Steph and Dud B

That doesn't sound right to me, at least with a Fairview. We have the same regulator on our fifth wheel. Point the lever at the tank you want to use first. When it's empty, the red indicator will show and the regulator will switch to the other tank. Before disconnecting the empty tank, turn the lever to the other tank, which now becomes the primary. There is no center position for the lever. The pdf in Mossey's post says the same thing.

I contacted OTT and was told to not cover the openings. It will void the warranty. From https://askthervengineer.com/the-essential-guide-to-your-rv-absorption-refrigerator-and-why-it-doesnt-work-in-the-mountains/: "All that heat from your fridge’s interior has to go somewhere! And when burning propane, the fridge releases toxic exhaust gases, too. You don’t want either of those things inside your RV. That’s why your RV is installed inside a sealed compartment and the hot gases are exhausted through your fridge vents." I can't understand why OTT says that gap should remain. Is there another seal behind that gap?

There is no reason air needs to pass around the fridge into the cabin. In fact, it shouldn't. That's a propane burning appliance. The rear of the fridge should be exposed to the exterior vents but the front of the fridge should be isolated from that service area. Take photos and start a service ticket.

Coachmen Class B production will have Truma A/Cs on the roofs of new units in 60 - 90 days. They've been quietly testing them for the last year. Hmmm....

In our first camper we drank the water from the fresh tank for years with no problems. Then, while doing some maintenance, I saw the inside of the clear tank overflow tube and the green stuff in there. Even though it never caused us any harm, it put the idea of what could be lurking in some other pipes in my head and we've been drinking bottled water ever since. The fresh tank is for washing and flushing now.

I was thinking about driving the rear wheels of my truck onto some leveler blocks. Not as easy as using the jack, but not as damaging if you forget about them before you leave.

Consumer Reports is saying some of the new GM gas engines are having significant reliability problems. New-crate-engine level failures.

One of the little things I've wondered about Olivers. All our previous RVs had an indoor switch for the AC side of the hot water heater, right next to the switch for gas. Very handy. In campgrounds with low voltage we would often leave the AC heating element off during the day, when voltage was lowest, and just kick it on while we were showering (to speed the heater's recovery time). Now wondering: Is the electric hot water element wired to the inverter? Wouldn't want that.

Hi, could you folks expand on this a bit? Any thoughts on what others should check at their deliveries would be very helpful. Thanks!

He couldn't smell it? Humans become "nose-blind" to the stink additive in propane after a while. If it's a slow leak that builds over time you might not smell it.

A full 30 lb propane tank will last us most of a season in our 32' fifth wheel running hot water, furnace, and stove as needed. Even if you have 20 lb tanks, something doesn't sound right. I'd look for a propane leak somewhere.

The Camping for Dummies link from the OP doesn't work.

Congratulations!!

Common problem. The insulation breaks there due to flexing. The plug is very easy to replace with just wire cutters and a screwdriver. Search Amazon for "7 pin trailer plug." They are about $5. If you can't do that right away, I'd cover it with electrical tape to seal it, then reinforce it with a zip tie around the cable connected to the plug "ears" with a couple more zip ties to take some of the strain off the damaged section.

No need for a portable pump to fill the Ollie water tank. They can draw water from containers directly into the fresh water tank. One of my favorite features.

Yes, we mentioned it to Jason when we paid our deposit and I mentioned it to him again yesterday.

No reason given. Seems consistent with previous posters saying December-January-February dates had shifted about a week. We'll be OK as long as the delivery stays outside of the school year. Once school hits we'd have an issue. 😬

Our July delivery date has slipped 9 days to early August.

We don't have an Ollie yet but 2 hours of charging from the landline (120v outlet) at our house wouldn't be enough to keep up with the parasitic draws in our fifth wheel. It's connected to power overnight for 5 hours every day in the winter. Probably overkill, but I prefer that to dead or frozen batteries.

Perhaps report this to the NHTSA as well. They can do an investigation and, if it's a repeating occurrence and a safety hazard, initiate a recall. https://www.nhtsa.gov/report-a-safety-problem#index

Over a foot this morning. 😕 Someday, we'll be able to flee this weather!

The batteries are connected in series so the voltmeter agrees with your trailer battery monitor. 6.1v X 2 = 12.2v. I doubt you damaged anything by disconnecting the batteries as long as you kept the + and - wires away from each other and the + away from any metal trailer structure (even without the batteries there will still be voltage coming from the solar panels).

Also remember as you shop: the "tow rating" is calculated based on an empty vehicle with only a driver. If you have a 150 pound passenger and 50 pounds of camping gear in your car you just reduced your tow rating by 200 pounds.

Pizazz: The partition at the top of the image is a closet, not a shower. The wet bath was one of my concerns, too, but after reading up about them we think it's worth the trade-off for more interior space.

With 2 million new RVs on the road since the pandemic started, and the industry planning to sell another 600,000 this year, we expect to do more state park/forest boondocking than we used to. We just booked Memorial Day weekend sites in our usual full-hookup campground. They want $95/night this year! The state park is still $20 for residents.