jd1923

do any repair or simple replacement part. Given it’s a quality product, though have read of several Truma issues in many threads here. Those of you who have service centers do installations and service work for you, OK… Not me, my trailer my install. What happens when you have no AC or no HWH 600 miles and 5 weeks out on the service calendar of an Authorized Truma Service Center? Nothing, is the answer. Your consolation is it’s not Dometic cr@p. Good luck. 🤣

On a 1/4 turn valve it should turn 90 degrees by hand, w/o requiring pliers. If you are sure you are in the 90-degree range, use your pliers and move it hard and quickly back and forth, stop to stop. There could be sediment in there. If you cannot free it up nicely, replace it with a higher quality valve. Or be removing the valve maybe it can be cleaned up inside. Hope this helps!

So true, when used with ample water per flush and not stored with solids. When you flush the back, it should be refilled a couple times until the drain water is clear. If you are CERTAIN the valve is open, yes this is the next step, YUK. I would try connecting the black drain at a dump station and snake from the toilet down. This is less messy, but you need professional snake tools to push through solids make the 90 and locate the 3" hole at the bottom back of the tank. Try calling local septic companies! And before they refuse this kind of job, offer to pay a premium for their help. They have the tools. They also have drain hoses that produce suction. Sorry @NomadLife for your cr@ppy situation.

This shelf with magnet set for mounting came to about $95 total. We store it upside down in the attic (fits nicely) when watching TV and sleeping. Towing it can be on or off. Very well-made product, powder coat will not scratch easily. Amazon.com: DIY CARTEL Made in USA Linear Floating Shelf - USA Manufactured Steel - Industrial Heavy Duty Metal Wall Mounted Modern Farmhouse Rustic Designed Shelf (24-in X 8-in Powder Coated White) : Home & Kitchen The 6 magnets mounted with 3M VHB 4950 provide a strong mount. The aluminum bar, also taped in place, keeps the shelf from sliding down the magnets. When locked firmly in place an abrupt snap of the outside edge will dismount the shelf for storage. Chris places a towel just under it to protect the bedding to the right. Could not cook a decent breakfast without it! 😂

On a similar theme I installed these shelfs on both sides. Wanted the area behind for a bolster and pillow. These are out of the way of all movement and everything you need is right in front of you. Also wanted room for a book and must have a drink or water bottle. They have worked out great! The TV remote even stays put sitting on the shelf when towing. A Bedside Convenience Shelf and Cupholder - Ollie Modifications - Oliver Owner Forums (olivertraveltrailers.com)

Nothing wrong with Cooper. Many have them here for TV and TT. We have them on our GX, the AT model and they don’t pick up stones. Must say I like the tread on these Wildpeaks, 5 ribs 4 grooves should track nicely. Will give them a good look next time we need tires. Thx

@csevel You’re welcome Claudia! I’m just happy I came up with the idea, was able to help, and being up after midnight is the usual case for me. The point was getting you on the road today. Personally, I’m not much for suggested maintenance procedures. I work mine my way and certainly have used my “thinga-ma-giggy” in several RVs always at 40+ PSI. Hate the pink stuff, always blow air. BTW, you can always run air pressure up to the rating of your water pump PSI. My upgraded water pump is variable speed at 65 PSI, 10 over OEM. Many would worry, but I prefer its performance and it has served us well. Best wishes! Have a great trip, post pics! 🤣

Given you have no cold water to the front of the trailer, the air cannot hurt, hopefully help. With air applied, I would push the toilet pedal first since you already cleaned that filter and can again. Then try the bathroom sink. Good to try vinegar and keep the HWH valve shut for that and the compressed air. Found this plumbing diagram (newer than your hull and mine since it shows Truma HWH). Appears there is one cold line going to the front and somehow, who knows how, this is blocked. It shows one side of one T-fitting goes to the front and yours must be blocked there or along the path to the front. I've never heard of this before either. Good luck!

If you do not have a high volume shop compressor, make a 1/4” air to 3/4” hose fitting like this with hardware store parts (Walmart, TSC, etc) and run your trailer by the shop where you just spent $$$ on tires and borrow their air line. You have something blocking the main water line going to the front of you Oliver. Push to 80 PSI if you have to! PEX IS rated to 100 PSI. Best wishes, Godspeed and prayers for your quick departure. JD

Your hot water is working everywhere, so don’t work any hot water maintenance. Do you have a shop aid compressor? I would connect air to the city inlet at 50-60 PSI and blow air through the cold water lines at all 4 outlets on and off. You need to make a tool like this:

Also, turn your HWH bypass on and off a few times while running hot and cold through the kitchen sink. Is the kitchen sink getting cold water?

@csevel new tires and now this, OMG bummer. Never heard of such! What do you get in the outdoor shower? Run this hot n cold. Are your valves for Boondocking/winterizing in correct position? Let us know re the outdoor shower, whether it has cold, or just hot like the others.

Thank you, and that’s what makes you a great installer! I worked on 3 mods on our Oliver this week, with what was just “laying around.” Love it! GB 🤣

@rideadeuce Mike can you measure length and ID? and what material did you use for the mounting block?

