rich.dev

Axle weight rating is 5200lbs/axle, spring weight rating is 1750lbs (x 2 = 3500/axle, hence the 7000lbs GVWR), GVWR of 7000lbs is based on the weakest link, ie the springs

John, if you haven’t already, contact Dexter and request a spec/build sheet of your axle/spring assy. You will have to provide them with your axle serial number. Attached is a copy of my build sheet with all the info on the axles and springs, under “shop order notes and options” you can see my axles are 3” diameter. The axles and springs are supplied from Dexter as an assembly, D52 = 5200lbs capacity and the springs are 1750lbs capacity.

I believe this is it. https://support.olivertraveltrailers.com/portal/en/kb/articles/xantrex-inverter-error-20

Yup just saw that. Here's the link with announcement and contact details if you wish to schedule a service installation. https://mailchi.mp/trumacorp/truma-coolers-winter-camping-and-more-17304172?e=65dcac5d9f ...and response from Truma re cost "The cost of the soft start is $425 plus tax and mobile service calls where applicable"

GJ, I assume the part # for the 2400 pounder springs is probably in a post somewhere in these 16 pages, I'm just too lazy now to read through the 16 pages, do you have the part# please and thanks?

Is this for the Truma or Dometic AC?

John there are many videos on YouTube on how to calibrate it yourself, here’s one.

What is automatic AC transfer switching? All Xantrex Inverter/Chargers incorporate an automatic transfer switch. This switch senses when outside AC Power is present and transfers the load from the inverter to the source of incoming power (shore or generator). The unit also automatically switches from invert mode to charge mode.

Just waiting for the Xantrex 3000 in our 2023 to kick the bucket when I will definitely upgrade to the Victron multiplus II, mainly for the power assist/load sharing functionality of it….explained nicely in this video.

Very nice!👍🏻 I’m also looking at replacing the TV with a 32”. Did you use the existing TV mount, if not can you post a link for the mount and 32” TV, please and thanks? Oh and can the TV still fold backwards for storage?

Looking good John! Do you maybe have a link to the ceramic coating you used?

What is your hull#? We also have a 2023 (Hull# 1386) and unless the previous owner made changes there should be a breaker panel under the street side bed. Here's a pic of it, check the 2 breakers and the fuse under the red cap below "SOLAR (50A, TYPE 2"). As you can see our inverter breaker is in the off position.

Mike, what black spray/paint did you use on your coupler?

We also got the recall notice for our 2022 LE II Hull No. 1291, even though we bought the factory upgrade to the 2-5/16" Bulldog coupler. As you would expect, our coupler reads "12500 lbs." Oliver is just being overinclusive, to be ….and so did we! 😊 @Mike and Carol what black spray/paint did you use on your coupler?

This access point?

I believe there might be a ventilation flaw with the 2023+ Olivers with Isotherm fridge, at least mine. There is no vent at the bottom so cold air can enter at the bottom, pass behind the fridge and warm air can leave at the top. Per the installation instructions, see “ventilation” in last pic. I have emailed Oliver, will post the response. Vent at top of my fridge No vent at bottom of my fridge Installation instructions

Check this post, it is pretty much what prompted the recall. BTW, I find google search better than this forum, this is how I search google....site:olivertraveltrailers.com forum then whatever your searching, ie...."site:olivertraveltrailers.com forum coupler"....in this case I searched coupler...

This is my next step, adding 3M Thinsulate insulation to the inside of the bottom outside hull behind the refrigerator as well the microwave. I have already removed the microwave but haven’t figured out yet how to remove the Isotherm refrigerator. This is what is looks like behind the microwave and Isotherm.

Check with Oliver, they had it on sale a few weeks ago.

Nice, which one did you get Steve? I ordered the KEL-FG-ER-B4 (Part# 42344) with: 1 x 4-hole grommet KT 4/ø5mm grey/part # 39908 1 x 2-hole grommet KT 2/ø5mm grey/part # 41200 1 x 1-hole grommet KT ø2-3mm grey/part # 39934 1 x 1-hole grommet KT ø1-2mm grey/part # 39941 (just in case the 39934 hole is too big for the GPS wire) and 1 x Blank grommet Part # 41251

This is the switch in the cubby above the street side bed

Nope that doesn't make sense, as you can see in my signature we also have a 2023 LE2 and my 12V fridge is on and my batteries are almost always 100% from the solar. I do let the batteirs run down to approx. 50% every now and again just because its good for the batteries. Is the red solar panel on/off switch that's inside the cubby above the street side bed on? Is your inverter on, you should leave it off at the switch on the inverter that's below the street side bed, use the Xantrex remote in your picture to switch it on/off when AC/120V is required (TV, Microwave and other 120V outlets), but in this case it should be off at the remote. I assume your solar panels are working properly, have charged your batteries in the past? Asking because our solar charge controller was wired reverse polarity when we picked up our trailer in 2023.

If I understand correctly, you need help with connecting your 2 x 100W suitcases (one with onboard charge controller) together and then to the external Zamp port. Not sure why Renogy is asking you for your rooftop solar specs. Your 2 x suitcases with one onboard charge controller connected to the externl Zamp port is a solar system on its own. The only relation your suitcase system will have with your rooftop system is they will both charge your batteries WHEN you have your suitcase deployed and connected to the external Zamp port. Renogy should be able to calculate how (series or parallel) and IF the 100W suitcase charge controller can actually handle the 2nd 100W suitcase without charge controller. Also import to know is the limit of your external Zamp port, I believe its 20A. For us to be able to give you some indication if connecting both 100W panels (series or parallel) will work or not, we need more info. Take a picture of the specs on the back of the 2 x 100w Renogy solar panels, as well the specs of the one solar charge controller so we have a better idea of what you have. Then there’s wire size/length between the suitcase/onboard charge controller and batteries, to reduce voltage loss you want the charge controller as close as possible to the batteries. But again, Renogy should be able to help you with this

Barb, I believe you have the Zamp 340W rooftop solar panels, but if you have't already, email Oliver support with your Hull# and I'm pretty sure they will be able to give you the information.

Thanks Jd, I like the idea of mounting the router in the closet where it will not take up usable space, but you also now have me really thinking/considdering doing the TV install, only problem is the Peplink Mobilty 42G does not have the magnet mounting option, so I would have to mount it on the fibreglass cap! I will have delivery of the Max BR1 Pro 5G and antenna in 3-4 wks, so I have some time to mull it over. How is the reception inside your trailer with the router inside the TV? Edit: Bummer, just realised the TV install will not work, we have Blink cameras on the Oliver that we want to be able to monitor when away from it!