topgun2

Under and Land - Welcome! The plant tour is great - take a bunch of pictures. They will help you later on if you should need help in trying to do a Mod or if something should go wrong and you are trying to fix it. There is a ton of info here on the Forum and while our "search function" is not the greatest, I'd just poke around looking for things that catch your attention. Then ask questions - if it has been covered before I'm sure that someone will point that out. If it hasn't been covered then we will all learn something new. You only have between now and June to get trips planned and questions answered - so - let the fun begin. Bill

OOPS! Sorry about that - original post is edited! Should have read curbside! Bill

I'm guessing that since she doesn't want to change beds - a flashlight between the teeth is also out of the question?

Yes, the water pump is easy to get to on the CURB side under the bed. Replacement is also relatively easy with just two water line connections and three or four screws that hold the pump to a board. Entire process should take less than 1/2 hour. Take a look at the picture below. Bill

Looks OK to me! Glad I could help. Bill

Hobo - PM sent re editing profile. Bill

While this might not pertain to all of us, it is perhaps good advice for most of us. Don't Let The Old Man In Bill

Unless you are particularly sensitive to things being exactly on level I wouldn't worry too much about this prior to delivery. After I took delivery of my Elite II I placed a couple of small bubble levels on each side and on the front nose primarily because I found that the level that is located on the front jack just would not stay adjusted properly, and, it was simply easier to see and use these others from various locations without the need to have to always go back to the front jack. Bill

I've never worried about this in that other than my once per year cleaning and/or repainting of the whale tail, I've never had the situation where I needed to take those shackles off. However, shortly after I took delivery of my Oliver, I did purchase stainless steel shackles (Lowes, Home Depot, Ace) so that I would not have to deal with the eventual rust on the stock ones. Bill

When I towed with vehicles other than a 1/2 ton truck I felt the need for rear side-view mirrors. But, since the Oliver is just about the same width as my F-150, I can see behind it just fine. Like John, I too turn on my rear camera when I'm in heavy traffic and/or am backing up - think safety here. That camera also helps avoid the bozo who is right on your bumper and just about the time you decide to move right, they jump out trying to get one car ahead. If you decide to get the mirrors anyway, don't get the kind that "strap" onto your existing mirrors. Those rubber straps are difficult to deal with and do not last more than a couple of years. Nor would I purchase the type that just "clips" onto the existing mirrors. This type that "slides" over the existing mirrors is better: https://www.amazon.com/CIPA-10700-Custom-Towing-Mirrors/dp/B000CISLSI/ref=sr_1_18?ie=UTF8&qid=1547649821&sr=8-18&keywords=slide+on+towing+side+view+mirrors Of course, mirrors that can be "tilted" back alongside your vehicle are great in that you can swing them back when getting into tight spaces and then back out when the area opens back up. I've never owned a vehicle that had mirrors that can be extended while towing since I've always thought that most of these were a bit ugly. Hope this helps. Bill

Certainly the Tacoma can pull the Elite II. But, it just as certainly has its limitations. Several years ago I was towing a "stick built" that weighed only 3200 pounds. Heading west on Interstate 70 into Kansas a headwind picked up and was blowing at 40 mph. My gas mileage went to 4. Yes, four miles to the gallon. With the relatively small gas tank in the Tacoma I HAD to stop every 120 miles to refill. I was not so worried about the cost of this as I was about being out in the middle of nowhere and not being able to find a gas station - they don't call the west "wide open spaces" for nothing. After that trip I decided to not take that risk ever again and purchased an F-150 with the large gas tank. Now, not only do I get better gas mileage but I never am worried about braking, running out of gas, pulling virtually any hill at virtually any (sane) speed or even my personal comfort with reduced noise levels and roomier cabin. Virtually all of the 1/2 ton trucks currently on the market will give you these benefits plus an added safety margin. Bill

