jd1923

Just from memory I believe the first wheel in line is the front streetside wheel. No, the <1" DIA cable is the 10/3 shore power cable coming from the front generator connection. The "Progressive Dynamics: Automatic Transfer Relay 5100 Series" switches between the 2 shore connections, front or streetside, to the one that is live. Your 7-wire trailer cable likely enters the front of your Oliver hull right next to the 10/3 shore power cable. If you get your head under where the LP tanks are mounted you could see the entry points.

Yes, this means brake wiring at all 4 wheels are good. And given you have tested for brake voltage at the rear of the truck or same day the truck pulled the airstream brakes working, you have an open circuit between the 7-blade plug on the Oliver and the first wheel.

Take a close-up pic of the 7-blade plug on your Oliver. Have you used dielectric grease? We have that iron-oxide dirt out here in the desert. I wonder when this issue happened for you. Why was it working last year but not now. What has changed? I believe power to the brakes at the wheels comes to the first wheel (front-streetside?) and then they are daisy-chained, front to back and down each axle to get to the curbside. I may be wrong as this is from memory from two years ago when I replaced wheel bearing and all the electrical crimp parts. If this is true, to have NO brakes, there must be an open before the first wheel. If the wire down the axle is bad (open) it would affect only one wheel. I'm also opposed to the camp that has replaced the interior axle wire to one zip-tied behind the axle. Now you have annual zip-tie maintenance and the chance of the wire being damaged by highway or offroad debris. I would use the old axle wire to pull a new one that is a step heavier AWG and one with heavy water-proof insulation like wire rated for burial purposes.

The Pioneer is also advertised "On sale!" $1,628 - $1,275 = $353 for years 2-3 warranty? Yeah, that would not be me. Once when I was young, I paid for extended warranty. Only once and we have saved tens of thousands $$,$$$ through the years! 🤣 Extremely low likelihood of failure in years 2-3 when a machine does not fail in the first year. https://www.qualitygurus.com/the-bathtub-curve-in-reliability/ I just have to decide now vs. later and would pick best price regardless of warranty. Will they get more or less expensive? Will a better model come out in the new year? I would have purchased the Atmos 2 years ago, if we still lived in FL or TX! The Turbro Greenland and Pioneer seem to be the same. However, the Pioneer outdoor unit is 4 LBS heavier. Turbro claims heat pump works down to 19F and Pioneer 28F. This one is likely just a website content error, but which is correct advertising?

Wish this had been true for WY and CO during June this year! 🤣

There are others here that know way more than me re electrical code and insurance regulations… My thinking, just based in logic, is the brake system is not fused for safety reasons! 🤣

Yes, as our friend @John Dorrer stated you already have the D52 axles. When the label states D52, you have the 5200 LB axles. Reason it states 3500 LBS is the factory build plan called for 3500 LB leaf springs. Just send Alcan your axle label picture and they will know your axles are A+ and with the Alcan leaf spring upgrade you’re good to go. Lucky you! 🤣

I have an itchy finger on biting the Turbo Greenland deal, but we do not need A/C for most of our travels. My wife Chris and I plan to watch YouTubes on this product tonight, hoping there are new ones but if you have not watched one yet, here is a goody. Best wishes, JD

SALE PRICE UPDATE!!! This inverter model is now down to $1275 plus tax with a $1499 sales price and 15% promo code. Free shipping and with AZ sales tax less than $1400 OTD! (And China tariffs are still in question.) The comparable Pioneer model is priced much higher. Will the Greenland be quiet enough? Is the power consumption low enough to run on LiFePO4 batteries? Time to pull the trigger? https://www.turbro.com/products/greenland-13500-btu-inverter-rv-air-conditioner-with-heat-pump

That's the real trick! You need to run two +/- 6 AWG cables (read from their spec) from the Oliver basement up to the rooftop. This unit also has an external power cord, so you would need to create a new waterproof entry for that to the rear of the 14x14" opening. You should talk to OTT for your hull and see what they say. I do a lot of mods and would not consider this. We will stay with 120VAC to reuse the 12 AWG 120VAC wiring. With all the turns and patches of insulation between hulls, I would think it would be extremely difficult to use the existing wiring to pull two new cables that would be somewhat thicker. This inverter model (not sure it's quiet enough, but very good on battery Ah) is now down to $1275 plus tax with a lower sales price and 15% promo code: https://www.turbro.com/products/greenland-13500-btu-inverter-rv-air-conditioner-with-heat-pump

Thanks Steve! Always look for issue with your most recent change.

Forum member near 5 years, now 1 post, no signature...

So when did OTT stop using ABS sewer pipe for PVC? Fancy! 🤣

Why just Texas? Dallas to Hohenwald 615 miles Miami to Hohenwald 960 miles Boston to Hohenwald 1180 miles Phoenix to Hohenwald 1590 miles Seattle to Hohenwald 2410 miles Personally, I believe OTT should have just left things alone and continued to retail their own trailers from their special factory location! 😂 Glad our hull is well beyond warranty years. I generally buy used and prefer to pay when we need work or do it myself. Warranty claims are a true pain as has been witnessed in many Oliver Forum threads. I talked to a Sales Manager here at Blue Compass RV, “now in 34 states.” This company bought out three locations of Affinity RV in our Prescott and surrounding valley areas that had been here for decades. He said, "You can't make money selling Olivers!" Not worth carrying the inventory for such a niche trailer when for every Oliver we can sell 10 Alliance, Forest River, Grand Design... and Winnebagos. Lots of Toy-haulers sold in the SW too! But he was trying to get me to trade in my Oliver on a fifth wheel, while I was dumping tanks at their location (a 35-ft 3 axle beast, no way)! There are likely more RV dealers in Phoenix and Mesa, across the desert valley down to Yuma AZ than any other market in the country. OTT has not been able to get one AZ-based dealer to carry their product.

