MAX Burner
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Posts posted by MAX Burner
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After routing wires and an Ethernet cable under the vanity into the closet for the Starlink system, it was time to finish up the “Cubby Mod”. Used some available 3/16” plywood from another project to fashion a shelf and bulkhead to help organize storage. Rattle-canned a white enamel coating and - poof! One and done:
Added 2 extra layers of insulation while in there.
Cheers!-
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On 1/26/2024 at 10:39 AM, mossemi said:
If anyone has any interest in going spelunking, please respond to this message and I start a list and make arraignments with the park.
D and I are in also... We've done Carlsbad Caverns in NM into some interesting "pinches" . HA!
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@Nan: Humbly suggest a PM to @Scuba Steve - he had this exact situation as you've described and can guide you to the solution set... just MHO. It is fixable - Good Luck!
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On 1/27/2024 at 8:08 AM, topgun2 said:
I'd be very careful putting screws through it because it is highly likely that your tires are under there.
That's exactly what's under there! Be careful, brother!
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Starlink 12vDV Conversion - Final Update:
Project completed. Decided to mount the components with white heavy duty Velcro. Tidied-up cable runs, all good. In fact, sitting in the OTT now connected to Casablanca Wi-Fi Starlink Kit” as I peck out this post on my mobile. Some pix that may be of interest of the final config:
Internet speeds have varied this afternoon anywhere between 135 to 260mbs down and 6 - 23mbs up, FYI. That’s just a function of this location and the Starlink System.
Cheers, All!
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On 1/29/2024 at 8:38 PM, dewdev said:
I added a switch in case of futher alarms/problems, but the fuse could be pulled instead of adding a switch.
Good idea adding an inline 1amp fuse... We also put a small piece of Scotch Tape over the REALLY BRIGHT green LED - it fully illuminates the front of the rig at night!
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On 1/20/2024 at 11:31 AM, jd1923 said:
I have no idea how some of you share such little space with your dogs! He's also 65 LBS and were not lifting him anymore!
HA! Couldn't resist quoting you on this one, JD! Magnus (4 years next month), the white one hails from Colorado Springs, Oscar's pedigree, OTOH, totally unknown to us. Doesn't matter, IMO, he's a rescue about 10 years, also 65lbs, but he's still able to jump up to his rack (with the help of the table top on top of the rack rails). Plenty of room for all 4 of us because the "boys" usually curl up into little "Husky Doughnuts":
But then again, sometimes we need to deal with serious "Dog Logs" in the passageway:
HA! OMG, we love traveling with these two Knuckleheads!
Cheers!
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On 1/22/2024 at 2:31 PM, Steph and Dud B said:
That's what's we do. The first vent under the curb bed is closed.
Same here, works well and warm air trickles from the wet bath vent below the TP dispenser....FYI
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...ok, Full Disclosure: a little "Box Envy" going on over here in the Great Southwest! Very nice mod, @Patriot!
Cheers, brother!
