jd1923

Thanks GJ, for your well-written simple instructions. My question is, what about vinegar? I read here in a few posts to also bypass the (Suburban) HWH. Reading posts on other sites and YouTube videos show descaling the HWH with vinegar (but yes, bypass the HWH when sanitizing with bleach). What do y'all think?

Planning to soon descale the water lines with vinegar and after that is good and rinsed, I will sanitize the lines with a bleach solution - WARNING!!! Just realized you CANNOT have Pine-Sol in the black and gray tanks when working these procedures! Pine-Sol contains glycolic acid, when mixed with bleach will create chlorine gas, which is immediately lethal. Same reason we do not mix bleach and vinegar. Pine-Sol plus vinegar is not as bad, as they contain two similar acids. Pine-Sol company states specifically not to mix there cleaner with any others.

Thank you @Galway Girl. It may be hard to capture another picture, though a good picture of the connections would be great! Can anyone explain the OEM install? Are the incoming wires coming from the output of the PD5100? (The PD5100 is the shore power ATS.) Does the outgoing cable feed the PD4000 Power Control Center (containing the 120V circuit breakers)? Newer units may have newer PD model numbers, but all would have an ATS (automatic transfer switch) and a 120V AC power panel. This would be my guess, if I were to install this, but wondering how OTT does it at the factory?

Found an issue with our fresh tank. Even though I have drained it twice to date (since our June purchase), this week it would not drain. The trailer is also not quite level. So, I filled the fresh tank, leaving the drain valve open and water came out of the overflow, and not the drain. 🙃 I understand OTT suggests blowing air up the drain opening. I can try that. I have to cut the PEX to replace the drain valve with a simple motorized valve. It would sure be good to have the tank drained first. Any other ideas?

The blue one is US Solid brand, and the two 3-way valves are HSH-Flo brand. All have 1/2" NPT threads, so all good there. I wasn't thinking China brass still has lead, though that makes sense. These appear to be modern brass in color, but their ad does not specify. The amount of exposed brass is minimal once threaded in place, and we don't drink RV fresh tank water anyway. The internals include a SS ball valve with a PVC bushing and sleeve. Perhaps we should have gotten the SS model for $123 ea vs. these for $65 ea? The Misol with the BPT threads are cheaper brass and under $30 ea. All of these valves claim no power consumption when not in use, but I thought why not have the 12VDC+ feed open, when not in use, and the momentary switches facilitate this. I will install all switches where the down position is the default position for what OTT calls normal camping position. Truly love your onboard compressor installation! So convenient having air right at the tires. I will have onboard air on our TV soon, which is a component of an exhaust brake system. Like you, I have never truly winterized, can't see that chemical in the lines, "safe" or not, and the weather here is also mild. We blow out our lines prior to any consistent overnight extreme lows. When I was on the Bigfoot forum, a knowledgeable long-time member from Calgary BC only used air to blow out his lines. No issues whatsoever up in that extreme cold, where their daytime highs are often colder than our overnight lows! We were born and raised in Chicago. Lived south for 24 years now, and we're never living real winter weather again. I want the two 3-way valves to be switched independently so that I can use the winterization mode to draw vinegar to the faucets to descale the lines and after rinsing thoroughly, add bleach water to sanitize the lines. Why not, for the cost of an extra DPDT switch? (package of 3 for $14)

Got some plumbing done today. Decided a mounting board was unnecessary and instead connected the accumulators on an old bracket I had, everything wrapped in pipe foam. It should sit nicely on the interior wheel well (see build pic). Yes @Ronbrink just 4 hose clamps, found some automotive compression clamps that fit tight, too bad I didn't have 4. You want a few feet of soft hose by the pump and accumulators so that it runs quieter. I also spent an hour at Depot, figuring out their PEX and SharkBite supplies! I'm thinking some of these will help with the motorized valve installation: SharkBite 1/2 in. Push-to-Connect x MIP Brass 90-Degree Elbow Fitting U280LFA - The Home Depot

