Steve Morris

Everything is now plumbed under the bathroom sink, and pressure tested except the recirculate loop. I have the PEX recirculate line installed from under the the sink back to under the basement floor. But haven't cut into the fresh water fill line to install the "T" yet. I ran out of time today. So far, 17 new connections, and zero links first try. I did end up getting a PEX crimper, and replaced the PEX to 1/2 NPS firing that connects to the original faucet lines. As noted previously, the washers were buggered, so I got new brass fittings to replace the plastic ones. In the back, I'll use a SharkBite "T" due to limited space. The circled gizmo in the photo below is the back flow preventer, correct? @mossemi said to place the "T" after that, and I want to make sure what's what before making a cut! The only trouble I've run into is that two of the screws that held the basement floor in place had the Phillips head stripped from the factory. I dug out the oscillating tool and zapped them off. If the weather holds, I should be done and pressure tested again tomorrow. I've already drained the water heater, so I'll find out in Florida how well it works not having to waste water down the gray tank until it gets hot. Then it's time to winterize. We're supposed to get temps in the low 30°s later this week.

The following video popped up on my YouTube recommendation list a couple of weeks ago, showing a new Bluetooth enabled replacement panel for the SeeLevel II tank monitors. I thought that this would be a handy upgrade, so I called to place an order, and it arrived yesterday. Installation was simple. I removed the original 907-P3 panel (Model 907, with Pump switch and 3 tanks) by taking out the four screws holding it to the wall. Then I pulled off the three connectors for the water pump, and removed the Molex connector on the circuit board. The new panel is a 907-BTP7 (Model 907 with BlueTooth, Pump switch, and up to 7 tanks) and came with a new wiring pigtail. In the video, James shows using WAGO connections. But Oliver leaves very little slack in the wiring for the tank monitor, so there's not much room to cut the existing wires and connect the new ones. And, there's no need to do so. Since we do not have an LP monitor, nor an alarm, we only need the four existing wires; just in different pin locations. The above photo shows the original Molex connector, with, starting from the right: White, Blank, Red, Black, Blue, Blank. As shown in the attached wiring diagram for the new 907-BTP7 panel, all that's needed is to move the last three to the right one pin position, as follows: White, Red, Black, Blue, Blank, Blank. Push on the Molex connector, reconnect the three water pump wires, and replace the panel on the wall. Done, in under 30 minutes! Safety protocol would of course be to switch off the solar disconnect and turn off the batteries before starting, as the Molex pins are not insulated, and bumping them together could cause a spark or blown fuse. Download the SeeLevel app for IOS or Android, and follow the instructions to get it set up. Of course, we do not have an LP monitor, nor more than three tanks, so the ALT and LP buttons will not be used. Garnet used to offer a 907-BTP3 panel, but that was several years ago, and is no longer available. Now, the obvious question, is why would someone want this panel with Bluetooth? Oliver's fresh water tank, like most, has an overflow, so observing tank level isn't really needed for filling. And there are inline flow gauges for much lower cost. But if you're in line at a low flow water fill, with impatient people behind you, it might be nice to know your progress. or maybe you're in the shade, hanging out in your hammock, and suddenly wonder if the shitter's full. Now you can check! 🤣 I'll use it to watch how full the black tank is when I'm flushing it, and monitoring the gray tank when I'm back-flushing it from the drain outlet. It'll be easier than running back and forth between the monitor in the trailer and the faucet on the side of the house. And, simply because I enjoy fiddling with tech stuff like this. I see that the price has gone up considerably since I ordered on November 7th. It was $109.99, and is now $146.37. That's a 33% increase in four days! Here's the link if anyone is interested: https://shopusa.garnetinstruments.com/solutions/holding-tanks/c-709-btp7-709-btp7-display

Installed, and loosely plumbed. The fittings on the end of the PEX that connect to the threaded “T” have questionable washers. So I’m getting more tomorrow. Next I’m going to run a PEX line from the diverter (top) back to the fresh water inlet, and add a SharkBite “T” to recirculate the hot until it actually gets hot. Then test the whole thing under pressure. I don’t want to get to Florida in January and find out I did something wrong!

