waiting to hear from current installers about unit size in a few Sprinter Class B motorhomes, which appear to have comparable interior space as an Oliver, as well as other performance measures.

I went back and read where the aforementioned FB owner understood the dehumidifier to function only in Low cool mode per his conversation with SDG. I reached out to him for an update on his purchase and pending install. Also read where SDG is testing soft start type devices on the Atmos 4.4, and independent others claim the new Micro-Air ‘Breeze’ is actually a better choice over the SoftStart brand. I will follow this closely, but my thought of reinstalling my Micro-Air 364 currently on my Penguin ll was nicked due to issues of memory and rebooting; however, not a problem reusing SoftStart devices on the Atmos. Later

Very good point, thanks for stating! @Geronimo John, I failed to emphasize that the Cerbo can be set to disable charging of my LiFePO4s at low temperatures, thus eliminating any concerns of damage during freezing conditions. The SOC can also be set to maintain a partial charge (40-60% range) for LFPs being stored for more than a month.

There is an owner on the Oliver FB that received an order from SDG, but no report yet on the install. The Atmos 4.4 is a 15K unit, and there are claims that it is much quieter and more energy efficient than the standard Penguin ll Oliver currently installs. I have talked to the company owner and following reports by a couple of SOB owners. Although preliminary reports are promising, there have been some discrepancies in the marketing of these units; specifically, (1) a claim that soft start was built into the unit, but found not to be the case and (2) it has an inverter compressor. The heat pump is a good feature, as well as the dehumidifier which may operate separate from cooling. I have read where the Atmos 4.4 is same as the Gree A/C with the only difference in type of refrigerant. I will pass on further information as made available.

Running a dedicated 4 AWG ground wire directly from the TV’s battery to the rear bumper Anderson port, then continue the run of same size cable directly to the DC-DC would likely solve your problem.

@SNY SD UP, take heed to these words of wisdom; oftentimes cost saving measures are our demise! Safe travels!

That was exactly my point in a previous comment! Since my OTT is always on shore power when in storage, I have a Victron Cerbo and NOCO 10A charger ready to install in unison, which will be programmed to kick on said charger when the LFPs’ SOC drops to a set level. This will eliminate my worries of a depleted battery bank over an extended period in storage.

My DC-DC only puts out a partial charge when idling. Revving the engine should show an increase in output.

This has happened with me a few times, as well; guess ‘things’ get discombobulated when crossing the Pacific! Better to invoke understanding rather than provoke Crazy Horse!

I experienced much the same issue, and will share what I found out and truly believe what may, in part, be going on. When on shore power, take a look at the Progressive Industries EMS digital display. I noticed a 1A draw and could not figure out why, despite the fact that everything was shutdown to the best of my knowledge. I would have to make a weekly trip to the storage facility to activate the ‘initial’ charging aspect of the Xantrex to bring my battery bank up; this involved tripping the 30A main breaker Off then On again. Upon researching, I learned that the Xantrex has a 1A draw even when turned Off. To remedy, I now trip the surface mounted circuit breakers for the Xantrex and DC located under the street side bed. Problem solved, at least for now; zero draw on the batteries! I plan to install a Victron Cerbo and dedicated charger to maintain the battery bank since the Xantrex ‘maintenance’ charge feature is not working.

That is one sexy cow, as is my OLEll, often referred to as my ‘Condo-on-Wheels’!

Twice a year, prior to turning my ‘COW’ out to pasture, the COW Barn gets a good cleaning, aside from the frequent use of a leaf blower throughout the year, as necessary. Although fortunate to be able to stow indoors, pests must be kept at bay; specifically insects and spiders. It has been my practice to clean and treat using diatomaceous earth (DE), rather than harmful chemical pesticide and insecticide formulations on a more frequent basis. The proper DE for this use is food grade, not the type used in swimming pool filter systems. Here is the simple, but very effective process: The floor is swept clean with a push broom. At the time of this cleaning, previously applied DE is mostly piled along the walls as an intrusion barrier. Any critters crawling over is destined for death! The old DE is swept to a pile for disposal. A bulb applicator and bag of DE are readied. A scoop is used the fill the bulb. A liberal amount of DE is broadcast on the floor. It’s seemingly a lot, but this initial coverage will be swept to the side walls when the ‘COW’ comes home for prolonged effectiveness. When about three-quarters done, my equipment carts are rolled in and the remainder of the floor is treated. The COW Barn is then closed up for the duration of our trip. Prior to herding the ‘COW’ back into the Barn, the push broom is used to sweep the DE to the walls where is continues to effectively kill targeted pests. Since DE is commonly used to treat pests on outdoor plants, one could dust under and around their OTT sitting outside to reap benefit.

No cutting of the propane housing involved, but did notch the gland for it to fit (see pic); it is slightly under the propane housing at the top. As I recall, I made a single 3/4” hole behind the gland through the hull to route both cables under the bath flooring and forward dinette seat hatch to the aft dinette seat hatch where the charger is staged. The fishing tool should suffice, but in my case the two cables had to be hand-fed by my Son as I pulled from inside forward hatch.

The hull passthrough was the most challenging part of my DC-DC install. I used this double cable gland to ensure a waterproof installation. Here’s a couple of views.

Had a similar hinge break on my Norcold three-way. Thinking a fix with Super Glue or similar product.

I haven’t read any mention as to whether or not the Houghton needs a soft start or similar unit, especially if running on a battery bank/inverter.

Final install of Autoformer. Ell extension fastened to white board as primary stabilizer for the support/bracket assembly. Spacers added to raise relay to span over the ell extension. Makeshift thumb screws used to secure support/bracket assembly in place; serves for easy removal, as necessary. View of support/bracket assembly readied for Autoformer install. Autoformer secured and energized!

In followup, I have completed the fabrication of the aluminum support for the Hughes Autoformers mounting bracket. I will provide further details upon final installation. The ell extension protruding out on the left of the support/bracket assembly will be permanently installed within the aft dinette seat hatch, affixed under the Automatic Transfer Relay mounted on top of the wheel well. Two rivet nuts in the vertical ell will enable removal of the support/bracket assembly, via thumb screws, once the Autoformer is removed from its’ bracket for maintenance/repair of any underlying or surrounding electrical components. Back view. Front view. Autoformer mount views. Area cleared for installation of support/bracket assembly and Autoformer over the grounding bus bar. Support/bracket assembly and mounted Autoformer view. Pending final installation will involve placement of spacers under the relay’s mounting tabs to raise it up and over the ell extension, which will be secured with screws to the existing white mounting board.

My wife bought a couple of these TMA vacuums a year ago and have been very pleased considering the cost, less than $40 each at the time (promotional deal). Although we have a Dyson in the house, I often grab this cheapo for a quick sweep of things. The other is dedicated to the OTT, stows in the closet standing on end and is lightweight. It’s simple but very effective in a daily clean of the floor; also has a few attachments for cleaning cushions and window seals.

The question will be if both the neutral grounding plug and your the 30A adapter will simultaneously fit the genny’s duplex receptacle.