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STARLINK 12vDC Conversion UPDATE #2:
While after 5+ hours of "final install" steps, we're about 90% complete. Todays efforts include the following:
1. Power Switch: Determine SL power switch location, drill 1/2" hole in bulkhead, pull supply, ground, and load wires. Connect switch. Green LED illuminated indicates that SL kit is energized:
2. Prepare "Closet-end" ethernet cable with an RJ45 shielded connector. Test the continuity of the ethernet cable from the Dog House connection to the Duely circuit board inside the closet with remote tester:
Above pic show the rolling continuity test between Dog House and (below) closet end:
3. Mount Components: Roughly mounted components in general area of need with blue painter's tape. Final locations of component will be adjusted slightly for best wire runs. Planning to use a strong double-sided "carpet-type" tape for final install:
(L to R) Components are 12 to 5vDC power converter which supplies power to mini router, next is the back of the power switch, then the mini-router - power cord and SL ethernet cable visible on bottom of unit, finally - the workhorse of the mod... the "Duely Dishy 12vDC to 48vDC power supply and Power over Ethernet (PoE) injector. Visible on the Duely is the red LED "ON" light, the mini router cable on top and below, the SL Dishy ethernet cable from the antenna atop the EZ-Pole:
4. Prepare the power supply wires: Turned main battery bank switch to "OFF" which is located inside battery compartment. Connected positive (red) 12AWG stranded to main bus from battery bank below aft dinette seat/pantry area. "Anderson-clipped" an inline 10amp fuse (recommended by Boondocker.oi) as close to the bus as practical. Connected negative (black) 12AWG to the main negative bus which feeds into the Victron SmartShunt. After double-checking SL power switch LED "OFF", turned main battery switch to "ON".5. Energize the SL Kit: Ever watchful for the release of the magic smoke from black boxes, selected the "ON" position of the SL power switch. Got the green LED to illuminate - good sign. Peeked inside the closet - no smoke, another good sign. Opened the SL app and followed the connect procedures - exactly like with the 120vAC router configuration. The system behaves in the same manner with the 12vDC mod. Waited a few minutes for the system to go through its satellite connection protocol. Selected "Casa Blanca Starlink Kit" on the iPhone, Settings, Wi-Fi, which was programmed into the router yesterday during the test set-up drill. Ran the speed test and got 209up/12.5down - good sign, yet again.
6. Check energy consumption: The CERBO S GX registers our baseline (no systems in the OTT on) background/phantom wattage consumption at 8w. With the SL energized and connected and all other systems "off" the energy consumption registered 52w. So, that's indicating that the SL kit is pulling 44w. This is lower than we thought as during CERBO readings with the 120vAC/Inverter tests averaged about 70w, that's about a 37% decrease in energy using the 12vDC configuration. Not bad - another good sign.
FULL DISCLOSURE: Today's plan was to have the components full mounted and system tested, frankly, I ran out of gas - the components in the closet will still be there tomorrow when they get permanently fixed to the bulkhead. Oh well, it's time for a cold one, friends!
Cheers...
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Same here... We've never had anything but exceptional service from Mike, Jason, Hannah, and Ryder. Their performance only adds more value to owning an Oliver - giving owners confidence in their rig.
For example, last May we were headed down to Mexico and overnight near Tuscon, we discovered the water heater was inop. With no time to file a maintenance ticket, called Mike and we figured out that one or both of the two thermocouples in the Atwood unit could have failed. This troubleshooting was accomplished while driving westbound on I-10 approaching Tucson. Well there's a Camping World just north of the interstate, calling them we learned they've got both the electrical and gas thermos - in luck! Vectored to CW, bought two each of the thermos and replaced them in their parking lot - put the spares in the maintenance kit. One and done thanks to Mike's troubleshooting.
Keep up the great service, Oliver! BRAVO ZULU!
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On 11/27/2023 at 7:08 AM, Patriot said:
Is it really stable enough to handle a sudden wind gust? I am thinking about an aluminum awning bracket mount.
Thoughts?Apologies, @Patriot, for the delayed response.
Regarding the EZ-Pole with Dishy mounted during high wind conditions - could be an issue if extended to the entire 24-foot max height. The Dishy antenna is not a huge sail by any stretch - in fact, it's quite sleek and aerodynamic in a tilted position. We experienced high wind conditions in Quartzsite last week, the pole height was lowered to the 6.5-foot lowest setting, no issues - the down/up internet speed remained constant during the windy conditions. Our thoughts regarding the Dishy pole placement was simply to get it off the ground and out of the way. The height of the Dishy doesn't improve or speed up internet signals, but it could be beneficial in avoiding obstacles. In sustained high winds, we'd likely opt to place the Dishy on the quad pod in a protected area such as the truck bed.
If you and your lovely bride aren't concerned about having a dedicated SL kit for "XPLOR", our recommendation for y'all would be to modify the antenna such that it could be flat mounted on its roof. Roof real estate being a premium, the antenna dimensions are 12" x 20.25", so depending on your roof configuration, there should be a clean install location up there. FYI, there is a downloadable file available to have a low-profile plastic housing 3D-printed to encapsulate the antenna and its internal components. They're doing this all over the Ukraine and SL antenna shells are literally cast aside along the roadways!