Thanks, Bill. I don't have any PEX in our house, so I had no need to learn, nor buy a crimper. I'll get the SharkBite "T", and a couple spare straights and elbows. I appreciate the reply.

No going back now! @mossemi Did you use crimp on PEX fittings for the "T" into the fresh water fill for the return line, or a SharkBite "T"? I've never messed with PEX before, and I know some people don't trust SharBite fittings in trailers. So I'm not sure which one I'm likely to have not leak... I'd be further along if the weather was better, and if I hadn't wasted a bunch of time on other stuff. For instance, I spent an hour or so trying to figure out why my EMS wasn't working. I pulled the cover, and there was only 40V AC coming it. I figured I had a bad connection in the external port like I've seen with others, and it was fine. Couldn't be the incoming line, because the light is on on the power cord. Turns out it was getting electricity, but not much. 20 months of having the garage door shut on my 14 gauge extension cord must have cut enough wires it was barely feeding power. And I was running a space heater on that just last week! 😲 Now there is a 12 gauge extension cord going through a notch cut in the bottom of the garage door seal. No more pinching.. And while it was warm enough, I painted and installed the courtesy light deflectors that @Ollie-Haus showed me at a small fiberglass rally here in Ohio in September. I think I'll still add some amber film to tone the light down some more. And, I wasted a couple hours trying to find a flush-mount outdoor rated 110V AC outlet to insert into the panel under the side table, where the propane fridge lower vent was located on older trailers. No such thing! And I really didn't need to do that now, with other stuff needing done before winterizing and then getting ready to go to Florida in January I'm usually good about scheduling my time, but not lately.

Unfortunately, not since 2006. 🤨 They list the couplings under "Watering Tools" Fabrication & Packaging United States - Garden Hose (Reno, NV) China - Hose Reels & Watering Tools That's an interesting idea! 45° or 60° would have been great. I'm not sure coming in from straight down would be beneficial.

Thanks, David What do you use to cover them to prevent contamination and dirt while on the road?

Honestly, I just hooked it up for the photo, and didn’t look at which port I attached it to. 🤪 Usually, I fill up at home without a filter for trips under a week. I use the filter when on full hookups or when we need to refill on the road. Heading to Florida for two months this winter, any the timely release of this new FitRV 3-in-1 filter prompted this upgrade. I considered the proximity of the hanging location to the septic outlet. But we rarely use full hookups sites. The filter would be stored in my bucket at a dump station (which we also rarely use, as I use a macerator pump at home into my septic tank for trips under a week.) Hanging on the basement door would work and maybe be a more sanitary location. I’m in the basement frequently, so not ideal in full hookup settings. Both have compromises. It could be placed in a stand on the ground, too, and moved under the trailer. Lots of options. Thanks for your input!

