jd1923

Given this is our main mount, nicely sitting in our truck bed, I was thinking of a moveable stand for the occasions where the truck cannot be parked clear of trees! Meanwhile, my son broke the base to a fan he uses often in his apartment. After removing the broken base, I thought, "a patio umbrella stand would work nicely." So why not use an umbrella stand for the Starlink Mini dish? The kind you fill with water would be convenient, since when empty it weighs less than a pound (we always carry 35 gallons extra water on the TV). It works great and can be placed anywhere! I purchased this model from Lowes, since it is rectangular (most are round) and it has a nice handle. https://www.lowes.com/pd/Patio-Premier-Patio-Premier-Square-Blow-Mold-Umbrella-Base-Black/1002629278 You can configure all the fancy poles and mounts you want and I'm done with $50 total in parts ($10 for PVC parts) which will work anywhere without cables. 😎

My goal for a Starlink installation is something neat and simple! What I don't want and will not have! 1) A cord-powered ONLY solution, not in the day of LI batteries! 2) Suction cups on the side of our hull or windows (Chris keeps our windows clean regularly and suction cups leave stains on glass and fiberglass)! 3) Any kind of tripod or camera stand! 4) Something long like a flagpole (anything needing a ladder)! Starlink satillites are 100 +/- miles away and a 10-20' pole doesn't get you any closer! 5) OMG, please NOT sitting on a campground picnic table (they put these in the shade on purpose)! 🤣 On another thread, I showed my truck mounted solution, and in less than 24 hours, one or more Forum Members poo-pooed my installation claiming the dish must always be moved. I truly like this mount (pics 1-2). Last time out it worked every night on the road on a short trip. I truly believe it will work 2 of 3 nights on the road regularly (1 of 3 nights where the TV is in the trees regardless of where parked in the campsite). I have power and Ethernet wired to this location, so that the Starlink can be a WAN input on our Pepwave router. However, the battery solution works anywhere.

Agreed, an example to the contrary is Blue Compass RV. They are a chain buying independents around the country. We had a local company “Affinity RV” with 4 locations in our county (not that they were great, service always booked months out). I bought an occasional part from them. Two years ago they sold to Blue Compass (hardly family-oriented)!

OTT should have never considered working with dealers. It was unique that Olivers were sold and serviced at what some here call the "Mothership!" A sales manager at our local Blue Compass dealer said, "Nice Trailer, want to trade it in?" as I was draining tanks at their free dump station, right down the street. I then asked him about the dealership idea. He replied, "There's no money in selling Olivers! I can sell 10 Winnebagos, and 20 Thors, ... in a month where we might sell one Oliver." Yep, Hohenwald TN is far-far-away and in our 2 1/2 years we've done fine getting things done locally, no travel necessary. Even our Oliver was listed on Prescott Craigslist! Upon sale, prior owner delivered it, backed it right into our home RV parking spot! 😎

The City Water plumbing in our Oliver consistently has lower pressure/volume than using the water pump and Fresh Tank (though we do have an upgraded variable-speed water pump). In a way it's neat that when we do not need much water, City Water gives us just that (water savings) and when we want better pressure we turn the water pump on at the same time. This works to supply extra water pressure and volume! I have it on my long list to remove the water restrictors in both lines and remove and clean and/or replace the backflow preventers (check-valves). Not sure how your 2019 is plumbed, but you can start by looking here to see what you have and decide what to do. Look closely to see we have BOTH check-valves AND water restrictors on BOTH City and Fresh water lines.

Agreed, E2 means no ground connection. Given you are certain shore power has proper ground (be sure) then it would be within the PI EMS. Make sure ALL 6 connections (3 in, 3 out) are clean and tight. The 4 you see quickly in the picture are the hot and neutral connections. Then look closely at the green wires which are bolted to the case of the EMS (inside top of the case in picture). I can see that one of these could get loose easily.

Yeah thank @Steph and Dud B, I missed that he had the "wash station cold faucet" turned on. I guess that means the outdoor shower? I would try it again with the kitchen sink faucet on, handle centered both hot and cold, just to be sure. If all fails, I suggest blowing compressed air though it! 😎

@Dexter Adams Do you have a faucet open? I use air vs. antifreeze, but know that at least one faucet needs to be open, otherwise the plumbing is pressurized! Don’t need faucet open for the Fresh Water line since tank overflow is always open.

This one a 2023 on RVTrader with all Truma equipment! Good time a year to visit New Orleans! 🤣 https://www.rvtrader.com/listing/2023-Oliver-LEGACY+ELITE+STANDARD-5037415149#sid=456733

You’ll likely need to look nationwide given the rarity of the Elite I.