However, some may not have the stomach to "not-so-surgically" separate the antenna from its shell - after all, it is a $600 piece of kit that would no longer be under warrantee by Elon.
Our's should be rigged-up by this afternoon and tested - so there will be more to share later on...
Cheers, brother!
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STARLINK 12vDC Conversion UPDATE:
After our 2-week Quartzsite trip which put us in 3 campsite locations on BLM LTVAs, it was clear that our Starlink system needed a more permanent install in Casa Blanca. Setting-up/stowing 3 times became a minor PITA. We discussed "how" we wanted to use Starlink and it basically came down to:
1. Maintaining the flexibility of using Starlink with or without our Oliver, such as a back-up to our residential system. Essentially, we still wanted to use the 120vAC option when not camping. Some applications suggest flat-mounting the antenna on the RV roof - this is a permanent option and not for our lifestyle;
2. Making Oliver Starlink operations 12vDC-based and not 120vAC which is the Starlink standard. Power consumption is estimated to be 18 to 25% less using 12vDC rather than using the inverter to energize the Starlink.
Spent the last couple days rigging up 12vDC-based "proof of concept" set-up. Using the solar port on the battery hatch for the power source, the test set-up included:
1. A Boondocker.ie sourced "Dual Dishy DC-DC power supply/PoE injector" circuit board ($88, direct from Boondocker.ie);
2. Power supply/PoE injector circuit board box (3D-print file downloaded free, $25 to print box locally)
2. GL.iNet GL-MT3000 (Beryl AX) Pocket-Sized Wi-Fi 6 travel router ($109, Amazon);
3. Acridine 12vDC to 5vDC converter ($12.99, Amazon);
4. LOCHSOEL RJ45 Interface Waterproof Socket Connector, ($17,99, Amazon);
5. Sabra Technologies Shielded rj45 cat6 connectors , ($19.99, Amazon)
FULL DISCLOSURE: If cutting a Startlink cable or drilling hull penetrations makes you lose sleep at night, this mod may not be for you.
Preparing the 12vDC-based components for the test set-up:
Testing the concept of the 12VDC conversion before running power wires and Cat6 cables inside the camper:
Description of components in above pic:
1. Upper left: The Starlink "Dishy" satellite antenna. Starlink uses proprietary terminal connectors on either end of the provided shielded 50-foot Cat 6 communications cable. The antenna end is designed to be compatible with the "leg" by being inserted into the tube of the antenna leg. The antenna end connector stays with the 12v conversion - the router end of the cable is not needed for the 12v application. The router connector is removed (cut) 3' from the router end. It will be used later when the cable is fit with a RJ45 shielded connector for the optional 120vAC residential set-up;
2. Lower left: Red Husky box configured inside to stow Starlink gear. The original Starlink 120vAC router and power cord - not used in the 12vDC conversion is on top of the Husky box;
3. On table: Black box (3-D print) housing the Boondocker circuit board, travel router (gray box with antennas "up"), 12vDC to 5vDC converter (small black box to left of router);
4. Power cord from SAE plug on battery hatch (solar connector);
5. Power toggle switch w/green "on" LED (not visible), ($11.99, AutoZone);
6. All connection power wires are 12AWG stranded automobile grade.
Prior to firing up the test, the travel router needed to be configured - standard drill.
Energizing the test set-up yielded blazing fast internet speed (screenshot taken right from the Starlink app):
Notwithstanding changing out the original router with the travel router and adding the Boondocker circuit board, the Starlink app behaves as normal - completely transparent as the major components are housed in the antenna and not in the factory stock router.
After cycling the test set-up "on/off" several times with power toggle switch, the Starlink connected each time with 2 or 3 minutes.