I finally understand what Steve was saying here. I purchased the wrong switches! The DPDT switch wired in a cross-pattern (must have 6 leads), allows for switching the +/- leads to the motor. After you run the motor one direction, switch the other way to reverse polarity and the motor runs backwards. I will need two DPDT switches though. One is enough is all you want to do is switch from pulling from the fresh tanks while running to the faucets (normal dry-camping position), then switch both valves at once, to pull from the rear port and push to the tank (for boondocking, fresh tank fill). One DPDT switch will do this. But I will install one DPDT switch on each valve motor to achieve the third position, for winterizing (or to push sanitizer to the faucets). I decided on a momentary DPDT switch: TWTADE 3 Pcs Momentary Heavy Duty Rocker Toggle Switch 6 Pin 3 Position (ON)-OFF-(ON) DPDT 16A 250VAC Spade Terminal Metal Boat Switch With Waterproof Boat Cap And 6.3mm Terminal Wires TEN-223MZX-B223: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific This switch rests in the middle (open/disconnected) position. Hold it up for 5 seconds to set the valve one way, then hold it down for 5 seconds to turn the motor and valve the other way. With the momentary DPDT switch, the center fallback position makes it that there is no current draw at the motorized switches when not in use. You would want to do this differently if you wanted to utilize the LED light features of these 5-wire motorized ball valves, but I decided no lights, Keep It Simple Silly (KISS)! Was ready to wire up the valves today, but the new switches will get here Friday after Thanksgiving.

We're glad solar and 2000W inverter was factory installed by OTT in our hull. We likely would not have bought our older used Oliver without it. Like Seadawg, we had a 1000W inverter before (for us, in a previous RV). We used it for 1-2 years (prior to me installing an integrated 2KW unit). It ran my entire large-screen A/V system and coffee in the morning, an 1100W coffee pot or other small appliance, multiple computer adapters, all while watching the morning news). These are cheap and relatively easy to install, if just wired to 1-2 dedicated 120V outlets. I believe mine had 4GA battery cables only 3-4 FT long. You could install one under the dinette rear seat, short cable run to the batteries. It would be easy to run an outlet under the table for a coffee pot or toaster. It's right there on the other wall! A second run to the rear attic is not as simple, but for an experienced installer it would take 30 minutes. For us, I would build in a 3KW inverter system and upgrade the A/C too, but this could be done quickly for a few hundred dollars. Nobody likes running generators. Like SeaDawg wrote, "Much depends on your camping style, and your battery power." 🙂

Given hulls 113 and 797 have these, from 2016 to 2021, that's a lot of Olivers. Later they went to dual inline valves to achieve 3-way functionality. Having these restrictions on BOTH the pull and push side of this 3 GPM water pump, is likely the biggest reason for getting less than half the stated flow rate. I would suggest you time filling a gallon water bottle at both faucets. 48 seconds was my result, on both after 2 trials each, which calculates to 1.25 GPM. The electric 3-way valves I am using have near 1/2" openings (12mm). However, they are not going to be easy to install for two reasons. First OTT does not mount their valves, as one was dangling airborne and the other was wrapped in foam, leaning against the inner wheel well! The motorized valves are somewhat heavier and should be mounted. Also, this model motorized 3-way valves does not have a straight-through position. One position is 90 left and supply 12V+ and the other position is 90 degrees right. This will take some realignment of the PEX connecting the two valves. Or I believe a 90-degree fitting on each valve should work. More on this later...

