SteveCr

I found the following discussion that seems almost the same situation that you describe. The RV owner contacted Progressive Industries and troubleshooted it over the phone...they sent him a replacement control board. https://www.loveyourrv.com/update-to-progressive-industries-ems-hw30c-surge-protector-review/ Update to Progressive Industries EMS-HW30C RV Surge Protector Review 1) I was able to break it! I was messing around with one of my Champion 2000 watt generators during a recent boondocking adventure and decided to try and see if I could fire up the 13,500 BTU Air Conditioning unit. This is most definitely at the extreme max of the generators performance specs and was very unlikely to work. But that didn’t stop Captain Curious. So I fired up the generator, went inside and turned on the AC’s fan, so far so good. Now time to hit compressor on button. A big groan could be heard from the AC unit then a loud Click! Click! Click! from the location of the surge protector. EMS-HW30C Surge Protector Installed in my trailer My wife Anne looks at me and asks, “What was that”!? Oh I just overloaded the circuit and blew the surge protectors breaker. No biggie. Then Anne gave me the look. Guys who do a lot of fixing and tinkering will know it well. Actually it was a biggie because my little experiment rendered our brand new Progressive Industries EMS-HW30C RV surge protector stone dead. I could not even see the error light lit up on the control board inside the unit. I had heard that Progressive Industries had great warranty service. I figured this would put it to the test. I emailed the tech support detailing what had happened, that I had no power, no display and even the error led wasn’t lit up. They replied the same day saying the control board was at fault and they would send out a new one free of charge. Then I had to send back the dud within 30 days. But we were boondocking and far from home? No problem, they just shipped it to the nearest postal outlet. I was relieved that I would have my surge protector back functional again soon. The board swap was very simple, just unscrew the top, unplug the the board connectors and then one screw that holds it in place. EMS-HW30C Surge Protector

Hello Pilots Lounge, We picked up Ollie LE2 last May. I have an Anderson hitch and a F150 TV. We've camped alot so far and I've tried a number of methods to deal with the whale tail. I've settled in on backing the chain tension adjustment nuts out until about one or two threads are exposed. When already hooked up I raise the tongue which reduces the chain tension enough that I can back the nuts off by hand. When hooking up I keep the Oliver supplied socket with a ratchet handy to tighten the nuts. For my set up, I tighten the nuts until I have eight exposed threads. Now that I have been doing this process for a while it has become easy and takes just a minute or so. Other methods worked ok but I encountered variences in difficulty also. Using the tension nuts Steve

Three filters: 20 micron from Camco plus 5 micron and 0.5 micron from Beech Lane...then regulator....but internal consumption is in case of emergency only. We carry separate drinking/cooking water. Overkill? Not sure, but I've had several really bad experiences from international travel. So, I don't mind a few bucks and 5 minutes of setup.

SNY SD UP Here are the parts I used to tee off the Ollie 30 lb tank and connect to an old dual gasoline Coleman stove. I used another adapter on the list to convert the Coleman stove to propane. I could leave the tee on the Ollie tank but so far I have removed it for travel. This set up will work for other appliances that use the 1lb propane tanks. Regards, Steve

Here are gas adapters I bought to use high pressure off the tank with a stove that has its own regulator. I went this route just because I have a number of older stoves, cookers, heaters, etc. It works very well so far.

Pennie, I picked up LE2 hull 806 on May 19th and since have camped in TN, Ga, & NC. I just got back from 7 days at Cape Hatteras. My LE2 is absolutely fabulous. The factory build quality is very good. I saw evidence of that during a factory tour last December...and I see the same in the delivered quality. There is ZERO shoddy workmanship. Oliver stands behind their work. I have one small issue with the AC dripping...and Oliver has a mobile service tech coming to my house next week on their dime. Not sure where you're located but my wife & I will welcome you/ya'll to come see our LE2 (in NC). Seeing the factory first hand and an Ollie first hand will help the confidence factor. Regards, Steve

I had turned off the 25 amp breaker labeled "Inverter" but then the Air Conditioner would not attempt to start. I did not check any other 120 item...I'll try that again next time and be more observant.

