Ronbrink

I am still awaiting a response regarding OTT’s consultation with Xantrex and a definitive answer to my question - Is this the norm for my Xantrex or is it not operating correctly? I did get the following from Jason E., which implies voltage will be maintained after bulk charge. I think a call in in order! FURTHER OTT RESPONSE: The charge cycle of the Xantrex can be changed within the settings either manually or by selecting a battery type and temperature. We typically select a battery type and manually update based on the battery manufacturer's recommendation. It will initially charge at a bulk rate which is higher amperage, as low as 30a for standard 12v batteries, 60a for AGMs, and up to 150a for some lithium batteries but this depends on the battery type & number of batteries in the bank. After bulk charge it will maintain the voltage but starts to gradually drop the amperage until it goes into Float charge which will be a low amount of amperage like they are on a battery maintainer.

I have since upgraded to a 40A DC-DC charger.

Recently posted to Oliver FB: “Nothing like a good morning cup of coffee while checking out the Oliver Owner Forum and FB. I’m the early riser and making use of my new Lagun table, front and center; the wife’s Lagun shows how it is used at night to stage extra bedding rather than out of reach at the dinette table/seats.” The Lagun tables performed as expected during a recent five-day trip. The only ‘cons’ thus far, are cost and the narrower passageway when the two are positioned directly across aisle from each other; however not that much of a hindrance and serves as a convenient support hold when navigating the narrows. Some ‘pros’ include unobstructed access to the night stand drawer; installation of a Lagun wherein the basement access door was opted; no need for removal and thus, encumber closet storage when not in use; no more maneuvering around the Lagun, as originally mounted, to access the rear attic; easy to move individual bed tables to serve a variety of purposes while laying in bed with unobstructed ingress/egress; no bed cover impediment; staging area for additional bedding or whatever; additional counter space at the galley for food prep; multi-positional standing desk(s); additional sofa bed seated dining; and, although not tested, perhaps a bridge between the twins as a platform for expanded bedding. ‘Nuff said!

I’ve been very pleased with my LiTimes: the 100Ah ‘mini’ in a potable power station, two 230Ah in the Oliver’s battery bank; each installed with a Victron temperature sensor for good measure, as well as Victron SmartShunts. Also installed a Victron monitor in the power station. A weight loss of ~150 lbs. by switching out the four 6V Trojan T-105s and double the available amp hours, what’s not to like?

Thanks to all, somehow I feel a bit ‘smarter’ by way of your responses!

I found the SAE connections in my initial install to be unsatisfactory. Either the wires were too stiff, there was too much vibration or a combination thereof, but the plug components would loosen, heat up and disconnect; very frustrating. Since changing to bayonet coupling components, problem solved. This is the set used with my homemade 100ah LFP portable power station for both input and output connections. These, as well as the solar connectors shown below, are also waterproof! Given the success of this style connector, I purchased a like product to use in my pending exterior solar plug installs, one forward at the propane tank housing and one aft at the basement hatch. Although the solar port shows 10A, I believe that to be a misnomer. The lead wires on the reverse side appear to be substantial enough to support a 20A system, and thus fine for use with a 200W solar panel.

I would think (meaning I don’t really know in fact) the Victron SmartShunt would have something to do with the balance of varied incoming currents, as each charging source independently completes their respective charge cycles to float, thus allowing them to “play together” to reach full battery bank SOC.

I see you have a good stock of cigars, as well! I’m an infrequent smoker, cigar with whisky, pipe when camping. Gave up the whisky a long time ago, but now reminded of something missing in camp! Nice looking pipe!

Bought similar at Northern Tool, brand name Big Ant, available in two sizes. I use two of the smaller in the further reaches of the basement; one for water-, other electric-related stuff. The first ‘in’ has a rope tied to it for easy retrieval, the second used to push the first all of the way back. Perfect fitment to maximize that available, but hard to reach space. Just know, I had no inclination to opt for the interior basement hatch door at the twin model nightstand, the Lagun table was the preferred option. Since these crates ‘nest’, I stack two under cap in the TV bed for miscellaneous, as well as two in the cab behind the center console for easy to reach items and snacks. As for the larger size, I find them very handy in transporting food and clothing to and from the OTT, with no intentions to take with.