Still want a reply from @ScubaRx on the electrical switches... Made some headway today. Anybody, yes ANYBODY who has an older Oliver with these 3-way brass water valves MUST change out these valves, even if you do not want to motorize or upgrade! I cannot believe OTT installed these valves! The opening in only 1/4" WT*! See pic, this is crazy! What were they thinking? The OEM water pump is 3 GPM. I measured water flow at the kitchen sink and the shower, cold side came in at 48 seconds to fill a gallon container. That's 1.25 GPM down from 3 at the pump due to multiple restrictions along the path! OMG! 🤣

First, I thought I would need only one DPDT switch. Though I purchased a set of 3 anyway. I also purchased one SPDT switch to activate the simple open/close ball valve for the fresh tank drain. There are Three (3) water valve configurations, the normal setting to 1) pump from the fresh tank, 2) the winterizing setting to bypass the fresh tank and push to faucets, and 3) the boondocking setting to draw water from an auxiliary tank to the fresh tank. I'm thinking I would need to wire 2 DPDT switches to switch each 3-way ball valve independently, to work all three combinations. Steve, perhaps you do not use the winterizing combination? Am I thinking this correctly? I will not add RV antifreeze ever, instead will blow out the lines with air, even though OTT does not recommend this practice in their video. I will however use the winterization mode to descale lines and faucets with vinegar and sterilize lines with bleach (not at the same time of course).

Been thinking about this for a while, reading posts, and collecting parts. So, this is what I'm thinking (see pic). The OEM water pump is a basic model, at 55 PSI (not bad) and 3 GPM (pretty bad). I had the same model in our sold Bigfoot class-C, which I replaced as well. Now I will have 2 basic back-up water pumps! Those of you with newer models have an accumulator, older hulls did not. When done, we will NEVER lift a mattress to switch a water valve. Some who know me, know that I already have a 35-gallon water tank mounted to my truck. We love our water out here, in the SW, where it is scarce! I will increase the PSI a little to 60 and add volume 5 GPM (huge), also addind dual .75L water accumulators. Some may get worried re manufacturer specs, although design tolerances have considerable room, often up to 50%. I will add 9% more PSI and PEX is rated to 160 PSI (although not all the fittings are). We run our home at 60 PSI water pressure. Take a look! Please let me know what you think. I'm tearing old parts out asap tomorrow! 😋

Watched the OU video on the EMS system. Noted a post where @John E Davies mentioned the display may be mounted under by inverter. My 2016 hull #113 does not seem to have one. No display in the rear attic and none to be found. I can see the incoming power going directly to the PD5100 without EMS before or after. Thinking I should install one. I'm not the guy who plugs in external devices and blue water filters at the camp site! Thinking I should install this one correctly. Is this what OTT installs? Amazon.com: Progressive Industries RV Surge Protector 30 Amp with Electrical Management System, Hardwired with Remote Display, EMS-HW30C : Automotive I'll bet @Scuba Steve knows the history here or perhaps @topgun2, since Bill's Oliver and mine are cousins (hulls 113 and 117). I imagine the EMS needs to be installed near first in line, just after the PD 5100 which switches between the two built-in shore power sources. Let me know. Thx

Thanks JD, this is super helpful! I get it now. History of my Oliver must have had a lot of extremely hard salty SW desert water (like the water at Quartzite AZ). Installing a new anode and bi-annual rinsing of the HWH should at least keep the scale at bay. Map of water hardness in the United States | U.S. Geological Survey (usgs.gov) Mountain water where we live is up to 7 grains/gallon and we enjoy our water at home, filtered for drinking only. On the map you can see the high country of AZ is in the white and blue zones, with the desert SW in the RED zone, which is where we all enjoy our winter camping. As kids, we lived in northern IL (when not yet on Lake Michigan water) where well water was up to 25 grains. I could never stand the never-rinsed feel of softened water, though perhaps the technology is better today. I remember the heavy bags of salt were useful during winter weather for added weight in our RWD vehicles of the day! You can see on the map that most of that area is also in the RED zone. Go to Chicago area now, wash your face and this 'lake' water smells strongly of chlorine!

