Ronbrink

I noticed that, as well. Their 2019 OLEll 505 and my 2020 OLEll 579. I have a feeling ‘we are not alone’!

Now there’s a thought, I have a piece of plate metal begging to be put to good use! Last welding task was a roller skid plate for the front TV bumper mount to protect the QuikrStuff bike rack and secure our ebikes; pic of roller mockup during fabrication.

I had just enough leftover web sleeving after covering my bike security chains to treat the Oliver tow chains. Marring the bulldog is one thing, but very expensive ebikes is another!

Thanks, your pic confirms what I suspected. I assume the reflective insulating material is first removed to ensure an appropriate bond of a mounting plate to the honeycomb material. BTW, I quoted you in my reply to topgun2!

I bought the Oliver new, maybe someone will be able to solve the mystery!

To quote mountainoliver “The material on top of the wheel well is fiberglass reinforced with the honeycomb material that Oliver typically uses. The honeycomb material is saturated with resin.” I saw this same honeycomb material in mods on the underside of the nightstand and Lagun tabletops when cutting them, as well as the center raised area under the Lagun and dinette tabletops when repositioning the swivel base and support post, respectively. In both instances, screws were used into the honeycomb material in mounting each. The honeycomb material on top of the wheel wells appears to be even thicker and with care, could probably be screwed into enough to fasten the small, lightweight equipment I’m looking to install.

This is a pic of my street side wheel well. Although the galvanized floor pipe flange is clearly glued, I am interested in knowing what material lies directly under it; whether that raised area can be screwed into to mount electronics. Any idea what purpose that flange had, maybe a production support?

Your pic shows a ‘white’ mounting plate under the components, was it glued or screwed down? I was wondering what material occurs immediately under the insulation layer on top of the wheel well, specifically the ‘raised’ platform under the ‘white’ plate.

I had a similar product mounted under a RetraxPRO Tonneau Cover, but ditched them soon after converting to an A.R.E. bed cap. These boxes require a lot of ‘swing’ space for convenient access (as designed) and are very restrictive as to the size of items placed within. Although they can be accessed in place simply by opening the lid, one would have to crawl onto the tailgate to get into it. Honestly, I found them useless when the bed is packed to the tailgate with camping gear and better use of the space they encumbered.

Resurrect indeed, your bed liner, slide and cap are great additions! I carry two Wavian NATO Jerrycans stowed in front of each wheel well; one with spare TV fuel (E85), the other non-ethanol fuel for the gennys (can be used for the TV in a pinch, but more-so for my two duel fuel generators when propane is not the best for given situations). No slide, but note the loft for ample stowage. A portable 100Ah power station is staged behind the driver-side wheel well for use with a Dometic dual zone unit. It is charged via a 200W solar array atop the bed cap. A folding winch hoist is staged behind the passenger-side wheel well for use in handling heavy cargo, as well as the OTT’s 30# propane tanks.

I have the Dometic furnace in my 2020 OLEll. I can’t imagine an extended run length to the other side of the basement would exceed that of the distance to the bath. I didn’t look, but maybe the Truma manual is referencing total combined length limitations. It will be interesting to learn what’s determined when you “really mull it over”!

Just brainstorming here, but if one were to disconnect the duct hose from the aisle grille below the curbside bed and route it over to the outdoor shower components within the street side bed rear hatch, heat may then be sufficient enough in that area, and maybe even the basement, during extreme conditions. The abandoned grille could then be closed off to lessen concerns expressed by some, regarding short cycling of the heater due to that grille’s close proximity to the main furnace return, as well as too much heat at the rear of the cabin. As discussed, additional return vents fore at the bath and/or dinette seat, and aft at the street side bed area would improve air flow within the street side hatches and cabin areas.

I do the same, it’s so convenient and less clutter inside; plus less water in the gray tank. I carry a collapsible wash basin and dish drain in the basement, as well as dish soap and a sponge; a dedicated table is transported in the TV and deployed when setting up camp. The stock shower hose length has not been an issue, but good to know it can be easily extended. Thanks for sharing the mod and reminder to all on use of the outdoor shower in this manner.

