topgun2

Jason - Sorry about that - If I had thought for just a minute and/or looked at your signature I would have realized what the "problem" is. Those fancy new awnings sure are nice given how easy they are to deploy, but, that ease of use has a cost. For what its worth - I bet that I've only used my old style awnings a dozen times in the past eight years. Bill

There was at least one owner that had a "problem" with the door lock which prevented them from being able to operate it. I believe that that was a problem with the "electronic lock" and not the door itself - but - that is at least one situation where this rear "emergency" window came in handy. Bill

See - I told you that "payback" could be tough!

Be careful - "payback" could be tough.😇

Are the green's cups bigger over there?😁 I've also past that aircraft many times but instead of being able to tell you what it was, I always wondered exactly how they landed it on top of that little post! THAT really does look like a great campsite! How was the weather? Bill

How so? What was the difference between your previous awnings and the one you have now that makes the previous ones so much easier to clean? Bill

I'd question that remark due to the fact that the previous "slider" window had a screen that could be considered a hindrance to getting to the "red handles" that are also used to open that window for "emergency purposes". By the looks of it I'd be willing to bet that the manufacturer of that window makes a screen for it. And, with regards to any of these windows being "blocked" by a screen - I know what I'm doing if I really have to get out of that window! Bill

As GJ points out above - there are a number of things that can cause "issues" with propane - and - these issues tend to be more prevalent when the temperatures are low - and - the lower the temps go the even more prevalent things become. This is at least one of the reasons that it is a good thing to teach yourself about EXACTLY how your propane system works. Not only follow GJ's advice above but also learn the proper procedure for exactly how to open the valves on your tank(s). "Sniff" a small bit of propane at least once a year or so such that the distinctive smell gets burned into your brain - I would say refreshed but somehow that just doesn't seem right. Propane, methane, some smells from your grey and/or black tank can all smell similar, but, they are certainly different. And, by all means, don't take any of this lightly (no pun intended). If you even think that you smell propane DO NOT even turn a light on or off. I don't mean to scare anyone but knowledge is a good thing in most cases. Bill p.s. Please let us know what the results of your pressure test are come Monday.

The English language is such a wonderful thing! Two entirely different takes on the same wording AND both make sense.🤔 Bill

Yes - look at the bottom of my post above and you will see information about my tow vehicle and my Oliver listed. You can put this same information in all your posts by left clicking your mouse on your Avatar. Then left click on "Account Settings". Then scroll down a little bit until you see "Signature" on the left side of your screen. Then left click on Signature. When the new window pops up you can fill out any detail (such as you see at the bottom of my posts) regarding your tow vehicle and Ollie. If you have problems - just PM me. Bill

Looks like two tables to me - look at the support feet/legs. Bill

That's because you paid the "big bucks"😁. To add a bit of fuel to the fire - I'm also aware of a Ford recall on the late model F-150's for problems with the emergency brakes! Apparently this recall is to fix emergency brakes that will "automatically" come on while simply driving down the road! Imagine the looks we Ford owners are going to get when we start simply chocking our truck wheels even without the Ollie in tow? OK all you GM, Chevy and Dodge owners out there - here is your chance to pile it on. But, be forewarned - payback is tough! Bill p.s. I specifically excluded the Tundra owners from the above because it is "common knowledge" that Toyota's never have any "issues" 😇

like you actually had/have a propane leak somewhere between the tank and the furnace? Tomorrow when the system is pressure tested you should know the answer to this question. How cold was it when the problem first came to light? yes as long as you had the regulator on either "automatic" or pointed towards the tank that was 1/3 full. There are circumstance's when this statement is not true but for the most part, those circumstances are rare. probably, but unless there is a reason to suspect that your current regulator and/or gauges are faulty - why change them? It would be helpful if you filled out your "signature" line such that members of the Forum had a better idea about the age of your Ollie and, therefore, be in a position to give you better advice. You also might want to review the "proper" way to "open" your propane tanks. Also, yes, there are gauges that will reasonably show you the level of propane left in a tank (look up Mopeka). Bill

Yep - that 'splains" it.😇

Or, make sure that you get into the habit of using your emergency brake!