I know, you anal retentive guys with the fancy poop accessories! 🤣

Originally from the album American Beauty and my childhood favorite Workingman's Dead are two great albums, the best of the best! Very good cover thank you, great voices! 😂

To dump tanks at night? And if you have the hose permanently connected, there's no need to see connections down there! I only go in there every few days and with eyes closed can pull out the business end of the dump hose! 🤣 It would be odd to have an electric valve down there when you have to manually open the black and gray valves anyway, the ones built into the Oliver. Some of us have changed the OEM waste valves with electric valves which seems more practical. Looks like Ron's hose can fit inside attached and maybe yours was installed too far out? This is all too fancy for me and likely most of us. I want to be back there with that bumper open for 10 minutes max! 😎

I see it now looking closer, just one hole. That's better and you should be able to find the wires in the interior easily. Cool that @Steve Morris recognized the Waste Master connection. Looks like a great setup but perhaps too big to keep inside the Oliver bumper. It would not be easy, but a standard fitting could be put back in place. Check out this. It's the same brand/model light as OTT installed for Porch lights and mount it rear-center at the same height as the porch lights. It will look OEM: https://itcshopnow.com/products/assurance-exterior-flood-light?variant=50392962007319%2F I'm thinking to add the new rear light on the switched circuit for the Side Porch Lights. Three lights on that switch. @Snackchaser wrote up a post where he located the wiring, which will be a big help in where to start looking, given our older hulls may be different. When I get to installing our rear light, I'll add a mod post. The rear light is a good mod.

I was curious and just took a look at our Oliver (pic1). No wires, no buckles, and I'm happy to see it's cleaner inside than out! 🤣 (I'm having a guy clean and polish the outside soon!) Prior owner must have had some poop macerator pump wired in there, yuck! And who knows why they needed two cables and drilled two holes. Everybody should think of any alternative so not to drill into these hulls! First thing i would do is to remove both wiring harnesses, then plug up the holes with plastic plugs or butyl. Go inside your lower rear opening, I call it the Oliver trunk! Take a look where the waste drain pump comes in and the wiring harness will be right there (just to the left of the pipe shown in pic2). I would also get rid of the waste line extension, buckled onto your waste drain, to make room. We keep our RhinoFLEX hose always connected there, so not to crane my neck and sprain my wrist every time we're at the dump station. It's so easy just to pull the length of hose out. We keep a clear elbow fitting on the other end, so everything is ready, always connected.

I don't remember any wires in there. I can take a look today. I also do not believe we have that buckle on the waste pipe. Does yours disconnect there? Our hulls are close to the same vintage. The rear LP quick connect in the bumper was an OTT OEM option. I never have used ours, preferring the front connect vs. lowering the bumper. Wish OTT mounted a rear port next to the bumper (near the boondocking water inlet) vs. inside with the dirty waste dump hose. It's not a sanitary area inside there!

Our Oliver is my first experience with the dual LP regulator setup. Previous RVs had single built-in tanks. Is this necessary merely due to age? Our hull now approaching 10-years-old with OEM regulator. I haven't used the auto change-over feature, just turn the valve left or right. Everything is working as designed. This may be a good replacement, or is there a preferred brand? https://www.amazon.com/RecPro-Regulator-Changeover-Connector-Mounting/dp/B0DK626918/

Good to know of your experience, John. I thought that LiFePO4 batteries could freeze given 60% +/- SOC and fully disconnected from load and charge. This is as easy as it gets for winter storage! Good to know it has worked for you. Your Oklahoma storage location certainly gets a number of freezing days and nights over the long 8 months you are off the mainland. If we ever see some real cold coming, I'll do the same. Run SOC down to 60% and then pull the ground cable on our battery bank. So simple! Way better than the manufacturers that state charging power can be left on all year just as long as SOC is low once a year. I don't see that advice. Thanks John, your Battleborn method is the best plan yet and so easy to implement! Battleborn was the best choice when you upgraded years ago. No power required during storage, no battery removal, no fuss, no worries! 😎

Clicking when the breaker was off too? Then it could be the Dometic control box vs. the thermostat, given the thermostat is operating the furnace and the clicking is coming from above where the control box is located. The only device in the A/C unit running on 12VDC. @Ronbrink and @ChristianD, in the thread re updating the AC unit with a Tosot, had a discussion re the Dometic control box. Here's a link of what might be needed, if reset doesn't work. Nice kit for $120, contains both new thermostat and control box. https://thervsurplus.com/products/dometic™-oem-3316230-700-9600024570-single-zone-ct-thermostat-w-control-board-cool-furnace-white?_pos=1&_sid=827d20bfd&_ss=r Many of us are replacing the NOISY Dometic A/C and if you do that, all you need is one of these to run the thermostat. No clicking sound if the furnace has it's own thermostat! 🤣 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00H6ARNXO?ref=fed_asin_title

Barb, do you have the Dometic thermostat set on furnace only, or on the heat pump setting. I don't think we have a heat pump, but there is the setting on the thermostat. When I accidently switch to that setting, no clicking, but the fan starts running above. There shouldn't be any signal sent to the A/C when in furnace mode. If not, could be your thermostat is failing. I've got a possible work-around. Turn the 120VAC breaker off for the A/C. This may keep it from clicking, if it needs the 120VAC to make that noise.

