Steph and Dud B

Unfortunately, this is not one isolated problem with our unit. We've had 21 documented problems with our 3 year old trailer, some minor/cosmetic, others very serious/safety issues. (The toilet broke off on the way home from our delivery. The 120V wiring for our fridge melted because of an improperly installed Wago connector.) I've repaired the vast majority myself, but we've still had to make the 1,000 mile drive to Hohenwald 3 times for warranty work beyond my scope, plus a few repairs by our local RV tech at our expense. We've had good good luck with Oliver support as far as sending us parts and supporting us with local service but one of our trips to the OTT service center was well below par. An example: I asked them to pull the left front wheel because on the way south I could hear something loose in there. They told me they pulled the wheel and it was fine. When we got home we found a brake plate backer nut rattling around inside that drum. And OTT charged us for that "inspection"! I'm not bashing the entire line, and apparently most people have had really good luck with their Olivers, but this trailer has been a constant battle with failures large and small and is, quantifiably, the most problem-plagued RV we've had. I suppose at some point we'll have fixed all the flaws it came with and go back to just normal wear and tear items. That will be nice.

Oliver will repair under warranty. That means finding a local shop or going back to the factory. Since we're already winterized and stored, I imagine we'll go back to Tennessee again in the spring. I have to call it now: This is the most problem-plagued RV we've owned in 26 years of camping. Very disappointed in Oliver.

Ticket already submitted.

Found this crack by the water heater while waxing the trailer today. Starts under the water heater lip and stops at the outward curve of the fiberglass. Thoughts?

Ok, that sounds better. There is significantly more resistance when I pump antifreeze through the city water port. It goes, but not real easy.

This is an odd one. @Dexter Adams Have you had any problems with city water pressure while camping this season?

In 2018 we toured the Forest River Rockwood plant making fifth wheels. Same thing, rushing through the entire process. Not surprising because it's piecework. The workers were paid by the number of units they completed each day. They did actually have a QC station that looked for things that were missing or obviously wrong, but there was no major systems testing. Amazingly, our 2017 Rockwood fifth wheel was actually pretty good. We had fewer problems with it then we've had with our 2022 Oliver. Maybe because it was pre-COVID. 🤷‍♂️

See what the OP said: There are 2 things that stop propane from exiting the tank, first the manual valve, then the pin actuated gate. If the manual valve is open - or faulty - connecting the tank to a propane line will allow gas to flow. That's what appears to be happening here.

As others have said, refer to the battery mfg manual. The manual for our Lithionics batteries (also 640Ah) says to leave them on and the trailer plugged in during sub-freezing weather. Ours have internal heaters.

I'd be suspicious of the RV shops that did your prior lube service, too. Unless the zerks just fell out after the last service, this is something they would have noticed if they did the work and should have told you about (or offered to fix).

The new rule isn't retroactive, it only applies to new RVs.

Speaking of damaged pedestal wiring, we saw this smashed meter on a pedestal in a COE campground in Arkansas.

If the ground in the pedestal was energized wouldn't the metal pedestal body itself also be energized? That would be super dangerous.

The problem they cite for the regulation is a "hot skin" condition where voltage leaks into the trailer frame (and skin on metal skinned trailers) via a short or bad appliance and can't reach ground because of an open ground connection to the pedestal. In this situation a person can complete the circuit to ground by touching a metal part of the trailer and potentially get electrocuted. I suppose, in that scenario, there would be voltage on the trailer ground wire as well as the other grounded metal parts. Still, any device that detects an open ground and cuts power should prevent that scenario. (BTW, I did get a little jolt from one of our trailers once because of a poor ground connection.)

At home I use a small platform. In the field I turn off the fridge and lower the nose of the trailer way down to make it easier.

Yes, exactly.

Just to be sure: clockwise to close.

How many cupholders does it have?

If opening the bathroom drain valve increased the flow of water, you probably have a leak in the bathroom drain system.

Amish restaurant and buffet, Das Dutchmen Essenhaus to chow down: https://maps.app.goo.gl/MYq2854UTu2LjPLm8 , The Bag Factory for shopping: https://maps.app.goo.gl/aaMDybSNji4EHPav6 , Venturi for authentic Neopolitan pizza: https://maps.app.goo.gl/t5WiaMadvzyFcQnn7 , Yoder's Meat and Cheese: https://maps.app.goo.gl/du6vPspozdgsdSat8

Yes, I prefer the propane furnace in below freezing temps because it adds heat between the shells while maintaining the double hull insulation in the upper half. Once you open all those cabinets and hatches you pretty much negate the whole double hull concept.

We have the same issue on hull #1150. Same here, something I've been meaning to look into. Eventually.

You should be fine.

We've used the TST system for many (10+) years. We replaced the stock rubber valve stems with steel ones first. (These fit our 2022, YMMV: https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/c/xtra-seal/tire---wheel/tire-valves---caps/tire-valves---cores/aede909cf322/xtra-seal-bolt-in-valve-fits-rim-hole-diameter-5-8-inch/xts0/17428 ) Definitely get a TPMS, regardless of brand.

Greetings to the Oliver LE1 sharing Hammonasset State Park with us. That's the second LE1 we've seen here this year.