I had DT install metal valve stems on all wheels last summer on a return trip from West Texas, had two rubber stem failures (with mounted TPMS devices) likely due to extreme heat at the time (110°+). Upon leaving, I went directly to a nearby Walmart and deflated the tires to 55 psi. That would be my guess.

Thanks for the your very informative reply, much appreciated! However, I have the Cerbo-S GX, which is a less expensive model with limited functionality. I would like to install the VE.Direct Smart Dongle with BT to hopefully be able to monitor the battery bank from the driver’s seat via the app. Despite what I have read (GX devices are not compatible with said Dongle), maybe someone with practical experience can prove that wrong. Then again, maybe Wi-Fi is the ticket! Again thanks!

Curious, have you tried this yet?

Understood, my wife always cringes when I say “you know, I was just thinking”!

As eluded to in a previous post, it is my understanding that the Cerbo GX device is not compatible with said Dongle. Furthermore, the single VE.Direct port on the SmartShunt is encumbered by the VE.Direct cable connected to the Cerbo. Thus, I am still uncertain how to incorporate the Dongle, given my particular setup, if in fact the Cerbo VE.Direct ports cannot be utilized for this specific application. I am not savvy enough to figure this out on my own, so perhaps you or others can further advise if it is even doable. Thanks!

Yet another ‘out of this world of Oliver experience’! Thanks for sharing and clean up the mess, you may not be so lucky next time!

In a pinch, I would have done the same! I didn’t opt for the QC ports, as a cost savings measure at purchase, but was aware that copper gas lines were installed ‘fore’ and ‘aft’ with Oliver builds. Early in ownership, I tapped into the ‘fore’ with a ‘T’ fitting for a regulated extension hose accessible via the screw port, and simply removed a fitted plug on the ‘aft’ line to add a QC valve. However, prior to converting to these convenience gas ports I camped a few times either using the 1# or 20# propane tank. BS supplied regulator in use with 20# tank. Tap into existing regulated line for ‘fore’ QC port. I didn’t want the QC port to exit underneath, as Oliver installs, but rather higher to save my back and other intended use. Short hose extension and QC valve connected to a 10’ extension hose for the ‘fore’ QC port. An elbow’s reach into the port to operate the valve. 10’ extension hose staged atop the tank of proximity to the screw port. The hose is simply routed out of the screw port and attached the another hose extension(s) for use with the BS or fire pit, as well as intended use with a small generator, as needed, positioned either on the trailer tongue or TV tailgate. ‘Aft’ installed QC valve once fitted plug was removed. Adapter for BS QC attachment. BS to the Oliver’s ‘aft’ QC port via a 15’ extension.

Thanks for the detailed response, much appreciated! I read where the Dongle could be connected to most Victron devices, except for GX. My Cerbo has three VE.Direct ports, but if what I read is correct that is not an option. My SmartShunt 500 A only has one VE.Direct port, which will be encumbered with the Cerbo cable connection when installed. I have a Renogy DC-DC. I think I may have a problem if Option 1 is not viable. Good luck with your install and improved BT monitoring performance! Again, thanks!

Well you were right! Just came out of a two-day ‘Arctic blast’ across Texas. ‘Payback’ indeed, thinking all of my Northern Oliver comrades purposefully left their freezer doors open in retribution of my comments!

If you get the VE.Direct Smart Dongle, how would it be wired into your setup? I haven’t installed my Cerbo, but know it has a VE.Direct cable going to the SmartShunt VE.Direct cable port.

Mine shows those values for the SmartShunt in the Oliver (no monitor) and the MPPT solar charger for a 100Ah LFP portable power station in my TV. However, the PS also has a 712 monitor which is displayed as the ‘device’, rather than its’ associated SmartShunt, and does not display those values on the home screen. No Dongle. Screenshot of the PS monitor and charge controller only, the Oliver is in storage.