topgun2

A couple more things to try - 1. have you simply shut everything off, unplugged the generator from the Ollie and waited at least 5 minutes to give all systems a chance to reset? 2. If it is the transfer switch (I doubt this because you've now had the same problem with both the front and side transfer switches on your Ollie) and you have a rubber mallet then you can hit (tap) the transfer switch box. This will help the springs inside the switch snap back into place if they are "stuck".

Don't worry - yet. First we have to figure out exactly what the problem is. Have we confirmed that there is a grounding plug being used? It should look something like THIS one.

Do you have the optional front shore power plug? If yes, then if possible try plugging the genny into that and see if you get the same result. I assume that you have checked all of your connections - make sure that the cord is solidly plugged into both the genny and the Ollie. Bill

OK - the data link error should not have anything to do with the charging problem. This error code only means that the remote display is not communicating with the main EMS computer. I do not have a generator, but, I still suspect that the issue lies with the either the generator or the transfer switch. Try what Steph and Dud B are telling you. Bill p.s. thanks to Steph and Dud B for trying to help out!

I doubt that it is the inverter - but - it should be turned off anyway. I'm grasping at straws here - but - turn off your converter (pull the fuse in the fuse panel or trip that breaker). Restart the generator and see what the surge protector says. Bill

I assume that you have the Oliver installed Electrical Management System/Surge Protector? If yes - what does the system's readout indicate? Do you have or need a grounding plug on your generator? What percentage are the batteries currently at? Bill

If anyone has this project in mind and wants to use the same material I used - send me a PM and I'll see if I have any "extra" laying around that I could bring to the Rally. Bill

I believe that Oliver does still provide a water pressure regulator at delivery (check with your Oliver Sales person about this). However, even if Oliver does still supply this - it is a fairly generic one and there are better ones available that allow you to set the pressure that you want to come into your Ollie (the generic ones are usually pre-set at 45 psi) plus they allow you to see what the pressure is at the source (like THIS ONE). I highly recommend getting or at least using the one from Oliver at all times. Water filters are another matter. If you only fill your fresh water tank from a known quality source and/or only use the city water inlet from that same source then you do not necessarily need to have a water filter. But, this is not the normal situation and a water filter can help protect you from getting all sorts of things into your Ollie water system. The "all sorts of things" will depend on where you get your water from. A couple of years ago I had to pump water into my fresh water tank directly from a stream. I was glad that I had a filter to keep any possible creepy crawlies out of the tank! In addition, there are those that couple a water softener with the filter. If you live and/or travel in hard water areas of the country this is something to consider too. Bill

Actually, I tried Kydex on my first go at this. It is a bit thinner and that makes getting the holes for attaching the bracket easier . However, once cooled Kydex is less "forgiving" (i.e. harder) as compared to the relatively soft plastic I used. I'm sure that Kydex could work for this purpose but to really get a "form fit" as you would do with a holster, you would have to apply more heat to both the Kydex and, therefore, the camera body than I would feel comfortable with. Bill p.s. "You mentioned that newer cameras came with hoods, but the one on my 2023 did not." Yes, I think that I may have confused this with a camera that was installed by Patriot. A quick look at some 2024 photos shows that the camera I/we have is still being used on new Olivers.

I forgot a couple of pics of the material used: AND rough measurements - 4" front to back 1 3/4" top down to the sides 2 5/8" from the back to the apex of the curve at the front on the sides.

The newer rearview cameras that are installed by Oliver have a built in "hood/cover" that helps protect the camera from sun and rain and (perhaps) some glare. However, those of us with the older cameras no such "protection" is built-in. So, after seeing another one of these cameras where the owner (sorry, I do not remember just who that was) fabricated a hood/cover, I thought that I would try to do the same for my camera. I had some reasonable flexible plastic sheeting laying around the workshop that had originally been used during the installation of a "ceiling" under part of our decks on the house. I believe that the product was called "Underdeck". Anyway, using a bandsaw I cut out a rough shape and then used a heat gun to soften the plastic sheet such that I could hand mold it into the basic shape I wanted. Next, I refined the rough shape again using the band saw and then started sanding until I was basically satisfied. A bit more molding of the cover using the heat gun - note that I actually used the camera as a base for this "final" molding but was careful to not let the camera get too/very hot for the obvious reasons. Then it was a bit of hand sanding - this is not really that difficult given that the plastic is fairly soft. Perhaps the "final" detail of the project was the most difficult - the placement of the holes that aliened the outside bracket with the plastic hood with the holes in the camera body. Note that the bolts that attach the bracket to the camera body are not very long and with the added material of the plastic hood being involved there is not much room for error on this step. Finally, when I was satisfied with how it looked I spray painted the underside of the hood with ultra-flat black paint so that glare/reflection would be reduced. Questions? Bill p.s. Note: In the pics below it really doesn't show, but, the top of the hood does not rest directly on the top of the camera. This allows any heat from the camera and/or the sun to be dissipated such that neither should be subjected to too much heat. l This is the hood that I copied. I reduced and shaped the edges of mine such that there would not be any interference by the hood with the camera angles out to each side. The above is the camera mounted prior to making the hood. TopTop Back Front

