rideandfly

Like always, appreciate the information!

The Timbren system is low cost and easy to install, but it's sometimes tricky to have air gap between the Timbren rubber blocks when Ollie is not connected (see my previous post on first page). If the bed is loaded when camping and Ollie is disconnected, it's still possible for the Timbren blocks to be contacting the rear differential giving a firm ride if the load in the bed is heavy. In our case, without Ollie connected with our normal camping gear load in the bed, there is air gap between the Timbren blocks and rear differential giving a nice ride. With rear differential airbag systems, you can let air out of the bags with Ollie disconnected to give a smoother ride. As mentioned above a WDH needs to be used with a TV/Ollie rig when required by the TV operators manual and stated on some trailer hitches. We keep a close eye on our actual ready to camp TV & Ollie weighs using CAT scales to comply with TV/Ollie requirements.

Robert, When I used Firestone rear differential air bags at about 30PSI, did not have much TV rear end sag towing Ollie. It was a firm ride while towing, but when not towing decreasing the air pressure to about 5PSI gave a nice unloaded ride. I have not used the RAS system. I'm currently using the Timbren rear differential system towing Ollie, but believe many folks here have had good results using rear differential air bags because of flexibility given by adjusting air bag pressure when towing or empty. Some folks use onboard air compressor for the rear differential airbag systems, but I mounted the rear license plate with left & right airbag valves and found that air pressure could be easily increased with a simple bicycle air pump.

Agree, only axles with SC 50" on the list so far are 2014, 2015, & 2016 LE2s.

What's interesting on the above list 2010 #45 LE2 has 50.5" axles.

Geoff, Appreciate the information!!!!!! I'm going to get the Starlink Mini Router 12V power supply, too. Thanks, Bill

Geoff, Thanks for the info, look forward to your Mini Router camping report. We were just camping where they did not have shore power. Currently use an Anker battery to power the Mini dish when away from shore power and recharge Anker during the day with a USB to USB-C cable from our 12V system since our Ollie does not have an inverter and factory installed solar, we use a solar suitcase. Since the Mini Router has USB-C like the Anker battery, I could power it with the cable I use to recharge the Anker battery when away from shore power, if I'm understanding this correctly. Thanks, Bill

David, we agree!!!!!!! Believe many areas on the BRP will reopen by the end of the year! 🙂

Doughton Park NC on the Blue Ridge Parkway. We head to the BRP to beat the heat this time of year. After the hurricane last year, many areas are still closed, but repairs are being made and areas slowing reopening. No electricity or water at the campsites but Ollie handles it fine with a portable solar panel. Directions to Doughton Park, take Rt. 21 to the BRP to the Park. Doughton Park Picnic Area: Air Bellows Overlook:

Here's a couple older Rally photos: This was an Oliver Rally in TN during 2016 or 2017, not too far from the Oliver factory. This was the first Rally at Lake Guntersville SP:

Here's some stock Tundra HP/Torque differences. 2006 Tundra 4.7L: 271HP@ 5400RPM 313 FT/LBS @ 3400RPM 2020 Tundra 5.7L: 381HP @ 5600RPM 401FT/LBs torque @ 3600RPM 2022 Tundra 3.4L twin turbo/non-hybrid: 389HP @ 5200 RPM 479 FT/LBS @ 2400 RPM I have not towed with the 4.7L engine, it has lower HP/Torque compared to the two later Tundra engines. The 5.7L and 3.4L Tundra towed Ollie fine for us. https://www.autopadre.com/horsepower-and-torque/toyota-tundra

Happy Flag Day!!!!!!!!!

Nice. In a previous camper we had windows that could be opened while it was raining, they were very nice, but I like the glass windows Oliver is using even better. Believe some of our windows in #75 might be a different size than late model Ollies, but really like the looks of the new windows.

Mike, Beautiful installation. I have been wondering what I would do if our 10 year old Dometic three way quits, your installation is a good one. Went back looking over the information shared by Try2Relax, MountainOliver, Geronimo John, Ty J and rideadeuce, really appreciate their post, too. Thanks for posting!

What a neat looking campsite! Hope everyone has a great time!!!!!!!!!

My MaxxFan came from Amazon without issues. Question, on your disc brake installation, was the electric over hydraulic actuator from Dexter? I just found your reply to John Davies with information on disc brake parts needed for upgrade during 2015:

Yep, I have had a good experiences dealing with them in the past, but that's what I like about this forum, we are hearing everyone's experience so folks here can make a well informed decision on who to buy from.

I have had the same experience with Etrailer that jd1923 has had, received good service in the past, but I hate to see the troubles Galway Girl is having, too.

Dan, We try not to camp where AC is needed in the summer. Head to higher elevations where AC is not needed. Speaking of our home and humidity, I sealed our home's crawlspace and started running a de-humidifier all summer where the HVAC Ducting supplies the home's cooling. Keeps the crawl space around 45 to 50% humidity. When the crawl-space was not sealed and vents open, sometimes HVAC ducting would drip with condensation in the summer.

There has been several other post about humidity issues when camping with Olivers. Normally when we camp in temperatures cold enough to freeze the basement plumbing when using a portable heater, it's only for a couple of days and we don't even de-winterize Ollie making use of the campground's showers. When camping in the South East in the winter, sometimes we have humid weather.

In the winter when heating with a portable heater we use 99% of the time, we find condensation between the hull in the rear section (in our experience), if a de-humidifier is not used. We use a small de-humidifier in the rear upper storage "Oliver Sign" area and another one on the kitchen stove top area to resolve this. Checked other areas between the hulls and did not find condensation present.

Glad it did not turn into something worse!!! Etrailer folks are good to deal with. I plan to continue packing our Ollie’s bearings, replacing seals and inspecting brakes/hardware. A few here have the disc brake upgrade that is very nice. Happy to hear you were able to get everything fixed without breaking down on the side of the road and having to deal with that.

Agree, We like the low RPM torque the Toyota 3.4L twin turbo produces for towing.

"XPLOR" looking beautiful!

The Anderson clamp bolts are Grade 5 5/8X11 UNC (coarse) threads. This is from Anderson's installation guide https://drive.google.com/file/d/1KvY0iopu7rUstsA_7XouHvCkT3Abs192/view "4-5. Make sure all brackets are clamped tightly — we recommend at least 75 ft-lbs of torque. If needed, you may torque the brackets up to 90 ft-lbs, as long as it does NOT compress the frame. IMPORTANT: Some lighter frames may begin to compress if torqued too high, so be aware of your frame’s capabilities." To be sure, get a torque recommendation from Oliver on how tight they want to see the clamp bolts on the aluminum frame. Anderson currently supplies a saddle that rests on the top and bottom of the frame for the clamp top and bottom bolts to help secure the frame clamp. I cannot find this part on their website, but they said they will send me a parts diagram showing the part, will pass it along to everyone here when received. Just received this from Anderson: