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Ronbrink
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Everything posted by Ronbrink
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You may want to consider replacing the stock alternator with a high output unit. I started running into trouble when I swapped out the Renogy 20A DC-DC for a 40A, same brand. At idle, the Renogy was only providing around 25 amps and the TV battery was not being properly maintained. When using the A/C via inverter during brief stops, I generally keep the TV running so the DC-DC can augment the power consumption of the A/C; this has proven to be detrimental to the vehicles charging system! Also, I have issue in stop and go traffic when transiting cities. When running at speed, I get full charger output, but the alternator struggles to keep the TV’s battery appropriately charged. I recently purchased a 320A alternator (at high rpm) to replace the stock 165A, which produces 200 amps at idle; awaiting delivery of supplies needed for the install.
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If ever the times comes, I would consider having mine powder coated.
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Please add to your list: Ron and Brooxie Brinkley, Hull #579, Hull Name My COW, Site #227. Thanks
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I am familiar with the small terminal block (“junction”) you are referring to, mine uses spade connectors to make power wire connections to the Norcold’s power box (seen with the white and yellow labels in pic). In my install, I disconnected the two power fed lines Oliver routed (10 AWG) into the lower exterior fridge compartment, being the two wires shown wrapped in electrical tape. Rather than cutting these wires to make a splice, I choose to strip a 1/4” length of insulation off each, whereby the wire strands could be separated enough to loop 6” pieces of wire (red +/yellow-) through, that also had insulation removed (5/8”) at its’ midpoint. Once inserted, these wires were simply folded in half, then twisted to join at the bare wire junctures and subsequently soldered, heat-shrink treated and taped. Then these two added power leads were respectively connected to the control panel and fan wires via quick-connect terminal crimp fittings. I did however, have to splice a short piece of larger gauge wire onto the control panel wire ends because they were too small for the QC fittings used. The 14 AWG wire you have should be of sufficient size for your fan mod.
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Isotherm Refrigerator - What are we doing wrong?
Ronbrink replied to DunnYet's topic in Mechanical & Technical Tips
@SeaDawg, I’m liken’ my 3-way Norcold more and more! -
I cannot provide an answer since the Oliver has not been used since this mod. I did however, want easy access to the control panel from the inside, thus the upper cabinet install. I have read where some leave their’s On continuously in Auto mode, I plan to have it turned Off when in storage. Never attempted a link, but can provide a pic of a post you can search. If you haven’t seen, It is very informative and discusses use of a switch at the entry panel, as well as user impressions and comments.
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I have is a blank where that switch would typically go. That said, one could add a switch to serve purpose of powering the fans and control panel. However, the control panel acts as a switch in similar manner.
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I recently installed the Beech Lane dual fans and was able to run wires from the interior cabinet, above the microwave/Norcold, down and behind both units for the fan control panel/harness and power connections in the upper and lower exterior vent/cover areas, respectively. Access for fishing the wires required folding back the cabinet’s protective mat liner, removing the round access port cover and detaching the AC outlet box (after turning power off at the breaker) that the microwave plugs into, as well as drilling a hole (see pics). Additionally, I had to remove the foil tape and angled aluminum plate that occurs behind the upper exterior vent/cover to enable the wire fishing process; specifically, the fiberglass divide between the two units inhibits passage wherein a visual and physical interaction may be necessary. Regarding your wall switch, if you could get 12V power of appropriate gauge wire to it, then power wires would not have to be fished down to the lower reaches of the fridge for connection. Steps taken in prep to fish wires. There was a passageway found inside the outlet cutout to the lower right, other side of the interior cabinet wall from the microwave power cord, leading to the upper exterior vent/cover area Control panel wires prepped for fishing. Wire loom installed during stages of fish process. Routing completed to upper exterior vent/cover area. Interior cabinet buttoned up! Quick connects used at 12V power connections.
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To be clear, the thumb lever on the LockNLube coupler, affixed to your grease gun, will be depressed when attaching the 90° extension to ensure the two components are properly joined; then the adjustable collar at the end of said extension is turned one way to tighten its’ jaws to hold onto the zerk for a good seal and the other way to loosen the jaws for removal from the zerk when done. Many owners simply replace the stock zerks with 45° and/or 90° angled ones to eliminate the need of the adjustable extension.
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My previous was pertaining to use of the primary coupler with the thump lever, but since you are using the 90° adapter one must turn the adjustable collar that goes over the zerk to lock it in place and then turn in the opposite direction for ease of removal.
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Are you depressing the thumb lever to open up the four jaws? Upon release the coupler should be locked onto the zerk, and should not leak or come off until the lever is depressed again to remove.
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Xantrex Inverter Issues? Try a Hard Reboot
Ronbrink replied to Rivernerd's topic in Mechanical & Technical Tips
I lowered the LBCO from 12.1V to 11.5V and that did indeed allow extended use of the A/C via inverter without fear of a sysrem shutdown, That said, I am currently conducting ‘hard reboot’ of my Xantrex 2000W Freedom XC in hopes of resolve of my “inverter misperceives DC voltage” issue. Thanks for your post, definitely an effective “workaround” and solution you presented, -
Finally! My Batteries and Inverter Now Run My AC!
