topgun2

The process is actually not all that tough and now I'm sure that I could do it again fairly quickly - about an hour. My "problem" was that the one side of the repair was done differently than the drawing showed and I didn't recognize that until I finally decided to replace the string that was not broken. Of course part of what made me so determined was the fact that for the sake of a stupid string I was going to have to fork over around $1,000 for a full set of "white" frames! Bill

And - here we are on April 16th, 2024! The good news is that I've now (finally) got the shade back together (for about the 10th time) and the BIG exception as compared to the other 9 times is that it now works! I never thought that I'd have to be concerned with "string theory". But in the case of these shades there are a couple of VERY important things that one should pay attention to. The reason why it took me 10 times to get it correct was that my intent was to only replace the string that broke. I did this according to the diagram(s) that I found in this thread. I paid careful attention to the route that this string took in those diagrams, but, in each instance once the shade was put back together and the spring tension set, I would quickly see that the string would not stay taught on one side or the other. Long story - but this problem got me to thinking - where does the string go when I raise the blind? About the same time I retrieved another shade from the Ollie hoping that it might give me some idea of were I was going wrong. In looking at the shade I knew was functioning properly and I (finally) noticed that the string routing on the side that was not broken was different than either the night shade and/or the properly functioning shade from the Ollie. This is when I (finally) realized exactly how these shade manage the string - one side takes up the string while the other side basically pushes it out and the spring simply helps smooth out that process. In the diagram from the factory - if you follow it closely - it can been seen that the string goes from the spring, through the corner frame piece, through the lower pull bar (the bar that is used for raise and lower the night shade) and into the upper pull bar (the bar used to raise and lower the screen). But instead of going through this bar, the string takes a turn and travels through the bar under the bottom part of the shade where the shade is held by this bar. I pulled the string down this bar until it came to a grommet that passes through the bottom of the screen, and is then threaded upwards through the holes in the screen fabric. Once this is complete the threading continues through the top of the screen and into the area just above the point where the screen is held in a track at the bottom of the frame itself. Once again, the string then turns and travels back to the original side of the shade where there is a second grommet. Passing through that grommet and then the holes in the screen fabric until coming back to the bar that is used to raise and lower the screen. Back into the narrow track on the bottom side of this bar that holds the screen it is just a short distance (a couple of inches) back to the end piece of the bar where the string feeds over a small metal "roller" and then takes a 90 degree turn back towards the area where the original spring is located. Again, paying close attention to the drawing and to the opposite side to make sure that the routing was the same on both sides I finally got back to the spring. In tying the string back to the spring I had to use a pick in order to get some stretch in the spring. It took more stretch than I would have thought but I needed to take up all of the slack in the string plus make the string taught such that the screen would not "flap" in the breeze. The whole "issue" was that the original stringing from the shade factory was NOT the same as the stringing shown in the drawing above. Instead of passing the string through that second bar (the one used to raise and lower the screen) and then threaded UP through the screening, the string continued up into the top frame piece and down into the screening (i.e. the reverse direction). While I don't think that there is anything "wrong" with this, the problem is that BOTH sides must be strung in the same manner (i.e. in the same direction). Of course I could have avoided a bunch of work and worry if I had simply paid attention to how the broken string side was routed in the first place. But, of course, I simply pulled out the broken string - mistake! Hopefully the above makes some sense and you avoid the issues I encountered. I'd be happy to do a "show & tell" at the Rally for anyone that really wants to see what I'm talking about - just let me know and we'll work on a time and place to do a one on one. Bill

Its the "snap" of the rubber gloves that always gave/gives me the "willies". Of course there is always that sly smile on Steve's face when he says things like that!🥺

I'd bet that the guys from CGI will be at the Rally again this year. I'd also bet that they would be more than happy to bring their gloss meter to your Ollie and give you some gloss readings. Bill

Not a bunch of those trucks around that are getting this kind of love either. Nice job on those "blacked out" rear lights!😁 Bill

As per Townesw post above. Bill

Earnings before interest, taxes, and amortization (EBITA) is a measure of company profitability used by investors. It is helpful for comparing one company to another in the same line of business.

Take a look at the last pic in THIS post. It shows the vent stack and the top of the valve I mentioned in my first post in this thread. Remember - light taps with a hammer is all that should be needed to re-seat that valve. Bill

Absolutely! There is simply not much that you can do with that kind of cloud cover. The light simply refracts off the moisture particles in the hazy plus any "dust" in the air gets "stuck" to those too and that is why (even with the naked eye) things simply are not as "sharp" as they are on a day with fewer clouds/moisture. Next time - demand humidity of below 15% and no wind and no people kicking up dust! Bill p.s. 45 years of engineering has not much to do with it. My father was a pipe fitter before becoming a professional photographer. I swear that there is something that comes through the lens of a camera that makes some people simply "mad" (shutter madness?) about the entire process. Spending hours/days waiting for that "correct" sun angle, that critter to poke his/her head out of the hole, that butterfly to land on THAT flower, the bride to get THAT look on her face, the fighter jets doing vertical takeoffs at the end of the runway and NOT getting that afterburner flame touching the ground, etc., etc..😊