One heck of a “shack!”

Been working in the Oliver afternoons, shore power connected with AC on. Loud as a diesel truck and on-n-off it starts singing. Must be fan bearing going. Will replace with any non-Dometic model before travel this fall. It is and sounds like an albatross! I would not spend a penny on it.

I purchased this model, waterproof with sealed wiring: https://a.co/d/aEvZpg2 Wire to battery final ground. Download VictronConnect App to read battery SOC and +/- Amps.

Did the rubber bases fit into the metal frame on your Oliver! Mine would not until I cut about 1/8” off to square the back edge. While traveling I got center position warnings on and off. Thinking one side, the side I was using, was moving. I’ll know more when I get around to filling the tank.

No sorry, not at all! We came home from 2 1/2 weeks to Utah and it was reading OK along the way and got down to 16%. Now it reads 51%! What-the! The 16% reading is likely closer, will only know when I fill, since a 30 lb tank fills at 6.8 gallons. During this first trip with Mopeka sensors, it often had a warning, re positioning of center. The Mopeka is a flat sensor disk mounted to the round bottom LP tank, go figure. When I fill the tank, I will carefully cut a 1/4” bead of VHB tape around the perimeter of the Mopeka sensor to mount it securely, while it has a magnet. Next time, I would save the $120, since it is so easy to use one tank at a time with the directional valve. However, if you want all the toys go for it. Taped into position (do this initially) it should perform. 😂

Honestly, you cannot have enough pressure, meaning load carrying capacity in a second axle/tire to cover the GTWR load upon tire failure (unless you want 80 PSI, the reason why legal depts of RV manufactures suggest this crazy number on your trailer sticker). Either you have muscle memory from 30-40 years or more driving old trucks and towing dozens of cargo and flatbed trailers, or you need to rely on a TPMS (check it often). Yes, redundancy is one of the key factors in mitigating risk. For this reason, the idea of an Elite I (a single axle trailer) is not for me. Having owned horse trailers, farm stock trailers, car haulers, cargo and flatbed trailers, certainly a dozen trailers over a lifetime, and by my choice they are ALL dual-axle trailers. I've had blowouts on desert roads at 70 MPH. The tire tread rips the fender off a car-hauler. I realize it in milliseconds and (btw don't hit the brakes) coast nicely to the shoulder. Run you tire pressure per the load charts and add 5 PSI for a safety of margin. Additional PSI will cause your belongings to suffer, cause your leaf springs to failure (see the threads here) and just more bad stuff! Trust me (and many others here with considerable lifetime experience).

Awesome Mike! I don't have Victron Comms or the BMV712, just a few sensors here and there. This is my Control Dashboard. 🤣

Great price indeed! Do that again in a heartbeat! Our Oliver was delivered used with 80 PSI! I dropped immediately to 60, not knowing our weight. Then lower after reading more info here and weighing the Oliver and TV.

Look at your table above, at 45 PSI the tire holds 1790 LBS x 4 = 7,160 LBS. Our Oliver ready to camp under 6600 LBS, so we could be at 40 PSI, but since that is the lowest number on the chart, I bump it up to 45 PSI. Ran my tires at 46 last time I checked since they were all just a hair above that number. @John E Davies ran his Mouse at 42 PSI for years which you can see in his posts. If you have upgraded to 5200 LB axles and higher rated leaf springs and carry over 8000 LBS total, then 55 PSI would be the right number. The right pressure for the load should not create excessive heat.

Actually, the number 225 in 225/75R16 is metric, meaning 225 mm. The 75 means the profile (height) is 75% of the width on a 16" rim. Standard sizes are all in inches and are today less common ever since Michelin came to the US in the 80s. With some research I found out that Michelin has created a new tire category. This C tire (Commercial) is more expensive than their LT, has a higher load rating (not needed for the EII 7000 GTWR) and is not snow rated (also not necessary for a trailer). Question, is it worth $54 plus tax more per tire? No, the LT model on our Oliver is fine for almost $240 less. Turns out Michelin has created a new tire category; I had not seen before. The following copied from Tyre markings explained: How to read a tyre? | MICHELIN P: Passenger Car LT: Light Truck C : Van commercial tyre XL, HL or Reinforced : Tyres with a higher load capacity... T: Temporary (spare wheels)

These same tires were mounted by a prior owner 3 years ago on ours. They are a commercial grade Michelin and don't look like they have worn one bit on ours. Is there a LT missing in from of this tire size? Do they make this brand in passenger car tires? I see the 'C' likely meaning Load C tires with is a LT load rating. You do not want P225/75R16 tires, but given these are LT225/... tires Load C is just fine for 7000 GTWR on 4 tires, and would produce a softer ride than Load Range E, less bounce on interior storage, etc. Load C LT tires have 1-2 less ply and are often marked with 54 PSI max vs. the 80 PSI of load E. 54 PSI MAX is more than enough as for 7000 GTWR, 45 PSI is the correct PSI (check the load table above).