I was thinking that we would replace the filters annually, being part-timers. This is the time of year to empty the plumbing lines and tanks. I never have used any kind of RV antifreeze. So, I could change the filters after blowing out the lines when the filter canisters should be half empty. Once with our Bigfoot I had forgotten to reduce air pressure on my shop compressor prior to blowing out the lines. Was somehow lucky that time, but it's usually set down at 50 PSI or less. I've drained the HW heater 3 times now, since our June Oliver purchase, and every time there is sooooo much scale (just did it again yesterday). I use a cleaning wand and more and more scale keeps coming out. I could have literally filled a gallon jug with scale so far! I have a new anode to install this time. I'm also going to work the OTT vinegar procedure to remove scale from the cold-water lines soon. Yes, it would be easier to have an external unit, no installation required, though if I can get it nicely installed, it would be so much easier at every campsite or fill-up of the fresh holding tank.

Thanks Steve, I thought backflow or pressure regulator. Yes, the drawing shows it on the hose bib vs. the rear of the trailer. Wonder why do they need the second brass connector on each line? Are there both backflow and pressure regulator in-line?

Thanks Rich! Your diagram shows me the third line is for the outdoor shower. This is very helpful. Anybody know why there are so many fittings on the incoming water lines? Looks like an inline pressure regulator but would like confirmation, for those who can identify the inline parts. Thanks

Planning a dual-filter water filtration system to be installed in the rear basement of the Oliver, where the incoming water lines are located. My goal is to use one of the City or Fresh water hose inlets to supply the filtration system and block off the other hose bib. Then post filtration, install a 3-way water valve within reach, to choose the City line (hose pressurized) or the line to fill the Fresh Tank. Decided on the Clearsource Premier™ product vs. their 3-filter Ultra system which seems to be overkill given water will sit in fresh tank anyway. Then I thought, why buy their rather expensive $400 system vs. just purchasing the parts? What a deal! I purchased two filter housings, a filter wrench and a filter kit (on a discount by adding an annual subscription) all for $140 delivered. Clearsource sells the complete filter housings at only $30 ea. I will get other parts from Lowes or Depot, since this purchase did not include the plumbing, nor a proper installation bracket. I'll present more as I build it. Though right now, I have a question, for those in the know! Please check out the second picture. Why so many connectors on the internal plumbing? I see a connector AND another connector, perhaps with a built-in pressure restrictor, or backflow preventor? Also wondering why I see a third Pex line without any connectors? Please advise, before I tear all of this apart! It's just like Oliver to install devices that may need maintenance, so deep and out of reach!

Wondering why there appear to be 3 Coaxial cable TV lines, running from the basement up to the rear attic? (see pic) We do have the Winegard satellite dish, but not sure why that cable would travel to the basement and back. I would think that cable would run between the shells up top, or behind the upper cabinets, to get from the front installed dish to the rear attic. I do understand there is a coax port installed rear streetside, so that accounts for one cable. Why three cables?

See this thread, all info required is here:

Sure Ken, I agree now seeing your explanation. The pics I observed above, appeared to be only the wrap and the mating surfaces looked solid. You supplied a sound reason for the cracking. Given rust within created expansion to cause the cracks, to the point of not allowing the 3/4" socket to fit, yep you got a problem. Given the interior threads would be as rusty, they could fail with time.

How do you guys have room for 2 big dogs in an Oliver?! 🤣

Measured the lights in our Oliver today and they are 3 1/8" diameter (the older version, not touch-lights). These 4" adapters should be 4" ID so lots of room, was hoping they would fit closer. There are 12 interior lights (not counting 3 bathroom lights).

Cool thread, we all love "men's best friend!" We haven't traveled much yet in our Oliver. So, the first two pics are when we had the Bigfoot Class-C, a fall trip to Williams and Sycamore Canyon, Arizona (2nd largest canyon in AZ). Meet our 9-year-old English Springer Spaniel named Charley! Chris caught me napping, something I literally never do! So, it was picture-worthy. In the spot where I removed the uncomfortable loveseat for other seating and more room. The third pic is when we first purchased our Oliver in June. Charley made himself right at home while we were removing the 'stink' of past owners.

Nice simple mod, good idea and crafty install. I cannot stand light hitting my eyes at the wrong angle too. We don't have the touch lights either, but if the size is right, that doesn't matter. Painting is not such a good idea. Get ABS if you want black and PVC for white. Adding this to my list!