Ronbrink

I was confused when reading that the ‘quieter’ a/c replacements draw 10 amps compared to the stock Dometic Penguin ll at 16 amps. I too have a 100+ amp DC draw on battery and understand now that the 10 and 16 values cited are AC amps, thus resolving the confusion. It’s also worth noting the aforementioned 100+ amp DC draw is with the compressor running, otherwise the draw is in the 30+ amp range. Also, when the 20 amp DC/DC charger is activated my draw values drop accordingly. I recently completed my transfer switch install with the information you provided and all is good running the a/c on batteries now. Thanks for the assistance, much appreciated!

Sounds like you’re gonna DIY the bearing overhaul! Did the same last May, went with the Timkens as well, from Summit Racing. The CRC degreaser and brake cleaners I used worked great along with a parts cleaning brush and drip pan. I also ordered a brass drift punch for use in driving out the races and the Red Line CV-2 grease that John E Davies highly recommends. I found placing paper towels under the spindle prior to installing the bearings useful in keeping grease off the underlying brake components. Since the wheels are off and grease likely leaked from the rear seals, take time to throughly cleanup residuals and wash the tires. If you haven’t done so already, now would be a good time the replace the grease zerks with the angled variety. Many install 90°, but I choose 45° from Grainger’s. Good luck with your endeavor!

My auxiliary fridge/freezer setup may be of interest to some. THE UNIT: Dometic CFX 75DZW, acquired a month prior to delivery of our 2020 OLEll, #579, in January of that model year. It has not only served us well on all of our ‘Oliver Travels’, but also during extended home power outages due to ice storms and hurricane events. I generally stage it in the house on a cart to bring up to temp, then start loading a day or two prior to departure. The cart really makes it easy to transport outside to the TV. For added efficiency and protection, an insulated cover was installed, as well as a layer of Reflectix on the sides and top between the unit and outer cover. THE LIFT: Fully loaded, the Dometic is way too heavy to carry out and lift into the truck bed. I mentioned usefulness of the cart, but also have a hoist staged on the trailer tongue for this heavy lift, as well as others such as the 30# propane tanks, generators and ebikes. The hoist conveniently folds and travels in the truck bed when not in use. THE POWER: The unit operates with household current as needed, but when underway a 100ah lithium portable power station I built keeps it running for the most part. Occasionally in camp it does require a NOCO charge, but a 200W solar array atop the TV’s cap helps to maintain adequate power. However, as backup I have run it on the move utilizing AC from the trailer’s inverter via a short extension cord to a front-mounted outlet. I can also power it from an Anderson plug installed at the bumper to power a DC/DC charger in the trailer. As a side note, I converted my Viair to utilize the Anderson, as well. THE HAUL: The unit is transported at the tailgate for convenient access, next to the power station, and can easily be pulled out onto the tailgate with help of furniture carpet slides affixed to the bottom. I keep a dedicated neoprene mat across the top to further protect and insulate. The picture is a bit deceiving, I now position it with the freezer/compressor end facing rearward; there is about a four inch space for ventilation with the tailgate closed. THE STORAGE: I’m fortunate to have a storage facility nearby, which is a good thing since the HOA will not allow! I have a large platform cart where most everything that goes in the TV under cap is staged in readiness, including the Dometic. However, the portable power station resides in the TV along with a couple of NATO gas cans and other miscellaneous items. The generators are similarly stored.

Good idea! I like nestling up in the dinette seat corner, but the window shade is not comfortable to lean against. Gonna look at the ‘white’ boat seat cushions for the fix. Thanks

I have the BedRug bed liner and travel with a Dometic CFX 75DZ, really heavy when fully loaded. To ease moving it out to the tailgate for better access, when necessary, I installed large furniture slides for carpet at each corner and attached them with Velcro.

I have a Renogy 20amp DC/DC charger installed in the Oliver under the rear dinette seat, near the battery bank. It was reconfigured for lithium following the battery swap, as well as the Xantrex 2000. The extent of my boondocking is mostly overnight stays while traveling, destinations generally CGs with hookups. In the event the battery bank becomes too depleted and insufficiently charged, I carry generators. In the past, the smaller generator was run from the tailgate for a/c, as necessary. As a contingency, I currently have a 200w solar array atop my TV for purpose of charging a 100ah lithium portable power station to run a Dometic CFX 75DZ cooler staged under cap in the truck bed. My intent is now to use that solar to supplement the Oliver’s house batteries if need be, whether driving are stationary. Given this information, please advise if you have any recommendations to help strengthen my ‘plan’, much appreciated!

Stuff happens! Used the rear stabilizers to level my 2020 OLEll 579 once, ended up lifting all four tires off the ground. Didn’t know until the next day that both axles had dropped, yikes! Struggled for two hours in heat and humidity, but finally got it done. Random act of stupidity, lessons learned!

