Steph and Dud B

Yes, there are check valves at the water inlets as shown, but there is also a check valve at (or inside) the pump. If the pump didn't have a check valve, pressurized water in the lines while connected to a city water supply would backflow through the pump and fill the water tank. This is actually how most people find out their pump check valve has failed: the water tank keeps filling up on its own. Also, when using your pump, without an integral pump check valve, your system would lose all pressure as soon as the pump shut off, because the water would push back into the tank.

I've been thinking about this. There's a check valve in, or behind, the water pump that would prevent water from the lines from draining back into the tank. It's there to prevent city water from backfilling the tank when you're hooked up.

That's what's we do. The first vent under the curb bed is closed.

I read a post on one of the RV forums that claimed they got pulled over by a trooper while draining their fresh water on the road. The trooper said police had received calls that a trailer was dumping something on the highway. The OP said he was ticketed for "failure to secure a load." (BTW, you don't need to open your faucets to drain the fresh tank, but it does help if you want to drain all the lines, too.)

Our delivery was on time. We spent the first night boondocking up at Camp Oliver and tested all systems in that mode there. Then we moved to David Crockett State Park and spent the second night hooked up to water and electricity to test those systems. Found an issue with the A/C and service took us in first thing the next morning to address it.

We're very risk-averse, so I would wait until we reached Southern climes before dewinterizing and use bottled water and campground bathrooms/showers until then.

We always travel with at least 10 gallons of water in our fresh tank, for emergency bathroom stops, etc. In the past, when we got home, I'd open the fresh water drain while the trailer was in the yard to empty the tank. Now that the trailer's in the garage, with no floor drain, I wanted a way to drain the tank without it dumping on the garage floor. I bought a low profile bucket and some garden hose bulkhead fittings on Amazon, drilled a hole in the bucket, and installed the fitting. Now I can slide the bucket under the fresh water drain, attach a hose, and let the water run out the garage door. Parts: 3 Gallon Super Bucket with Ergonomic Handle https://a.co/d/fOahpl0 SNUTUYA PVC Garden Hose Bulkhead Fitting With Plug, 1/2" Female NPT, 3/4" Male GHT (garden Hose Thread), For Rain Barrels, Aquariums, Sinks，2 Pack https://a.co/d/3lRxTCu

Our 2022 Oliver is our 4th trailer: 1 travel trailer and 2 fifth wheels prior. Our main goal in moving to a molded fiberglass trailer was to reduce potential roof leaks and the damage they can cause. Ease of towing was a secondary reason. When it comes to the molded fiberglass trailers, Oliver has no equal, as you'll find when you see one in person. (Note that Olivers are heavier than their molded fiberglass competitors, requiring a more substantial tow vehicle.) What we've found to be the Oliver's strengths are: construction materials, size/maneuverability/ease of towing, the lithium/solar package (love this), and sound proofing (the double hulls and dual pane windows can really block outside noise at night). Service has also been better than most RV manufacturers. Weaknesses have been various errors made during its construction and the inherent limitations of its size (limited storage, smaller tanks, etc.), but we understood that we were downsizing. To be 100% honest, our Oliver has not been as trouble-free as we had hoped, perhaps because it was a COVID-era unit. I've detailed our problems in this forum so I won't repeat them now. Fortunately, Oliver service has largely lived up to their reputation in addressing our issues quickly and we're starting to enjoy our trailer more now. Also, to be honest, we've heard far worse from many people who bought non-Oliver RVs in the same time period, so I suppose it was still a net-positive for us. There's only one other manufacturer I would consider today, and they're brand-new, so it remains to be seen if their reality can match their promise. How do you plan to transport your sea kayaks while towing the trailer? Rooftop on the truck?

They could dip their toes in some of the smaller (less expensive) shows. There's 3 in the Northeast in the next couple of months: Hartford, Agawam, and Foxwoods Casino. No doubt many more like that throughout the eastern US. The nice thing about a show is that it could expose people to Olivers that would never even have considered (or maybe even heard of) fiberglass trailers before. They'd go in looking for a conventional camper and say, "hey what's that white one?" That's how we bought our unusual Glendale Titanium fifth wheel: saw one at a show and was amazed by the unique over-cab bedroom. Prior to stumbling on Oliver via an RV news article, we had seen the occasional Scamp or Casita but assumed they were cheap junk, never having seen one up close. An RV show gives curious buyers a chance to investigate products they normally wouldn't consider. If Oliver wants to expand their customer demographic, I'd think RV shows would be an effective way to do that.

Now that they're starting a dealer network, why isn't Oliver displaying at (not "near") any of the RV shows? We picked our last 2 fifth wheel models at shows in the Northeast. (Didn't buy them there, but used our research from the shows to make a decision that we acted on later.) I've been dubious about the dealer network, but I can see Oliver really standing out at an RV show, where people can look at lots of different trailers and see how Oliver compares directly.

