dewdev

Be aware that both the Oliver Elite and the Elite II mostly sell very quickly on the Oliver Classified page. If you see something you like, investigate it quickly. There is also a Facebook Oliver Sales group that has Olivers listed and they sell quickly on the page. Good Luck

I agree with topgun2 comments. I think that the omni-directional antenna comes with a signal booster located in the attic (upper cabinet at the back of the trailer). I have a push button on the cable plate. At my home, I got zero channels with the booster switch off. Once I turned on the booster the signal improved so that I got 6 or 7 channels.

Galway Girl, Your axle Serial # is also on the label attached to the axle that you included a picture of in your post. Richard

Backand Beyond- You second guessed what I did. Bought bearings for all 4 wheel and 8 seals. Galway Girl - Below is what I found in my research for part numbers. Universal Part# Timken Part # Outer Bearing Cone L44649 SET4 Outer Cup L44610 Included in SET4 Inner Bearing L68149 SET17 Cup L68111 included in SET17 Seal - 473336 Dexter Kit: K71-303-00 seal only Dexter Kit: inner bearing: K71-390-00 Dexter Kit: outer bearing: K71-306-00 The Universal part #'s are consitent with what WandR provided as an attachment in his post listed above. Looks like you found basically the same information. Richard

Thanks All - Very Helpful For those interested, here is the pricing I found from the below vendors for the Timken Bearings for our Dexter 3500 pound axle: Bearing SouthShore Bearing Summit Racing Equipment Motion Industries Outer Bearing & Cup $11.50 each $10.99 each $26.19 Inner Bearing & Cup $12.00 each $9.99 each $28.41 Seal $8.50 each $6.99 each $6.43 Looks like I am going to buy from Summit Racing. Richard

I want to buy Timken US bearings for my Oliver Elite II and have not had any luck in find a supplier at a reasonable cost. I do not want to buy through Amazon because I am afraid they will be selling Timken Chinese knock offs bearings, not real US Timken bearings, as I have seen mentioned in other Oliver forum threads. I spoke to Timken direct and was able to confirm the bearing and cup part numbers along with a part number for a National Seal but they would not sell to individuals, It seems I have been getting the "run-around" from Timken on where I can buy their bearings. The told me to go to their web site locator and the site will tell where I can buy Timken bearings. Timken's web site directed me to VIP Discount Auto. VIP no longer sells parts and VIP sent me over to their parts cousin, O'Riely Auto, and they do not sell Timken bearings either. I contacted every automotive parts store in my state and they do not sell Timken Bearings. I then contacted Dexter Axle and they would sell me their bearings but could (or would not) tell me who made the bearings they sell. Dexter then referred me to Southwestwheel.com and they would sell me Timken bearings. To buy one set of timken inner bearing and its cup, the outer bearing and its cup and a National Seal they wanted $61.18 per wheel which is $245.92 for a set of 4. HELP! Has anyone found a place to buy legimitate Timken bearings? Thanks in advance for your help.

Camco Sewer Hose Adapter - Attaches to RV Outlet Connection , Extends connection for Easier Hookup- Transparent Adapter Allows You to View When Tank is Cleared - 3.5" (39562) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B016V2JMBS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_NNAP7JSFTAYMD3C1KDVR?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1 I have seen in other forum threads a suggestion to have a elbow at the end of the hose at the dump site, whihc sounds like a great idea. Has anyone found a clear elbow similiar to the Camco Sewer Hose Adapter to use (noted above) so you only have one special fitting?

John: Your idea has merrit. I was able to find my 2018 Oliver this past December by having access to the forum Classified section. It would be a shame for non-Oliver owners to be shut out to the Classified section and would limit how present owners can sell their Olivers after they no longer want to own. The forum is an excellant tool to be able to maintain your Oliver and how things operate. I only wish it had a spell check function. RB is correct that people need to read their Owner's manual (paper copies or on the Oliver University forum page) before asking questions.

I am trying to get a handle on keeping the refigerator cold during traveling and when boondocking. I have 30 gallon propane tanks. I know it is somewhat dependent on temperatures but on average how much propane does the refigerator use in a 24 hour period (or on a hourly basis)? Do people have the refigerator running on propane while traveling? When traveling if the refigerator is on 12V power, will the TV keep the batteries charged through the power connection between the Oliver and the TV ? Thanks Richard

Pat and Molly: If you decide to not make the Teak items yourself, attached is a catalog from Foy Speering who is a Oliver owner in Florida. I purchased the shower mat, cutting board that fit over the sink and the silverwear organizer. Foy does a wonderful job in his wood shop and ships them to you. Highly recommended and you will find him on the Oliver forums. Richard Foybles' Catalog V2.0f (1).pdf

rideandfly: Is the Night Stand somehow attached to the floor or side of the twin beds? What did you have to do to remove it?

I know that the subject of tire pressure on Oliver's trailers have been discussed on other threads in this forum and as a new owner I am trying to decide weather to keep the Oliver recommend tire pressure of 80 psi (when traveling major highways) or maybe reducing it to 55 to 60 psi. what are other Oliver owners doing. You can respond to this post of complete the above survey. Thanks 1. Are you maintaining the tire pressures at the 80 psi, as recommended by Oliver, or have you reduced the tire pressure to something lower and what reduced pressure have you chosen. 2. For those that have reduced their tire presssure have they really found the Oliver travels better (less bounding). Thanks

My night stand has AC recepitacle, 12V and USB connectors on both sides.

