jd1923

Where's Ollie? She's back home after a couple trips down to the Phoenix Valley lately. I used to hate the drive, especially towing, the section of I-17 that drops 2000 ft through Black Canyon City AZ. Steep and winding, narrow lanes, rough pothole ridden, sections without shoulders, always construction present, and when there's an accident, you're waiting long without an alternate. When northbound, climbing elevation, note the sign to turn off your A/C when it's hot out. With a 10% climb, there were always cars overheated, parked on the shoulder. After 2+ years of major construction, the first 40 miles heading north on I-17 is now the greatest road is Arizona. It is now a 6-lane divided highway the whole way with new Flex Lanes in the steepest section. The lanes are now full Interstate width with oversized shoulders all the way. I used to often take an extra half hour to drive up the back route, Hwy 89 through Yarnell. Today, we flew up the mountain, towing 65+ MPH the hole way home! It's the main route from Phoenix to Prescott, the Verde Valley, Sedona, up to I-40 at Flagstaff and of course the Grand Canyon. Check it out on your next trip to Arizona! 😎

Yes, I hate to see 120VAC wires hot, just capped off with a wire nut and/or tape. I want them pulled (difficult in this case) or disconnected at the source. If the HWH fuse is accessible, then you're good. I've relocated most of the "under-bed" fuses OTT installs. 😎

Yeah Rob, my head is surely not thinking clearly this week! Yes, all you need is low-amperage wiring since power is provided by LP. Given the Suburban had a 120VAC circuit breaker, I’d still want a 12VDC fuse in the panel for your new HWH! Also pull the original 120VAC wiring from the breaker panel, at least pull the black/hot wire off the breaker, so the other end at the HWH is dead. You’ll have a 120VAC breaker available if you need to add a new circuit for another 120VAC appliance! 😎 Great looking installation! Update us later on your experiences with the Fogatti tankless HWH!

New twist on this thread.. Over the last two weeks, I’ve undergone major sinus surgery after a year+ of severe sinusitis. Went down to Phoenix to see a top ENT in AZ and he worked his magic for 4 hours, OMG! We trailered the Oliver last week to Cave Creek park where the camping is very comfortable, 40 minutes from the outpatient center. Three nights here, two overnights post-surgery, relaxing in the Oliver to recoup! The Oliver truly is a survival vehicle, in fact it’s a portable intensive care unit. I felt as comfortable as being home with everything I needed at arms reach! 😎 The first night post-op was a bear! Then 6 days of agony… We towed down to Cave Creek again, two consecutive weeks. We could have just been here 10 days, but Chris and I had things to do at home. Post-op appoint yesterday, I couldn’t wait (will spare you the details). Everything went well! After a saline rinse, I feel GREAT today! We have another 2 hours here, coffee in the Sun, ‘til checkout time, then we tow 4000 ft up the mountain to return home! We will always have our Oliver for so many life experiences. Our home away from home is a wonderful retreat. I’m sure yours is too! 😎

I was thinking “new DC run” and GJ laid out the circuit logic perfectly! See what fuse and wire gauge Fogatti specs in their documentation. I would locate a spare or empty position in the 12VDC fuse panel to do this right. The last thing you want is more inline fuses under beds! This is a major appliance. Source wiring should start at the main +/- buses with the positive running through the fuse panel. 😎

Rim design really has the stems on the edge, sticking out. Got to be careful with the steel ones too!

Prior owner had installed steel valve stems on the Oliver, always been good. When I upgraded the truck with 3rd Gen Dodge wheels, I mounted with steel stems. Neither stem should fail, unless there is something about the wheel design, how the machined opening for the stem could be an issue cutting into the rubber. Question is, was the stem physically damaged or replaced because for leaking.

I did not actually measure. Height change may be up, <1” or negligible. Tongue weight should not change since distances, the 3-point geometry of the trailer has not changed. Porpoising will be minimized, so that weight up and down on the hitch will be more even.

No room in the tow vehicle? Piano in case, the stand, your chair, cables, etc… In our Oliver, I would not change the dinette except for the firm taller cushions we had upholstered. We enjoy meals together there, including lunches on travel days. I never got into extending the table or counter extensions, needing all the aisle so that two bodies and the dog can pass comfortably. Just enough living space.

