topgun2

I thought that this was/is the Truma water heater.🤔 (Note: my apologizes to Truma and its owners - just could not resist the chance to poke fun in response to all the Suburban water heater haters out there.)

Just look at all that coin you're saving!

If it makes you feel any warmer - the forecast low for tonight in Asheville, NC is 8 degrees.🥶 Bill

Perhaps - but - this would require getting the automatic control probe into the water tank and I simply didn't want to drill a hole into that tank and have to deal with pressure and leak issues. Bill

In a recent post in the thread - "Truma has QC issues…. I mentioned that I had used a mod with a meat thermometer in order to - " tell me when the water is at about 104 degrees. Then I simply take a shower using only hot water (i.e. I do not "mix" cold water with the hot in order to get the temp back down to a comfortable level). This saves propane by not heating the water to 140 degrees in the first place, saves water because I don't have to mix the hot with cold (wasting that water until I get the mix right), and saves me from enduring that short burst of "cold" when taking a navy shower and turning the water back on." This mod is fairly simple- First purchase a meat thermometer that has a "cabled" probe on it like THIS one. Next - examine your Suburban water heater to determine how the Styrofoam insulation has been placed over the outside of the water heater. Note that most heaters have this insulation in two halves that meet at about the middle point of the heater (top to bottom). Gently lift the insulation and place the meat thermometer probe between the insulation and the water heater tank - try to get as much of the probe as you can in direct contact with the tank. Secure the probe cable to the outside of the insulation and tape the two halves of the Styrofoam insulation back together (note: at this point I also added a layer of reflextix insulation over the areas of the water heater that I could reach. Finally, route the end of the meat thermometer cable such that the end that plugs into the "read out unit" comes through the fresh air return grill under the street side bed. To use - plug in the meat thermometer read out and turn on the water heater. As the water inside the tank heats up you will note the "read out" on the thermometer will start to rise. It will not show you the actual temperature of the water inside the tank because the probe is on the outside of the tank. You will have to determine what is the temperature on the "read out" that equates to approximately 104 degrees (that is the temperature that most of us take showers plus or minus depending on how hot you really want to take your shower). In my case the "read out" will show between 93 and 95 degrees. At this point, I simply turn off the water heater, get in the shower and using ONLY the hot water, take my shower. Yes, there will be a few seconds for the water to turn hot when you first turn on the water but I usually "catch" this water in a small container (if I'm really watching my water usage). The use of the stock "shut-off" valve on the shower head for "Navy" showers can be used without the momentary shot of cold water when you turn the water back on - this is due to the fact that you are only using the hot water with no cold water being on at the same time. When not using the heater, I simply unplug the "read out unit" and store it one of the kitchen drawers leaving the meat probe wire barely hanging outside the furnace fresh air return. At one point I did fashion a holder for the "read out" unit and placed it near the fresh air return grill. However, I have since removed that because the "read out" unit is not very heavy and is fairly easy to read just hanging by the cable. Questions? Bill

OK - I'm done looking and searching for that post! So as to not hi-jack this thread I'll start a new topic covering using a meat thermometer with a Suburban water heater. See - HERE. Bill

I'm working on it (finding it, that is). Might be less time consuming to simply re-do the post given that last night I went through the first 100 pages of all the posts I've written over the years without finding it!

Interesting replies to you original question! My original thought was that you were simply hitting the road and making one night stops until you got to the "destination". My bad! I had mentioned the Cracker Barrel in St. Joe even though it is not all that far from where you are starting off. I mentioned this particular CB because it is one of the better ones and certainly no matter which CB it would be, they are not a place to "camp". These are simply meant to be a place to get off the road and catch some sleep. Another place that I've stayed is a bit further up the road - Big Lake State Park, near Mound City, MO. Clean showers and restrooms, big shade trees, electric and water and dump, play ground and is right on an oxbow lake. Easy to get to off interstate 29. Bill

Don't forget about those "scupper holes" that are located in the bottom of our trailers. These are there to allow moisture to be "pulled out" from between the inner and outer shells. Bill

Cracker Barrel in St. Joe, MO Note: quite after 10pm Byre Lake Park - GPS 43.93009, -99.83665 Note: the bar/restaurant located right at the exit off interstate 90 has cold beer and a great burger. The park is located about 6 miles north of town but is free (electric is available if arranged in town in advance). Quite and plenty of room. There is a pit toilet that is basically OK. Bill

100 night - nice! Just starting to feel like home? Be safe out there. Bill

Well, not exactly. As you use the water in the tank fresh (cold) water comes into the tank. However, the water begins to heat up as it is being used. I've never actually used the 6 gallons taking a shower (or for anything else), so, I really don't know at what temp the water heater kicks back on nor how cold the water can get before all this happens. Several years ago I did a post showing a mod to the water heater where I use a "meat thermometer" to tell me when the water is at about 104 degrees. Then I simply take a shower using only hot water (i.e. I do not "mix" cold water with the hot in order to get the temp back down to a comfortable level). This saves propane by not heating the water to 140 degrees in the first place, saves water because I don't have to mix the hot with cold (wasting that water until I get the mix right), and saves me from enduring that short burst of "cold" when taking a navy shower and turning the water back on. Bill