As they say, "Great minds think alike!" 🤣 Keep in mind the incoming air would have to be ducted another inch too. Perhaps the multiple foam layers they supply would work for this. I haven't looked at how that works. Just took measurements. The Oliver ceiling, center of the 14x14" opening, is 77 1/2" tall (1/4" taller in front and 1/4" shorter behind). The Turbro air handler is only 2 3/4" (1/2" less than the Dometic p2). After adding an inch, there would still be 74" clearance at the front, no problemo! 😎

I promise no more cracks about the weather! 🤣 (Sorry about that.) We boondock more than we plug into shore power. We have 600 Ah Epoch LiFePO4 and 3KVA Victron inverter/charger that we run 24x7 and we use a LOT of 120VAC; run TV and A/V system morning and night, electric kettle and pressure cooker, Emeril air fryer, the fridge, HWH and the A/C on occasion. We also run the fridge on DC while towing and either the HWH or A/C the last 90 min on the road so that we arrive with either hot water or a cool cabin, whatever is more important at the time. Of course we could heat water on LP when we get there, but I'm about using the batteries we have! We can charge in 3 ways, 320W roof solar, 400W suitcase solar and Victron Orion 50A DC-to-DC charger (reason why we can run extra AC appliances while towing). If I'm running the A/C on the road, on a hot afternoon, SOC is likely already down to 75% when we arrive. The next morning after cooking dinner, watching TV... We're usually down to 62%. If it's another sunny day in the SW we will get back to high 70s and we applaud if SOC hits 80% using the solar suitcase. If it's a cloudy day, SOC will stay in the 60s and the next morning, we'll be in the low 50s. Another cloudy day then we're in the 40s SOC. If we're under 50% SOC we change things, like morning coffee water heated by LP vs. AC and I'll power down the inverter while sleeping. We are between 50 to 75% SOC most of the time. I'll run SOC much lower, if I know we are breaking camp and towing. The DC-to-DC charger will bring us 40Ah while towing. Three hours on the road will charge +20% SOC and if it's sunny +30%. I've run our batteries under 20% SOC now 3 times! Always from being DUMB! Like leaving the fridge on DC overnight, or the HWH (big amps) which is something most people would not even consider running on batteries. When I get the <20% alarm, I'll power down the inverter and use little to no power! 🤣 BTW, 75% SOC is the HIGHEST number you should maintain during storage! Keeping LiFePO4 batteries at 100% reduced battery life (see below). Which battery manufacturer really does not matter, it's about the LiFePO4 battery chemistry. I knew I was right about not leaving chargers on 24x7 from my 45 years of experience with lead acid in automobiles and AGMs in my motorcycles, but I was not sure about LiFePO4, so I looked it up. @Against The Wind, I found similar information on 3 websites and AI replied with 40-60% being the best range of SOC while in storage. Check out this from EG4 Electronics: At EG4, we recommend keeping the battery at 50% to 60% SOC. This range minimizes the stress on the battery cells and prevents chemical reactions that could degrade the battery over time. Avoid High SOC: Storing your battery at or near 100% SOC for extended periods can lead to reduced cycle life. https://eg4electronics.com/maximizing-battery-lifespan-best-state-of-charge-soc-practices/ Keeping at 50-60% SOC would be a chore, but SOC anywhere between 40% and 80% is better than 100%. Also, I strongly suggest we all USE the expensive batteries we've purchased! Nothing wrong with being below 50% when needed. Yes, one less thing to worry about! I used to worry. Chris still worries when we're in the 60s and she checks the apps too. I love what and how much can be run on LiFePO4 batteries today. Now that we're installing a highly efficient Turbro Inverter A/C, we plan to run A/C on battery a few hours in the heat of the day when needed. I'm looking at adding another 460 Ah in the doghouse, just behind the LP tanks, if I can move them forward enough! A total of 1060Ah. Now we're talking! 😎

Our last home in Chicagoland was a dilapidated 1943 farm house, but we had a 40x60' pole barn on 3.2 acres (50 miles NW of downtown). I poured concrete on half of it, ran power, was able to work on cars in the winter with a bullet heater, was in heaven! We have 3/4 acre here within Prescott city limits. Bought our home with a GREAT deep 3-car garage, an outbuilding just smaller than a 2-car garage and I added a 10x20' TuffShed. Carports are not allowed by the city anymore and our Oliver must be outdoors. I do have an idea to mount some metal panels top of the TuffShed to provide more shade, but worried the city would frown on this idea!

I have a faint memory of how cloudy it gets in some areas of the USA. I remember a Chicago Tribune headline from about 1980, stating "45 Days of Gray!" Yes, 45 days with NO SUN in that part of the country over the winter months.

This makes me feel better! 😂