Find the right size/depth brackets for your piano case which will take a bit of searching. Use 3M VHB 4950 tape ONLY to mount to the fiberglass. 😎

For sure. Ours reads the same 13.2V now and we’re at 48% SOC. We’ve been parked unplugged for the week, running the fridge on DC. And that much voltage drop? Battery health or wiring? Get rid of that Optifuse breaker, replace it with an ANL fuse, clean/tighten all terminals.

Love your install! You should add Z-brackets on both ends to replace the blocks and then your full-size seat cushions are good as-is! Keep us posted. I take an acoustic guitar on our longer trips and that alone is not so easy. Have a high-end travel case which helps. It lays on the bed when towing. When we sleep it’s standing up at the entrance, or on the back seat of the truck, weather depending. In the bed is a strong folding chair to play anywhere comfortably! 😎

The power grease gun sits nearby on the ground, has a long hose with the lock-n-lube on end. Just attach, hit the power button for a few seconds. Used a manual gun for 40 years, always fighting it!

I did the work myself, so I can tell you, it's rather straightforward. I promise you, and your wife, there's nothing special here, no need for specific Oliver experience since any tandem-axle trailer would take the same installation. Find a local trailer shop with good reviews. Find one that is a Dexter shop and they may give you better pricing on the axles. It's good to have a local trailer shop you have frequented, who you can call on again when needed (e.g. replace the Nev-R Lube bearings in 5 years). Alcan will always be too far away for hands-on help. They make great springs though! Order Alcan springs shipped directly to you. There has been some question on the quality of their wet-bolts in recent Forum threads. I would certainly replace ALL parts, including the EZ Flex, given your 5-year-old trailer. You could buy a new EZ Flex kit with or without the wet bolts. I went with all the Alcan parts, leaf springs, U-bolts, shackles and wet-bolts (they're fine), and also ordered two (2) of each of these parts for the centers (yes, ALL new parts): https://www.etrailer.com/Trailer-Suspension-Parts/Dexter/013-144-03.html https://www.etrailer.com/Trailer-Suspension-Parts/TruRyde/TRFA73Z916DLNZ.html You have the right idea! You'll feel much better leaving home READY for your cross-country trip! I always get my work done at home. My sole purpose for camping in our Oliver is to go somewhere, just anywhere, forcing me NOT to work. You won't find me under our trailer on some gravel lot! 😎

Yes, you could. I just wanted the security of the larger ball. The referenced model is the direct replacement! It’s critical to line up/drill the bolt holes accurately, but that’s it. Chapter 11 surprising, but they did put 7K labels on one or more 5K couplers. One failed on an Oliver. Maybe the lawyers got them, too bad.

Replace your wet-bolt grease fitting with 45s. Yours are likely M6x1mm threads (Alcan 1/4"-20): https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08R8GYYYM/?th=1 Then do yourself a BIG favor and invest in a power grease gun and a LockNLube coupler: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00H7LPKKU/?th=1

Ditch the Andersen and all 2" hitch hardware. Replace the old with a 2 5/16" Bulldog coupler and use whatever you need on the tow vehicle to get a 2 5/16" ball at the correct height. I installed this product: https://www.bulldogproducts.net/product/028462_square-rectangular-mount-coupler

Hopefully only the latter. The BMS should be efficient, but movement of high amperage causes heat within its design. When I removed our battery tray, it gave our batteries a lot more headroom. How much clearance do you have above your batteries? Don't leave that door open too long, or those expensive items may walk! I have ours locked down double and only open the door to remove ground when doing an electrical mod.