Or the Ford issue that @Steph and Dud B cited. First thing to try is to test for voltage at the Ford F350 TV 7-blade connecter. Jump the BLUE and WHITE wires with a test light or meter while a friend applies the brake pedal then releases, on and off. @BoondockingAirstream you don't need another trailer. If it shows voltage, then test for amperage through the blue when connected. I believe @Geronimo John wrote that brakes at each wheel should draw 2-4A, so at the main harness it should show 4x this number when all 4 brakes are working. If you have 12VDC at the hitch and no amperage draw downstream to the trailer, then you have an open circuit along the path to the wheels. No brakes at all likely means your issue is not wiring at individual wheels or in the axles. It would be between the TT 7-blade connector and where it's connected to the first wheel in line.

Pilgrimage to the Mothership! 🤣

Good thought, If just the tab is missing you're done in 2 minutes!

This item is on my Christmas list! It costs the most meaning it's likely the best, smaller size, max power! 🤣

Groovy is a matter of opinion! 🤣 🤣 🤣

🤣 🤣 🤣 Yeah, but the brakes should work given power from ANY brake controller! Voltage and correct amperage draw at the wheels?

Yep, it could be broken or folded back and the should be two of them. They are designed to spread out to hold when tightening the mounting screws. If broken, it’s a $2 HW store part. You would need to rewire the outlet replacing the box. First open the “outlet” breaker or the main 30A breaker in your 120VAC power panel.

This 3/4" impact has an insane amount of torque, at "1900 ft-lbs of breakaway torque." and you would need the 3/4" to 1/2" reducer most of the time to turn nuts and bolts 1" or less which includes TT and TV lug-nuts. This 1/2" model would be better for everyday use. A little more expensive, but smaller, 1.5 lbs. lighter and breakaway torque spec'd at 1750 lb-ft. Still a beast! https://www.homedepot.com/p/DEWALT-20V-1-2-in-High-Torque-Impact-Wrench-Tool-Only-DCF961B/328393371 Or you could save $38 and go another 1.25 lbs. lighter and go with this very capable model with breakaway torque spec'd at 1400 lb-ft. https://www.homedepot.com/p/DEWALT-20V-MAX-Cordless-1-2-in-Impact-Wrench-Tool-Only-DCF900B/317991357 Either model would be preferred by most of us vs. the 3/4" beast! I have a 3/4" to 1/2" reducer for when I need sockets >1" like the 1 1/4" socket shown above required for the bearing press. The 3/4" breaker bar shown removes wheel lug-nuts easily or just put the weight of your foot on it to get it started! 🤣 However, not all 1/2" models have the required torque. Check the torque specs. I purchased one years ago, when they were not as strong as some today. It could pull lug-nuts off 12mm or 1/2" studs torqued to 120 lb-ft but it would not budge lug-nuts on a 2500 series truck with 14mm or 9/16" studs torqued to 140-150 lb-ft. I returned it after it failed to loosen a lug on my Dodge Ram. Ever since I've used my pneumatic 1/2" impact in the workshop and work to keep our vehicles well maintained so not to breakdown on the road, having hand tools for this rare case! I work on the TT and TV too much at home and thankfully we did over 50 days of travel in the last 3 months and all my tools stayed in the bottom of the TV toolbox! 😂

CRM, now I believe you are correct in your thinking. Please let the misses know I approve. Get the friggin' 3/4 impact! 🤣 (Do note the press instructions show using an impact)! Chris picked up the Maddox kit today (had to get it while my 15% coupon was running) and needed a shopping cart to carry it away! The HUGE box measures 17x15x4" and weighs near 20 LBS. No way I'm carrying this kit with me, but our dear friend @ScubaRx would likely store it right next to his battery-powered grease gun and another 800 LBS of tools onboard (love you Steve)! The first pic shows part of the installation instructions. In my professional opinion they show the 'bushing' in the wrong direction, TBD. Second pic shows the tools I would bring, given I have guessed the right bushing/sleeve sizes. The instructions also have an application guide which lists the 2001-2010 PT Cruiser! Holding the drum will not be an issue, but holding both sides of the press may be! the bolt is 7/8" DIA with heads of 1 1/4" on both sides. It would be great if you could torque down the wide nut and the bolt would stay, but you should have both sides held and the drum would not turn anyway. Sitting flat on the truck tailgate may not work, TBD. How many of you have the automotive tools I have in the toolbox (1 1/4" socket and 3/4" breaker bar and 1 1/4" wrench)? Not many, but this will be my toolkit, after testing of course that I have the complete and correct set of tools. Don't forget the grease and the Go-Jo hand soap that's always packed in our rig! 🤣

Minimize the use of Construction Glue, but OK as a repair when needed. Mounting a styrofoam sheet to a wall to hold it temporarily in place until I screw down the paneling to finish. This was the original purpose! Many over-use glue and sealants for lack of better solutions. The worse part is having to remove something you’ve glued down! 🤣

We started doing this on our last trip when it got to mid 90s up north unexpectedly for too many days. Great results! Please see my most recent post on our DC-DC Charger mod thread --