Hull 806, Lithium batteries, 3000 watt inverter, 2200 watt generator Here's my situation: My batteries are at about 85% and I want to recharge throughout the day with solar. I also want to run the generator and turn on the Air Conditioner. Once the generator is connected the battery charger immediately puts about 1600 watts of demand on the generator until the batteries are at full charge (about 20 minutes). Then the generator returns to idle and I'm good to turn on the Air Conditioner...works fine. My question for this situation: What is the best method to prioritize the air conditioner/other over battery recharging? Thanks....Steve

We picked up hull 806 on May 19th and camped 3 nights at David Crockett, 2 nights at Chester Frost near Chattanooga and 2 nights at Timber Ridge near Helen Ga....then home to the Winston Salem NC area. I'm an old Boy Scout that spend many a night under the stars, or in a tent, or in an adirondack....the LE2 is fantastic!!! The knowledge gleaned from Oliver University material and this blog helped us to have a successful launch. I had and still have a lot to learn but having sources to find answers and good advice is very much appreciated. The only issue I am dealing with is the AC sometimes drips water in the middle of the floor. During our first trip, we had cool weather and did not use it much. I turned it on a couple of times and ran it for 45 to 60 minutes. While running it did not drip....it dripped only after switching the fan to auto or after turning it off. It dripped quite a bit one time....enough to half soak a bath towel and it dripped slowly for several hours. I put in a ticket with Oliver and they authorized me to choose from a service center list. That turned out to be no good. Either the listed centers would not work on the Oliver or they would book appointments out into August. Oliver then authorized me to choose from a list of mobile rv repair services. I contacted one today that might be able to work on it in 6 weeks. Today I decided to run the AC at home and observe what may be happening. I put some dehumidifying canisters in the cabin. I ran the AC for 4 hours this afternoon. No drips while running. I turned it off and check an hour later and there is a small amount of drips in the floor....not even 1/4 cup of water. This is much much less than what we had while on the first road trip. (all windows are up & no fans running) So, my question is what is normal? Should I never get any dripping? Is there anything I can check or do before I can get a tech to look at it? Thanks, Steve

Yep..that's right. I wrote the 6 on nut to create a more visible point of reference. I have tighten it up about 1.5 turns since the factory install. I expected the whale tail to become more difficult to remove but that did not happen.....while following the recent "how to" video method. I'm adjusting to try minimize some front bounce on rough roads...I'm just about there with the adjustment you see in the pic.

Hull 806....I had a similar issue after I dumped the first time. The black tank drained to zero but even though the flow stopped the grey tank did not drain completely. I discovered this later and I also had water in the sewer hose. I thought that I had the Ollie level at the dump station but the next time I dumped I jacked it up a couple of inches past level....the grey tank drained completely and no water collected in the hose afterward.

With the LE2 on the ball and WD attached, the back end lowers a couple of inches...23 1/4 to the top of the BDog. The front end moves a small amount from 37 4/16 to 37 7/16. I'll measure again after i tow a while. Below's a pic...tough angle to tell much. I'll keep experimenting with tightening it up in small increments. At my first dump station experience with this setup the black tank dumped to zero...I thought he grey tank did also...the flow stopped. But I was surprised later when the grey gauge still read 30%. The next campground was full hookup. I saw that the grey would not empty completely at level...raising the nose did the trick. Not a big deal I guess...I just did not anticipate needing to do this at the dump station. I already have a tall block to minimize the jack travel.

Hello, Hull 806 LE2 I have a question related to TV weight capacity and adjusting the Anderson WDH. While driving down a rough interstate at ~ 55mph I sometimes felt some slight front bounce on bridge & road expansion joints. Will the WDH help eliminate this as I tighten the chain? Summary of Specs, CAT weight & tank loads at the scale

Hello SNY SD UP, I recently picked hull 806 and I'm also learning the Zamp controller. I have a 30 amp controller with 3 lithium batteries. From the pictures you provided, it seems as if your controller is performing the same as mine. Mine is performing as it should. One of the things I am working to get my hands around is the amount of Amp Hours I have stored in the batteries at any given time vs the number of AH I am using. Here is a link to a decent article: https://www.rvwithtito.com/articles/battery-capacity/. It may be that you are consuming AH at a rate that will not allow the batteries to fully charge. So, when on batteries I look to understand what is drawing amps and how to conserve those amps. You obviously know if you have lights on, using the AC or microwave or hair dryer...but there may be other items to check. For example, check the water heater to insure the outside breaker is off. I hope I can get to the point that I can estimate accurately how to "budget" my daily amp draw vs the total AH produced/stored. I don't have a generator...yet....but never say never. While on the road, my batteries were never fully charged off the solar because of the amps I was drawing at the same time. Upon returning home this week, I left the Maxair attic fan running ...all else off.....and the controller indicated the batteries fully charged during the next day. Hope my gibberish helps, Steve

Additionally, if the network is showing available but will not connect you can reset the tv to the factory default and then go through a short initialization process. This seems to have solved my 806 issues....now if I can just get the AC to quit dripping!!!! Reset the HDTV to Factory Default Settings To Factory Reset your TV: Press the Menu button on your VIZIO remote. Once the menu is open select 'System', then 'Reset & Admin', then 'Reset to Factory Settings' If your TV does not have a menu or your TV remote does not have a menu button, Press and hold the Input and Volume Down button (the bottom 2 buttons) on the back side of your TV. Until you get a message at the top saying 'To Reset to Defaults, from the back panel, press the Input button for 5 seconds.' Then press and hold the input button (bottom button) for 5 seconds until the screen goes black. Once this is completed the HDTV will reset to Factory Defaults and open the First Time Setup Screen Complete the setup with the VIZIO remote or the SmartCast Mobile Application If you are still having trouble after resetting your TV to factory defaults please contact our customer support team.

