Ronbrink

Sorry for the delayed response. I installed two HQST 100W 12V flexible monocrystalline solar panels on top of the A.R.E. bed cover; other equipment to include a Haoguo ABS solar double cable entry gland, EternaBond EB-RB020-50 Roof Seal 2”x50’, Renogy 20A MC4 waterproof inline fuse holder and a Victron SmartSolar MPPT 75/15 solar charge controller (all Amazon purchases). My Son provided a length of solar cable and MC4 connectors needed. The panels were positioned and secured around the edges with the EB tape, a hole was drilled through the bed cover at the cable gland and wires were routed inside to the charge controller. I built the portable 100 Ah power station to primarily run a Dometic CFX 75 dual zone cooler staged in the TV bed.

The other version of a 7-Pin holder widely used. Regardless of the type holder, it is good practice to use dielectric grease to further protect the plug contacts from moisture and dust intrusion.

Actually there are three wires (red, white, green) in the white sheath leading and connecting to the thermostat.

You’ll have to stretch your imagination a bit, hopefully you can visualize in your mind’s eye the approximate location. The control box occurs in the void between the bottom of the roof unit and the top of the new mounting frame plate, that space being the depth of the cutout measured from roof surface to ceiling surface. In the first pic (Dometic) the box would occur in the vicinity of the white label seen over the drain line. The second pic (Atmos) is a bottom view of the mounting frame plate with the box being situated on its’ topside, nestled up against the duct, a couple inches from the top right mounting bolt and faced outward along the downward angled edge of said plate. Looking closely at the third pic you can see the threaded bolt to the left and duct plate immediately right of the control box. The forth pic shows the three wire thermostat cable. The last pic may be of interest, wiring diagrams for the control box and thermostat. Hope this helps.

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As previously indicated, my Dometic furnace is ‘good to go’! I will preface the following by saying this task was not as difficult as first perceived, perhaps because my DPll 11,0000 BTU unit wiring setup was unique. When installing the Atmos I did not take time to mess with the furnace wiring and thermostat dilemmas, one hurdle at a time. Having watched several install videos on SOBs and closely followed @rideadeuce’s experience with SDG, I remained uncertain regarding the furnace apparatus; wiring configurations varied and In all instances the existing thermostat was abandoned. While dismantling the DPll I found all AC/DC wiring involved a plug&play box, specifically a control box as part of a Dometic single zone kit to include a thermostat and wiring harness, as well (PNs: control box 3313191.000, thermostat 3316410.700). I didn’t think much of it at the time, since the Atmos junction box was all needed to connect AC power. However, in the days following the install my thoughts focused on the furnace and then it occurred to me that maybe the control box could be retained, making use of the existing DC harness and stock thermostat. First some afterthought matters to address: When installing the Atmos A/C wiring I did not utilize the inherent strain reliefs within the junction box, so it was opened, wires further secured, done. I decided to better seal the fiberglass edges of the ceiling cutout to inhibit potential unwarranted air draw (from within/between hull walls) given the higher operational CFM of this unit. In particular where the wires entered, a piece of closed cell foam was cut to size and shoved into the opening followed by an application of foil tape around said cut edges, to the extent possible, done. Onward! Here is how I proceeded forward: The ceiling grille was removed, mounting frame plate bolts loosened to free the loom wrapped DC wire bundle tucked away at initial install and ensure clearance of the control box within the void of perceived securement, DC wiring harness connected to the control box and all staged for an operational test of the furnace/thermostat. With AC/DC powers restored, I was pleased to find the Dometic thermostat operational, but had to chase an E5 code on the display. Although specific to the a/c, the freeze sensor wire needed to be plugged into the control box to clear the code. In order to test the furnace the Atmos was first used to drop the interior temp to 73.8° with the thermostat ‘FURNACE’ set to 77°. Voila! Following a second successful test of the furnace, the mounting point of the control box was cleared of an adhesive stock piece of foam and box prepared for installation. A self-adhesive strip of Velcro was applied to the leading edge of the box and subsequently affixed into position. The foam piece was then positioned against the box and pressed in place to help stabilize it. Next, corresponding wires were connected in respective ports, wire loom secured with tie wraps and tucked away, mounting frame plate bolts retightened, cover grille reattached and decorative screw covers placed for a final install, YAHOO!

I have two of these locks on my skiff/trailer, one for the OB motor and another for the trailer hitch pin hole (keyed alike); great for tight quarters such as may be encountered in the battery box. I’ll take one and check for adequate fitment at the battery tray, as well as the bulldog, and report back. The reduced shackle exposure provides increased security, making it more difficult to reach with a bolt cutter or even grind.

Since you mentioned the Atmos remote, I received the replacement GREE model from Amazon this morning; primarily because it has a backlight, which the stock remote lacks. Based on the product description I was unsure if it would work with the Atmos, being ‘This is NOT a universal air conditioner remote control’ and there was no compatible match. Free Returns, right? Well, I’m happy to report is does work, at least good enough for now; it came with no instructions so I need to further assess its full functionality. Better yet, it fits in the stock wall mount! BTW, I have the same Dometic thermostat.

