jd1923

Keep in mind your TV alternator is chassis ground. Run extra #4 cables, both B+ and B- cables from your alternator to your battery where you have your charger cables connected. Have you ever checked charging amperage at idle with a clamp-on amp meter? Would the reading be the same on +tive and -tive sides? Is reading the same before and after the DC-DC charger (should be less after, the Orion XS 50A is advertised at 93% efficiency). Great thread, thanks!

Thanks Sherry, you found a great link to all the NFS “Motor Vehicle Use Maps.” I’ve had the Prescott and Kaibab NF maps for awhile, but will now download the rest and create a folder for them. What I wanted, but may not be available, is the pretty Arizona map above, downloadable via Avenza maps. The Avenza app is great because it has all the Federal maps for free and it puts your GPS location as a blue dot on the map while traveling. You can also save and name visited locations. I have 100s of maps downloaded on my phone which I save prior to traveling, to view along our route.

I could not find this "Visit Arizona" map on Avenza Maps store. If somebody does, please reply with the specific map name. Thanks 😂

When you stay in the National Forests, there are "Motor Vehicle Use Maps" that show a much greater level of detail. They are simple black & white maps, but note the legend. Where you see dots on the side of the road, it stands for dispersed camping. This is a nice feature. There are also more detail BLM maps by Region Office. They show BLM areas but sometimes there are miles of road where you cannot physically pull off the road due to elevation, drainage ditches etc. Many use Google Earth to look further. Below is the Prescott National Forest page. There is a map store where you can order printed maps online for any NF. Then scroll down to the header "Motor Vehicle Use Maps." Download one and check the legend and the roads for dispersed camping. I have the Prescott NF map in print form and it is great showing every old mining road and jeep trail in the forest! Before we were camping, I've used this map for 20 years now for our dirt-riding adventures: https://www.fs.usda.gov/main/prescott/maps-pubs Picture shows this map on the Avenza Maps app which makes it so much more useful while traveling!

Our older hull has OEM built-in pressure regulators and backflow preventers on both City and Fresh Tank lines (see pic), not sure if they still do that on your new hull. They do not show the pressure regulators on the plumbing schematics, just the backflow devices. Because our City Water line is overly restricted, we never use it since the pressure is too low. I do need to get back there, clean the backflows and remove the restrictors to use a true post-mounted pressure regulator instead. We fill the fresh tank regularly and run the water pump for our water. You could try this to see if the drip stops. However, many have pointed at this reason. I doubt it! Your relief vale is rated at 100 PSI which I can see in the picture. It is made for major steam build-up in the system. I doubt campground water pressure is >100 PSI. You likely need a new valve.

That’s just over 1.5A per hour which sounds good with your inverter on. Likely 1AH for inverter only. Happy New Year!!!

Second New Years for us with the Oliver Family! The BEST 2025 to all!

Thanks Geoff, yes I'm certainly going to use the frame at the rear, so will only need 2 ft of ground cable there. I will add additional frame grounds to both truck batteries and perhaps to the alternator frame. This will add another 2 ft here and there. I went with TEMCo direct on Amazon, upped my number to 65 FT: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00LIB6F86?ref=fed_asin_title&th=1 Not sure on the resistance or voltage drop of a 10x4" steel double C-beam truck frame, but one thing is certain, it will not overheat when amped up! It is important to grind the paint off the frame at every ground connection. I love mechanic work, almost more than camping trips! Currently rebuilding the PS pump (was leaking) on my 1992 Lexus SC400 and installing new Tien struts on all 4s I got myself for Christmas! I went with the Orion XS 50A for its efficiency, smaller unit, less the 3LB heat sink, etc. This is quoted from the Victron datasheet: "The charge current is adjustable with a minimum stepsize of 0.1 A. via VictronConnect." I went with 4 AWG, not wanting to spend more and the Victron Orion XS 50 terminal takes 4 AWG max (reason)? If there is an issue at 50A, I will merely set it down to 30A or somewhere between. https://www.victronenergy.com/upload/documents/Datasheet-Orion-XS-12-12-50A-DC-DC-battery-charger-EN.pdf Our Oliver is now 90% Victron (less the legacy Blue Sky SC). Victron Multiplus II inverter/charger, SmartSolar MPPT 30A for the Renogy 400W Suitcase, now the Orion XS 50A, SmartShunt, SmartDongle, VE.Bus and proud to say I don't need a screen mounted to the interior of the Oliver. Love the VictronConnect App! I should be able to read DC-DC charge voltage while towing. I will post a new thread on my install, though it will likely be a couple months out when I get to it!

