dewdev

These southern storms are not good. At least the snow in the south melts fast (hopefully). The northeaster of this past Monday dumped 14" to 20" of snow depending of where you were in Maine, on top of an existing 6". The weater since then has been below zero at night and if we are lucky will get up to 20 degrees in the day. This morning it was - 3 degrees. Looks like this snow will be on the ground until spring time. In Maine we will miss the present northeaster hitting the southern states at this time. Hopefully Punxsutawney Phil tells us it will be an early spring.

Not to change the subject line but: - 3 degrees this morning in southern Maine at 6:00 a.m.. Heat wave at 4:42 p.m. today at 21 degrees.

The hatch that is mentioned to open is located at the rear of the trailer (if you have one- (it was a option)) that goes into the cellar (basement) storage area. The water feed piping from the campground water connection runs in this cellar (basement) storage area. The towel bar rack is in the bathroom. There are 4 screws (covered by the white plast covers). Take out the screws and remove the bar rack. The bar rack is likely held in place by some caulking.

I purchased my Hypervent material on Amazon. I only installed it under my twin mattresses. Over 5 years, I have not had any problem with mattress moisture and it can get humid here in New England in the summer. In the winter, I do put the mattresses on edge on the hypervent material. I personnally would not overlap the hypervent. I have seen on the Oliver forum where some people have also installed it up on the sides of the mattress against the wall (I think even with the top of the mattress).

@2008RNApprox 50% if storing for the winter months.

Happy New Year to the Oliver family. Do people that have these Dozyant propane tank (in-line) gauges happy with them. Are they fairly accurate? Thanks

@Tony and Rhonda Did you know that your attachment opens as a txt document, which is not readable?

@Geronimo John@Wayfinder FYI, in my 2018 Elite II, hull # 354, the owner's manual for the ATS says it is a 30 amp unit, I think it is a model: PD5110010

We have KTT mattress. It is very comfortable, but is heavy to move around.

Did you turn on the power switch on the Xantrex? This power switch does not need to be turned on if you have the Xantrex remote panel, you can turn on the unit from that push button switch.

@Against The Wind Best to check with OTT (to be sure) regrading the switch. Or maybe tracing the wiress would be helpful.

@Mike and Carol What brand is your screen and where did you get it? Also, how does it connect to the Flamma awning? Thanks

We just had the Xantrex XC 3000 Pro installed in our 2018 Ollie along with new Lithionics batteries. We notice that the Xantrex makes a running noise, I am guessing when charging the batteries. There is no noise when not charging. Is this noise normal and can the noise be reduced or eliminated?

Welcome to the group and congradulations on your purchase. To help with any future questions you may have, it would be very helpful for you to list your vehicle and trailer identification in your signature.

@ScubaRx had a great idea. Go to the truck fuse box and disconnect the fuse that provides power to charge the Ollie batteries (I am installing lithium batteries in the Ollie). A great idea to pull the charger wire fuse so there is no power in the line at all to the 7 pin connector. Unfortunately on my 2024 RAM there is no such fuse for power that would charge the Ollie batteries. The 2024 RAM fuses for the trailer are (1) Trailer tow backup; (2) Trailer stop/left turn signal, (3) Trailer stop/right turn signal, (4) Trailer tow park lamp. I guess I would have to remove the wire from the "Aux 12V Power" connector at the 7 pin connector, if I want to stop power from my vehicle alternate to not charge the Ollie batteries or find the wire in the Ollie to disconnect, but then there is still power in that wire. @Galway Girl and others that have converted from AGM batteries to Lithium batteries: Is the "Aux 12V power" on the 7 pin connector the wire to disable ??? Can the vehicle charge wire to the trailer stay in place when installing lithium batteries ??? Will the vehicle alternate be compromised if the wire is not disconnected ??? Thanks All

Thanks @mossemi. I did confirm that they are the solar wires. I did not know that the connector was a automatic resetting breaker. @Galway Girl. I was told by OTT that the red wire with the 1 amp fuse goes to my composting toilet fan. I believe that the propane/leak detector wire (which is likely in the corrugated wire guard) is connected to the red device with the two buttoms. I will be verifying this later today. Thanks

I think (based on a old Jason Essary email) that the black line going to the 2 button red auto reset breaker has the 7 pin charge wire. I think that is what @Galway Girl and their picture was referring to. Know I have one more question. Does anyone know what these wires go to in the attached photo? Thanks to all.

@Galway Girl My 2018 Ollie is slightly different than yours. In the picture below the red wire has a 1 amp fuse in line. Wht is that for? Sorry the picture come in upside down when coping to the foruml

This is a copy of my buss, which is different than yours. JD, any other ideas would be appreciated. Tomorrow I will check with OTT.

For my 2018 Elite II, I would like to find the charge wire inside the Ollie to disconnect it as part of a Lithium battery upgrade, instead of doing it at the 7 pin pigtail that plugs into the truck. Is the wire accessible inside the Ollie? A picture would be helpful. Thanks

My 2018 does not have the solar 30A breaker that you show in your picture.

Tony: It has been hot in Maine but not as bad as your weather. I started the AC about 1/2 hour before starting the work. I used a brand new plain metal toothed hole saw with the center arbor (drill bit) attached to a battery operated drill. I drilled slowly until the bit made the hole. I then drilled in reverse to get the hole saw started into the jellcoat. After the hole saw was started into the fiberglass, I completed the hole by drilling in forward. The hole came out perfect with not chips of the jellcoat. Be sure to keep both hands on the drill so the hole saw does not bounce around.

@Tony and Rhonda I drilled out the fiberglass in the pantry yesterday to install the switch. The fiberglass was only 1/8" thick.

@Tony and Rhonda I would suggest before drilling to put some (blue) tape on the area to be drilled and start drilling slowly so you do not chip the jelcoat.

@jd1923 The Progressive unit (for at the pole) has a metal loop so you can lock it to the power pole, so hopefully it is harder to disappear.