topgun2

Sort of back to the subject line - I went to the RV and Camping show in Greenville, South Carolina today. There were a ton of RV's there and quite a number of motor homes. Not one molded fiberglass camper. Honestly, I did try to find something, anything that had what one might even call a decent build quality. It should come as no surprise - I didn't find a thing (with the possible exception of one motor home costing in the 1/2 million range). In fact, there were a fair number of these things that makes me wonder just how on earth the dealer will ever sell something where the cabinet drawers are already falling out, the doors and drawers either don't close or are not level and even the exterior seams are not fully caulked. However, there sure was a bunch of people that genuinely seemed excited about these hunks of junk. Go figure! Bill

May the new year bring everyone peace, joy, and many safe, enjoyable journeys in their Oliver. Bill

Everyone should note that until the site is "fixed" you will also not see the pop-up message that you have a new "private message". It appears that you still will get email notification if you get a new private message through. To check to see if you have a private message - click on "Forums" above and then click on "My Profile". Finally click on "Messages". Bill

This coming summer I'm planning on fly fishing Idaho for the first time. As a general comment, I try to stay away from "famous" streams as I find them to usually be over-rated and crowded. Small streams are great and even better if no other humans are seen during the day. My current plan is to start in early July with streams that feed the Palisades Reservoir just west of Alpine, WY (eastern Idaho), then continue north/northwest hitting Big Elk and Rainey creeks. I'll then get on highway 26 and in Idaho Falls take route 20 and 93 through the towns of Arco and Mackay (Big Lost River). Then over to just north of Ketchum for the north fork of the Big Wood river. Next would be Stanley and Lowman, Idaho for Marsh Creek and Deadwood River. Down to Boise to visit friends for a few days and then head due north to eventually get to the Selway and Lochsa Rivers and Kelley Creek. By this time it should be mid to late August and time to head home to North Carolina via Missoula, MT and Interstate 90. Any suggestions on other streams to fish, little towns to visit, places to boondock that are near my route, sites to see, restaurants to not be missed, grocery stores, laundrys, etc. would be most appreciated. Bill

Yep, the problem has been reported to Jason. With the holidays I'm guessing that it will be the middle of next week before we are fully back up and running as usual. Bill

Canoe12 - I too was a bit curious concerning the "oven" but I re-read that article and it specifically says "dutch oven". Angela - drop a private message to Jason Wamsley here on the Forum with your email address and I'm sure that he will get a copy to you. Mike & Carol - I agree - no matter how hard I ever tried I simply do not have the ability to put words together so well. First the Christmas and then the New Year's commentary - I just can't wait to read about Valentine's Day and/or Easter. Bill

Canoe12 - WOW! Seems strange that just a "slight incline" would shift a 1/3 full gas tank enough to get that much gas away from the fuel pickup. Sure would be nice to know exactly where the fuel pickup is located. Certainly during the winter months I keep all my vehicle tanks at least above 1/2 full. But, I do understand where a situation could arise where one would be at 1/3 and certainly you would think that would be enough to at least start the vehicle. As you say - better to know it now. Bill p.s. thanks for reminding me to not complain when our temp is in the low 40's and yours is 12.

hellsbay - yes, simply use the "winterization" procedure to bring water into your system, but do not turn the water heater by-pass valve. Note that you will have to flush the water heater after treatment with the vinegar and in doing so you will also flush the other water lines as well. Bill

If you follow the procedure listed in a couple of posts here on the Forum you should be able to get the TV sound through the stereo speakers - good luck. Unfortunately, I have seldom used the Bluetooth functions on mine, so, I am not of much help there. Bill

In case you missed my comment above - have you tried T-Oliver's suggestion (see about 4 posts above). Bill

Do the other functions of the Furrion work properly without Bluetooth on?

ccarole - sorry, I thought that you simply didn't know where your pantry was. Yes, "prowatt" is your inverter. By pressing in (and holding for two to five seconds) the little black button on the panel labeled prowatt you should be able to turn off your inverter. Note T-Oliver's suggestion above - hope it helps you. Bill edit - re your "bonus" question - as long as you have your inverter (prowatt) turned on (and your batteries are OK) you should have power at the 110 outlets in your Oliver. Obviously, when you turn the inverter off you will no longer have power at your 110 outlets. When you are plugged into "shore power" there is no need to have your inverter on since the shore power will be providing 110 to these outlets automatically.