Same here, but never say “never”!

In ONE rare instance I lifted the back of the Oliver up high enough to level on a downward slope, whereby all four tires cleared the ground. I thought, “that’s cool”! Yes and yes, the trailer remained hitched to the TV and I severely regretted deploying the ‘landing gear’. Upon descent and ground contact, I came to the realization that the leaf spring shackles on both axles had flipped at the Dexter EZ Flex equalizer, YIKES! After several hours of toiling on the ground in the Texas summer heat and humidity I was back on the road. Not a proud moment, “chalk it up” as a learning experience!

My apologies for the post highjack. Getting back to your issue, any resolve? If your unit works fine on AC/DC, the problem could be the propane oriface impairing gas flow.

The interior fin fan wire was routed through an existing port in my Norcold, as seen in the above pic. The wire was then connected to a constant power source behind the fridge. You may recall that I tapped into the Oliver’s 12V DC to create two sets of lead lines, one for the interior fin fan another for the exterior exhaust fans (first pic). In your installation of the exterior fans the existing small block was used to provide power (second pic). Simply connect the interior fin fan leads to that block, as well.

This is the “simple furnace thermostat” provided by SDG. Take notice it is currently on my dining table, as I just came in the house from getting the Dometic heater functioning. That should tell you something! Details of what I was able to make do forthcoming.

Today’s project, making sense of this wiring to enable Dometic heater/wall thermostat operation. This pic was taken during the Atmos install of the stock DC wiring harness. Standby!

You got that right, ‘low’ is the way to ‘go’! Camped for a week in moderate ambient temps and found this energy miser mode to be sufficient to meet our cooling needs. Best of all, this light sleeper didn’t have to fuss with ear plugs! Also had an opportunity to use the heat pump with night temps dropping into the mid to upper 60s. There is an increase in noise level, but this mode heats quickly and the fan shuts down completely between cycles. Love me some Atmos!

The inside fan for air circulation really helped in spreading the cold and maintaining a more consistent temperature.

I set up a dedicated table at the garage and use the outdoor shower for a hot water wash and rinse; tub, dish drainer, soap, sponge and shower head holder all kept within easy reach. Maybe you could extend the hose to reach your table when used as a wash station.

Just returned from a week long trip since the two exterior exhaust and an interior fin fan were installed on the Norcold 3-way. Prior uses required levels 7-9 depending on time of year, for example level 9 in 100+ Texas temps. Although ambient temps this go were mostly mid 80 to lower 90s, level 5 was the sweet spot for all modes of operation; level 6 was not egg friendly at the top shelf in front of the fin/fan combo and ice in the freezer was too cold to handle with wet fingers! No doubt this fan system, as described, vastly improved the efficiency of my unit and will hopefully extend its’ life.

Your LP regulator may not be functioning properly, check if the cooktop operates correctly or the QC ports, if equipped. Switch the regulator to the other tank, a tank valve may have been opened too fast and has an internal shutdown. If that doesn’t work close each and reopen slowly for the first quarter turn to reset.

True that! At times when positioning to dump the back of the Oliver will be a tad higher than the tongue with the TV sloped downward; like the dump point is on a slight peak, perhaps to accommodate runoff. That was the case yesterday at the newly installed dump site next to the new park headquarters at Tyler SP. Typically a lift with 60-70 psi gets it done, but as much as 80 at a few sites encountered.

I run 20 psi when just truck’n around, 30 when towing the Oliver, Today’s dump at 60 psi!

I installed an Air Lift LoadLifter 5000 air suspension kit on my TV soon after purchasing my OLEll. This system compensates for side-to-side weight distribution and cargo shifting, and is very useful in adjusting the rear height to level the trailer when towing. I also find it helpful in dumping the waste tanks by lifting the tongue high for improved discharge.

Rodger the high humidity! My former Dometic 11,000 BTU was a little less power hungry than the 13,500 BTU units, compressor draw usually ranged from 105 to 120A; thus, percent of power consumption would be less. The Atmos compressor draw ranges from 96 to 103A based on limited observations.

I see where your batteries were 61/62°, what was the outside ambient temperature? Trying to comprehend such as minimal battery drawdown with an hour of use; perhaps the fans were mostly running and not the compressor due to cold conditions. Also, I noticed in the video that the interior cover is mounted with the control panel end facing rearward, whereas most installations viewed has it facing forward, as specified in the installation Manual. Did you specify that orientation? I would think said panel would be much more accessible if turned around, especially with the bed in the OLEl. Regardless, the Atmos is an amazing upgrade, I share your enthusiasm!

I have no first hand knowledge of this, but the question has been raised before; hopefully someone will come forward with an affirmative answer.