Confident that the 12v system will perform as planned after testing, we prepared the Cat 6 cable hull penetration. Using the existing DC-to-DC charger (1/0 cables) Blue Seas clam hull penetration, a 1/4" hole was drilled into the rubber weather seal adjacent to the pos/neg 1/0 cables in the clam to accommodate the Starlink cable. This hull penetration is located adjacent to where the 7-pin cable comes through from inside the vanity sink cabinet.
After feeding the Cat 6 through the clam into the vanity cabinet, prepared the penetration in the "dog house" adjacent to the flag pole mount.
"Weatherproof" RJ45 socket through the Dog House shell.
The weatherproof socket as well as all RJ45 connectors were tested for continuity with our cable tester:
Each Starlink cable end (except for antenna end) needs an RJ45 shielded connector...
The above connector runs from the inside "dog house" connector under the LPG bottles through the clam hull penetration into the vanity cabinet.
We decided to mount the Starlink kit inside the closet on the inner bulkhead. Wanting to have a dedicated power run, 12AWG red/black stranded wires run from the main positive bus under the aft dinette seat (red) and from the SmartShunt (black) then they run under the dinette table and forward seat, under the toilet into the vanity cabinet.
Drilled a hole just above the 2" black ABS plumbing vent pipe from within the vanity cabinet into the closet. Routed the 12AWG power wires and Cat 6 cable from above the plumbing vent inside the vanity into the closet then up and through the lower and upper closet shelves.
Today, components will be mounted on the closet bulkhead, power connections will be made, another RJ45 connector fitted to the Boondocker end of the Starlink cable, then test final install later this afternoon.
More to come....
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OK... You're boon docking in a remote area on BLM/Public land and you experience a critical medical emergency requiring local EMS response. A call to EMS on your commo device (either via local cell net, Starlink, PEPWave, SATPhone, HAM radio, or whatever) will require a hasty report with specific location information as accurately and efficient as possible. You may not have an accurate street address or may not know your grid/GPS coordinates.
Even if grid/GPS coordinates are known, this data is a lengthy alphanumeric string of up to 17 characters which could easily be jumbled up or miscommunicated in the heat of the emergency, sending responders to the wrong location.
Using the first 6 lines in a military-style "9-Line MEDEVAC" report is a good start to communicate for your EMS request.
Line 1 of the 9-Line MEDEVAC format contains the most important data in the report - your location, expressed using either grid or GPS coordinates or a simple street address. Clearly, this critically important data should be quickly and accurately conveyed to the response team in a life-saving scenario. The problem is making this happen accurately from a remote location.
An available free application has solved the problem - it's called, "what3words".
While attending an amateur radio campout last week, "QuartzFest 2024", one of the EMS presentations introduced this application and how it can be used to more effectively vector-in a response team. At https://what3words.com/products/what3words-app you can learn what this app can do to accurately describe your location to an EMS team using only 3 random words.
The developers of "what3words" have mapped the planet into discrete 3-meter grids, each of these grids is assigned 3 random words that never change. For example, sitting here in my living room, my "what3word" address is: "seamlessly.gossips.bottle". Should an emergency response be needed here, we could contact response personnel and pass along these 3 words to describe the location of the emergency. Provided the local EMS has access to the free app, many do, they'll be able to navigate their way to my living room.
Responders across the country are using this app, as are companies like Amazon, Uber, and food delivery services, to bring their resources to a precise location without grid/GPS coordinates or inaccurate street addresses. The "what3words" address is compatible with many navigation apps and can be shared via text.
Turns out, last year during the QuartzFest, an attendee experienced cardiac arrest. One of the HAMs contacted Quartzsite EMS, quickly communicated the specific "what3words" address of the patient's location and EMS deployed to that grid square using the app's navigation feature.
We've got our family members up to speed on the "what3words" capabilities and would like to get the "word" out to the OTT RV community to consider using as part of their boon docking regimen.
Stay safe out there!
Cheers!
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@Patriot - exactly correct... Thanks for clarifying.
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@thompsonkd: Go back further (on the Oliver side) into the wire loom - you'll see that there's a single red wire (+12vDC)... You'll need to connect that red wire to the RV Safe detector - suggest adding an "on/off" switch since you'll be in there anyway...