Planning on adding the Victron Orion 50A DC-DC charger in the new year. The Victron Amazon store just lowered price on these: Amazon.com: Victron Energy Orion XS Smart DC to DC Battery Charger 12/12 50A (700W) - IP65 Dust & Waterproof - Fully Configurable - Remote Management Possible - Advanced Battery Protection : Electronics I will go with TEMCo 4 AWG cable. I measured distance from battery to rear bumper at 21 ft (long bed TV), then from hitch to rear dinette to my main busses another 15 ft, adding 10% for 40 ft total one-way. Wondering what Geooff, or @MAX Burner, @Ronbrinkand others did with the ground wire at the TV? It doesn't seem necessary to run the B- cable all the way up to the batteries. Could it not be grounded at the rear frame of the TV? The truck batteries are also grounded to the frame. This saves 18 ft of cable, so I'm planning on 60 ft total. Wire got more expensive in the last year! BTW, I did upgrade to a Nations 180A HD alternator last summer which is about 50A higher than the OEM alternator.

Certainly, true when OFF. Those of us who have upgraded to the Victron Multiplus II are in the practice of leaving the inverter ON 24x7. It can be switched from OFF, to ON, to Inverter only, or Charger Only modes via the VictronConnect app. It has to be in one of 3 defined ON positions to allow shore-power pass-through power. We do not store our Oliver so for us this means 365 days a year as well. The Victron MP2 draws 13W (1A) continuously unless switched off or in other power saving mode. We have the same ~0.5A parasitic draw and I leave the Outside Courtesy lights on 24/7 so that underneath the Oliver does not become nesting ground! So, we are burning about -1.75A regularly and right now on a sunny afternoon we are reading +7.2A from solar. Ours has been parked and unplugged for 2 months, batteries SOC at 80% +/-. I understand those of you who store your Olivers indoors over the winter have different concerns. Ours must sit outside in the sun and covers are just a PITA and damage the finish equally when blowing in the strong western winds!

The larger of the blade valves under the front dinette seat is for the black tank (see pic). The smaller is to cut off drain water from going out on the shower floor while traveling and it's the gray tank valve that is under the streetside bed. First, I would fill the blank tank with water to be certain of leak. If it's just a little black water after travel, it is likely black drain water left in the main line when dumping with the trailer level or forward leaning (without raising the front of trailer higher which is a good practice). Quite a bit of black waste can sit in this long plumbing. Question, are you getting a quart of black or gallons? I would work the drain many times prior to the pain of replacing! After filling, open and close the blade repeatedly. This may dislodge something lodged on the blade. You could use a chemical drain cleaner letting it soak for a while and then again open and close. I forget, but there also may be a way to remove the valve blade for cleaning without replacing the entire valve. Best wishes.

Try bringing charge rate down to 20A and if "mooch docking" voltage is less than 115V I would not plug into that source at all. Run your fridge and OEM furnace on LP!

@grweber1 Gary and I have a bit of history. His 2KW Inverter is the one removed from our hull when I upgraded to our Victron 3W MP2 inverter/charger. This 2KW Xantrex model is inverter only, no integrated charger. To upgrade to LiFePO4 he had to upgrade to the newer PD model or add the suggested pendant. This is added to the PD charger, independent of the optional inverter as wired. This was a very good reasonable upgrade for Gary, who does not have solar and just wanted an inverter for coffee makers, occasional MW use, etc. Since I upgraded to an integrated inverter/charger I disconnected the OEM PD charger vs. upgrading it for LiFePO4 (reconnect the black/hot wire to the 120V breaker panel and it can be used as backup if ever needed).