YES, Andersen levelers are expensive, but, worth it. YES, "Legos" are cheaper, a little more difficult to use, but, they get the job done. YES, scraps of lumber are even cheaper, are heavier and can be dirtier, but, they also get the job done. NO, don't jack the axles. Bill

I printed the chart below and placed it near my surge protector readout. Hope it helps you! Bill Error Code Chart E-0 Normal E-1 Reverse Polarity E-2 Open Ground E-3 Voltage High E-4 Voltage Low E-7 Frequency High E-8 Frequency Low E-9 Data Link Down E-10 Replace Surge Protector

Well, the south area just reopened this past year, so, it is new. However, there is more grass and "open" spaces on the north end. In either case, try to make reservations as far in advance as you can - at least for the months of April through October. There are plenty of hiking trails and since it is a gated State Park the traffic is light - particularly before 10am and after 5pm - with plenty to roads to ride (some closed to traffic too). I know that there are a few sites on the north end that have sewer at the site - I don't know about that for the south end. There is a very nice dump station just as you exit the north end. Bill

Darryl, In that case be sure not to miss Huntington Beach State Park. It is closer to Wilmington. If you go, plan to spend a day right across highway 17 at Brookgreen Gardens. Bill

Frank - I use two runners for that area. When it is time to "clean", it sure is a bunch easier to roll up one of those shorter ones at a time and shake it out as opposed to wrestling with one long one. Also, since more or your "dirt" will be at the front near the door, I chose to add a third "runner" just for the area from the door to the seat near the bath and keep the other two even shorter. Obviously this allows me to take up the door mat more often without having to move the others. Finally, the one in the "bedroom" is nice and soft, the one in the "kitchen" is easily cleaned (think spills here) and the one by the door is "all weather". Bill

Heck - I'd even actually pay (not much) to see Bugeyedriver get out that window. As an "old" pilot I'm sure that he could do it, but, I'm also sure that it would be worth a laugh or two. On the other hand - given the right amount and direction of wind, I'd bet that there is a possibility that Bosker just might fly with those ears of his. Bill

http://olivertraveltrailers.com/topic/fire/ I like the idea of getting out FIRST, but if you are in a position of even the slightest indecision then another extinguisher just might be of help. Bill

https://www.youtube.com/embed/B2AEkfjc6-o?feature=player_detailpage Bill

Frank - GREAT! Look forward to meeting you. It really is a nice park. Be safe on the journey. Bill

Stan - A cheaper and somewhat elegant solution to the frosted glass in the door is: https://www.amazon.com/CloZures-Controls-Privacy-Outside-fingertip/dp/B07FDKJFHD/ref=sr_1_14?ie=UTF8&qid=1547156425&sr=8-14&keywords=RV+door+shade A number of owners have already done this one and I'm thinking about it. Bill p.s. keep you head down - I understand that some snow is headed your way for this weekend.

I'll need to check my supply, but, if I still have enough "tint" material left I'll bring it to the Owner's Rally in May and Mike & Carol will have it available during their presentation. Bill

Questions - What rubber was used on the bottom and how did you attach the rubber to the wood? Also, did you determine the angle of the cut via measuring, an existing chock, guessing, looking at your truck tires, or ???? Any idea of what that angle is? Did you think of making the face of the chock "cupped" for the radius of the tire? Did you put a coat of poly on these chock to help prevent water retention? Bill

I like how you think on that zero cost thing. And, it uses "scrap" that was probably just hanging around the shop anyway. I keep two chocks for each side roped together. Obviously, the rope makes it easy to remove the chock from the wheel, but, having the two roped together means that you can simply get both done at the same time. And, if it has been raining, the rope is probably drier and/or cleaner than the individual chocks would be. Bill

Virtually always open when stopped except for those cold nights. I did put a curtain on it for a bit more privacy and I placed "tint" film on it so that the "look" from the exterior was the same as the other windows. For moisture control and ventilation it can't be beat. Bill