Thanks Mary! I take it you never attempted to run the original Dometic a/c on lithium. I just upgraded to 460Ah/no solar, in my 2020 OLEll 579 with hopes of running the stock 11,000 btu Penguin ll for a couple of hours during rest stops and lunch breaks on the lithiums. Still have to do some rewiring to make it happen based on input from others that have done the same. My next project will be to upgrade the a/c to a quieter unit; I find the information you provided and resulting discussion about the Freshjet very inspirational. Again, thanks!

Mary, I’m interested in knowing the total size of your lithium battery setup in Ah. Trying to equate the actual usage over the stated run time. Thanks

Understood, I had the same dilemma and concerns with my install. The under-cabinet mount could impede access to the light switch, so care needs to be taken in positioning; although right-handed I find it easier, given the restricted switch access, to now reach in with the left hand, palm up, and turn the switch on with a fingertip. I became accustomed after a few times and this concern is no longer an issue. I was also concerned that a rod passing under the light would adversely affect the lighting, so to negate the issue a ‘clear’ acrylic rod and plastic rings were used; problem solved. It seems a rod installed under the cabinet door, an option you are considering, would further impede the lighting. I like that the curtain hugs the corner walls when tucked away and that it can easily be pulled over to cover the window for more privacy, as needed. In doing so, the bottom of the curtain fits behind the toilet well enough to not be in the way when seated, a concern I had if the rod was positioned further out. I don’t see much difference in the two mounting options you are considering with regards to draping the curtain over the towel rack and toilet when showering. Good luck with your endeavor.

Brian, let me know if my install is of interest.

Gj, great information, thanks for sharing. I too like to have add-ons maintain a factory- installed appearance

All of your points are duly noted, thanks for sharing! There have been numerous recent comments on the Oliver FBs recommending diligent inspection of wiring connections, something I will definitely undergo prior to wiring in the second TS. I oftentimes use my smaller genny to run the a/c, which is probably comparable to the 2000w inverter, so I am accustomed to and conscientious of the limitations of my system. Again thanks!

Thank you, this is the pertinent information I’ve been seeking!

Gj, thanks for the information provided, much appreciated!

Gj, thanks for your response. We both have the same goal, however I have yet to do an a/c swap; that will be my next big mod for sure. I currently have the Dometic 11,000 with soft start in my 2020. Can you provide the basic wiring configuration for the second transfer switch, or is that illustrated in the Kisae TS instructions? Again, thanks!

How was the second transfer switch for the a/c wired in? I have a 2020 OLEll with the 2000 w inverter and just upgraded with 460Ah lithium, want to run the a/c on batteries for short duration during stops/breaks when traveling. Thanks

Gj, did you ever get an answer to your question?

Gj, please see my last response addressed to you. My son is a retired Naval electronics tech and asked me obtain the aforementioned wiring schematics for use in wiring in the additional transfer switch. He knows his stuff, so any informational details from you or any other knowledgable individual on how to properly complete the install would be greatly appreciated. My goal is to briefly run the A/C off the lithium batteries (460Ah total) during stops, and fully understand the inherent limitations of my system. Given the competence of my son, I feel he can perform this task in a safe manner. Thank you

Gj, thanks for your response! Can you provide any details on the additional TS install? I have reached out to Oliver for a more detailed and comprehensive wiring schematic, but they have yet to respond to the request.

Spike, was the Kisae transfer switch installed in addition to an existing one? I just upgraded my 2020 OLEll (no solar) to lithium, but the Dometic a/c only works on shore power. As I understand, the Kisae TS will allow me to operate the a/c via the 2000w inverter.

I did the same, the battery box is a great alternative location for my TST repeater. Simple installation with direct connection to batteries via clips and excellent reception of cap sensors (TV and OTT) by the monitor.

I have been able to run both of my dual fuel generators in the same manner, either directly to a propane tank or the OTT’s QC ports. The following has been posted a few times on Oliver FBs in response to others requesting pertinent information: To answer your question, alter the two stage regulator system that comes with most dual fuels by installing a QC between the first stage (primary) and second stage (secondary) regulators. When utilizing the Oliver’s QC for propane, the primary regulator is removed and only the secondary is needed to operate the genny within reach of a hose. I typically pass an extension hose connected to the Oliver’s front QC through the access port on the front tank housing and stage the genny on the trailer tongue, TV tailgate or ground. If you want to connect directly to one of the trailer’s tanks or a spare, you simply utilize the two stage regulator by rejoining with the QC. Attached photos show the divided regulator and secondary stage only being used to operate generator by an extension hose from the OTT’s front QC. Additional info: I too have the Westinghouse iGen4500DF and find on long hose runs to have the regulators close to the generator with use of an extension hose when spanning directly from a propane tank to the generator.

That is one solid pole mount!

Flagpole Buddy indeed, 1.5” mounts and 16’ fiberglass pole. The suction cups work great with the slanted sides, but proper spacing is important to have a perfect vertical pole. I like the versatility in positioning around the trailer, excluding the curb side if the awning is in use. Pic of mock up on curb side.