Lots of eastern campgrounds close for the winter, including March, so check in advance. As @John Dorrer suggested, heading south will increase your choices. (So envious of those who live in the South and West, with all your camping opportunities.)

We bought a couple of these but haven't installed them yet. Camco Camper/RV Drink Holder | Features Adjustable Space-Saving Design & Holds Almost Any Size Mug, Cup, Bottle or Can | Extra Cup Holder for Cars, Trucks, RVs, Vans, Boats, and More | White (44040) https://a.co/d/ayMR3mZ

Those things are great. Have used them to fix brake wiring in the past.

Do you have a source for that shelf? Looks perfect.

Us, too.

...a fire on the stove would be put out quickly. If you're awake. And... the fire extinguisher is on the other end of the trailer, with the fire between it and you. Don't rule out an electrical fire starting under the dinette and spreading to the cushions, window shades, etc. Especially if you're asleep. And the smoke will reduce visibility to near zero. 40-year firefighter here. We've burned a few RVs in drills. Shocking how fast they go up and how quick the interior can become unsurvivable. That window could be more important than you think.

Just saw a DEALER walkthrough of a 2024 on YouTube. He did a nice job. I noticed Oliver added reflective tape to the bike rack adapter, similar to the reflectors we added to ours. That's good because it sticks out behind the main bumper and blocks the main body reflectors.

That appears to be an escape window with no ventilation function. We had 2 like @SeaDawg pictured on our fifth wheel. The large handle on those allowed you to prop the window open for ventilation. Worked nice in the rain. They also had pop out screens with red handles for egress. The new window Jason posted does not appear intended to be used in the open position, except to escape. I don't see the handle that would keep it open.

Is it the arms or the lifting gearbox? There was a batch of MaxxFans about the age of your trailer that had weak lid-lifting gearboxes that would fail. MaxxAir sells an improved replacement part (I found them on etrailer.com). They're inexpensive and easy to replace. I replaced all 3 on our fifth wheel. They call it an operator mechanism. Here's a video on the problem and repair: https://youtu.be/bcnbfPuu-bM?si=pdYe1hsefngecYHW

Here's a really good video, made by a firefighter, that tests and goes over proper use of multiple fire extinguisher types - including the Element: I don't think the Element is a replacement for a regular fire extinguisher, but it's another tool in your arsenal - like the First Alert spray we have under our bed rails - that might be helpful because of its proximity when you need it.

Actually, most of them do that. Carbon dioxide and foam extinguishers also remove the oxygen. Water extinguishers remove the heat. The ABC dry chem extinguishers work by interfering with the chemical reaction itself (the fourth side of the now-called "fire tetrahedron").

I have the EGO 2405 24" 2-stage snowblower with four 7.5Ah batteries (a pair to run and a pair on the charger). We have an odd-shaped gravel drive (lots of little notches and spurs) that I'd estimate at about 1700 square feet with a slight incline. I added ARMORskids to the EGO because of the gravel, so it leaves about a 1/2" of snow behind. First snowfall was 5" of heavy wet snow with temps right around freezing. I cleared the entire drive in about 1 hour on the first pair of batteries. The 10% charge light was flashing when I finished. I did not suck up any gravel or break any windows 😅. The only thing I didn't do was the plow pile at the end of the driveway. I'm sure the EGO could have done it, but a neighbor with a plow truck got that for me. The snow blower is quiet and there's no gas engine to dither with, which I like. It's pretty light, which is both a plus and minus. Makes it easy enough to maneuver around, but it did have trouble biting into hard pack snow because it wants to ride up on top of it. It throws snow really well. I kept the auger speed low to save battery and it still threw as far as I needed. You can run it one-handed (left) and use your right hand to adjust the chute on the fly. They make a fancier one with heated handles and power turning, which I'm envious of, but it was $350 more and I figured the heaters would eat more battery. So far, one storm in, I'm pleased with it. UPDATE: 2ND PASS: Another 2" of snow fell. This time I used a more efficient pattern and moved a little faster. Finished the whole drive in 30 minutes, using 3/5 of the battery power. Nice machine.

I’ve heard tank sounds, as well, more of a ‘high-pitched whistling’ rather than ‘ringing’ That's the high/low pressure regular diaphragm. They can do that, especially in cold weather with high propane flow. Our last fifth wheel did it and the regulator was mounted right under the bedroom. 🤨

First, see if testing reveals a leak in the system. There is no "partially full" indication on the regulator. The indicator just tells you if an auto switchover has occurred. It should be either green or red, but not both. What position is the little arrow lever on the regulator in? It should be pointed at one of the tanks, not in the center. Our lever got accidentally knocked into the center position once, resulting in a "1/2 full" indication when one tank was actually full. For automatic operation with one tank full and the other partial, point the lever at the partial tank. When it empties, it should auto switch to the full tank. Switch the lever, fill the empty tank, and proceed normally.