Ronbrink replied to Spike's topic in Ollie Modifications
I’m beginning to think there is something wrong with this picture! Specifically, the divide between the Xantrex remote panel’s 12.3V reading and the VictronConnect SmartShunt reading of 12.86V; both taken within seconds of each other while under load running the A/C via inverter. I’ve recently had issue with system shutdown when the Xantrex threshold of 12.1V (recommended setting for Xantrex #02, LBCO Voltage, per Oliver for LFPs), even though my SOC was in the low 70s percentile. I have successfully been able to run the A/C up to two hours in duration without issue, but something seems to have changed. Upon searching the forum, I found where another owner reported a 0.5V differential and community consensus indicated that was NOT a good thing! As I recall, action taken was a hard reboot of the inverter involving total isolation by disconnecting the 12V cables for 3 days, which was reported to rectify said discrepancy. As of yesterday, a total reboot was instigated in hope of resolve. Your thoughts regarding this matter would be greatly appreciated, thanks! -
Well, before I had a chance to attempt a fix of the broken hinge, the other side broke shortly into a week’s trip. I did take a quick look prior to departure, but determined glue would likely not hold and besides, I misplaced the tiny spring. There was no urgency when heading out, since the single functional hinge had enough spring action to hold the freezer door closed. However, once it broke I had a troublesome floppy door to contend with. No bueno! Thankfully, I carry some Velcro strips and was able to rectify the problem temporarily. In fact now that I know the replacement hinges are fairly pricey, I may extend use of this fix for awhile longer. Double trouble: Short ‘hook’ section on each side of right door end: Back-to-back ‘hook’ and ‘loop’ strap for the door closure: Mas bueno!
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I would be hesitant to machine wash and a dryer may cause them to shrink. I suggest you try an automotive fabric upholstery cleaning product or one of those steam cleaners with an upholstery attachment.
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We’re in Clear Lake near Galveston, I ‘m a mosquito magnet! We carry Thermacells, one handheld and three latern style. The handheld is kept near me and the laterns are positioned around the immediate camp. I have a dropper bottle containing Pyrethrin to recharge the scent pads, very cost efficient and very effective! I really don’t like to spray down with harsh insect repellant, but find the Repel Lemon Eucalyptus (Deet-Free) product pleasent for skin and clothing applications and effective. Inside the Oliver I hang a couple of bug zappers for the occasional pesty invaders. If anywhere for a length of time, the screened Clam is deployed. Although I don’t like using, sometimes there’s a need to sweep camp with Cutter Backyard Bug Control.
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I would like to make a correction to my above statement; an inverter will draw 1A if left On with no load and zero draw when Off. I recently realized I did not have my inverter in the Off position at both the Xantrex and wall-mounted remote. The VictronConnect app now shows -0.24A Current, which is in line with your results.
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HELP! Bad smell from under dinette seat
Ronbrink replied to NHBoomers's topic in Mechanical & Technical Tips
Great recommendation to @NHBoomers! I second the OdoBan, has a pleasant smell and more importantly, it works to eliminate bad odors. Been using for years in my skiff to rid fish and bait smells, and coastal grunge! Buy it by the gallon at Sam’s, sometimes sold with a ‘bonus’ spray bottle. -
Finally! My Batteries and Inverter Now Run My AC!
Ronbrink replied to Spike's topic in Ollie Modifications
@jd1923 My power draw is <1400W, perhaps the difference being in the 11,000 vs 13,500 BTU units. I too had my Xantrex 2000 shut down once when the batteries, under load, dropped near 12V; a ‘red’ triangle was displayed on the remote panel, yikes! I never really paid attention to the display voltage reading until that happened, just relied on the SOC per the VictronConnect app; lesson learned! I’m still thinking the Atmos 4.4 will be a satisfactory replacement unit. I know of two owners that have planned installs, awaiting their initial impressions. -
Finally! My Batteries and Inverter Now Run My AC!
Ronbrink replied to Spike's topic in Ollie Modifications
When running the A/C on inverter, I’ve really learned to watch the battery voltage displayed on the Xantrex wall-mounted remote, much lower than the reading displayed via the VictronConnect app for the SmartShunt when under heavy load. Taken yesterday after running A/C for an hour. Looking forward to replacing the Dometic as @jd1923 advocates! A/C running on inverter. A/C turned Off. -
We did the same with our 2020 twins, very satisfied with the high quality and firmness of these latex mattresses. Since on the subject, can anyone recommend a quality cover/encasement that is waterproof and conforms to the curve of the Oliver?
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There is a new video on the Sprinter-Forum highlighting the Atmos 4.4 in a ‘non-ducted’ installation on a 2020 mini motorhome (make and model escape me). Unlike other videos posted in that forum, this one mimics more closely the perceived install in an Oliver IMO.