I've seen similar filter and water softener additions. Here's mine. I recently saw that James at FitRV released a single 2.5" X 10" water filter element to replace the standard 3-stage system. I've considered one of the smaller 3-stage systems as an upgrade, so I thought I'd give this a try as a less expensive alternative. Of course using one 3-stage filter instead of three separate filters is going to mean a shorter interval between replacement. But the cost difference should be negligible, and I won't have to find a place to store a 3-stage system. Here's the FitRV video and article: YouTube: https://youtu.be/t_SQNVapBEw?si=FfufAl7n4p_80Eys Web article: https://www.thefitrv.com/rv-tech/our-new-rv-water-filter-the-fit-rv-3-in-1-filter/ I bought a cheap filter canister from Amazon, that arrived with horribly oversized 3/4" NPT pipe threads, and enough slop that the filter moved over 1/8" up and down. That's not going to work at all, so back it went and a GE housing was ordered. Much better! I assembled with a 3/4" NPT to 3/4" GHT (garden hose thread) on each end; one male-to-male, and the other male-to-female. Then I gave it a test fit on Curiosity's rear bumper. Dummy! The hoses would interfere with the trailer body and the drop down sewers cover. :facepalm: Back to Amazon for a pair of 90° 3/4" GHT male-to-female connectors. In hindsight, I should have used a 90° 3/4 NPT to 3/4 GHT set, but looking today, I couldn't find that combination. This also allowed me some flexibility in the angle of the input and output. Back when I ordered the Oliver, and spent those agonizing months waiting for delivery day, I accumulated a bunch of bits and pieces to get ready to go. (Didn't we all?) One was an adjustable water pressure regulator. I didn't realize that Oliver would supply a fixed 40 PSI inline regulator, and the inline unit was convenient to store with the Camco inline water filters I've been using. So now's the opportunity to get it off the garage shelf and put it to use! I drilled and tapped two threads into the side of the bumper support, and screwed and LocTited in two stainless screws. These are used to hang the whole contraption while in use. It'll be stored in my bucket during transport. I hope this is helpful for anyone wanting to upgrade from an inline water filter. List of components: GE Filter Housing: https://a.co/d/7cbaS28 FitRV 3-in-one filter: https://a.co/d/b0NzDt8 Camco 4' Potable Water Hose: https://a.co/d/eVeV4BJ 3/4" NPT to 3/4" GHT fitting: male-to-male (2-pack): https://a.co/d/5MopLFL 3/4" NPT to 3/4" GHT fitting: male-to-female 2-pack): https://a.co/d/dE1gWDC 90° 3/4" GHT Elbow: male-to-female (2-pack): https://a.co/d/24kw8xO Teflon tape for NPT threads Total cost: $133 plus tax Question: The fixed pressure regulator that came with the Oliver is 40 PSI. I've set the adjustable water pressure regulator to the same 40 PSI. What pressure do those of you with adjustable regulators use?

Generally, I'd agree, especially as I'm cargo capacity limited. However, we're spending two months in Florida this winter, and will be plugged in most places we stay. So saving propane by using free electricity for seven weeks is appealing to me.

We picked up the Costco-special model of the Vornado TAVH10 which is 750/1500 Watts. To make sure it worked, I stuck it in Curiosity yesterday, mid afternoon. Inside was 58 degrees and outside 55 and sunny, with no wind. On high, the temperature only raised 5 degrees the first hour, 6 more the second, and 3 the third, ending at 72. Seems like it wouldn’t get any warmer, even though I had the setting at 85 degrees. Kill-A-Watt showed it wasn’t using more than 1250W at the 1500W setting. That might work in the 30s or 40s if I use the Truma furnace to get up to temperature, but I’m not really confident in its ability for such a highly rated product.

That was my plan last January, when I went to Florida for a rally. I was going to stop in Murfreesboro on the way back to Ohio. But they were at the same rally I was, and then on to the Tampa RV show. Their plan was to schedule a bunch of jobs in Friday and Alabama to keep them someplace warm during the winter. We ended up meeting them at the Retro Reno shop in Jacksonville early February, where we stayed at a hotel on the beach while the guys did our trailer. Only you can decide if it is worth it. It certainly looks great, and makes washing so much easier. And as Bill said, these are some of the nicest, hardest working young men I've ever met!

They seem to have forgotten to put any reference on the web site that it’s a Volkswagen sub-brand. 🤷‍♂️

Maybe a case of "If it ain't broke, don't fix it!" Just in case it would brick the inverter. Oh! I should install the firmware upgrades over and over until I *do* brick it. Then I'll have an excuse to swap in the Victron unit. 😉

Only after trying something the way I think it should function, three or four times over, and it still doesn't work! 😜 Mike did all the hard work. I'm just copying his.

I'm seeing several familiar faces! Keep those photos coming, so those of us not there can experience the gathering vicariously. And have a blast!