Steve - I don't believe that there was much wrong with your equipment nor your abilities as a photographer. Perhaps you could have improved your results (marginally) with a different set of lens filters, but, with the amount of moisture in the atmosphere I'd guess that you were fairly doomed from the start. Regardless - nice work and thanks for letting us share in your event. Bill

AS GJ says above - you should not be smelling anything. Read the directions on the grey tank cleaner that you bought and be thinking along the lines of really cleaning that tank. Also, when you have a few minutes to get under the galley sink, re-read my first post in this thread since it appears highly likely that you have this problem. Note that this is probably not an ongoing problem. I've only had to "un-stick" that valve once in going on nine years of Ollie travel. Bill

Steve - I'm guessing that the attached really doesn't help you very much, but its all I have. Hope it helps some. Bill

We are just past "peak" here is Western North Carolina with around 85% covered - only a small fingernail left showing. While it is partly cloudy there are enough breaks that a fairly good view can be obtained. Unfortunately though it didn't get dark enough for the birds to stop singing. Hopefully all of you in the "total" path get a chance to see the diamond ring! Bill

Well - there is a "one way air valve" under the galley sink that prevents grey tank odors from coming back up through the sink drain. Every now and then this valve can become "stuck" and what you will get is almost exactly what you describe. The "fix" is to get under the sink and give that valve a couple of light to medium taps with a hammer or something similar. Don't overdo the taps. If that doesn't do it - get yourself some grey tank deodorant and follow the instructions. Good luck! Bill p.s. this stuff can be found in the RV section (usually near sporting goods) in many WalMarts, or at most RV places and (of course) Amazon like THIS STUFF

Which reminds me of a "trick" I learned a number of years ago for a fridge in storage. After all contents of the fridge are removed and the fridge cleaned and dried, place some crumpled newspaper in both the fridge and freezer - it only takes 6 or 7 sheets. AS Patriot says - leave the fridge door cracked. When its time to get the Ollie out of storage, simply remove the newspaper, turn on the fridge and stock it. There will not be that funky fridge smell at all. Bill

Yes - Foy and Mirna have hosted mini-rallies in Florida that have had more than 8 Ollies in attendance. 😎 Bill

In looking back at Jason E's post that basically started what we know about the Service situation, it was mentioned that all current Service personnel will be staying with Oliver. Ya think? Hopefully we will know even more prior to the Rally. I suspect though that one of the "problems" will be trying to separate fact from fiction. In any case, certainly there will be more to come here on the Forum - tune in everyday for the next chapter. Bill p.s. I will miss not seeing you at the Rally!

Pool noodles - simply use a razor blade to slit the noodle length wise and then shove it onto the edges of the solar panels. This will protect the cover. I have this exact situation and get around it with the use of a small external solar panel to charge the 4 AGM's that I keep onboard while my Oliver is in storage. Bill

Yes -the English language is a wonderful thing. As is the wonderful world of statistics. Certainly it is possible that the Dexter axles ARE made in the USA. But, the other parts that are "attached" to those axles could be made in other countries. I thought I read in one of the posts above some calculations which basically tried to prove that there has been a relatively small number of Olivers that have had the type of spring failures identified in this thread. Is even one spring failure beyond what is acceptable? Just because something was made outside the USA doesn't necessarily mean that it is sub-standard or non-premium or less than luxury. Perhaps there was a "bad batch" of springs due to ?????. Or, perhaps there was an error in the assembly of certain "packs" of springs. Or, perhaps the conditions that certain Olivers have been subjected to have been outside the design boundaries of these springs. Or, etc., etc.,etc.. Is Oliver at "fault" in this regard because they purchased a component of the Oliver Travel Trailer from one of the most reputable axle suppliers in the USA? Is Dexter at "fault" in this regard because they purchased from a supplier in China and I assumed that they (Dexter) made sure that they (Dexter) was receiving what was paid for? I concur with what GJ says in this regard. Yes, it is each owner's best interest to inspect the suspension (and all other parts within reasonable bounds) - both now and into the future regardless of wherever parts were made or assembled. Bill

Mad dogs and Englishmen? 😎

Sure - but - its still fun to just sit there and count all that money I saved. 🤑 Ha Ha.

Harbor Freight currently has what looks to be the same socket set at a "reduced price" of $10.99. It is SKU #96322. Bill

Much better on the pic - thanks. Before putting Twist to bed in the late Fall I make sure to clean those tracks well - this includes taking the black tracks out of the channel. Then I use a CalMark cover over the winter and in the Spring those tracks are basically just as I left them in the Fall. A dehumidifier might help a little but I believe that the major help will be in the cleaning. Good luck. Bill

John - I assume that the attachments in your post above are pics of your windows. Please repost those in that I do not believe that the ".heic" extension on those files is an acceptable format in the platform we are using for the Forum. Surely your location does not help given all the moisture you probably have. The solutions will all have to do with keeping those tracks clean and drained and a bit of moisture control. Bill

Really BIG levelers on one side? 😇