As far as I know - there was only one Oliver ever produced that came from the factory with dedicated tank heaters. This was way back in the custom order days (even prior to my hull #117) and was for an Ollie that was to be used during the winter in northern PA and similar locations. Other than that, the tanks are located between the hulls of the Oliver and are "heated" by the radiant heat mainly coming off the hoses that come from the furnace to the various outlets located in the interior of the Oliver - i.e. these flexible hoses are not insulated and therefore give off heat in the area between the hulls. Hope this helps! Bill

I'll give it a shot even though I'm certainly not in the league of you electrician types. This/these fuses will "blow" if you reverse the positive/negative cables by mistake. Many years ago I did this and even though I replaced the blown fuse in the old RV, I neglected to even think that there just might be one of these in my Tacoma too. Fast forward a couple of weeks and I'm scrambling to figure out why the Taco is not charging the RV batteries. Fast forward another three days and I came upon another blown fuse in the Taco. Strange - now everything works as it should! Bill

That's exactly where I plug in my small electric heater when I have commercial camp ground power - just like ScubaRx

Interesting view of the bolts/rivets on the hinged side of the door. Kind of like looking at an X-ray.

Bummer on the sag deal - my 8 year old door is in exactly the same place as when it was delivered. Perhaps this is because (basically) when the Ollie is in motion, the door is closed and locked. When I'm camped, the door is open - unless I have guests. If I had to replace a sagging door then I'd certainly consider getting that new door instead - it appears to be more substantial than the one I have now. Bill

If it were me - I'd actually place the insulation (Reflectix in this case) on the underside of the fiberglass. This is fairly easily done on the two "trap" doors but is somewhat more difficult to place it on the underside of the fiberglass. If you really want to have insulation on top of the fiberglass then I'd suggest using a foam insulation panel on top of the fiberglass followed by the hyper-vent and then the mattress. While I do not have the hyper-vent product I have used a 1/2 inch insulating foam panel under my mattress without any issues for the past 8 years. If you go this route then also consider cutting pieces of the foam board for use around the edges of the mattress to insulate the mattress from the relatively cold exterior wall. When I did mine, I cut the foam board such that it was about one to two inches short of the top of the mattress so that it could not be seen nor felt when I was in the bed. I believe that it was John Davies that continued with this idea by insulating from the bottom of the windows down the wall to the bottom of the mattress so that when turning over in the middle of the night your bare arm (other body parts) would not touch the relatively cold exterior wall. Bill

Yes - in fact, it is good practice to only have your inverter "on" when you actually are using it to get from 12 volt (battery) power to 120 volt power that you have no other source for (i.e. shore power). For example - if you are out in the woods "boondocking" (or a rest stop or parking lot or ....) and have no way to plug your Ollie into any external source of 120 volt power (generator or pedestal or very long extension cord) but you still want to use the microwave to pop a bag of popcorn, then turn on the inverter, use your microwave to pop that bag of corn and immediately (so you don't forget) turn the inverter back off. You do this because the inverter will continue to use some power even though the microwave is not running. Bill

Can you give us a bit more detail on this? Can this window be opened? By "single pane" do you mean that it is a single pane of glass and not an insulated double pane of glass? Or, do you mean that the "single pane" does not have a slider opening? Or, something else? Would you have a picture of it? Bill

Aren't we all?😉

In order to "complicate" this discussion a bit further - The remote buttons used for being able to turn on the inverter "remotely" are connected to the inverter via what looks like a telephone cable. The little contacts inside that remote have been known to become dirty over time and can make the remote basically useless. If it appears as though the remote is not working - then - try using the on/off button on the inverter itself. Bill