Caption for above pic? "Three old ugly guys standing in front of a great looking camper" 😂

You mean that you simply can't craw in there to get what you want?😁

In addition to @johnwen's comments regarding the spacing of the bracket from the window frame - My first inclination was to tighten the brackets to the frame - loose screws and bolts tend to make me believe that things should be tight - but in the case of these blinds this thinking was wrong. The "spacers" allowed for the bracket screws to be tight but (as @johnwen says) it also allowed for the bracket to be positioned correctly in order to engage the frame of the blinds properly. Another thought is that since you have already "used" the frame clips multiple times and since these clips were apparently not fully seated in the first place, it is possible that they have lost a bit of "spring" and/or have become slightly collapsed such that they no longer hold as they once did. The solution for this is either new clips (my favorite) or to try to bend the original clips back into something near the original position (do not try to do this while the clips are on the window frame). If you are going to be at the 2025 Owner's Rally let me know and I'll bring you a few new clips. Or, contact Oliver Service and they will send you a couple. Bill

First - Welcome and glad that you are here. Thanks for the kind words! Second - Obviously, if you purchase a used Oliver, the price will be based on what you and the owner negotiate. The price as posted by Oliver might have a little bit of "wiggle" room in it but not much - here I'm talking about 1 to 2 thousand dollars - and even this is generally found by getting a discount on an option or a "floor" model type of thing. I've not dealt with any of the dealers but I'd guess that the bottom line price from them will be very much in line with the price from the factory. Speaking of the factory - don't be reluctant to give them a call. They will NOT harass you, sell your info, etc. However, they are a great source for information relative to options on models and what just might be available at various dealers (to include anything that might be at the factory). Good luck! Bill

OUCH!

John - Hopefully other members will chime in with suggestions. I've never really worried about height issues and have never run into a problem other than a couple of gas stations that seemed to have very low canopies over the pumps. And, now with my two year old Garmin 890 I have never had an alert or routing problem due to height. There have been a couple of times that the Garmin has re-routed me due to traffic. The first time I refused to obey that nice little lady inside the Garmin because I was very confident that I knew where I was going. While I was correct in knowing where I was going I simply wasn't going there very quickly with all the traffic stopped on a six lane interstate. Once I started listening it was like she placed me on a magic carpet and got me moving again. Good luck! Bill p.s. there are (of course) other ways to get traffic data such as Google maps and Waze, but the "height restriction" issue with towing can be a bit of a "problem"

Me too.😢

On my Garmin 890 there are three calculation modes - "faster time", "Shorter Distance", and "Off Road". Plus, there are a bunch of "Avoidances" and even "custom avoidances". The only one I don't see is "Less Fuel". Bill

Rich - Now that you have the screens removed for cleaning: If you live in or travel to any area of the country that has "no-see-ums" you might consider replacing the screen material with material that has a smaller/finer mesh such that these biting little critters can't get in. There is nothing "wrong" with the standard screen material except that the mesh (the small holes in the screen) is big enough for these (and other) small insects to crawl through. There are a number of YouTube videos on how to easily tackle this job - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=t7emMleueHg Good luck. Bill

@jd1923 There are a number of inaccurate statements in your post above. Specifically, please refer to any number of prior posts here on the Forum regarding the issues and whole story (to include Oliver's involvement ((or lack thereof))) relative to the fresh water tank issue. Hopefully a review of the entire situation will help with your (and/or anyone's) concerns in this regard. March 13, 2018 October 26, 2017 May 5, 2024 Note your participation in this May 5th, 2024 thread. With regards to the "cutouts". I believe that it was sometime in 2018 when Oliver "standardized" their wiring for all Oliver Travel Trailers. Prior to that - for both your Oliver and my Oliver a certified electrical tech was hired to do the wiring on each trailer. Since there were more than one tech (I've been told that there were as many as three at any given time) and since it is doubtful any of these tech had specific RV experience, the wiring and connected "cutouts" were dramatically different from one trailer to the next. Yes, perhaps Oliver should have had a QC person go back and check each tech's work. But, it is fairly obvious that Oliver didn't believe this was necessary given that the tech's were "certified". Once the "cutouts" were "hidden" by cover plates the only way they could be seen would be to take things apart - as you and many of us have done. Same thing (I believe) applies to the circuit breaker issue you mention. While not "perfect" my Oliver continues to serve me extremely well after ten years. If I had not purchased an Oliver I would be on my second or third RV by now and still dealing with trying to make those things into an Oliver. Yes, it is frustrating to deal with someone's carelessness and/or lack of proper technique/skill but it is a fact of life and Oliver through its own quality control system tends to limit most issues of this nature. Finally, From my experience, Oliver has always bent over backwards in helping many owners correct any issues with the trailer. And this extends well beyond what the stated warranty period may reflect. Bill

A & O - Have a great time and safe travels! Tell everyone "HI" for me and I'll see ya in May. Bill