Ronbrink

I found this product a few year ago and really like it, been using their dielectric grease for 7 or 8 years, as well. It took a couple trips to work all of the old grease off of the Bulldog after initially wiping clean with paper towels, perhaps a thorough cleaning with a solvent would have been a better approach. Most of all, since it is clear/opaque there is no soiling of self or clothes. I also use a hitch ball cover when unhooked to help keep the ball free of dust and debris, as well as a clean hand when handling the hitch.

Understood, everyone has their priorities and responsibilities; you definitely have a full plate! I know from reading your posts of the time and effort spent modifying your Oliver and upgrading your TV. I would think getting away with both while spending time with the family to be very therapeutic, as well.

Very intriguing, thanks for your post! For future reference, what did you do to resolve the A/C issue?

Idle ramblings of a rabbit hole opportunist!

I find the polishing/waxing ordeal therapeutic, for both me and the Oliver!

I searched this forum and reached out to the community to glean pertinent info; my primary purpose in converting to LFPs was to be able to run the A/C via the inverter for short durations (up to 2 hrs.) during breaks and other stops when underway, and when at the storage facility for cleaning and maintenance. Formerly, I would use one of my dual-fuel generators on propane to cool the Oliver, but now the task is much simpler and a save on propane! Installation of the dedicated TS is very straightforward; I can provide info if a need is determined.

I have a Griot’s Garage G9 random orbital polisher with the optional 25’ quick-connect power cord, correcting foam pad set and waxing pads. I use the Meguiar’s 67 One Step Compound and Flagship Premium Marine Wax that @Patriot and @rideandfly previously highlighted.

I made the chore of ‘upper’ washing and hull maintenance much easier and safer by modifying a scaffold. Next go when the gelcoat needs love, I will work in 24”x24” increments within the area of reach for the various stages required to complete the polishing and waxing process from each positioning of the scaffold. Generally two per side and one each end, roof to top of windows. Once around then down on ground for the ‘lower’ reaches. Hopefully this will save a lot of time and energy!

I originally bought this 2” folding cargo carrier for the front of my TV, but ended up replacing it with a bike rack when our ebikes came into play. Often thought about installing a 2” receiver on the rear of the Oliver to make use of this carrier, as needed. The hinge is very solid and stable; never noticed excessive movement from my forward-facing vantage point.

I’ll have to take a closer look at the bundle next time I go to the Cow Barn. I kinda recall being told at time of delivery that the terminal ends can be accessed on the roof at a certain spot, as well as the aluminum plates for panel mounting, if ever solar was to be installed.

In watching the video, I assume they do all three stages in each 24”x24” area before moving on to the next adjacent work area. Is that how you see it or was this done only to demonstrate the process? Conversely, I’ve been completing each stage separately which isn’t nearly as efficient with regards to time and effort.

“Oh what tangled webs we weave”. Your persistence definitely paid off, good job!

Woke up thinking about this, so briefly researched and confirmed my recollection regarding the Xantrec Freedom XC 2000 in my unit. ‘All Xantrex Inverter/Chargers incorporate an automatic transfer switch. This switch senses when outside AC Power is present and transfers the load from the inverter to the source of incoming power (shore or generator). The unit also automatically switches from invert mode to charge mode.’ I suspect the ATS in the MP2 serves the same function and that an additional TS is required to run an A/C via the inverter.

I found a bundle of wires tucked away below the street side bed at the juncture of the upper wheel well and battery box against the outer shell. My thought at the time was these wires were part of the solar pre-wire setup.

It was my understanding that if the debit card balance wasn’t used within a certain time period, then a service charge would be assessed. I spent mine in short order to avoid that charge.

When converting my 2020 OLEll to lithium, I had to install a dedicated transfer switch to enable use of the A/C on battery. You may need to do the same; a few other owners on the forum have also discussed the need of an additional TS to accomplish this goal.

Thanks for pointing this out!

Born and raised in SA, first job as a teenager was a sacker at the Allena Village HEB. The biggest competitor at the time was Piggly Wiggly!

I see now where the holes can serve in securing the bikes with cables or even chain. Please post a pic of your setup with the rack and bikes mounted, thanks.

Most receivers I’ve seen are mounted on top, seems the bottom-mount (shown in the first pic) would impede opening of the rear compartment. The hitch and backing plate look very solid; the chain holes may prove useful, but a locking hitch pin will serve the same purpose. Nice mod!

I scanned this post, but didn’t see a stated axle size for your LEll; D35s or D52s?

How far down were you able to install the rigid ducting, within the vanity or further under the floor toward the galley?

Just sizing things up if there ever comes a time to beef up axles, springs and brakes. Thanks for your input, much appreciated!

Oliver is most likely installing the 6 on 5.5 hubs on both axle sizes, maybe to keep the wheels universal on all builds. I have the D35 axle with the 6-bolt pattern.

When doing a complete axle swap from 3500 to 5200, is the wheel bolt pattern the same for each axle or do the wheels have to be changed, as well?