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We use these values (screenshot from our maintenance and trip log):
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8 hours ago, Jason Foster said:
I suppose I would change my mind if I owned an Airstream with one battery mounted on the front. Those things are dependent on external power sources unless someone refitted them with a much larger battery bank and solar. This is also one of the other reasons I went with Oliver over the Airstream. I don't want to be dependent upon someone else's power.
Right on, brother. We've come a long way from starting with a '78 VW "Westie" which had a single lead-acid battery and shore power provided by a standard 20A extension cord - no GENSET. Progressed to a 12' pop-up tent trailer/lead-acid/but after adding a Honda 1000 we thought we were in RV Heaven (kick myself every time I think about selling that Eu-1000i)! Two highly modified AS's and a Casita later, we landed in our Casa Blanca, now with an Eu-2000i. We configured the AS's with two AGMs and 250W worth of solar modules - but not enough energy to boon dock for extended periods without firing up the Honda.
After just completed a solid 2-week trip to AZ, neither the OTT power cable or the Honda saw the light of day. Granted, mild WX conditions contributed to that. But it's a wonderful feeling not relying on someone else's power. Our thoughts are now (in terms of upgrades), is much like @mossemi explains... wait until the Xantrax 2000 dies and move into a Victron Multi 3000 inverter/charger. At that point, we'd be able to run the Dometic AC unit off the Battle Borns for a few hours. Looking forward to integrating a Victron inverter/charger with our Cerbo S GX unit.
Then there's always a Nomadic 12vDC AC unit on the horizon.... HA!
Cheers!
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So, everyone's camping style is slightly different depending upon their needs, wants, and desires - that's been discussed here regularly and it's a good thing, IMO, to recognize that we all have different ways to "roll." Right?
Regarding the shore power cable... It's rare that we use the cable (or the Honda GENSET, for that matter) anymore. They both live in the bowels of our TV. We're happy with just letting the 540Watts of solar modules ramp up the BBs... We rarely find ourselves in a "pay for hookups" campsite, unless it's necessary for a particular route to get to a boon docking site. But hey, if it's WOXOF out there, we'll definitely dig out and use the cable/GENSET to top off the bank, if needed. Both items are considered backups at this point.
One is none, 2 is one.
HA!
Cheers!
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On 1/27/2024 at 9:51 AM, mossemi said:
I will draw an outline of the mounting board on the Reflectix insulation and remove the Reflectix by cutting and scraping to provide a clean surface for J-B Weld epoxy.
OMG: We love JB Weld!!!
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1 hour ago, dewdev said:
The newer Oliver TT have a method to lock the drawers by pushing them in tight to the cabinet. . Must be some type of locking mechanism. Can these locking devices be added to the older trailer drawers?
Our 2017 wasn't configured with the positive locking drawer hardware - so we stole JDDavies' suggestion for adding drawer straps. I had taken a couple high-G turns on one of our first trips and launched the right side middle drawer (with a heavy Dutch Oven inside) into the passageway. The "JD Fix" with Footman Loops solved the problem:
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The dry-bath would be incentive to get into a larger Oliver - but we wouldn't be interested in a 30-footer.
We had a 31' AS and although comfortable inside, too limiting for our particular camping style. OTT would get our attention If they offered a dry bath 27' - because any larger of a rig wouldn't fit in the Man Cave... HA!
Those "Plugs" that OTT uses to form the hulls are not a cheap date, just like @topgun2 mentioned.
Offering a slightly larger dry-bath rig with other amenities would definitely worm OTT into Airstream market space - 100% concur w/ @HDRider's comment.
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FYI: We're in campsite A-6 across from the dog park.... WOOF!
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....what about the outside shower? Do y'all clear those H&C water lines pneumatically? Just curious
A Bedside Convenience Shelf and Cupholder
in Ollie Modifications
Posted
I'm liking the re-purposing of the bike water bottle racks! SMART! 😎