You’d be a first! I’ve have added 2 temp-activated exhaust fans, behind our absorption fridge and in the basement cavity for the inverter. But for the battery bay, I closed up the vent holes that were designed for lead acid venting and added insulation to the door, to close the air, minimize collection of road dust. Many of us have done this (two examples shown in pictures above). Uncertain the specs of other brands, but the Epoch Essentials batteries many of us have installed, will supply 200A continuous, in or out as designed, without overheating and 400A Max Amps capacity. Most we used camping this week was -120A with the fridge, the Chill Cube A/C and electric HWH all running on battery/inverter. We’re camping again this Sun-Mon again, so besides these 120V appliances, I’ll boil water in our electric kettle. Power them all on at once should hit or exceed the 200A Continuous Rating. The Victron MP2 can also exceed its 3KVA rating, found it up at 4.5K for a spell when once I turned on the power-hungry Dometic P2 A/C (thank Goodness that’s gone) not realizing the electric HWH was heating! Good thing I have a back-up 400A ANL fuse for the Victron! I’ll test and post the app screen prints that lists 3 internal temps per our 3x 300 Ah batteries! I expect to feel a cool cabin, hot water at the tap, a pot of boiled water for coffee and battery and inverter temps within spec! We’ll see… 😎

If you live south, and have the Dometic Penguin II A/C installed, the Oliver is also merely a 3- season camper! Any season is good when the A/C is OFF! 🤣 First real trial of our Furrion Chill Cube, camping in the Phoenix Valley this week. We turned it on yesterday at 3 PM, been running since. In start-up it pulled 50A on 12VDC. Was down to pulling only 16A, 40 min later. Overnight it was whisper quiet using very low amps. I estimate <25A per hour daily average. Like our friend @FloraFauna, we’re not going on any winter survival trips! This 3-day trip, we ran the A/C, our Suburban HWH (largest power draw -120A) and the Dometic fridge ALL on battery! Still have 50% SOC as we’re breaking camp today. 😎 Yesterday the Victron shunt read 67% SOC. I looked at Chris asking, “you know what that means?” 67% of 900 Ah is equal to 100% SOC when we had our 600 Ah battery bank! Those of you who recently upgraded 300 Ah Battleborn to 600 Ah Epoch, next time you read 50% SOC on the shunt, just smile knowing that was your 100% in years past! So cool…

Not just the older trailers! @Tom and Doreen own a 2023! Hope you have Alcan Springs on all fours now! 😎

This is all you need. Figured out where you want the wet bolt opening. Weld a little 1/8” x 1:4” x 1” tab perpendicular to the shackle to the inside of the bolt head. Install the bolt in position and only the nut only should spin when torquing. I’ll turn mine some while greasing, prior to torquing maintenance. Mine are all still clean and straight. My thought is Ken’s got that way from less torque. They would not bend if held square. As often as I’m doing regular maintenance, I’m not going to worry. If they look bad years later, I’ll buy a new MOR-Ryde HD shackle set and replace them. 😎 https://shopmorryde.com/products/heavy-duty-shackle-kit

You got this right! Dan is new here, but there are 20-some failures written up on our Forum posts. When you read the title of this thread, I should have more posts than you. Since I've actually installed "Made in USA leaf springs" and wrote posts about my installation, maintenance and performance observations! 🤣

I agree. I went with lower torque numbers. Instead of the Alcan recommended 65 ft-lb on the EZ Flex and 80 on the ends, I went 55/65. Of course the U-bolts must be 90 as specified. The Alcan shackles and wet-bolts are not the quality of their leaf springs. I believe they cut the shackles and likely outsource the bolts. Ken’s @mountainoliver shackles have already bent some, bolt holes buggered. He made new shackles in his machine shop, drilled tighter fitting holes. If I were to do this again, I’d certainly buy the Alcan 5-leaf pack springs, but buy a full new HD EZ Flex kit, including shackles and wet-bolts. I had to get new EZ Flex centers anyway which should be replaced if more than a few years old (the center bushings will wear off angle due to the design).

Not good! We camped Monday and ran the fridge and hot water heater together (-120A) for 30 min, until the water was hot. Then turned on the A/C on all afternoon, not plugged in, all on inverter. Temp on the Victron inverter rose to 90F, in its closed space, well within the 104F warning . I installed a basement exhaust fan, yet rarely use it. The Epoch app had been acting up, so I manually tested voltage with a multimeter. It read 12.9V, certainly a very good number considering the -120A load of the HWH. Battery tops and 4/0 wiring were all cold to the touch. I sealed the vents in our battery bay to keep dirt out. IMHO, call Lithionics, fix the issue vs. venting heat away that should not accumulating!