Pat and Molly As I said on the phone congradulations. Since you looked at a few used Oliver's it should make your choice of options easier. Richard

RB: Is your bike rack on the back of the Ollie a receiver type? It looks a little different then what Oliver provides now. also I noticed that your parked Ollie tires are not directly on the grass. Is that plywood or something you purchased. Thanks

I just purchased a Oliver rear receiver and had Oliver ship it to me so I can install it myself. The Oliver receiver is a very solidily built unit. It is mounted to the top of the rear bumper with 4 bolts (2 on each side). Yes it is a 1-1/4" receiver so you will need a bike rack to accomodiate that size. Oliver took a 2" receiver and welded a insert into this receiver to make it a 1-1/4 receiver. They did that as they do not want more that 150 pounds (as I was told) mounted on the back of the Oliver. RB - Thanks for the reminder about the dirt and trash vortex. I will plan to use a cover on my carbon fiber bikes to keep them clean. Grit on the chain and gears are not good.

Wool - sounds very itchey to me. I stay away from it.

LL Bean sells sleeping bags with flanel inners.

Portland, Maine is warmer than Dallas Texas!! Crazy seeing people in Texas using sleds and skating in their yards (including the vehicles on the roads) Be safe in your travels and do not push delivery dates until it is safe. I do not want to see any Oliver's on the TV reports of traffic pile ups. The weather will change and be more normal next week.

Pat: In addition to the above responses, you might want to go to page 24 of the 2021 Oliver Mainteance Manual (found in the Oliver University web page). If you know the weight of your vehicle and the published weight of the Oliver plus an assumption of the weight of the items you load on the Oliver, you might be able to get a general idea of the tongue by working the formula shown on page 24. I would check with the Oliver Sales Staff who might be able to help further. Good luck

I just purchased a TPMS system and will install in in the spring before my first trip. Should I consider installiing a wheel counter weight oppsite the TPMS device which is installed on the valve stem, to rebalance the wheel/tire?

What brand of remote temperature sensors are people using? Are the fairly accurate and reliable? My Ollie does not have a hatch to open like others have in the bottom of the night stand so I am not sure how to get the heat down below into the basement as well as into the plumbing areas. Will opening kitchen cabinets help get the heat down below? Any suggestions short of cutting holes in the fiberglass? It looks like people are suggesting placing temperature sensors in the basement, under the bunks where the plumbing is and one or two on the outside of the Ollie. Is that the suggested locations? Thanks

This information is great. Thanks ALL!!

When I purchased my used Oliver a few weeks ago, the previous owner mentioned during his new Oliver orientation they had stated that 8 grease zirks (on each side of the trailer) on the Easy Flex system needed to be greased every 3000 miles (or every 3 months) and my Oliver Easy Flex system was now due to be greased. The trailer is now in storage outside for the winter with a foot of snow around it so I have been researching where these 8 grease zirks are located in and planning to grease them in the spring. Looking at Dexter and you-tube videos, I can only find 7 locations to grease as follows - 2 on each side of the Easy Flex where it connects to the springs, 1 at the top of the Easy Flex where it connects to the frame plate and 1 at the other end of each spring. That totals 7 grease zerks. Can anyone tell me where the 8th grease zerk is located? Has everyone found it necessary to grease these zerks every 3,000 miles or every 3 months, which ever happens first? ie. does the zerks stake the grease at those intervals? Thanks

After seeing a past post about bearings and if they are made in China, I did some research as I want to have a spare set of Temkin bearings on hand and be able to change out my bearings when I hit around 12,000 miles on my newly purchased 2018 Oliver Elite II. Here is what I found: - On my first call to Dexter they refered me to Southwestwheel.com. South West sold bearings made in Japan and Timken bearings made in the US. - A week later, I contacted Dexter again and they told me they sold bearings that are made in China. - After hanging up from Dexter, I contacted South West Wheel and they gave me the following information for Dexter's 3500 lb axle (but they said to compare these part numbers with the ones printed on my existing bearings): South West Wheel, Part # KT84 for Timken bearings_complete kit = $102.60 Timken Kit Contains: 2 - HL154A Grease Caps 2 - L44649 Timken Outer Bearings (1 1/16" ID) 2 - L68149 Timken Inner Bearings (1 3/8" ID) 2 - L44610 Timken Outer Races 2 - L68111 Timken Inner Races 2 - 55846 Seals 12 - X1023R Nuts 2 - 90601 1" Spindle Nuts 2 - A1W Spindle Washers 2 - 18X134CP Cotter Pins 2 - FS622P Torsion Axle Grease Caps w/Rubber Plugs 2 - FS122 Torsion Axle Tang Washers My first question - Since I do not want to buy the bearing kit and then start the bearing removal just to find out they are the wrong parts, can anyone confirm that these are the correct Oliver/Dexter 3500 lb axle bearings? Second question - Does this price look reasonable? Third question - South West Wheel also has a larger kit that also includes the wheel hub (the part that the breaks press against). For those that have replaced bearing (or repacked their bearings) is it necessary to replace the wheel hub when replacing wheel bearings? Thanks