rideandfly

Just my opinion, Agree, too much concentrated stress on the doubled cross-member welds. Load needs to be distributed to additional cross-members (one way to do it), especially for those doing overland type camping. We probably have the lightest LE2 with ready to camp weights of 4900 to 4950 pounds running under 50psi in the tires with 99% of travel on paved roads and empty water tanks. We still had a weld to crack. I am not a mechanical engineer, just lots of experience in industrial machine rebuild and manufacture, before retirement.

Just returned from a road trip looking at Patriot's 2020 LE2 Ollie Hull #634 with the later frame compared to our original frame on our 2015 LE2. There are some differences on the newer Ollie compared to our 2015 Ollie #75, but the newer Ollie still has the doubled channel cross-member under the hot water heater area. The newer Ollie has more angle replacing some of the cross-member channel when compared to the older Ollie, but my older Ollie has angle cross-members over the axles, too. You can also see on the 2020 frame the inverted suspension saddle (my description) over the main frame giving a jack location that the older 2015 frame does not have extended as far for a jack location. Aluminum channel cross-members on both Ollie's appear to be the same size. 2020 LE2 Ollie's cross-member doubled and stitch welded under the water heater: 2015 LE2 Ollie's cross-member doubled and stitch welded under the hot water heater, you can also see the cracked weld in some of these photos, plan to have the crack repaired tomorrow: If you look at the doubled channel cross-member in this photo of the older LE2 Looks like a downward bow, probably found on most Ollies, I did not look at this on the 2020 Ollie. Would probably need a straight edge to measure the downward bow. Downward load on the doubled cross-member that is cracking welds.

That would give us all a chance to go out to eat, too? 🙂

David, Does your Ollie have any doubled cross-members? Thanks, Bill

The added piece of channel is only stitch welded (doubled) onto the channel welded to the mainframe on our Ollie. The doubled piece could be removed by cutting the stitch welds off with a 4" grinder. One side is stitch welded on the bottom and the other side is stitch welded on the top to the other channel. To give more strength additional cross-members could be welded on (added) in different areas, if needed. This has me wondering why the original cross-member was doubled when all others were not. I have not inspected the campers with new stye frame like Patriot's, but guessing none of their cross-members were doubled. Hope someone will let us know that has the new style frame without telescoping hitch tube.

Thanks, Another friend here thinks it may be some bad welds. Will see how the repair goes Friday.

It might take longer than normal for an answer if your question has to go to engineering.

The weld cracked on our Ollie where the cross member was doubled under the hot water heater. Scheduled to have the crack welded on Friday. Question, would doubling the crossmember material create more stress on the welds due to less flexibility?

jd1923's following thread about a crossbeam weld break posted earlier in this thread, just wanted to re-post so it is not missed, jd1923 hope you don't mind:

Will be interesting to see Oliver's solution. Started looking at this yesterday, there is 11" between the failed weld crossbeam and next crossbeam to the front on #75 LE2. The crossbeam behind the crossbeam with failed weld is over 13". The same size and length of aluminum 6061 channel could be welded equal distance between the crossbeam with failed weld and crossbeam to the front to reinforce this area with rubber sandwiched between the channel and fiberglass like the original channel. Probably not needed, but the same could be done between the next beam to the rear, too. Just a thought.

David, Thanks, We only use de-humidfiers when we're camping and don't have power in the hangar to run them while Ollie is stored. Can't give you a good reading on how long it takes to fill the tanks while camping because I always dump them when they are less than full. The 5 day number sounds right! Bill

We store Ollie in an airplane hangar with one side open in the hangar (no power in the hangar) leaving the bath and Maxxair vents open (not running), unless wet weather is moving in and then close the vents temporarily until the weather has passed. We also keep the refrigerator and bathroom doors open with open boxes of baking soda in the refrigerator and camper. We like the Pro Breeze de-humidifier, too. While camping sometimes condensation can be found between the hulls on the inside of the outer hull around the rear and Oliver sign area. Decided to use two Pro-Breeze de-humidifiers while camping placing one in the overhead compartment next to the Oliver sign and one on the kitchen counter. Just made this modification last week, decided to install two vents on the bulkheads next to the rear Oliver sign to allow a little more air flow between the hulls attempting to reduce condensation. Will see how it works.

Fine article. Coincidentally thinking about why Ollie is so pleasant to camp in this morning while getting ready to tow Ollie. The Oliver brothers had a great vision on what a camper should be!

Replaced the aluminum tape on our Ollie's three/way fridge a few years ago using the existing curved aluminum plate as seen in Topgun's photo.

Steve, Nice Shot!

Talked to the race car shop this morning and he can weld Ollie's frame later this week or next week. He wanted to know what kind of aluminum Ollie's frame was made out of, so I contacted Oliver service department this morning and Mike replied quickly this morning letting me know it's made out of 6061 aluminum. The race car shop was very happy to hear Ollie's frame is made out of a very good quality of aluminum. 🙂

I'm going to drop by the race car shop this week. Plan to have it welded. As mentioned previously, everyone Ollie owner should inspect their frames. Mine should not be a difficult repair, just need to find a good aluminum welder. If you are close to TN, Oliver is still doing fiberglass and aluminum repairs. 🙂

Found a cracked weld under the water heater yesterday, believe it's same area as Routlaw's weld break. There's a local race car shop that's done work for me in the past that has a very talented welder. Will give them a call. Our Ollie is 2015 #75 LE2. Running 45PSI in the tires, dropping tires to 40psi this year, and always travel with empty fresh, black and grey water tanks. 99% of travel is on pavement. First owner never ran more than 50psi in the tires and we are second owners.

Will do! 🙂

Is this the Loctite product you're using? https://www.loctiteproducts.com/en/products/build/sealants/loctite_pl_marinefastcureadhesivesealant.html Yes, it is. Thanks!

Is this the Loctite product you're using? https://www.loctiteproducts.com/en/products/build/sealants/loctite_pl_marinefastcureadhesivesealant.html Going to try ASI 0240 for caulk removal, too. I'm like some others here and have much to be desired in the artistic application skills. But with Ollie, learning daily. 🙂 Like always, appreciate the knowledge folks share here. Really appreciated the information shared on fiberglass surface preparation for belly band installation, too.

When I installed suspension wet pins and bronze bushings on another forum member's Legacy Elite a few years ago, found several welds cracked, not broken. He took his Ollie back to Oliver and they welded the cracked areas without any additional problems to my knowledge.

Thanks for the photos!

routlaw, Sent you a private message with my email address. I cannot add photos to the forum by uploading at this time. If you still can't post photos, you can email your photos to me, will post them using Smugmug. I also want to see your frame photos. Test photo with Smugmug:

Good insight.