Check your Epoch Manual (see pic). Your app is showing 14.4V to the batteries fully charged. I believe the high voltage settings is recommended at 14.2V. If voltage cannot be fined tuned on the PD charger, it will be fine but do not leave your Oliver plugged into shore power continuously (always a good recommendation). Watch that Blue Sky video when he runs through the programming several times until you get used to the keystrokes. It took me 3-4 times to enter all the strokes correctly. If I had struck out again, I would have asked my son to do it. He is of the video-game generation, and he would have nailed it first or second try. Get the right 13.6V, 14.2V and other settings correct for the Blue Sky and this will be your better Epoch LiFePO4 charging curve. I have solar charging on always and shore power connected only when needed.

We went a similar Class-A, Class-C to Oliver route. Now I'm comfortable driving to any campsite in the National Forest! TP NP, as great as the Oliver is, it will need some mods!

@ScubaRx gave you the basic math. So you currently have 50% of 368 for 184AH usable. The inexpensive LiTime 230 at 90% is 207AH. This would be a 12% increase in useful capacity. There should be room for two of these in the slide-out tray for future upgrade. Glad to help Gary. There are several members here who have installed LiTime batteries who could chime in on their performance. I went Epoch to achieve 2x 300AH for 600AH in the tray.

Hey Gary, money spent on 4 AGM batteries today, you really should just buy one LiTime 260AH for about $470. You can save money and over 100 LBS and remove all those short battery-to-battery cables for the same usable AHs! This is a minor mod compared to work you did in adding your Xantrex inverter. Read through this post. At the bottom @Hokieman mentions a $20 pendant to upgrade your OEM charger for LiFePO4 charging.

I'm with Geoff on most of these points. The Blue Seas switch is the best available but does not come close to running 4/0 cables from the batteries straight to the inverter. Yes, you can connect it by copper bar but resistance internal to the switch is the issue, two more lugs, bolts, etc. By the time I unlock the battery bay and the padlock securing the battery tray, it only takes a wrench on one bolt at the battery ground to disconnect power when servicing. We do not store our Oliver. As Geoff wrote, "I’m in and out of the trailer enough..." Not a good idea adding another switch under the streetside bed either. I spent hours rerouting the rear bus, solar and DC breakers to the area under the rear dinette seat. I removed over 10' of #6 wire and a good 20' of #10 to the 3 stabilizer jack fuses, and much other wiring. It's crazy how OTT added length to the wiring just to put this stuff under the bed. Some wiring removed had two inline crimped butt-connectors. All the extra length and connectors adds to resistance/voltage drop. All cable runs are now shorter, just 5 ft or less. I upgraded the positive bus with one that is made of 5/16" solid copper bar (not hollow brass like the OEM bus). I replaced the neutral/ground bus with a longer heavy-duty bus and doubled the ground AWG. In doing this I also removed four #6 cables that were run directly to the +/- battery terminals. I have mod posts of all this work and less connections are better! On the last point made above. I would not be concerned if the CO monitor was not powered when truly in storage, with LP tanks off, nobody inside anyway. Turning the DC breaker off is a good idea to eliminate parasitic draw. It seems it's all that is needed. Thanks Geoff.

Can’t be much. Haven’t tested but likely about 0.02A. Anybody test it power on then off?

Put a gallon or two of water in the black tank, laundry soap or something, and it will last longer than several gray tank fills!

Excellent work @rich.dev! Getting bored at Quartzsite?!

Excellent work on your part and the price is amazing considering prices today! Thank you.

We have Garmin in Kenwood receivers in two of our vehicles. I’ve been getting update warnings and have to figure out how to do so. Hope I don’t have to pay a license fee.

Not in our closet! Barely enough room for my few hanging items, if you know what I mean. If we had rain or bugs, less wind… I may consider one. Heck, we don’t even use our awning! 🤣

Thought about one. Found really good price Amazon used and ask myself, do I want to carry one? Which led to the answer no. And that was before reading this. @DavePhelps love the windsock pic. Reminds me of a past trip to Moab!