No, I didn't shield the bottom - I rarely drive at night and have not noticed a problem in the rain. However, I did notice glare caused by the sun reflecting off the Oliver's white shiny surface. That cause me to paint the underside of my "hood/cover" with ultra flat black paint. This plus moving the camera a bit further aft/towards the back of the trailer helped. Hopefully in about a half hour or so I'll have a chance to take a couple of pics of the hood/cover and post that under a separate thread. Bill

Michelle Kwan skated to Eva's Fields of Gold in exhibition a number of years before I actually found out just who was singing that song. I was seated at a dinner party one night when I heard the song playing softly in the background and YELLED, "that's it!". The other guests must of thought that I was either drunk or crazy. You're correct - "gone far too soon". Bill

I do not recall any thread and/or post about that "hood/cover" on the rear camera. However, hopefully tomorrow morning I will have a chance to post about the hood/cover that I fabricated for my camera. Stay tuned. Bill

Well, "never" is a really long time! And ""out of sight, out of mind" should not be taken literally. As with virtually all things these Andersen Chains should be inspected at least annually. With the woven sleeves mentioned, this is a fairly easy thing to do since they are normally held in place with one or two "zip ties". Each Spring I simply clip the zip ties on each end and push the sleeve back as far as possible looking for damaged places in the chain and hit it with a power washer. After it dries, the sleeves are rolled/pushed back into place and secured once again with a new zip tie. Bill

In the immortal words of Artie Johnson, "Very interesting". Bill

OUCH! I know that we all learn from our mistakes - but - this could be a fairly expensive mistake. Sorry to hear it.😭 Bill

"slowly" ????? 😊

I'll second that - Makes keeping those chains cleaner looking without actually having to clean them. Additionally, after awhile the chains will start to rust in spots. With the sleeves you'll never even see the rust. Therefore out of sight, out of mind. Bill

Patriot - Did you try starting the truck with the fob inside the pouch? Thanks! Bill

As far as I know - The original "chain sleeve" idea came from none other than - Foy!

Now - this is interesting ---- I lined the metal box with aluminum foil with the exception of the lid. Now, when approaching the truck - about ten feet away - the truck's courtesy lights come on, the doors unlock and the running boards deploy. So, I didn't even get inside to see if the truck would start since my lined box failed even step one. Next I'll try lining the lid but that will have to be tomorrow. Bill p.s. thanks to Patriot for busting my safety bubble!

A bit of quick "Google" research gets some answers. Apparently a "tin" box simply isn't as good as a box that is constructed out of a "heavier" metal - think lead here. Also, tin boxes have one or more seams from which signals can "leak". And, the lid on the metal box must fit VERY tightly in order to prevent signal from getting out. Now, why, in my experiment, the fob in the metal box could not be "seen" by the sensor(s) on either the driver's side nor the passenger side doors while it was easily seen inside the truck - I have no idea other than guessing about the strength of the sensor. This would indicate that the metal box used inside one's house could be effective in preventing a bad guy from stealing the vehicle's codes which would allow them to drive the vehicle away. I'll re-try the experiment with a box (I'll use the same one) lined with aluminum foil to see what happens even though this foil wouldn't stop signal leakage from the lid. Bill

Well, I'll be .... Sure enough, the metal box continues to NOT allow the door to be opened - there is simply no response from the truck with the doors or lights or automatic deployment of the step - no matter how close or in what position I place the box. However, as with Patriot's safe in the console, the truck started! I placed the metal box inside the console, outside the console, in the back seat, and under the seat - all with the same result. Interesting! Bill

WE need - demand - pictures. If you can't prove it - did it ever actually happen?🤔