Overland

Sherry I wonder if you could find a marine hatch the right size for those vents. Seems like the bottom one especially would make a nice exterior storage compartment for...something. I suspect that your fridge was cheaper primarily because it doesn’t have an Isotherm sticker on it. It’s a high quality sticker that requires specialized workers to apply.

No limit so to keep legal you shouldn’t use high power in those frequencies. I should point out that to gain access to the MURS frequencies on ham radios you have to do what’s called a Mars/Cap mod. In other words, it’s up to you to make sure that you’re licensed for whatever frequency you’re using and not transmitting with too much power.

Don’t know. They were looking at putting compressor fridges into the single axle at one point, but only because they had a hard time finding an absorption fridge that they could easily replace. Eventually they found a small enough one though.

Probably, but then if someone is dumb enough to hook another trailer to their Ollie, then they’re probably dumb enough to use a 1 ½” hitch to do it.

Surely Oliver can be convinced to put a 2” tube on their receiver. This seems to be a constant complaint on the forum.

I like the zipper.

When you choose the cabinet option, Oliver builds out a wood cabinet that covers the fiberglass. At least on mine, the wood was unfinished, so I coated it with poly so that it’s easier to keep clean. My cabinet door is supported on the left with a cable, which you can see in the photo. I had to adjust it a bit to make it level when open, but yes we can use it as a counter for light things. When traveling, we stick a silicon drying mat inside to keep the tray and rack from jostling around too much - we learned after our first trip that both will vibrate against the glass door and can actually scratch it. I think my wife also stuffs a towel around the oven to keep it from moving around.

Here you go - we just pull it forward a bit when we cook, to get the back away from the wall, and have never had a problem with it getting too hot.

Susan, we have the same Breville, and imo it sits far enough forward that the cabin lights are sufficient. There’s no light in that space. We added a shelf above the oven to hold plates. I’ve added strip lights in the pantry and inside each of the hull access areas. Those are the only spots that we felt needed extra light. I think I saw that Oliver is putting lights in the pantry now though, or maybe I dreamed that.

The link I gave is just to the generic listing which defaults to the 10’. Mine is actually a 13’ - I think that the 14’ version was just a bit too long for my Carefree awning vs David’s Fiamma. If you plan to order one, I’d suggest that you measure your awning just to make sure.

I don't think anything shows through the black doors at all with the lights on. You could probably see the light around the edges though, which I don't think would be an attractive look, and so might be something to think about. I don't know if other Oliver owners flip those lights on and off every time they open an upper cabinet. Seems like that would be a pain - we just flip ours on with the other lights and leave them on. In fact they probably stay on more often than the others since they provides a nice diffuse light to the trailer. Oliver used to do a white door, which though opaque did glow a bit with the lights on.

That could be. I don't remember who told me that but it could have just been Oliver's way of telling me I'd customized too many things already.

The story I was told is that in order to get RVIA certification, all the plumbing fixtures have to be RVIA approved. It's probably a racket, but that's supposedly why Oliver had to switch from the marine faucet in the bath. Like Mike, I swapped out our kitchen faucet, too.

I'd be curious to know how they work for you. That's the exact model I had - I'm sure that I either had something set wrong or one of the radios was bad, but I couldn't get help from Motorola in getting it figured out which is why I switched. I preferred the simplicity.

Not for the MURS frequencies. Our default is the blue dot channel and we've never had a need to switch to another. For the rest, yes, if you need to use them. It's nice to know that we have the ham frequencies available in case of emergency (no license required for emergency use), and we keep a cheat sheet on our phones to remind us how to use them if we ever need to. We've also found it handy to be able to monitor park ranger frequencies.

Oliver should have some high quality branded tire covers made up. It probably wouldn't cost that much and I'm sure more than a few owners would buy them.

The new Icom V86 is $125 at gigaparts.com. MilSpec construction, IP64, etc. It's not going to be in the easy to use category since it's a ham radio, but you won't beat the quality or range with any other handheld. I had a problem with the Motorola radios we initially bought, since it took a few seconds after pressing the key for them to actually start transmitting. I sent them back because of that and ended up with a pair of Icoms and they've been great.

Thanks, John. Well we're sensitive and it causes us to act out on occasion.

We had a few extra back cushions made for ours. We had them made slightly smaller so that they sort of have the look of throw pillows. The extra 4” is pretty much perfect for sitting. We also have a couple of large throw pillows and it’s a nice combination to accommodate both lounging and sitting up straight - really nice in combination with a Lagun table. During the day, the throw pillows also hide our sleeping pillows, which get stuffed in the back corners.

So is your username any indication of what vehicle you’ll be towing with? If so, you’ll need to get to know @John E Davies. He’s the land cruiser aficionado on the forum, and speaks highly of their towing ability.

Earthcruiser uses a cassette unit and if it’s good enough for a $200k rig then it’s good enough for me. The question is how to fit it it the Ollie. I think John D. looked at doing one prior to ordering his Ollie - you might send him a PM or maybe he’ll see the topic and post his opinion. Personally I think the composting toilet is a great choice, though it’s worth looking at alternates to Oliver’s offering. There are some newer brands out there that are interesting. We used one of these in our last few years of tent camping and I’ve got to say it was a pretty good solution. In fact it’s so compact that we still often pack it as a backup. At the end of the day, dealing with poop is unpleasant regardless how you do it. Just pick your poison.

That could only mean that they’re adding a hybrid charger/inverter, which imo is really the key to getting the most out of them. (Maybe also Bluetooth monitoring, but then you can get that with a $200 battery monitor. ) Still, I’m of the opinion that for an E2, 400 Ah is the minimum to make LFP beneficial over a standard setup. Less than that, and you’re just spending money with little practical gain, though arguably it’s a better base system to expand upon. For an E1 it’s a different matter - even 200 Ah of LFP would be a benefit. 600Ah is the real goal for an E2, which should be possible, if you’re creative with placement, or willing to do a separate BMS with generic batteries. But all this is just talk until they tell us what they’re offering.

True, you might not be able to run the AC all night and recharge in the day, but being able to put the AC on for a lunch stop or to cool down the trailer quickly before cooking dinner is a real benefit in real life.

I had the same issue with the rear curbside porch light when I picked up mine. Apparently they forgot to caulk it.

You can see the photos here. Or you might be looking for something more like these hanging baskets from Ikea.