Hello, Steve with Hull 806 here. I had the same issue with no networks being picked up. Here is the solution I found from Vizio: If no networks are listed, or your network isn't listed, power cycle your router and TV. To power cycle your router: Unplug the router's power cord from the outlet or the back of the router, whichever is easier to unplug. If you are unsure of which cable is the power cord, trace the cords connected to the outlet/power strip/surge protector until you find the one connected to the router and unplug it. Once the power cord is disconnected remove any battery backup the router may have. Not all routers have a battery backup. Once the router is unplugged from the power and any battery backup is removed (if applicable) slow count to 10 then replace any battery backup (if applicable) and plug the power cord back into the router or outlet, whichever was disconnected. To power cycle your TV: Unplug the power cord from the back of the TV or the outlet, whichever is easier to unplug. If you are unsure of which cable is the TV power cord, trace the cords connected to the outlet/power strip/surge protector until you find the one connected to the TV and unplug it. Once the device is unplugged press and hold the power button for a slow 5 second count. The power button is typically located on back left lower corner or back right lower corner of the TV/Display. Plug the TV/Display back into the power. Once the device is powered on if no wireless networks are listed or your network is still not listed please contact our Customer Support Team. I completed the power cycle on the tv as described above and then all the expected networks were then listed. Happy trails !!!

Here's one to compare......quite mode.🙉

Clumsy ? Let me explain a different way....... My old suitcase Coleman stoves are white gas only. To convert them to propane the Stansport propane converter is required. Once converted, the high pressure hose runs from the stove to the propane tank. The connection to the tank is to the "Y" connector....similar to what I see in Landrover's pic. One three point connector and one hose to the stove or any other appliance that has it's own regulator.

I pick up my LE2 in May. I decided against the propane quick disconnects because all of my 20 year old stoves, cookers, fryers, etc have their own pressure regulators. My understanding is that they will not work unless connected to a high pressure source (can't have two regulators in series...it will lower the pressure too much). The LE2 has a regulator at the tanks so all the propane lines into/underneath are low pressure. So, what I have planned is to install a propane "Y" connector coming off one of the 30 lb tanks. One of the y connectors will go to the LE2 regulator to fuel the LE2 as normal. The other Y connector will connect to a detachable high pressure propane hose that will run to my stoves/etc. When disconnecting, I will need to turn off the tank and burn the hose length of propane....other wise the propane will escape into the air. Below is my preliminary list of components needed to convert a coleman stove with the high pressure source. No special tools needed. Priority Item Cost $$$ Desc 2 CAM59893 44 Camco Propane "Y" Adapter w/ Handwheel - Male P.O.L. x (2) 1"-20 Male 2 Gaspro conversion hose 52 GASPRO 18 Feet Propane Adapter Hose 1 lb to 20 lb Converter for 1 LB Portable Appliance to 5-40 lb Propane Tank 2 Coleman stove gas to propane converter 20 Stansport Propane Converter Option Dozyant conversion hose 40 DOZYANT 18 Feet Propane Adapter Hose 1 lb to 20 lb Converter Replacement for QCC1 / Type1 Tank Connects 1 LB Bulk Portable Appliance to 20 lb Propane Tank

In the old days of tailgate chains we sometimes used bicycle inner tubes to quieten rattle and prevent paint damage. I'm unsure if one or two short layers of tubing would fit this without a detrimental effect....or if it would eliminate the noise in this situation.

You might try this Honda dealer....a bit pricey but will ship to a home. Cycle Country Honda 4764 Portland Rd NE Salem, OR 97305-1760 https://cyclecountryhonda.powerdealer.honda.com

Here is the winterization link....water heater bypass valve at about 1:00. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zyVUNInNtUA&feature=emb_title

https://norcold.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/norcold-n1350-owners-manual.pdf N3000 owner manual link above....Code 10 indicates AC is not available....try DC/Propane or auto.

https://norcold.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/626800B_SM_N41N500N51.pdf Here is a link to the Norcold N41x service manual...if that is your model. I did not see a "10" error code...unless it is flashing a temp.