A huge thanks to Mike for letting me photograph his bathroom plumbing upgrade back during the rally in May, and for sending details on the connections and hardware. I’ve had the Scandvik and High Sierra components for months, but just now getting to that project. I’ve mocked up the system for location, and I just need to collect the fittings to tie it all together. And drill those big holes! Have I read that a diamond grit tipped saw is best for fiberglass? Or is a fine toothed carbide tip a better choice? Thanks @mossemi!!

That's been more than a month ago since I was told that information. I've written back without any response.

Oddly, my brakes stopped working on our 2023 this past week. Brake light works, but no brakes. That’s on my list of things to do before it gets cold and before heading to Florida in January.

Like @csevel I've been tracing down a faint sewer/sour odor. One place I wanted to check was in the vanity to see if I have any leaks or loose pipes under there. So today I pulled off the bin on the front. Fortunately, everything is tight and dry. All the joints are glued and I checked all couplings to make sure they are tight. But while I was in there, I wanted to do a test fit on the alternate shower components that I bought back in May after looking at Mike's @mossemi system. Much to my surprise, there is a block glued to the inside of the cabinet with what appears to be a check valve and two PVC pipes going to it. Is this the gray tank vent? Or is there one on the fresh water tank? I thought the vent was under the kitchen sink. Mike's trailer is a fair bit older, and didn't have anything mounted there. If it is a vent, any suggestions on how to check to see if it is functioning properly, and not letting smells from the tank get through? Claudia, did you figure out where your smell was originating?

Let her know that there are several previous Airstream owners on this forum that moved to Oliver to get away from expensive repairs, hail damage, rotten floors, failing cabinets, popped rivets, and more. All you need to do is join an Airstream forum to learn there is a better option. 😉

Hopefully, these will be available in the US one of these days, or the shipping from the UK is reasonable. These would come in really handy for cleaning up some of the sloppy wiring we've all found. https://quickfixjb.co.uk/

Lots of ways to do it out there, but most common recommended is jacking up the front of the trailer (also lifting the truck) to provide slack. I did this for a while, but disliked the extra work the jack needed to do to lift the ass-end of the truck. Instead, I introduce slack by overlapping the hitch and ball. I haven't adjusted the nut since Chris Scarff did at the rally in May 2023. When you are hitching up, back the truck under the ball like normal. Then, back up another inch to inch and a half until the nose of the hitch almost touches the ball mount. Now you can easily slip the whale tail on without making any adjustments. It even works at odd angles (within reason) where other methods require dead straight. Unhooking is the opposite: with the hitch still on the ball, open the bail, raise the tongue until the trailer until the ball falls out, back up an inch or so, and drop off the whale tail. Done! Other than the time I needed to hook up almost 90° to the trailer, this method has worked every time. And no extra strain on the jack! I hope that helps

This doesn't solve the problem. But this past weekend, I got to see the modification that @Ollie-Haus made on his 2023. It is a 5"+ length of 1x1x1 aluminum Z-bar, painted white, and adhered to the trailer with double-sided tape. https://www.mcmaster.com/7062T15/ I'm going to do the same, but before mounting the shield, I will cover the lens with amber Lamin-X film (that I bought before getting the trailer but have yet to apply...) It makes a huge difference, and even while still a cool white, it is less objectionable than just covered with Lamin-X like the trailer beside us had. It was great to compare the two, which is what convinced me to do both!

Three of the six Olivers in attendance at the 2024 Ohio Fall Annual Egg Rally, held at Cowan Lake State Park, in southwest Ohio. @Ollie-Haus @csevel Matt & Sue Jones, Deb and me, the folks with the micro-truck at the Oliver Rally, who I've *again* forgotten their name, and an unknown E1 that pulled in but was not found while riding around. Plus a couple who spent about an hour looking at our trailer and talking to Claudia, who have found a 2019 EII and are considering buying it. A fun time, and beautiful weather.