Bikechuck - Thought that you were only asking about the king bed in that it is the only one (besides the dinette) that can be taken up and down. I have the twin bed model and I think I was told that it is the most popular. Since I travel alone about 80 % of the time, I have the street side made similar to a couch. Of course, the back cushions can be removed and it is then a standard single bed while the curb side has a regular bed mattress on it. We really like having the "nightstand" and not having to climb over each other or disturb each other in the middle of the night while making trip(s) to the bath. We have found that this bedding arrangement does not get in the way when amorous intentions come calling. With the one side being set up like a couch, we had reading lights installed near the pantry and in the rear street side corner. This way, we both can sit on the couch in the evening and read. Bill

Carole - the pantry for the Elite II is located on the street side between the bed area and the dinette. The battery compartment (only accessible from the exterior) is directly beneath it. Does this help? Bill

Twist & Grumble - Glad to hear that the three of you are doing well. There is a section over on the main Forum page for Campgrounds and Parks. Reviews and pictures are always welcome. I have never experienced the Christmas holidays in a warm climate so I would think that it would be a bit strange. However, as I type this I am thinking about that dirty car in the garage that should be washed today. A temperature higher than 47 degrees sure would be welcome in getting that chore done! Bill and Twist (the Oliver not the person ;)

Chuck - if you PM me with your email address I will send a copy to you. Bill

Bikechuck - Just in case Reed & Karen don't see this until after Christmas - I believe that they leave their bed in the down position all the time unless they happen to be having people "in" for dinner or cards. Bill

Ray & Betty Jo - In case you haven't come across it in wandering through the past posts here on the Forum, you might be interested in the "open letter" from the Oliver's dated June 9, 2017 - just enter "Oliver open letter" in the search box. Bill

Merry Christmas and Happy New Year to the "family" on the internet from the mountains of North Carolina. Bill

Rummy - as a general comment the lead acid are less expensive and for the same battery size will have more amp hours. However, in the case of the Trojans that Oliver uses, the lead acid batteries have 50 (as a group of 4) more amp hours that the AGM's. But since one should not deplete the lead acid's below 50% the actual additional amp hours is only 25. If you chose the lead acids AND the Trojan watering system then the cost of this combination is fairly close to that of the AGM's. On the plus side for the AGM's is that they can be oriented in something less than a straight up and down plane since they are sealed while the lead acid's will leak if you do that. Bill

I might be wrong, but, I don't think that there is such a video here. However, the replacement is easy. The anode is towards the bottom of the water heater and usually has a "yellow" smiley face type drawing on it. Note the orientation of this drawing in that it will help you get the correct amount of torque or tightness on that "bolt" when you screw it back in. Using the appropriate socket (deep socket is better) and perhaps even an extension on your ratchet wrench un-screw the anode and remove it from the water heater. Note that before you start this process the water heater should be off and you should have "released" and pressure in the water heater by lifting the latch on the water heater safety valve. Once any water that was in the heater has drained, flush the heater by squirting water into the hole from the anode rod until no more "stuff" comes out. Then wrap two or three wraps of teflon tape around the threads of the anode rod and re-insert. Be careful to NOT cross thread this. Once you are sure that you have not cross threaded then use the socket and rachet wrench to tighten things back down. Sorry, I do not have the torque specs nor the size of that socket (it is something like 15/16th and is the only relatively large "nut" in that area of the heater) right at my finger tips, but, if you use that drawing I mention above you will be close on the torque. Hope this helps! Bill

That depends - Obviously if you have "sealed" batteries not only do you not add water, there isn't even a place where you can add it. If you have the Trojan 105 lead acid batteries and have the Trojan watering system then you follow the instructions that came with the watering system (it really is great and easy to use). If you do not have the Trojan watering system then you must add water the old fashion way - lift open the covers on each of the batteries, add water to the bottom of the split ring and then reinstall the covers. Usually you do not have to move or remove and of the battery cables to do this, but, you may have to unbuckle the battery retaining straps. Bill

Servicing the water heater is a piece of cake. However, it takes a bunch of water and is easier if you get one of those "flushing" wands that are sold for that purpose. Glad you found the problem and got it fixed! Bill

Never a problem with the .02 cents here - the more the merrier. Rugged - yes. 4 season - yes. -20 degree F - (in my opinion) no. Or, did you mean simply 20 degrees F? There are not many places in the continental US that get to -20F, at least for very long. I simply can't imagine trying to camp in that temperature. Heck, the coldest I've ever been in was -16 and the door seals on my BMW were very stiff. I guess that in the event you were stuck out someplace and the temps did get that low, you could get away with the procedure that you describe, but I sure would not want to do that for very long. Bill

Wow - never needed a "wrench" to remove the aerator. Perhaps the Canoe12 solution or "liquid wrench" in addition to Mike's idea. Bill