I thought the same, went back for a second viewing to see if the pipe was just a prop, but saw actual smoke! That reminds me, I need to locate my ‘old’ deer hunting camp Peterson pipe, get some cherry tobacco, and carry with. Thanks for the memory jog!

This may be a given, but repositioning the twist latch catch at the bottom will need to be considered.

I too was waiting for some response! To your original question, I kinda remember seeing those long, narrow flex panels installed on an Oliver within the curbside lower trough between the awning and roof rise, in similar manner on the street side, as well as the center roof. Not to offend, but I passed on the solar option not only due to the added expense, but also because of aesthetics; the ‘roof wings’ simply did not appeal to me, nor potential effects on aerodynamics, as you mentioned.

True that!

My 40A DC-DC will not totally offset the power consumption of the Dometic’s 90+amp draw when the compressor is cycling On. At best, I plan to do the same with inherent limitations; wherein running the A/C an hour or so prior to stops during hotter times of year for the added comfort. I recently upgraded to LFPs and installed a transfer switch to operate the Dometic via inverter; a relatively simple conversion compared to the DC-DC install, but well worth the overall cost and effort! However, you do have an advantage, in that your OTT equipped solar panels will further maintain battery bank levels when underway with optimum climatic conditions. I suggest you move up your tentative DC-DC install to next spring rather than summer; time’s a wastin’!

As an alternative to lack of solar input, the DC-DC charger gets it done!

I added 200W of flexible solar panels atop the TV bed cap for the same purpose. Been great for 3.5 years! Since I did not opt for solar in my build, I’m now geared up to install a solar port at the propane tank housing to enable use of said panels to charge the OTT’s house batteries, as boondocking has become more frequent for me. Also adding a solar port outside at the rear basement hatch, inline with the other two ports for sat/cable TV. I plan to get a portable folding solar panel to further increase solar input.

Now there’s an idea! Would be great in getting my ‘late sleeper’ wife up to make this ‘early riser’ his morning coffee.

No, I just twist off the cover, wipe to remove any dust inside, tickle the spring a bit and reinstall the cover. Thinking either the dust interferes with the action of the spring or the spring is a little out of kilter due to ‘tapping’ the fixture as opposed to ‘lightly touching’ with the back of hand. That said, guilty as charged; if these lights don’t laminate when first touched, I invariably tap, sometimes more than once, until they come on. My bad! Just know, I am now 4 of 4 in remedying inherent issue with these lights.

We left Palmetto SP yesterday afternoon to have a late lunch in San Antonio, and upon return a few hours later the touch light above the sink was fading in and out. Strange, because no lights were left On. This is one of the lights previously mentioned with a prior problem, but this was a first for this anomaly. When I touched the light it went full bright, but would not turn Off! Sadly, I had to find a way to block the light since I’m a light sleeper, no pun intended! Enter a dinette seat back cushion; to no surprise, another reason for my wife to call me a ‘nut’. So to bed I went, bedcovers over my head, but awakened around 2am with a thought; the Master Light switch. In careful execution and much anxiety, flip Off, light Off; now what? So, with much curiosity, flip On, light still Off, yahoo! As not to push my luck, I returned to bed with a sense of accomplishment and drifted off to sleep once again. However upon awakening, more anxiety and curiosity; will the light come On when touched and operate normally? A resounding YES!

But they’re so sexy when wet!

It was an Amazon purchase, however………

Agree, my NOCO 10 has served me well for over three years on all kinds of batteries, even on recent upgrades to LFPs.

Personally, I find the touch lights very easy to use and efficient. Granted, I’ve had issue with three of them, two under cabinet and one ceiling center, but with each a simple adjustment of the spring (under cover) remedied the problem whether flickering or not coming On. And, they’re fun! When showing the Oliver to prospective buyers, they are always ‘amazed’ when I touch the lights with the back of hand, and they’re faces light up, as well!

When the Xantrex comes ON for brief periods, as you observed, is the ‘charger’ feature being activated?

Seems like a good plan, really like the power flow control switches. I assume you will be using clamps on the hose barb fittings.